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Now you're starting to think like a sparky
The light on the 52 relay must be fully lit also, I have seen mine flickering at ~50% when the stand switch was faulty.
FYI, I got my sensor cheap from Elbonia. Like $20. It was a little muddy, but has worked fine now for 50,000 miles. I’m still betting grotty connectors or simply a bad sensor. Yes, the air gap is important, but if it worked before, I don’t see how that can be the issue since the gap can’t change. Unless you did something immediately before the failure like add an O ring. I’m assuming you tried tightening the screws that hold the sensor in place.
I didn't touch the sensor, the screws...nothing before this happened. I can see clear, shiny metal lines on the connectors. I'm guessing it is the sensor also, but I won't know for sure until I replace it. Right now, my theories are: oil incursion has somehow damaged the electronics, the wires are too close to something else (coils) so I'm getting interference or there is a mystery wire broken somewhere. Here's hoping my Latvian replacement comes in soon.
I'll give the heat gun a try... interesting point about hooking the leads up reverse. The ECU is a 15M. I remember when Cliff Jeffries started his myECU project- I think it was for an 1100 sport? The good folks at V11LeMans got very interested in it (I had a V11 sport at the time). That's above my pay grade- I've made tube (valve) amplifiers and some stereo gear, but that's about it.Cheers,
The third wire just attaches to a foil sheath that surrounds the two wires. I’m sure to cut down on RF interference, and ground on the bike.
I don’t really trust these sensors anymore. And if one fails, you aren’t moving. I highly recommend keeping a known good sensor stashed under your seat somewhere. They are small, light, cheap, but mission critical.
-----------------------------------------SSwede- you might be right about the sensor not being a true Hall effect. I don't know- the wiring on the loom for the 'S' lead does go to ground, so that supports your statement (that it is just a shield). I tried pretty much every combination of oscilloscope on the sensor and never got a signal out of it. I might put it back in...but that involves removing the tank again. Twice. I'm going to wait until my spare arrives, then see if I can get a signal out that. I'm inertial in that regards.
In my experience coils often fail at the solder joint where the coil is soldered to the leads, i'm not sure why, perhaps it's the corrosive nature of the solder flux or some differential expansion thing.I used to find a lot of transformers would go open circuit where the stranded copper wire was joined to the winding.
--------------------SmithSwede Do you have a source of the cam sensor for our V7s?
Wanna guess where I bought the replacement module?