How to remove EV ignition switch?

[flower_king001]

Hi,

 Having some issues with my '98 EV and wish to remove and clean the ignition switch. Can someone give me the steps in doing so?

Thanks, Brian

[fotoguzzi]

If I remember right those are tamper proof bolts so you have to cut a slot for a  screw driver into the head? With a dremmel tool maybe.

[wavedog]

Or just ride it until the tamper proof fasteners vibrate loose, fall off and the switch falls down into the area between the triple clamps and steering head. That was fun.

[flower_king001]

If I remember right those are tamper proof bolts so you have to cut a slot for a  screw driver into the head? With a dremmel tool maybe.

I saw this post from sometime back:

https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=94262.0

To get the assembly out I figure one must unbolt headlight and move out of the way and then remove the two Phillips screws holding the unit to the top triple tree clamp?


Thanks

[Chuck in Indiana]

Yes, although they "might" be hardened anti tamper screws. I don't know.. but if they are, this job just got a lot more difficult. You should be able to see them with a light and mirror. Report back.
I had to pull the switch on the MZ (same Zadi switch) and it had the anti tamper screws buried to where you couldn't get a cutoff blade on a dremel in to slot them. Had to pull the triple and laboriously tap with a punch and hammer a few million  times.

[Kiwi_Roy]

Yes the EV switches are just two Phillips screws
Make sure when you put it back that the wires are not flexing at the solder joints or they will snap off pretty quick.
I like to attach them to the rear cover somehow.
The loom should bend gently over several inches as you move the forks from lock to lock.
You can service the switch in situ if you disconnect the battery negative or unplug it on the left hand side under the tank and do on the bench, watch for the little contacts and springs that pop out.

Air your other issues, there's many on here with EV experience.

[oldbike54]

 A gram of C-4 will normally do the job .

 Dusty

[JoeB]

When I did mine I removed the headlight and as Roy suggests removed the two phillips head screws holding the base of the switch. This separates it from the top barrel where the key is inserted. A brief period of the noted monkey mating ritual dance will help when trying to access screws.
Later on one of my first rides, like wavedog, I found the whole unit will drop out. As stated there are two bolts holding the unit in. On mine I think only one was tamper proof. They both worked their way loose and were easily unscrewed and replaced. My keen diagnostic skills  noted the ignition key sinking down as I was riding along.

[flower_king001]

Thanks Joe...most appreciated!

When I did mine I removed the headlight and as Roy suggests removed the two phillips head screws holding the base of the switch. This separates it from the top barrel where the key is inserted. A brief period of the noted monkey mating ritual dance will help when trying to access screws.
Later on one of my first rides, like wavedog, I found the whole unit will drop out. As stated there are two bolts holding the unit in. On mine I think only one was tamper proof. They both worked their way loose and were easily unscrewed and replaced. My keen diagnostic skills  noted the ignition key sinking down as I was riding along.

[flower_king001]

Most appreciated!

Yes the EV switches are just two Phillips screws
Make sure when you put it back that the wires are not flexing at the solder joints or they will snap off pretty quick.
I like to attach them to the rear cover somehow.
The loom should bend gently over several inches as you move the forks from lock to lock.
You can service the switch in situ if you disconnect the battery negative or unplug it on the left hand side under the tank and do on the bench, watch for the little contacts and springs that pop out.

Air your other issues, there's many on here with EV experience.

[JoeB]

If you do remove the headlight mark a line or couple dots with a sharpie like marker from the bracket to the light where it bolts on.
On reassembly line it up and you should be close to original alignment for your light beams.
Not an in-depth technical tip but may save some time.

[john fish]

Got the bottom of the switch off. What next?  Do I disassemble the bottom and clean it? 

Do I have to remove and.clean the top part tgat the key goes in to?

[Chuck in Indiana]

Got the bottom of the switch off. What next?  Do I disassemble the bottom and clean it? 
Yes.

Do I have to remove and.clean the top part tgat the key goes in to?
Don't bother.

[John A]

The part you want is on the end of the loom.( Edit, I just checked the picture, I was thinking of an older switch ). Mark the housing. Fold up the tabs. Be careful to capture any springs and balls as you separate it. Inside you will find the sontacts you will clean. Snot a big deal after you’ve done one. Newer switch:  Push in the plastic tabs while pulling the two halves apart.

[John Croucher]

Loosen the two top fork pinch screws. Take the screw out of the steering shaft, pull the top triple tree up and off with everything connected and turn over and lay on gas tank on a soft blanket.  Remove screws on bottom of switch. Take a picture so you know the correct order of the contacts.  Clean and re assembly.

[Matteo]

If I remember right those are tamper proof bolts so you have to cut a slot for a  screw driver into the head? With a dremmel tool maybe.

That's how I got mine out

[elrealistico]

Maybe a spritz of Deoxit?

[dguzzi]

  Even Lucas likes DeOxit!