Pages: 1 ... 3 4 [5] 6 7 ... 10
41
« Last post by Wayne Orwig on September 26, 2023, 01:12:03 PM »
I need to figure out how to get mine up on Thingiverse.
42
« Last post by Vecchio Lupo on September 26, 2023, 01:00:32 PM »
I don't know I currently have a Dynotek Dyna III electronic ignition and Dyna coils. I have the remnants of wiring and an empty space on the right side that looks like the module used to be there. Now I have the Dyna ignition module under the tank. Regardless...the closest wiring diagram I could find shows exactly the wires I have/ had. Perhaps I do need pictures for my own train of thought. I can't imagine that a California III and a SP II are that different schematics. my regulator is a Ducati electric part, I thought it would have been Magnetti Marelli. here is another diagram (this one is a 1988 California 1000) it also shows the yellow/black wire from tach to ECU (or whatever its called) my yellow/black is connected to a negative terminal on the Dyna coil and that's it. 
43
« Last post by tcunnien on September 26, 2023, 11:07:51 AM »
My father suffered from severe vertigo attacks that was later diagnosed as Ménière disease. It was something he just had to learn to live with at the time. It was the main reason he had to give up riding motorcycles in his early sixties. His bike at the time was a Harley XLCR.
44
« Last post by John A on September 26, 2023, 11:02:17 AM »
I have a prescription for Meclizine that is a pill that can be chewed or swallowed. Snot supposed to be used while operating a boat or machinery according to the label.I get it from the VA. I keep some with, especially on the bike. It helps with vertigo, a most unpleasant malady that prevents me from getting medical clearance for a pilot certificate.
45
« Last post by Vecchio Lupo on September 26, 2023, 10:49:22 AM »
 my shop manual calls it an ECU, but its an ignition module, Im using a 1990 carbed SP II shop manual and it shows the yellow black wire from coil to ECU which is mounted next to the regulator/rectifier under the right side cover. If I had a spare tach, Id wire it up and test it, but Im flush with speedos, Ive two extra, so if anybody wants to trade for an electronic tach????
46
"Electronic Control Unit"? Mine doesn't have any such thing as far as I know.
47
« Last post by PeteS on September 26, 2023, 10:40:30 AM »
Safe to say its not original but that can be a good thing assuming you want to ride it and not use it as living room art.
Main thing I would want to know is what are the heads like. Are they 850 LeMans heads, CX heads or modified CX heads.
Suspension and seat upgraded, maybe the motor too. Ask if the dealer can put you in touch with the previous owner.
Pete
48
« Last post by Vecchio Lupo on September 26, 2023, 10:34:25 AM »
****UPDATE*****
I feel bad bringing up an old thread,....but, I like to read updates and I think others do also.
On the lazy tach issue, my wiring diagram shows a yellow/black negative wire going from the tach to the neg on a coil, with a jumper to the Electronic Control Unit. I traced the yellow/black from tach to coil (good continuity) but the jumper over to the ECU had been cut and was gone, so was the OEM ECU. I then realized the bike has a Dynatek Electronic ignition and Dyna coils. There appears to be no mention of the yellow/black wire in Dynotek instructions....doe s anybody know what Im talking about? I could add pics but I don't think it would help. BTW this is a carbureted bike with 30k indicated mileage.
the popping is getting better with running in and such, so Im going to observe. The lazy volt meter is just Italian, and that's OK.
Last: the BMW Airhead guys bristle when I say the R bikes and the Tonti bikes are very similar with many of the same character flaws, but I think the brain trust here is a bit stronger, so ..... I have a 77 R100/7 T, outfitted as a RT with Hannigan fairing, Krauser bags, Mayer saddle and apart from the stupid ATE brakes I love it. It has always smoked under load, right plug brown/tan, and left one a bit sooty no matter what. Used to be the smoke would clear off with heat and mileage unless pulling hard uphill. the Airhead consensus is, collapsed rings that heat up and work better after a bit. I just checked 150 psi both sides (crappy old old compression guage) 29k miles, I have every reason to believe that's correct considering the conditions it was in from sitting when I acquired it from the 2nd owner, who never got it to run.
I was going to leave well enough alone and repair as needed, but Im shipping the bike to Stuttgart Germany next month, to a friend, where I will fly over 3 or 4 times a year to ride around for a week or two (courtesy of US Air Force Space A) so. Should I slap a new set of standard rings in her, or wait for crop dusting to start and do a bore over size???
Sorry for the long post.
49
What country are you in for starters? Edit: I see you're in Colorado. Doesn't hurt to add this information to your profile. The US never got the Le Mans II, our version was the CX100, which was the same chassis as the rest-of-the-world bike, but with the engine from the 1000SP. Le Mans II/CX100 should have a rectangular headlight, quarter fairing and lowers, so that one have been modified a bit. Instrument housing isn't correct either - backdated to '76-'78 850 Le Mans type. This is what a (mostly) stock Le Mans II looks like.  I'd want to make sure it's really a Le Mans II/CX100 and not a tarted up 1000SP before I bought it. Modified as it is hurts value IMO, so $5k at best if it's really a Le Mans/CX100.
50
« Last post by bigbikerrick on September 26, 2023, 10:17:07 AM »
The front suspension on it is very cool, and innovative! What a gorgeous machine.  Rick.
Pages: 1 ... 3 4 [5] 6 7 ... 10
|
Recent Posts