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General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: et18 on March 26, 2021, 06:16:05 PM
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Has anyone found a good aftermarket source for 1400 spark plug wires? I just can't bring myself to pay $200+ for the OEM set. I'm running NGK caps on the OEM wires and at least one of them is causing misfires above 4K RPM. I'd just replace the caps again but I don't think there is enough wire left on them to trim anymore off and still reach the plugs. I can tighten the caps up on the wires and it fixes the problem for a while but the problem always pops back up a couple months later.
Thanks
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Any local auto parts store should have copper core HTL in stock. Make sure you have the proper plug seals on the caps as water intrusion is easy peasy through the gaping gap above the exhaust ports.
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check out "Magnecore". They will make Ign.wires to your specifications. What is it with id...s that think they have to stay with OEM?
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Belden Bulk Wire at NAPA www.napaonline.com/en/p/BEL734803 (http://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BEL734803)
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I just put a 1400 engine in my 87 LMIV so I very recently had to sort ign. wires out. I don't know what type of connection is at the coil for sure on a stock 1400 but it looks pretty standard. A good auto parts store would be able to match up some 4 cyl wires with the same ends and then cut them to length and run the NGK ends.I was surprised to hear solid copper core mentioned but a set of 1400 wires on ebay did appear to say that on them. If that is required for some reason you may need to use bulk and you can get ends for the coil as well. When I was building mine I found the recommended NGK ends to be SB05E but it turns out SD05E would have been the right ones. The "D" means the boot at the plug end is a proper fit on the insulator on 10mm plugs because the "B" is larger for 14mm plugs. Thus the "B" sized boot will allow moisture in. SD05E exists but nobody locally had them and even ebay only had them in Europe. Since I had the SB05E,s I am running the loose boots for now and bought the cheapest ones I could get with a D as the second character (LD05FP) and when they arrive I will use those boots. Another issue was with the boot on it was very tight to push into the hole for the main plug and to make sure I could pull them out later I actually chucked the up in my lathe and took a little off the lip at the bottom so the boot had less of a bulge there. For whatever reason the outboard holes were not as tight. Also I believe it is important to not mix the inboard and outboard wires as the outboard only fires when the computor deems it necessary. At least that is my understanding.
The unusual depth of the recessed hole for the plugs and the fact that there seems to be only the one NGK plug for this engine limits your choices at the plug end because you are stuck with the non removable tip where the lead connects.
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Leroy, post your 1400 Lemans conversion.
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Leroy, post your 1400 Lemans conversion.
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It's near the top of the builds section you can't miss it.
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Thanks, guys, lots of good info here that should make this a quick and easy job.
Love the LMIV project, I bet that bike gets all the attention at Euro-bike night.
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You guys called it, the weak firing was likely due to water intrusion and somewhat loose fitting caps. The washers on all four plugs were starting to rust. New plugs along with the 24K schedule and it's running like a top again.
I did the charcoal canister line delete along with the regular scheduled items and I'm really not sure if it's ever run this strong before. Has anyone here done the canister line delete in isolation and noticed a big difference? This is the line that runs into the right throttle body, just remove the line and plug the hole.
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and for an easy extraction of the ngk caps, use a small size tyrap around it and pull at the end. Leave the Tyrap on the cap forever.
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and for an easy extraction of the ngk caps, use a small size tyrap around it and pull at the end. Leave the Tyrap on the cap forever.
Hi Paul, when using the NGK caps are there any problems with too much water get in to the plugs, because they don't seal around the top like the OEM ones.
Cheers, John.
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That’s exactly the problem I had, the NGK caps worked great for several weeks every time I changed them but eventually water intrusion would short them out. In the end I bought a set of OEM wires and haven’t had a problem since.
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just had my first bad wire---ordered a new one from italy---was told it will be here in september-----so i went through the pick a part gammut looking for auto wires to match----what i found is the coil ends are used on VW Volvo and mercedes the plug ends are a different matter-----i found a nissan frontier PU 4 cylinder that has beautiful soft plug ends that were too long----shortened them down----it works---my routine is to hit the pick a part----find parts to match then buy new------if i make a complete set i will buy new Volvo wires and cut them down to fit---will have to fit the used nissan sparkplug rubber----the new nissan part is molded hard plastic---cant cut it down to fit....i think the soft nissan frontier plug is original equipment...