Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: sdcr on October 15, 2021, 09:03:21 AM
-
Please let me apologize in advance for starting yet another “oil” thread. My new to me 2001 California EV states in the manual, “ Agip 4T SUPER RACING SAE 20w50”.
So my question is, is there a comparable, similar type oil that will offer good protection available? Not averse to shopping at a Wall Mart, autozone etc, just want to get the right stuff. My last Guzzi Le Mans used Rotella diesel, and I don’t think that would be appropriate for this machine.
Regarding fuel, I had to add a few gallons of 89 octane regular while in upstate NY, as the station ran out of premium. Bike ran fine, no detonation. Just wondering if 89 pump fuel is OK?
-
As previously posted Guzzi tech note 010-2006-28-07-2006 for your bike states that racing 4T 10W-60 recommended oil. As alternate, racing 4T 20W-50 may be used.
-
On my 1994 California 1100, and on my 2004 EV, I used 89 octane most of the time. A couple of times when I would go to the coast, in the summer, I would notice a little pinging if I got stuck in hot traffic, so I would bump up the octane. But here in Atlanta, even in hot traffic jams, I never got any pinging.
As for the oil, :boozing:
(https://i.ibb.co/ZGRQPSR/118294510-10216985571461966-5912625176394807236-n.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ZGRQPSR)
-
For the oil any quality synthetic 10W-60 or 20W-50 will work fine. I wold go with the 20W-50 myself. If Rotella had either in synthetic, I'd use it. Mobil 1 comes to mind for an easy one to find. Castrol and Valvoline make synthetic motorcycle oils and can be found in auto parts stores.
Tom
-
89 should be fine if the bike is in tune. These bikes are designed to run US 90 octane. Many of us run premium, myself included, but 93 octane is wasted on these motors.
2001 should run great with any high quality moto 20w50.
-
Thanks guys. So, the consensus is use a full synthetic, 20/50.
I imaging a Mobil 1 car oil should be Ok, since I have a dry clutch. I recall wall mart occasionally discounting Mobil 1.
-
"Orwig" that cartoon was hilarious :thumb: . Peter
-
Thanks guys. So, the consensus is use a full synthetic, 20/50.
I imaging a Mobil 1 car oil should be Ok, since I have a dry clutch. I recall wall mart occasionally discounting Mobil 1.
I would use Mobil 1 V twin oil and not the regular Mobil 1 car oil. Why, because it has twice the amount of Zinc and Phosphorus in it which your cam and lifters will thank you for. I used to use Mobil 1 car oil in 20-50wt on my V11 Sport and did change it often, on a tear down at 30k, there were signs of cam and lifter wear. I have also seen this on a Jackal I used to own as well. Now I use the slightly more expensive Mobil 1 V-twin oil in 20-50wt because of the added zinc and phosphorus.
The amount of zinc and phosphorus was lowered from car oils years ago because it would coat the insides of the catalytic converter. This caused havoc with vintage cars owners that had the old style cam and lifters (before roller lifters).
-
I use Valvoline 4-stroke motorcycle oil 20W50 available at Walmart. My 98 V11EV runs fine on ethanol free 87 octane.
-
Regular gas with ethanol. Semisynth 10/40
-
Regular gas with ethanol. Semisynth 10/40
Valvoline also makes a racing oil in 20w50 that has a high zinc content. Make sure whatever you use has high zinc
-
Thanks guys. So, the consensus is use a full synthetic, 20/50.
I think Mobil 1 car oil should be Ok, since I have a dry clutch. I recall wall mart occasionally discounting Mobil 1.
I have used the mobile 1 15/50 full synthetic for a couple decades.
Im no oil specialist by no means but with a little research I found out that this oil was formulated for heavy duty use. I just bought two 5qt jugs for 23.00 bucks each. If your bikes manufacture is ok with that weight, you can’t beat it.
-
Thanks guys. The owners manual states 20/50, so, I want to stay with the same weight.
It just so happens, I have two unopened quarts of Valvoline 20/50 racing oil on a shelf. Just need to remember where I bought it...
-
I run a 15/50 on a Sport and a LM 1000 and have been quite a while
Unless you're running the engine in extreme ambients it's fine as would a 20/50.
If you consistently run in higher ambients, say 90s and above, then perhaps a 10/60.
The reason for the slightly lower viscosity Winter index of 15 over 20 just means it's a smidgen thinner so faster to lubricate when cold.
In reality unless riding in extreme temps these bikes will run fine on any of the 3 viscosity grades mentioned.
IMHO what's more important is full synth and the zinc and phosphorus content
As far as fuel goes, I run premium when I can get it, here in the UK that's 95 Octane (with Octane ratings, I think the US permium is similar to ours but you use different units of measure) E5 if I not then regular 89 Octane E10 it is. The bike runs pretty well on either, but a little better on premium (probably my imagination).
I'm more focused on these bikes being pre Ethanol so I'd rather not expose myself to the risk of O rings and lines hardening or swelling in the fuel system, so I always run the fuel with the lowest E content, with E5 now being the minimum in Europe (thank you Brussels)
For Winter storage, I'd use whatever gas you can get that's got the lowest Ethanol content (preferably none) and a fuel stabiliser.
Ocassionally check your fuel hoses as they're probably not Ethanol proof and they will probably crack especially around the hose clips
I'm not saying what I'm doing is right, but always interested in differing views on the topics
-
I just love the recommendations for oils that weren't even around when the bike was built. Castrol GTX or Valvoline 20x50 is my go to. I normally run premium in the 02 Stone and regular in the Centauro, but might try the regular in the Stone after reading others results.
-
I just love the recommendations for oils that weren't even around when the bike was built. Castrol GTX or Valvoline 20x50 is my go to.
Why?
Guzzi updated the recommendations for some of the bikes later.
The lubricants in the handbook of older machines, are obviously contemperanious with the year of manufacture. Lubricants able to operate over larger temperature ranges are now available, so why not make use of them, if it's applicable?
That said, the 2v/v bikes generally run on the cold side and oil pressure, from the data I have on my 2x2v/v engined bikes (LM 1000 and Sport 1100i) is rock steady at 60psi, unless I get caught in a lot of standing traffic for an extended period. So generally it's not a worry, at least for me and I've never heard of anybody in a Guzzi forum stating they blew an engine because they changed oil grade (now waits for a dozen posters quoting me examples)
My Daytona RS engine OTOH runs incredibly hot, currently it has a 15/50 but I'm thinking of going to a 10/60. As I know the oil temp and pressure that's why I'm considering changing grade
Most folks stick to what the manufacturer recommends come hell or high water and YouTube is full advice from motorcycle "experts" telling you change the grade and you'll wreck the engine.
Personally I just don't think that philosophy is a particularly sound one if you have data to the contrary.
Just me I'm not saying I'm right just putting a point of view across
-
(https://i.ibb.co/cgLbd28/Screenshot-20211016-234300-X-plore.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cgLbd28)
Workshop manual for my 1999 EV
-
98 EV - regular gas, Dino Castrol 20-50 GTX. Add a few ounces of Eastwood ZDDP for the heck of it. Doubt that I need to baby this old tractor.
-
Yes Joliet, explain your reasoning!
-
I like Castrol 20-50 motorcycle blend and premium fuel on my '98 EV.