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Can you mic. the old and new bearings to confirm the thickness?
Have you pushed the sealing to the bottom? Did you mention that the thickness was 7mm? My sealings atre about 8-9mm thick. The sealings has 2 lips, and the upper lip is a dust lip. The major lip is at the bottom.Rolf
Odd. I'll list a few thoughts, but I suspect you covered all of this.1. Is the seal all the way seated. I ask because maybe that seal driver you have is too big, hitting the metal lip, and not driving the seal deep enough. I think the seal goes a bit below the metal lip.2. How thick is the output bearing. I'm sure it is right, but I have to ask.3. Sort of unrelated to the depth issue, is the speedo drive seal surface perfect? I've always worried that it is fragile and would be easy to damage.
You have probably assembled the sealing ring - the wrong way.Rolf
KevYes - the oil seal. It has one inside and one outside position. The open end is the inside - and should face the gearbox internal.Rolf
KevI had some problem seeing the video - but after seeing it in full screen, I see that the seal is in place in the correct way - and deep enough.But some sealing rings has 2 lips. The lower lip is the original sealing lip, and the upper smaller lip - is a dust lip.In the video - it looks like you touches the dust lip. The lower lip may me in an OK position.Check the outer surface of the big wheel - where it seals against the seal.Rolf
I replaced that same seal during my LM2 refurb.I used a double lip viton seal in place of the oem blue seal.As you can see from the pic, the seal is too deep to allow the dust lip part of the seal to contact its mating surface.The oil seal which you can see as the lower lip on the seal provides a good seal and has done so for several years.As the upper lip is only a dust seal it didn't worry me too much as there isn't much dust in that area to keep out?Seal with the double lips visible:Seal in place, you can see the dust seal lip doesn't quite mate:
single or twin lip - I do not believe it matters. The main lip is in the same position.Rolf
The only follow-up to this , is verify that the sleeve the seal rides on is in excellent shape . I'd also suggest a viton lipped seal ( some times called high speed seals at supply houses). Peter
I know a bit about seals. (And the following is about the sum total of my seal knowledge )The advantage of Viton over Buna (Ie: a black seal) is mainly it's better performance with high temperature applications. Viton is also more resistant to certain chemicals, sunlight and weather. AFAIK, there is no difference in performance with respect to speed. In any case, the output shaft is spinning at roughly 4,000 rpm on the highway, not a particularly high speed application. But an advantage that might be important here is that Buna is more tear and abrasion resistant. Since that particular seal is at the "cool" end of the transmission, you might want to stick with a buna seal. I assembled (my first ) Tonti transmission a few months ago and I recall the seal lips being exactly on the edge of the worm drive, which was a bit concerning, but, you know, Italian engineering. And as has been mentioned, it's a double lipped seal in an enclosed space, not exposed to road dirt. So I pressed on with my renewing of the bike.That might just be a malformed seal, could have been because of manufacturing or storage. In the video it looks like the seal lip may be actually curled outwards? Have you tried pressing the lip area inwards and spinning the o/p shaft to see if it stays in place?
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