Author Topic: Rear Wheel replacement on a V7 Classic.  (Read 13525 times)

Offline Muzz

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Re: Rear Wheel replacement on a V7 Classic.
« Reply #30 on: April 06, 2016, 07:50:26 PM »
In the photo where you show the spring Clancy you will see on the drive gear why it pays to grease it each time you have the wheel out. The grease film has gone off it in places.

I don't know if it is necessary or not but I always use CV grease with the moly added in that area.
Muzz. Cristchurch, New Zealand
03 Breva

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Ya wake up in the morning and it's there

Offline Brevaman

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Re: Rear Wheel replacement on a V7 Classic.
« Reply #31 on: April 27, 2017, 05:06:57 PM »
Thanks for all the suggestions, guys!  It gave me the confidence to remove the wheel so I could change the rear tire.
On my Breva, there was no way I was going to get the wheel off without removing the bevel box, too.  As soon as I tried, the cush segments started coming loose. 
I took off the right side muffler and lower shock mount, too. 
On the left side,I found removing the spacer was no problem once I pivoted the caliper housing down on the stud it pivots on.  This is where you want to grow an extra arm.   
Usually, reassembly goes quicker than dis-assembly.  Maybe it was a senior moment, but it took almost 2 hours to get the wheel back on and everything re-connected.  Made me wish it was like the single sided K bike I had... :shocked:
I was hoping for a diagram of the mating of the bevel box to the hub.  I guessed at the position of the cush segments relative to the "fingers" on the bevel.. :tongue:  I'll take it out for a test ride tomorrow and see if I was right!  (I put the fingers "behind" the cush segments such that they'd compress on acceleration... I REALLY hope I was right!!)

I sure hope this is the only exception to the idea that guzzl's are simple to work on.  I'd hate to attempt this on the side of the road! :shocked:
'08 Breva 750, the pretty one
'16 CB500X
'11 Suzuki DL650A sold
'09 Yamaha XT250 sold
'90 BMW K100LT sold
'80 Suzuki G850L sold
'70 R75/5 Black Beauty sold

Offline malik

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Re: Rear Wheel replacement on a V7 Classic.
« Reply #32 on: April 27, 2017, 07:02:21 PM »
Yes, those cush rubbers are a pain. Here's a couple of tips. If it's taking too long (tell me about it), have a break, walk away, have a cuppa, then come back. Often it will then just slide on & the rubbers won't fall out. If you have a centre stand, put a block of wood under the right hand leg - that helps keep the Cush rubbers in. Sometime a bit of grease may help. Practice makes it easier - you get more familiar with everything, especially aligning the final drive's tangs to the spaces between the runners.

No, you don't NEED to take the final drive off, but once it is off, it's an opportunity to grease the splines on the drive shaft - that keeps the corrosion down - water seeps into the swing arm & sits near the splines. Each time I change the rear tyre I grease those splines (& let the water out).

BTW, you CAN do it at the side of the road. Lots of us have done it, but it really helps if it's a familiar process. That's one of reasons I change tyres myself - to keep in practice. Good luck.
2010 V7 Classic, 2014 V7 Special
1996 1100 Sport Carb (in NZ), 2004 V11 LeMans (in UK)
Carberry Enfield V-Twin, 2008 Royal Enfield Electra, 2006 RE Electra 535

Offline organfixsing

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Re: Rear Wheel replacement on a V7 Classic.
« Reply #33 on: April 28, 2017, 06:04:03 AM »
As far as the cush rubbers go, suggest sticking them in the wheel using double sided tape designed for stationery use, i.e.the very thin stuff.
It does not have super glue characteristics and the attachment will break quite easily when required by the function of the cush rubbers.

Cheers
Brian   :wink:
If you remove the wings of a fly, does that make it a walk?

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Re: Rear Wheel replacement on a V7 Classic.
« Reply #33 on: April 28, 2017, 06:04:03 AM »

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