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That's what I figured. So there's no pressure to get it out - it's not like you can't ride it in the meantime. It's common knowledge to turn the engine using that bolt, but I never thought it was a good idea. I definitely wouldn't without the spark plugs removed, and by the time you've done that, one side's valves could already be adjusted via rotating the rear wheel.
If all fails, here is a the tool: I think you can get it other places too, but that's what it looks like. https://www.ebay.com/i/382756854837?chn=ps
Managed to get the bolt out and replaced it.It’s all good. Here at Peggy’s Cove, Nova Scoria
This is a tool for alternator removal. The Seller indicates that the tool is made of stainless steel (does not specify the grade, type)...Isn't stainless steel a lot softer than the hardened steel required to pop the rotor off the taper? I would think that this tool is NOT what you want.My 850T5 came with a Moto Guzzi-supplied tool. I am wondering if the quality (and specifically the hardness) is up to the job? Has anyone used the Guzzi tool?
Incidentally, apparently you are supposed to bring the removal bolt to some reasonably-high torque value, and then are supposed to rap the nose of the rotor with a rawhide-faced mallet or something that "gives" a 'wee bit (or does not damage the rotor-nose). The percussion is supposed to remove the rotor with a snap. Just trying to apply torque to the centre bolt will not be effective, and risks stripping either the crank female threads, the bolt threads, or the bolt head (like the OP must have done, here).
Thanks for all the help and tips. Got the bolt out with a combination of Chuck’s method and a torx + impact driver