V7 Classic Starts then cuts out

[Tomas0365]

Hi All

Looking for some hints before I trailer the bike to the mechanic.
I'm putting my 09 V7C back to standard.  I had replaced all the bodywork with later model V7 stuff and also had a Rapidbike Evo module on it.  I've put it all back together and the bike wouldn't start. 

Spent some time checking all the connectors, fuses and relays and decided the start up relay was playing up.  I replaced that relay and the bike started and ran.  I mention here also that I could not get Guzzidiag to talk to my bike  I want to reinstall the original map.

Left the bike overnight and went to take the bike for a ride this morning and couldn't get it to run.  The bike would fire up then immediately stall.  I replaced all the fuses and relays.  Still no joy.  I felt like the bike was not getting fuel so I put the v7 stone fuel tank/pump that was on the bike, and working, back on, but no change.  When you turn the key on you can here the fuel pump priming.

Removed the spark plugs and cranked the bike.  The spark plugs give about 3 good size sparks then no longer produced any spark if you continue to crank the starter.

The battery is new and I am using a booster as well.  The side stand and clutch cut outs have been bypassed, but I rechecked those and they appear as they were 3 days ago when the bike was running.  Neutral is engaged when trying to start.  I've run the multi meter over the fuses and the starter solenoid and there is a solid 12.4 volts. 

I have checked all the connectors again.  The only concern I have after the removal of the rapidbike evo is that the brown wire running to the connector for the tps was a bit damaged but I believe I fixed it. 

So, is there anything obvious I am missing?  If the TPS is not getting signal from the ecu (ie if the brown wire is still damaged) would that cause the issue I'm having?

[guzzisteve]

Could be the ECU. I replaced 6 or more w/they were newer models. If GuzziDiag doesn't communicate try a differen't software. I have found that GuzziDiag talks to the ECU w/other software fails to.
If it is spark you are loosing I would check the timing sensor, they go bad also.
Just some ideas.

[malik]

Annoying mystery. If Guzzidiag won't connect, then I'd guess too that the ECU is perhaps suspect. The workshop manuals describe testing procedures for most the electrical/electronic bits - they are not always clear or straightforward to most of us mere mortals, but they are there, so it's worth persevering. If you can borrow the skills of someone who knows his way around a multimeter, you'll have a head start. Good luck.

[Kiwi_Roy]

All of the fuel injected bikes since 1996 have a pair of relays that operate the ECU, see attached http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2008_V7_Classic.gif  (11) & (12)
The first one, the main injection relay turns the ECU On which causes the fuel pump to run for a couple of seconds.
Note how this one is polarized with a diode, the only reason for that is to protect the sensitive electronics of the ECU from accidental battery reversal, really these two relays should be identical as they were in previous years.

When the motor starts to crank the secondary injection relay turns on the fuel pump again and the ignition coils and fuel injectors start the motor. The thing is its almost impossible to tell if the relays are working just by looking. For years I have been suggesting to owners that troubleshooting would be made much simpler if they knew what the relays are doing, adding a small lamp to the 87 contact will show you the status.
A light on The primary relay will show if there is a bad connection or contact such as a side-stand switch, anything in the permissive.
A light on the secondary relay will show if the pump, injectors and ignition is alive.
Just a simple LED and 2.2K resistor about $2 worth will give you a little light show you soon recognize, the 5 milliamps this uses is worth a fortune.
I suggest you add them to the relays at first then decide later if it warrants a permanent installation.
87 contact - 2.2K resistor - long lead of LED short lead of LED to chassis

[Tomas0365]

Well its embarrassing to report that I had not noticed I had disturbed the lean angle sensor
 
Got the bike running, everything seemed to be working, then the headlight dropped out, both high and low beam and now I can't isolate what that issue is   I'm trying to figure out how power gets to the lights via the switch.  The parking light is working and there is continuity from the switch to the lights.  But I don't think the there is power to the switch.  Much headscratching still to do.

[Kiwi_Roy]

Well its embarrassing to report that I had not noticed I had disturbed the lean angle sensor
 
Got the bike running, everything seemed to be working, then the headlight dropped out, both high and low beam and now I can't isolate what that issue is   I'm trying to figure out how power gets to the lights via the switch.  The parking light is working and there is continuity from the switch to the lights.  But I don't think the there is power to the switch.  Much headscratching still to do.

Thats great feedback, you have no idea how often we try to help and never hear what the problem was.
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2008_V7_Classic.gif
Is it possible you have the wrong relay in (36)
The start relay shows a 5 pin, which fails back to the Normally closed contact and feeds the headlight relay which feeds the switch.
If you have a 4 pin relay in the start slot it will never power up the headlight relay.
The Normally closed contacts are not as reliable as the normally open, the spring is not as strong as the electro magnet.
Look for power on the purple jumper between the two relays.

The power for the start relay and the headlight relay is routed through the ignition switch so you can look forward to Startus Interrupts down the road, sorry.

[Tomas0365]

I eventually tracked down the lack a lack of power to the fact a connector leading going into the start relay had come a little loose.  Wow.  Wasn't completely out so couldn't see it was the problem but thank goodness for multi meters.

Thanks for the links to the wiring diagrams.  They helped heaps.

[Kiwi_Roy]

This thread is just about the first on the V7, your experience will be valuable for other owners.

Are you saying a connector on the Start Relay socket was loose?
Typically the start relay has to handle about 40 Amps for a split second so it needs a good solid connection.
The starter motor (21) is nothing like they show, it has two coils I call the holding coil and the Grunt coil.

I predict one day you will go to start and get the dreaded Startus Interrupts click, don't panic, try cycling the key switch a couple of times
If that doesn't work be prepared to hot wire the starter solenoid or bump start. The fix on these should be simple.

The Guzzi community owes a huge debt of gratitude to Carl Allison for his wonderful drawings.

[sign216]

A loose connector can be a problem.  You can't see that it's not fully on, and if the problem is intermittent then it's even harder to track.
Glad you found it.
Joe