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Did you have the 2 yellow wires disconnected? The stator/rotor should be putting out 50-70 VOLTS of A/C current, which are then rectified(changed to D/C voltage), and regulated to 13.5- 14.2. Disconnect the yellow wires, hook a voltmeter to them set to AC, wind it up to 3000 rpm, if you have good ac output, the regulator is bad. I can't see how charging a battery should hurt a voltage regulator??
Hi KellyI'll need to go through the thread some more in detail, no offense but it would help if you stuck to the problem rather than a history of all the other stuff too. Just IMHO short snappy posts tend to get more attention. Could be I'm just getting old and grumpy.I was going to recommend Shindengen, it's the R/R of choice for the guys I know on the Ducati UK forum, I have one waiting to go into a 1098 come the Winter.This is interesting and possibly contradicts in part what Roy posted about fairly recently, or perhaps notIs it this kit?https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/edl450-altkit.htmI didn't see on the Endurlast page a warning about AGM batteries, quite the reverse, the warning related to LiFe PO batteries and entirely different technology which can cause problems with shunt regulators, I think it's to do with ease that these batteries can absorb/discharge charge and can cause the regulators to overheat. There has just been a very spirited debate about all this on the Ducati UK forum.It looks very similar to the Ducati system fitted to later Guzzis like the Sport 1100s etc: I am pretty sure that Roy said on the Sporti's the R/R was a series not shunt regulator. However perhaps the Enduralast is different.The Alternator is a single phase by the looks of it and Shindengen FH 0020AA is a 3 phase Shunt R/R, it can be wired for single phase operation but I'd check the spec as the increased capacity of the Alternator may exceed its current rating on a single phase I'll try to post up again when I either get clarification from you, Roy chips in or I can find a spec for the ratings on the fh0020AANot much help really & I agree with pat80flh's post on how to check the alternator
I'm going to go a different direction here. If you really are only seeing millivolts AC at the yellow wires
I'm going to go a different direction here. If you really are only seeing millivolts AC at the yellow wires (your numbers sound more appropriate for volts) that says to me that it's one of two things. Either the R/R is a dead short somewhere, which should show up as heat, smoke, and/or fire, or the alternator is kaput. My best guess is a shorted stator winding. Can you get a screwdriver or something (cautiously) close to the rotor (obviously with the engine off) to check the off chance that the rotor has demagnetized?Howard
First of all lets establish what we have As John say's it's a bit confusingAm I right you have a 1980 LeMans with a permanent magnet alternator as fitted to 2000 era VIIs?You can't get a system much simpler than that, should be fairly easy to troubleshoot.My 1980 Lemans CX100 is basically a Lemans ll, the alternator system I installed is this https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/edl450-altkit.htmAn EME 450 alternator, I think that's just the same as the original Guzzi one, may have a little more output.Energia 363701 is just the standard Ducati Energia series regulator, nothing wrong with those.What's very important with this setup is you have first of all a good ground on the regulator, I usually recommend a short wire from the regulator case to an engine screw. For grounds I have a wire from the R/R case to battery negative and had seperate ground wire to the chassis, which I have relocated to a bolt on the transmission caseThen you have to have a bulletproof voltage signal from the battery to the male pin of the M/Fm plug, thats how the regulator knows what to do. I wouldn't rely on a wire from the ignition switch or the headlight relay for that, that's why the Guzzis fail. Perhaps a relay from the battery to the reference pin, the relay coil can be turned on by ignition. For my voltage signal wire on the R/R it is connected to a spare shared positive terminal on one of the Bosch Big Blue coils,,, this coil is supplied battery power by a relay switched on with the ignition. Is there any way you can post or e-mail your schematic, I'll send you a PM with my address I pm'd you some info on the alternator system, R/R,performance data, I have them if anyone else wants them, but I wasn't able to convert them to image files to upload here,,, I sent you the schematic,,, and I should be able to post it here as well. Just in case you missed it in my reply above,,, it looks like my Permanent Magnet Rotor isn't so permanent,,, there's no indication of magnetism on the rotor fwiw tks Kelly
That's weird that the Odyssey is specifically singled out and yet they recommend an AGM which is what the Odyssey is. I wonder if there is something specific to that type of battery or if it has a low internal resistance. IMHO they are one of the most reliable batteries on the market and my first choice to install if suitable.John
What's very important with this setup is you have first of all a good ground on the regulator, I usually recommend a short wire from the regulator case to an engine screw.What do you think of my set up with 2 grounds, one to the neg bat terminal & one to the transmission case? Then you have to have a bulletproof voltage signal from the battery to the male pin of the M/Fm plug, thats how the regulator knows what to do. I wouldn't rely on a wire from the ignition switch or the headlight relay for that, that's why the Guzzis fail. Perhaps a relay from the battery to the reference pin, the relay coil can be turned on by ignition.I've read most of your posts, here and V11Lemans.com. I've learned that sometimes the relays aren't as efficient as they could be,,, I'll pull the tank and run the fuel remotely so I can get to my coil tap that's feeding the signal wire and find out what's really going on in there as far as voltage. I'll be chasing wires in there as well looking for issues.