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I dont think a V700 will do 80--90mph at all, let alone all day! I cant get my Ambo over 75, but im a great big ol'boy. It does seem it would run happily at 65mph all day and all night tho
I just wanted to make sure which engine we are talking about. Is this a 700cc or a 750cc? Makes a bit of a difference with gearing and such.Tom
Just do it. Take a few spares (plugs, points etc.) and a good tool kit and ride. If you do have a little trouble on the way, think of it as part of the adventure.Modern bikes, with their effortless reliability and performance are just so dull. Enjoy the challenge. Take the V7.Nick
A few years ago I rebuilt a 850T and rode it from Stockholm to the factory in Mandello with some friends. Finished the build the evening before we left. The test ride was from the garage to my home and back for some sleep. Re-torqued the heads, checked fluids and off we went. Did the first change of oil in France. Kind of stupid but had no problems whatsoever. Did the same trip a year later. Clutch cable snapped in Germany on the way home, apart from that no problems.I wouldnít hesitate to do it again. Also, stop by for a cup of coffee in Stockholm!
Great to know i have back-up in Stockholm if needed. Tanks!
Generally very reliable - some one else mentioned electrics, and I would agree. IMHO the wiring harness is way too complex.... If you're on the original starter relay - replace it. Other weak spots on the V7's are the seals in the bell housing (engine and Tranny), the clutch cable and the U Joint. One more - as the bike is 50yrs old - if you've not done so replace the wheel bearings all round. The BEST thing a disintegrating bearing will do is leave you stranded. The worst.....will leave you personally with no future problems...at all.....ever...
Sorry, but I don't agree with some of this. The original (non-police) Loopframe wiring is about the most simple and easy to understand of any motorcycle ever. Adding relays for the headlight and horn is a good idea. The clutch cable is no more prone to failure than on any other Guzzi and on a 4 spd. Loop is very easy replace. Use a good quality cable such as those made by Barnett and keep the hand lever and barrel fitting that goes into it greased and moving freely. Barnett also makes the best quality brake cables. Yes, the u-joint is smaller on drum-brake Guzzis than on disk-brake Guzzis, but can last a very long time unless the bike is ridden heavily loaded, has performance modifications, or the rider abuses it. My '69 with 111k miles still has the original u-joint. Same with the wheel bearings. They are an uncommon sized tapered roller bearing, not readily available at bearing suppliers. Aftermarket replacements of unknown origin are available, and Peters Bearings in Germany may have new old stock. Fortunately, if kept greased and shimmed properly they will outlast the rest of the bike. I cleaned and repacked mine when I replaced the tires last time - at 105k miles they still looked nearly new. In the 15 years I've been wrenching on old Guzzis professionally, I have yet to see a bad one of these wheel bearings. More suspect would be steering head, swingarm pivot and u-joint carrier bearings.
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