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Are you the aeroplane bloke ?
Ha!That's the rumor!We are not talking airplanes , were not talking motorbikes...we are talking Guzzis'Carry on at your own peril!BTW,Riddle me this please:What is the minimum and maximum oil pressure for the Goose better yet IS there one??So I can write it down!Thanx,:-)
Great Oil Thread, Huzo!Thanks for posting it (even if it gets you get banned for life).Us 2007 Norge riders (*) are randomly plagued with bad oil pressure sensor units and self-schatting oil pumps, sometimes either or both. My oil light often comes on at cold start but goes away by the end of the block. If it's a bad sensor I don't care. Actual low oil pressure is too scary (and $$$) to contemplate. It would be good to know how and what to hook up to get an actual reading.(*) As Joe Bonamassa sings, "Take Mercy On My Self-Inflicted Wounds..." https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SU0JEvoM1k0'Geezer
One day the Kid, who is a *very* good mechanic, thought it might be a good idea to find out what the oil temp was running in his Sport. He called MG Cycles, about one of the temperature dipsticks and Gordon said, "Sure, I'll sell you one, but you probably won't like what you see. Then, what are you going to do about it?" That Gordon Shirley puts the hard sell on a guy..The Kid said, "Ok, I get your point. Never mind.."
No, no bloody no..!Checking the level will not prove the efficacy or otherwise of the pump.I’m not asking for advice on whether it’s necessary or not..I just want advice like Old Jock gave.
I can understand we are all different, I cannot understand why anybody would NOT want to know, it's an anathema to me.I get a Magni Australia, something I've wanted for around 15 years and probably pay over the odds for it. I replace the oil pump (known weakness on Hi Cams) and on the first ride out, I notice pressure is a bit low when cold. I get snagged in some traffic when heading out of town. Oil presure light comes on, gauge confirms, around 8psi, perhaps less, kill the engine and coast into a carpark, oil temp, 120C (close to 250F).Wait for it to cool down and ride home with eye on pressure the whole way, yes it was dropping and temp rising, despite not much traffic on the way backWithout knowing pressure and temp, God knows what I would have done, especially given that the switches are notoriously unrelaible.Ignored it? Wreck the engine, best case, or siezed the engine and thrown myself and expensive motorcycle down the road perhaps under a bus or into roadside furniture.Apologies for OFF TOPIC
No that’s fine, but I just flinch when people question the need to know if your oil pressure is on the way out.
Two valve norge? at that distance you should be on about the third timing chain put a timing light on it at idle and see if its jumping around, I would suggest if its low oil pressure causing rattling sounds it would of gone horribly wrong by now, could also be something like rocker pivots that have a bit more play than they once did. I can't remember if the oil pump was rebuilt when we did the motor at 140 000kms on the sport, it would of at least been checked. As others have said taping the sender switch or removing it is probably easiest.
A final note about "knocking"My beemer developed a light knock at idle at about 150K and it turned out to me the rocker float...it was only about .002 out of limits, adjusted same , goodbye knock!German engineering..a mystery but accurate.BTW ,No pressure or temp gauges on my R1150.( also no stated limits), I don't want to know..
Two valve norge? at that distance you should be on about the third timing chain put a timing light on it at idle and see if its jumping around
Rocker end float Kirby or lash ?I sort of wondered if the rocker/spindle clearance was opening up.That would not concern me unduly if it were.On the topic of valve lash clearance..When checking the .004” and .006” readings, what do y’all do regarding holding the rocker against the pushrod to close up all the looseness during readings ?I may be setting them a bit wide, but I don’t think so.
I hope it was NOT me who offended KirbyAs far as the numbers, no there is nothing written by GuzziHowever I knew from the get go with the Oz something was not quite right, from info I've gleaned from my other bikes and it did prove precsient.I did not mean to be controversial, all I was trying to say is if you gather the data, then you may (& it's just that) have a chance of spotting a problem earlier.Reet am gettin ma coat, I'll only post up again if it's specifically on "how to" stuff or the like, nuff armchair philosophy
There is this specification in the Chilton Motorcycle Repair manual, ca. 1976:"[The oil pressure relive valve] is a maintenance-free item, which must be replaced if it fails to function properly."The standard maximum pressure is 35.6--42.7 psi (2.5--3.0 kg/sq cm) for the 700cc engine, and 54.0--60.0 psi (3.9-4.2 kg/sq cm) for all 750 and 850cc models." (The kg/sq cm to psi conversions are off for the 850cc values. 3.9 converts to 55.5 and 4.2 converts to 59.7. The 750cc conversions are correct per www.sensorone.com. I presume the original values would have been in kg/sq cm.)So if you see a value much above 60 psi you should be replacing the relief valve, at least on the early 750's and 850's. This is off-topic from the original question.Moto