Author Topic: Rear Wheel replacement on a V7 Classic. (Read 13526 times)

Squeak · « **on:** November 02, 2011, 08:38:10 AM »

the wife got a nail in her V7 Classic, Took a lot of mucking about to remove the rear wheel, Ill get it fixed tomorrow.
However I know replacement is going to be a nightmare.
Any tips or tricks to get it back on with minimum drama?

fotoguzzi · « **Reply #1 on:** November 02, 2011, 09:41:14 AM »

read the owners manual? it can't be that difficult..

kitze2 · « **Reply #2 on:** November 02, 2011, 09:55:52 AM »

On my V7 to get extra clearance I pull the rotor carrier, with rotor still attached. With it gone getting the rim on/off is lots easier. Once the rim is back in place it's no biggie to bolt back up. I always use some purple loctite on the bolts.
Some guys pull the drive for access. That's a total PITA unless you want to inspect the splines. Which isn't a bad idea once in a while.

oldmanjob · « **Reply #3 on:** November 02, 2011, 10:35:31 AM »

I take mine to the dealer and let him figure it out :o ;D :D ;-T

The old(mechanically un-inclined :o) Bill ;D

Wildguzzi.com · « **Reply #3 on:** November 02, 2011, 10:35:31 AM »

sign216 · « **Reply #4 on:** November 02, 2011, 11:45:41 AM »

Squeak, there's no magic to getting it done, just need three hands and some cursing.

Penderic's idea of masking tape to protect surfaces is good.

Kitze2's practice of removing the brake rotor is what I do too. The extra room helps.

Since you're already removed the wheel you know what's involved. I wrote a photo essay on lubing the drive splines that might be useful; http://www.flickr.com/photos/sign216/sets/72157625569987011/with/5323995391/

Joe

kitze2 · « **Reply #5 on:** November 02, 2011, 01:03:27 PM »

Quote from: sign216 on November 02, 2011, 11:45:41 AM

... I wrote a photo essay on lubing the drive splines that might be useful; http://www.flickr.com/photos/sign216/sets/72157625569987011/with/5323995391/

Joe

By the way...Great job on that photo essay. That little preload spring could disappear if you're not forewarned.
Thanks

sign216 · « **Reply #6 on:** November 02, 2011, 02:47:04 PM »

Quote from: kitze2 on November 02, 2011, 01:03:27 PM

Quote from: sign216 on November 02, 2011, 11:45:41 AM
... I wrote a photo essay on lubing the drive splines that might be useful; http://www.flickr.com/photos/sign216/sets/72157625569987011/with/5323995391/

Joe
By the way...Great job on that photo essay. That little preload spring could disappear if you're not forewarned.
Thanks

I forgot to mention that spring, didn't I? I should have added a photo about that because it'll fall off and you might not even know it's supposed to be there.

You, or anyone, can add comments to my pictures. Just go to the right photo and say something about the spring, or anything else I've missed.

Pfaff! · « **Reply #7 on:** November 02, 2011, 03:54:12 PM »

Quote from: Squeak on November 02, 2011, 08:38:10 AM

the wife got a nail in her V7 Classic, Took a lot of mucking about to remove the rear wheel, Ill get it fixed tomorrow.
However I know replacement is going to be a nightmare.
Any tips or tricks to get it back on with minimum drama?

For 99% of the issues on the V7C's, I'd recommend you to do a search on the equal Brevas. We've been through the entire collection of issues 6 years before the V7Cs hit the market... ;D

And I'm with Joe on this, do demount the rear gear box as a unit with the wheel. Makes the whole thing a walk in the park and is good for the splines.

kitze2 · « **Reply #8 on:** November 02, 2011, 04:26:27 PM »

Quote from: Muschi on November 02, 2011, 04:15:13 PM

Quote from: Muschi on November 02, 2011, 10:07:21 AM
isn't there a huge "slot" in the brake disc as with the big blocks ?
that simply has to be parallel to the ground that the wheel can
be pulled backwards with ease ?

:)

come on girls, do I talk in chinese ? :)

Isn't it a matter of getting the axle out, and the spacer, pulling the wheel
to the left and backwards, as in 2 minutes for all ?
no need to get either the brake disc and carrier off nor the bevelunit
if I remember correctly.
My Smallblock days are over, but I remember it to be quick and ~~dirty~~ easy ?

:BEER:

I thought you spoke German? ;)
No slot on mine.
I've tried several times...There is no getting the wheel w/tire off without removing something.
There just ain't enough clearance.
If someone can show us how to " axle out, and the spacer, pulling the wheel
to the left and backwards, as in 2 minutes for all"
I will buy them mucho beer.
I can't speak to any SB models other than the new V7 series.

Squeak · « **Reply #9 on:** November 03, 2011, 07:06:21 AM »

??? OMFG Who is the Sadistic bastard that designed the back wheel of the V7 classic.
Near 1.5hours to put on a rear wheel, FFS that was maddening >:( >:( ;D ;D ;D

Next time wifey runs over a nail she can fixz it herself ::(

twhitaker · « **Reply #10 on:** November 03, 2011, 07:15:31 AM »

Since it's such a hassle to change the tire you might want to consider using one of the goops that go inside the tire. Ride On comes to mind. I've heard of folks remarking about how many punctures their tires have when time comes to replace them.

Chuck in Indiana · « **Reply #11 on:** November 03, 2011, 07:31:07 AM »

It's really strange that they changed it from the early design. On the early small blocks, there's no need to even pull the brake caliper. Just pull the bolt, take out the spacer, and the wheel comes right off.
Looks like the modern one is a giant step backwards to me.. Tonti must be doing the ::)
;D

roofus · « **Reply #12 on:** November 03, 2011, 12:07:12 PM »

Quote from: Penderic on November 03, 2011, 12:00:23 PM

It is one of those situations that look simple and everything clears.

It looks like there are 2 or 3 ways of doing it easily even if one gets tricky.

Bait!

Once you start, and get a ways into it, you'll find a nub on the drive hub just 1/16" too long and will jam the mis-angled wheel.

It's like an invisible Rubik's Cube. I am going to record the wheel removal procedure and play it backwards next time!

Or take a grinder and take 1/16" off of one edge of one tip of one hub nub. and color the spot with yellow paint.

I hope he is wearing his safety boots!

Moto Fugazzi · « **Reply #13 on:** November 03, 2011, 01:21:21 PM »

I had my final drive off for some maintenance when I had to install my rear wheel. It was fairly easy since I could slide the tire in from the right side with the drive off, rather than try to raise the rear end to try to clear the fender. The final drive is only 4 nuts, and comes off fairly easy. Grease everything up at that point as well.
This really made me miss my Griso with the single sided swingarm.
Ken

Tom · « **Reply #14 on:** November 03, 2011, 02:13:19 PM »

Quote from: Muschi on November 02, 2011, 04:15:13 PM

Quote from: Muschi on November 02, 2011, 10:07:21 AM
isn't there a huge "slot" in the brake disc as with the big blocks ?
that simply has to be parallel to the ground that the wheel can
be pulled backwards with ease ?

:)

come on girls, do I talk in chinese ? :)

Isn't it a matter of getting the axle out, and the spacer, pulling the wheel
to the left and backwards, as in 2 minutes for all ?
no need to get either the brake disc and carrier off nor the bevelunit
if I remember correctly.
My Smallblock days are over, but I remember it to be quick and ~~dirty~~ easy ?

:BEER:

Looks English to me. Nee how mah Kwai lo? ;D (Essentially....How's it going dude?)

Pfaff! · « **Reply #15 on:** November 03, 2011, 04:05:11 PM »

Quote from: Muschi on November 02, 2011, 04:15:13 PM

My Smallblock days are over, but I remember it to be quick and ~~dirty~~ easy ?

:BEER:

They certainly are. Rear wheel hub & brake changed design a decade ago. At least. ;)
Pulling the wheel&bevel box as a unit makes it a 10 minutes job. And is clean as Kleenex. Provided you wash the poor bike once in a while. ;D

NSX · « **Reply #16 on:** December 22, 2013, 12:46:03 PM »

This is an old thread, but I'm going to see if I can get a response before starting a new topic. Are there instructions somewhere (or maybe a video) showing how:

"Pulling the wheel&bevel box as a unit makes it a 10 minutes job. And is clean as Kleenex."?

I'm not questioning if it can be done, I just want to know how to do it.

Thanks,
Robert

Perazzimx14 · « **Reply #17 on:** December 22, 2013, 12:59:56 PM »

No need to remove the rear drive but it is a good opportunity to do so and check and grease the drive line splines.

1. Deflate the tire before trying to reinstall
2. If the rubber cush drive blocks keep falling out, a dab of silicone caulk and 24 hours is worth the wait.
3. If you have a front wheel chock it make things a lot easier. The chock holds the bike upright then you and use a scissor jack to raise or lower the rear of the bike to get things lined up. Just roll the tire into the swing arm and move the bike. That way the floor hold the tire and the jack holds the bike, leaving your hands free to slide in the axle.

faffi · « **Reply #18 on:** December 22, 2013, 01:07:15 PM »

Lubing splines is wise. But would this method work also for the Guzzi?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dcKTQ_MDIU4

NSX · « **Reply #19 on:** December 22, 2013, 02:28:13 PM »

Neither of those responses had anything to do with my question, but thanks.

Pfaff! said "Pulling the wheel&bevel box as a unit makes it a 10 minutes job. And is clean as Kleenex."
I'm hoping he will respond.

sign216 · « **Reply #20 on:** December 22, 2013, 04:11:02 PM »

I wrote a tutorial on lubing the splines. It might might help. It's here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/sign216/sets/72157625569987011/

Removing the rear wheel is part of the process.

Joe

Kev m · « **Reply #21 on:** December 22, 2013, 08:59:04 PM »

I guess I'm gonna find out about this come spring.

Pfaff! · « **Reply #22 on:** December 23, 2013, 11:43:54 AM »

Quote from: Kev m on December 22, 2013, 08:59:04 PM

I guess I'm gonna find out about this come spring.

That you will, that you will, Kev.

NSX · « **Reply #23 on:** December 23, 2013, 11:54:13 AM »

Quote from: sign216 on December 22, 2013, 04:11:02 PM

I wrote a tutorial on lubing the splines. It might might help. It's here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/sign216/sets/72157625569987011/

Removing the rear wheel is part of the process.

Joe

Thanks, Joe, that's a great writeup. You might be able to get the wheel off in 10 minutes like Pfaff! said, but getting things to fit back together is going to take longer. I guess I'll go for something with a single sided swingarm. The bike I have that's got one has spoiled me.

barenekd · « **Reply #24 on:** December 23, 2013, 12:37:14 PM »

I changed my tire a few weeks ago. When I pulled the wheel off it just came out of the rubber shock doodads. I had to remove the bolt from the left shock to get , I guess, the brake off. I left the right shock attached. However, I don't have a rear fender, you may need to take the shock loose to get the wheel out from under the fender. To put the wheel back on, I supported it with a board and put the axle in temporarily to get the wheel aligned and pushed all the way in as I got the rubber doodads, greased and lined up, to stay in place, then shoved the wheel back into the slots. Getting the long spacer back in was the hard part. I used a tire iron to spread the swing arm and wheel enough to get the spacer started. The big orange hammer finished the deed. The orange hammer came into play a few times in this show. It'll be a lot easier next time!
Getting the axle in to align the wheel was one of the big hassle savers, The tire iron and hammer were the other prime tools.
Bare

Clancy · « **Reply #25 on:** April 03, 2016, 06:43:49 PM »

Thanks to all who posted this information.
It took all the guesswork out of removing the wheel & bevel box.
I really can see this being a 10min operation next time I need a new tyre.

Just one little question.
What spring?

Quote from: kitze2 on November 02, 2011, 01:03:27 PM

That little preload spring could disappear if you're not forewarned.

Could not see or find a spring anywhere.

Zinfan · « **Reply #26 on:** April 05, 2016, 12:19:56 AM »

http://www.harpermoto.com/parts-by-motorcycle/2010-2020-moto-guzzis/v7-special-stone-750-2012-2013/transmission-complete-i-en-v7-special-stone-750-2012-2013.html

Part #6. It sits in the coupling between the output shaft of the transmission (#7) and the final drive shaft (#2 on the drawing). It may be inside the coupling (#3) hidden behind the small plate (#5). I hope I have the right.

Clancy · « **Reply #27 on:** April 05, 2016, 01:06:20 AM »

Thanks heaps.
Have now downloaded the parts manual for the V7-II.

Bluerobotz · « **Reply #28 on:** April 05, 2016, 04:39:09 AM »

Do yourself a favour and dip the end of the spring in grease to stop it moving while trying to re-assemble. Also if I'd got this far I'd whip off the swing arm and check the UJ splines for grease (or lack thereof), and slap some more on anyway just to make sure. Definitely worth it with a new bike that hasn't been checked. Grease must be expensive in Mandello Del Lario, as many have found to their cost. Pretty easy to do at this stage, just check where each spacer goes when you pull the swinging arm bolt. There is an extra spacer on one side which can be abducted by aliens never to be found again in a totally empty, freshly painted and swept double garage.

I also soak my UJ overnight in engine oil while I'm at it. I know, I know I'm a little paranoid about the UJ on these bikes lol.

Clancy · « **Reply #29 on:** April 06, 2016, 07:33:24 PM »

Quote from: Bluerobotz on April 05, 2016, 04:39:09 AM

Also if I'd got this far I'd whip off the swing arm and check the UJ splines for grease (or lack thereof), and slap some more on anyway just to make sure.

Thanks, I did as you suggested.