Author Topic: 80 CX100 Lemans update & Enduralast PMA 450w w Energia R/R problems Roy etc  (Read 2648 times)

Offline 80CX100

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     I haven't posted lately on my ongoing efforts to make my 80 Lemans CX100 a more comfortable capable bike,,, because I've come full circle with her, and run into a major road block,,,, an electrical mystery challenge,,,lol.    Sorry for the novel!

     I know that Roy is busy going through his new Griso, but I'm hoping that he or others, knowledgeable in electrical and in particular the EME 450 Permanent Magnet Alternator system with the Ducati Energia shunt style R/R,,, happens to read this,,, and can offer some input into my present problem with my bike's electrickery,lol.

     I finished installing the FAC dampers,Wirth springs & Ikon shocks quite some time ago.

     The Powermadd bar riser clamps, Rizoma handlebar installation is complete,,, that sounds like a simple job, but I had to make up a few brackets for the dash, fairing etc,,, and went through literally, dozens and dozens of trial and error cable routings(disconnecting rerouting, reconnecting, re-layering, etc, etc) I finally ended with a set up that I was reasonably happy with.

     Many parts of the bike were tuned up along the way,,, Charlie saved my ass mailing me new exhaust gaskets,,, and DesmoDuke got me the right size info (36mm ID 44mm OD) for the Viton O rings for the Lafranconi balance pipe,,, Pete was right, totally ridiculous design,,, I've only burned 2-3 tanks of gas through her, and those new O rings are already burnt and gone,,,lol,,, hopefully the exhaust leak is far enough from the engine, that I won't have to worry about burning a valve, running with them as is, until I come up with a better more permanent solution,,, possibly Silicon O Rings?.

     Even with new Dowty washers all around,,, there still seems to be a stubborn leak from the engine drain plug,,, there's something about her marking her territory,lol.

     The bike with the higher bars in place of the clip ons, is reasonably comfortable, the leaning forward position with them, seems to be good at taking tension out of my spine/neck. She is running and handling excellently,,, no other bike I have ever ridden has her composure at high speed,,, She cruises at an indicated 80 mph around big sweepers, with a stable confidence, that none of my other bikes, past or present could ever hope to equal.

     But my alternator is not putting any power out,,, I've come to the conclusion she's running as a total loss system, solely off the battery.

     When I installed the EME Enduralast 450w Permanent Magnet Alternator w Ducati Energia R/R system 3 yrs ago,,, I wasn't looking for extra power,,, I was looking for bullet proof reliability.

     Now that I have a better understanding of electrical sytems, and the minimal power needs, of my gravity fed fuel system, and my points fired ignition bike,,, I really regret installing this system, in which the Energia 363701 R/R has been identified as the weak link.

     Although to be fair, I may have inadvertently hastened the demise of the R/R,,,if that is indeed the problem, which I am assuming at this point it is.

     I installed the R/R in the (EME recommended), stock Diode board location under the seat beside the battery ,,, in hindsight, with a better understanding of the shunt design and the resulting heat, I pobably should have placed it front and center near the horn out in the wind, fwiw.

     EME recommends not using Odyssey batteries with this system,,, I had a new Odyssey in there already, so I left it in there,,, I realize now that the lower resistance of the Odyssey can apparently be poison to the Energia R/R,,, at that time, I thought the non-recommendation of Odysseys, was because the R/R wouldn't put out enough volts to keep the Odyssey at maximum charge,,, so I wired in a charging lead for my CTEK smart charger, and have been charging it between rides,,, I've now read that this Energia R/R by design has been known to self destruct, if you charge the battery without disconnecting the R/R first?

     When I was riding the bike regularly, before my neck went bad a couple of years ago,,, I noticed that some times in really hot conditions, my volt meter would show the charging system to be struggling a bit,,, 11.5V-12.3?,,,instinctively, I would turn off my headlights,,, I now realize that by design, that wasn't the best thing for my hot, struggling shunt system R/R, I should have been doing the opposite, and burning off as much surplus power as possible so the shunt R/R  didn't have to deal with it.

     The very last full ride I had done with her, was on Christmas Day 2015, I was wearing my Gerbings heated gear, and the alternator worked fine,,,plenty of heat & plenty of electrical power. fwiw. The only thing I've changed since then is pulling the fuse for the clock so it wouldn't run the battery down, shouldn't have any effect?

     She's been parked in the garage for 1.5 yrs, so late last fall I took her for a 4 mile ride around the area to warm her up and keep the brakes,fluids etc moving,,, at that time, I noticed that my voltmeter, showed no charging at all,,, then halfway through the ride the VM sprang to life and seemed to settle nicely around high 12.6-13.5?(from memory)

     As a result of all of the above,,, I monitored the electrical performance very closely when I started riding her again 3-4 weeks ago. She ran like a top but it didn't take me long to realize there was something wrong with the charging system.

     My VM only appears to show battery V,,,, whenever I use the turn signals, brake lights(especially the front?) the vm drops voltage and then returns to show battery voltage 12.6-12.9? When I turn the headlight on, the vm drops quite a bit. When I twist the throttle, there is no increase in output,,, just straight battery power indicating on the vm.

     Reading up on it, I figured that it was probably my R/R,,, I thought the 2 yellow wires from the Stator would get hot from generating power and having it blocked at the R/R,,, but both the yellow wires and the R/R seem cool or slightly warm,,, definitely not hot.

     I removed the alternator cover,,, everything appears fine,,, no signs of heat or physical damage,,, the rotor is just slightly uneven sitting inside the stator,,, but I can pass a .010? brass feeler gauge all around the gap,,, doesn't appear to be grounding out.

     I realize that I should be getting a reading of the voltage signal wire to the R/R, but I've got it tapped into a relay fed line on the Big Blue Bosch coils which I had to mount hanging down in the centre of the engine,,, it's a biatch of a location to get close to. I know the signal wire for the R/R should be good switched on battery power, coming from the relay fed coil tap it should be good,,, but now I'm wondering with the coils firing off that circuit, if it is stable enough and might have caused problems?

      I also realize that there are a series of tests I can do on the R/R leads to verify it exactly,,, but all my wires are hard wired,soldered and sealed,,, not an easy task, fwiw.

     Just in case it might have helped, I swapped out the Odyssey battery for the new fully charged Yuasa from the CalVin, with the surface charge burnt off by running the headlight for a short while, I took the following readings with my multi-meter at the battery.

     Battery w ignition off                       12.7v

     Battery w ignition on coil run/off switch off 12.6v

     Battery w igniton on coil run/off switch on   12.4v

     Battery running at idle                       13.1v

     Battery running at 2k rpm                     12.6v

     Battery running at 3k rpm                     12.6v

   
     I then tested the following for continuity,,, appears normal?

     R/R case to GRND(trans case) continuity             ( fwiw I have an additional GRND from the R/R to the engine and the battery neg)     

     Rotor to ground             continuity

     Rotor to Stator frame       continuity

     Yellow Stator wires to each other    no continuity

     Yellow Stator wires to GRND          no continuity

     Yellow Stator wires to Rotor         no continuity

     
     I then took the following AC Voltage readings from the 2 yellow Stator wires with the engine running (seems to be charging fine?)

     idle 1k rpm 20-30 mv (fluctuating)

     2k rpm 70-78 mv (fluctuating)

     
     I'm out of my element, and while I sort through this muddled mess,,,I'm very curious if possibly a Diode/Thyristor? has stuck in full R/R "shunt" mode, bleeding the power off safely,,, is there a way I could test for that  I would love to be able to ride the bike in daytime as a "total loss" system just off the battery,,, for the few remaining weeks of my riding season,,, and then sort out the issue later,,, but I don't want to do that if I'm going to fry the stator,,, any thoughts or input?

     
     If it is the R/R causing problems, from my research so far, it seems that the SHINDENGEN MOSFET FH020AA REGULATOR_RECTIFIER KIT sold by MotoElectrix or roadstercycle is the most reliable/best coolest operating  replacement R/R, thoughts?

     If It is indeed the R/R and I go with the Shindengen Mosfet FH020AA R/R,,, does it run cool enough that I shouldn't have to worry about relocating it from under the seat?

     I really like having a line wired to the battery to charge with my CTEK,,, is the SHINDENGEN durable enough to withstand a charge coming into the battery,,, or should it be disconnected like the Energia is recommended to be, before charging?

      You deserve a prize if you read this far,,,lol.

     TIA

     Kelly

     
     


     
« Last Edit: October 01, 2017, 02:42:03 AM by 80CX100 »
2008 California Vintage
2003 V11 Lemans
2007 Griso 1100
1979 G5 & 1980 Lemans CX100
2010 Suzuki DR650 & 1978 SR500

In a time of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act. George Orwell

Offline pat80flh

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Did you have the 2 yellow wires disconnected?   The stator/rotor should be putting out 50-70 VOLTS of A/C current, which are then rectified(changed to D/C voltage), and regulated to 13.5- 14.2.
  Disconnect the yellow wires, hook a voltmeter to them set to AC, wind it up to 3000 rpm, if you have good ac output, the regulator is bad.

I can't see how charging a battery should hurt a voltage regulator??
 
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Online Old Jock

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Hi Kelly

I'll need to go through the thread some more in detail, no offense but it would help if you stuck to the problem rather than a history of all the other stuff too. Just IMHO short snappy posts tend to get more attention. Could be I'm just getting old and grumpy.

I was going to recommend Shindengen, it's the R/R of choice for the guys I know on the Ducati UK forum, I have one waiting to go into a 1098 come the Winter.

This is interesting and possibly contradicts in part what Roy posted about fairly recently, or perhaps not

Is it this kit?

https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/edl450-altkit.htm

I didn't see on the Endurlast page a warning about AGM batteries, quite the reverse, the warning related to LiFe PO batteries and entirely different technology which can cause problems with shunt regulators, I think it's to do with ease that these batteries can absorb/discharge charge and can cause the regulators to overheat. There has just been a very spirited debate about all this on the Ducati UK forum.

It looks very similar to the Ducati system fitted to later Guzzis like the Sport 1100s etc: I am pretty sure that Roy said on the Sporti's the R/R was a series not shunt regulator. However perhaps the Enduralast is different.

The Alternator is a single phase by the looks of it and Shindengen FH 0020AA is a 3 phase Shunt R/R, it can be wired for single phase operation but I'd check the spec as the increased capacity of the Alternator may exceed its current rating on a single phase   

I'll try to post up again when I either get clarification from you, Roy chips in or I can find a spec for the ratings on the fh0020AA

Not much help really & I agree with pat80flh's post on how to check the alternator

Offline 80CX100

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Did you have the 2 yellow wires disconnected?   The stator/rotor should be putting out 50-70 VOLTS of A/C current, which are then rectified(changed to D/C voltage), and regulated to 13.5- 14.2.
  Disconnect the yellow wires, hook a voltmeter to them set to AC, wind it up to 3000 rpm, if you have good ac output, the regulator is bad.

I can't see how charging a battery should hurt a voltage regulator??

     The yellow wires weren't disconnected,(they are hardwired, soldered & sealed),, I had my multimeter set for AC voltage and took the readings with each probe at the base of the yellow wires where they are connected to the Stator.

     The readings I got with my multimeter set for AC voltage at 1krpm 20-30 & 2krpm 70-78 (mv indicated on the display) seemed in line with documents from EME


     tks

     Kelly
2008 California Vintage
2003 V11 Lemans
2007 Griso 1100
1979 G5 & 1980 Lemans CX100
2010 Suzuki DR650 & 1978 SR500

In a time of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act. George Orwell

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Offline 80CX100

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Hi Kelly

I'll need to go through the thread some more in detail, no offense but it would help if you stuck to the problem rather than a history of all the other stuff too. Just IMHO short snappy posts tend to get more attention. Could be I'm just getting old and grumpy.

I was going to recommend Shindengen, it's the R/R of choice for the guys I know on the Ducati UK forum, I have one waiting to go into a 1098 come the Winter.

This is interesting and possibly contradicts in part what Roy posted about fairly recently, or perhaps not

Is it this kit?

https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/edl450-altkit.htm

I didn't see on the Endurlast page a warning about AGM batteries, quite the reverse, the warning related to LiFe PO batteries and entirely different technology which can cause problems with shunt regulators, I think it's to do with ease that these batteries can absorb/discharge charge and can cause the regulators to overheat. There has just been a very spirited debate about all this on the Ducati UK forum.

It looks very similar to the Ducati system fitted to later Guzzis like the Sport 1100s etc: I am pretty sure that Roy said on the Sporti's the R/R was a series not shunt regulator. However perhaps the Enduralast is different.

The Alternator is a single phase by the looks of it and Shindengen FH 0020AA is a 3 phase Shunt R/R, it can be wired for single phase operation but I'd check the spec as the increased capacity of the Alternator may exceed its current rating on a single phase   

I'll try to post up again when I either get clarification from you, Roy chips in or I can find a spec for the ratings on the fh0020AA

Not much help really & I agree with pat80flh's post on how to check the alternator

     I apologize for the novel,,, I was throwing out all the info I could think of hoping something might be relevant,,,

     The link you provided to EME is the alternator system I have, described as a single phase with 2 yellow wires coming from the stator to the R/R.

     You're right EME recommends not using the Life Po style batteries, but there is also a disclaimer recommending not using Odysseys,,, warranty claims won't be honored if either are used,,,, that information is on their website and in the documentation that I got with the kit.

      I'm just starting to research the Shindengen R/R and learning that there are different styles, not sure exactly which one would be a match for this alternator system.

      tks

      Kelly
2008 California Vintage
2003 V11 Lemans
2007 Griso 1100
1979 G5 & 1980 Lemans CX100
2010 Suzuki DR650 & 1978 SR500

In a time of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act. George Orwell

Online Old Jock

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Just a suggestion that's all, no need to apolgize, I understand the need to explain the history

That's weird that the Odyssey is specifically singled out and yet they recommend an AGM which is what the Odyssey is.

I wonder if there is something specific to that type of battery or if it has a low internal resistance. IMHO they are one of the most reliable batteries on the market and my first choice to install if suitable.

I'm struggling to get a spec for the Shindengen reg/recs

I do know that they make a shunt and series reg/rec both as far as I'm aware both are 3 phase but can be used in a single phase configuration, but you will need to get a spec to see if they can carry the current when used in that configuration

I've also read the Shunt uses MOSFET but I don't think the series does & the series is $$$$$

You could speak to this guy who carries both types

http://roadstercycle.com/index.htm

Hopefully Roy will chime in to help he's the expert on this stuff for sure

I'm not a big fanboy of Euro Moto Electrics heard too many stories and I dislike that they treat their products as state secrets

The Shindnegens on the other hand are THE reg/recs of choice on the Ducati forum

As I said I could have it wrong on the type used I do not know the Euro Moto Electrics set up and I'd like Roy to confirm that the 1100 Spots etc: used a Series and not shunt regulator because it's quite unusual

If the Reg/Rec ever fails on my Spot Shindengen would be my reg/rec of choice if they are suitable for the application

Your Yellow wires are soldered as often the connector on the stator is the weak link and causes many problems after a while the connectors cannot handle the high current and introduce resistance leading to all sorts of problems. My personal preference is an aftermarket high current connector, but each to his own.

Unfortunately you cannot test the alternator, AFAIK, unless you open circuit the output which is why I prefer a high quality connector.

John
« Last Edit: October 01, 2017, 10:29:45 AM by Old Jock »

Offline Kiwi_Roy

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First of all lets establish what we have
As John say's it's a bit confusing

Am I right you have a 1980 LeMans with a permanent magnet alternator as fitted to 2000 era VIIs?
You can't get a system much simpler than that, should be fairly easy to troubleshoot.


An EME 450 alternator, I think that's just the same as the original Guzzi one, may have a little more output.
Energia 363701 is just the standard Ducati Energia series regulator, nothing wrong with those.

What's very important with this setup is you have first of all a good ground on the regulator, I usually recommend a short wire from the regulator case to an engine screw.

Then you have to have a bulletproof voltage signal from the battery to the male pin of the M/Fm plug, thats how the regulator knows what to do. I wouldn't rely on a wire from the ignition switch or the headlight relay for that, that's why the Guzzis fail. Perhaps a relay from the battery to the reference pin, the relay coil can be turned on by ignition.

Is there any way you can post or e-mail your schematic, I'll send you a PM with my address

« Last Edit: October 02, 2017, 06:51:23 PM by Kiwi_Roy »
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Offline Howard R

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I'm going to go a different direction here.  If you really are only seeing millivolts AC at the yellow wires (your numbers sound more appropriate for volts) that says to me that it's one of two things.  Either the R/R is a dead short somewhere, which should show up as heat, smoke, and/or fire, or the alternator is kaput.  My best guess is a shorted stator winding.  Can you get a screwdriver or something (cautiously) close to the rotor (obviously with the engine off) to check the off chance that the rotor has demagnetized?

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Offline Kiwi_Roy

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I'm going to go a different direction here.  If you really are only seeing millivolts AC at the yellow wires
He might be measuring with the meter on DC instead of AC, obviously we need to see 60 Volts AC or more at higher revs I doubt you could loose all the magnetism it seems to generate sometimes, hopefully he will get back soon.

Several times I have had the alternator fail because something interrupted the Voltage feedback to the black wire at regulator, I have even hot wired it to the battery to get home. The headlight reference source is flakey and you don't know if the headlight is off unless it's nighttime. or you stop for gas and the battery hasn't enough grunt to turn the motor because the lights been off.
« Last Edit: October 02, 2017, 06:54:11 PM by Kiwi_Roy »
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Offline 80CX100

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I'm going to go a different direction here.  If you really are only seeing millivolts AC at the yellow wires (your numbers sound more appropriate for volts) that says to me that it's one of two things.  Either the R/R is a dead short somewhere, which should show up as heat, smoke, and/or fire, or the alternator is kaput.  My best guess is a shorted stator winding.  Can you get a screwdriver or something (cautiously) close to the rotor (obviously with the engine off) to check the off chance that the rotor has demagnetized?

Howard

     Sorry I'm so late replying to everyone, I got a bunch of files together in PDF to send Roy and was hoping to convert them to image files to post here for reference for everyone, but I wasn't able to.

     My test of the yellow stator wires were done, with the stator still connected to the R/R, my multimeter was set to measure AC Volts,,, the EME performance data for the alternator's AC voltage is 1k rpm 21.6 2k rpm 43.2 4k rpm 85.1,,,

     The numbers on my test results fluctuated quite a bit on the display, but were in the correct range,,, 1k rpm 20-30 and when revved from 2-3k rpm jumped to 70-78,,, but the display on the screen was mV
 
     I've checked with all sorts of tools, wrenches screw drivers, light feeler gauges,,, I'm NOT seeing any sign of magnetism from the rotor at all.  HHHmmm, I'm googling looking for answers on this issue,,, curious about anyone's thoughts or input.

     If the magnetism is gone from the rotor,,, the optimist in me,,, wants to just top up the battery and ride it total loss without fears of blowing my stator and fix the issue when the snow hits the pavement,,,lol. Any thoughts or concerns from anyone on this angle?

     tks

      Kelly
« Last Edit: October 03, 2017, 11:01:53 PM by 80CX100 »
2008 California Vintage
2003 V11 Lemans
2007 Griso 1100
1979 G5 & 1980 Lemans CX100
2010 Suzuki DR650 & 1978 SR500

In a time of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act. George Orwell

Offline blackcat

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Wish I could help you, but I'm not familiar with that electrical system. I had a problem with the stock system on my CX and I ran it for almost year as a total loss system before I found the hairline crack in the brush holders, which was just enough to keep the system from working right. And I only lost one Odyssey battery in the entire year of use.
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Offline 80CX100

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Hey Roy,    Tks very much for taking time away from your new Griso to help me out.

     I've shared with you but not the rest of the world,,, when I ran into electrical problems getting my bike going a few years ago, it was Roy's knowledge, patience and guidance that enabled me to get her going and running like a top,,, sincere kudos and tks from one guzzisti to another.

First of all lets establish what we have
As John say's it's a bit confusing

Am I right you have a 1980 LeMans with a permanent magnet alternator as fitted to 2000 era VIIs?
You can't get a system much simpler than that, should be fairly easy to troubleshoot.

My 1980 Lemans CX100 is basically a Lemans ll, the alternator system I installed is this https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/edl450-altkit.htm


An EME 450 alternator, I think that's just the same as the original Guzzi one, may have a little more output.
Energia 363701 is just the standard Ducati Energia series regulator, nothing wrong with those.

What's very important with this setup is you have first of all a good ground on the regulator, I usually recommend a short wire from the regulator case to an engine screw.

     For grounds I have a wire from the R/R case to battery negative and had seperate ground wire to the chassis, which I have relocated to a bolt on the transmission case

Then you have to have a bulletproof voltage signal from the battery to the male pin of the M/Fm plug, thats how the regulator knows what to do. I wouldn't rely on a wire from the ignition switch or the headlight relay for that, that's why the Guzzis fail. Perhaps a relay from the battery to the reference pin, the relay coil can be turned on by ignition.

     For my voltage signal wire on the R/R it is connected to a spare shared positive terminal on one of the Bosch Big Blue coils,,, this coil is supplied battery power by a relay switched on with the ignition.

Is there any way you can post or e-mail your schematic, I'll send you a PM with my address

    I pm'd you some info on the alternator system, R/R,performance data, I have them if anyone else wants them, but I wasn't able to convert them to image files to upload here,,, I sent you the schematic,,, and I should be able to post it here as well.

     Just in case you missed it in my reply above,,, it looks like my Permanent Magnet Rotor isn't so permanent,,, there's no indication of magnetism on the rotor fwiw
   
    tks

    Kelly




« Last Edit: October 03, 2017, 11:02:37 PM by 80CX100 »
2008 California Vintage
2003 V11 Lemans
2007 Griso 1100
1979 G5 & 1980 Lemans CX100
2010 Suzuki DR650 & 1978 SR500

In a time of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act. George Orwell

Offline 80CX100

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That's weird that the Odyssey is specifically singled out and yet they recommend an AGM which is what the Odyssey is.

I wonder if there is something specific to that type of battery or if it has a low internal resistance. IMHO they are one of the most reliable batteries on the market and my first choice to install if suitable.


John

         You're apparently right,,, in some of the forums I've read, comments have been attributed to EME, that it is indeed the lower internal resistance of the Odysseys which causes problems with the Energia R/R, fwiw.

         tks

         Kelly
2008 California Vintage
2003 V11 Lemans
2007 Griso 1100
1979 G5 & 1980 Lemans CX100
2010 Suzuki DR650 & 1978 SR500

In a time of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act. George Orwell

Offline 80CX100

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     OK True Confessions,,,, I'll officially wear the dunce cap and sit in the corner for a few days,,,lol.

     Strike my previous comments re the "no magnetism" on the rotor,,, the exposed outside edge for the first 1/2" that I had been touching with steel isn't magnetized,,, but when I slipped a feeler gauge all the way down the side,,, I definitely still have magnetism,doh.

      Kelly
2008 California Vintage
2003 V11 Lemans
2007 Griso 1100
1979 G5 & 1980 Lemans CX100
2010 Suzuki DR650 & 1978 SR500

In a time of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act. George Orwell

Offline 80CX100

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Hey Roy,     They're forecasting a few days of rain coming up, so I'll have time take a better look at it with fresh eyes. Now that I know my rotor still looks good, I have more confidence in the readings I took from my stator wires,,, I'll check it with another analog multimeter, see if I can shed some light on the the confusion over the mV scale displayed, on my digital MM.



What's very important with this setup is you have first of all a good ground on the regulator, I usually recommend a short wire from the regulator case to an engine screw.

What do you think of my set up with 2 grounds, one to the neg bat terminal & one to the transmission case?

     

Then you have to have a bulletproof voltage signal from the battery to the male pin of the M/Fm plug, thats how the regulator knows what to do. I wouldn't rely on a wire from the ignition switch or the headlight relay for that, that's why the Guzzis fail. Perhaps a relay from the battery to the reference pin, the relay coil can be turned on by ignition.

I've read most of your posts, here and V11Lemans.com. I've learned that sometimes the relays aren't as efficient as they could be,,, I'll pull the tank and run the fuel remotely so I can get to my coil tap that's feeding the signal wire and find out what's really going on in there as far as voltage. I'll be chasing wires in there as well looking for issues.


to be continued,,,lol

Tks

Kelly
2008 California Vintage
2003 V11 Lemans
2007 Griso 1100
1979 G5 & 1980 Lemans CX100
2010 Suzuki DR650 & 1978 SR500

In a time of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act. George Orwell

Offline Kiwi_Roy

  • Gaggle Hero
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  • Posts: 9796
  • Location: New Westminster BC
The schematic you posted 2 posts back is of the Bosch alternator.
I want to see how you have the Ducati Energy and EME alternator wired and more specifically how you feed the black wire of the regulator
Without 12 Volts on the black wire the regulator does nothing, it doesn't turn on to transfer the power from the alternator to the battery, it's critical for the operation.
Actually while you are troubleshooting add a small 12V lamp from the black wire to chassis, it will tell you if anything is amiss, it should be on full brightness as long as the key is on and you
can safely tell at a glance while riding

How do you have the alternator red wires connected to the battery, via a fuse or any other device or direct to the post, any connectors of sockets, The VIIs have a habit of melting the plastic
on the 30 Amp fuse, inspect for discolouration.
72 Eldorado
17 V7iii Special
76 Convert
Half a V9 Roamer

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