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Oh. That makes it tougher. I'd probably just bite the bullet, pull the head, and machine it out. Fix the insert if it needs it, and try to ignore whatever else I found. You *will* find trouble on an old machine, of course.
If you're trying various witches brews over a course of time, the old homemade standby of 1/2 acetone- 1/2 ATF has always worked best for me. Lannis
However, there was an article comparing various penetrates in the April 2007 issue of Machinist Morkshop Magazine. They arranged a subjective test of all of the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a scientifically rusted environment.Penetrant: Average Load:none 516 ft lbsWD40 238 lbsPB Blaster 214 lbsLiquid Wrench 127 lbsKano Kroil 106 lbsATF-Acetone mix 53 lbs
First of all, I'd punch your brother if I was you for not using anti-seize on the spark plugs.I just had a similar problem with my V11S. I couldn't get the caliper carrying bolt (mounted in the swing arm) out. PB Blaster soaking for a day didn't help. On a whim, I tried CRC Freeze Off. I doused the hell out of it, let it soak for a few minutes, and it finally broke loose. I don't know if this really worked, or if all of the combined efforts worked. With a thread repair already, none of this may help...
I've had good luck using Kroil to loosen rusted bolts. It penetrates very well.http://www.kanolabs.com/msn/
If faced with this I would just search out and buy a used head, get a valve jop and install.end of problem.
Charlie,Did your brother mention which type of thread repair system he used?Recoil/helicoil all use a steel wound wire that fits into an enlarged and threaded hole, the inside diameter will be the size and pitch of the intended fasteners thread.Done correctly they usually stay where needed and don't bind or gall.Ham fistedness can cross thread them.Keen inserts can have the inside hole red filled and a helicoil fitted if the thread is trashed.I would use the acetone/atf mix with a rattle gun on a low setting, going out and back in, rince and repeat until it comes out.If its a helicoil pull it out, recut the thread, you will need the tap that comes with the kit, put in a new helicoil, anti seize the new plug and fit.All of the above rolls off the tongue easily but doesn't allow for the frustration factor and wtf do I do now if logic doesn't work.Good luck with it.
Despite many tries, I have never had PB Blaster work to un-seize anything. I bought a can of Knock-er Loose at the recommendation of someone here, and I have had it do the job. Acetone and ATF has worked for me too. Since it separates, I keep it in a small glass bottle, and shake it up well before each use.
Lots of people have said to heat ther head. This will, however, shrink the sparkplug hole and will not work while the head is hot. The only thing heating will do is perhaps break the galling on the threads when the head is cold. Cooling the head would work, however, the head is such a large chunk of aluminium you would never be able to do it when mounted on the motor. If it were possible to remove the head, a couple of days in the freezer would help to do the job.To explain why the sparkplug holes would shrink, heat a washer with more metal than the hole in the middle and you will find that the hole in the washer will reduce in diameter. This is also why when pressing in new valve guides into a cylinder head, you freeze the valve guide, not heat the head.My 2 cents worthCheersBrian
So heating a piece of metal with a hole in it makes the hole smaller!!!! I'm speechless.Ciao
I'm planning to buy a can of Freeze Off first chance I get and give that a try. Can't hurt.
CRC Freeze-Off is the winner! Sprayed it on the stuck plug for a solid minute, let it soak for another 2, right away the plug felt much more easy to move and moved farther before seizing again. Squirt, soak, turn, repeat and it finally came out! Insert stayed put, but might have boogered threads. Need to find my tap and chase the threads. Getting there...