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I can reach the lifters from inside the cylinder base hole....figured I would just hold them up as I pull the cam out...suppose I could clamp them up somehow, not sure I will need to. I do not want to use anything magnetic on them. We will find out tonight!
One thing you might want to take note of: it looks like your alternator rotor is a permanent magnet type. If it is, you should store the rotor inside the stator. The rotor needs to be close to the "keeper" for reasons having to do with magnetic flux lines, domain walls, and entropy. Short version is storing the rotor bare for days on end can weaken the permanent magnets, which will reduce the alternator output. Other than that, keep up the good work, and keep the pictures coming!Howard
Impressive work Mike!! ;-T ;-T :bow :bowNoticed one thing. The progressive springs are upside down. The closely wound part of the spring should be and the base plate/retainer. Not at the top retainer. Is there a speciffic reason to turning them upside down Mike? The upside down position will leave more valve weight to be moved, lowering the top rpm.The valve rockers not being centered on the valve stem is intentional. They are support to turn the valve slightly at each plunge :)Great you chose the Guzzi stem caps. My alternative suggestion turne out to be a poor choice. See Chucks Lario rehab thread.CheersBrian
Ah, thanks for that Brian, I was wondering about the orientation of the spring when I assembled the heads. No big deal to pull them back off and turn the springs over. I have to pull the studs and shorten them anyway.My plan this afternoon is to shorten the studs and drill the right hand cylinder for the head temp sender.One step at a time..Cheers,
I need to look up the valve clearance requirements before I put on the valve cover. Also, does anyone reading this have suggestions for spark plugs?
Use regular plugs in mine. May try iridiums again sometime fur kicks. Gaps aren't that sensitive. I've gone as far as 1 mm when it ran too rich. I'm around .80 or so now. As long as it jumps the gap. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
NGK C8HSA plugs. The Lario calls for .023" spark plug gap.
Wow, .080 gap...that's pretty big! I take it the coils have no problem jumping that? What wires did you use?I gotta read your thread again!! lol
Yes... mm not inch. While running rich Milich told me 1mm. Ran fine. I've lessened it because it's much leaner now. Stock C8HSA of course. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Noticed one thing. The progressive springs are upside down. The closely wound part of the spring should be and the base plate/retainer. Not at the top retainer. Is there a specific reason to turning them upside down Mike? The upside down position will leave more valve weight to be moved, lowering the top rpm.
I decided to go with NGK C8HSA plugs.
I checked the oil ring gap on the right cylinder, it was at .007"
oil scraper ring: mm 0.20 - 0.70 (in 0.0079 -0.0275).