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General question:I have much more automotive FI diagnosis experience than with cycles. With automotive FI, since 1996, the ECU stores error codes for any circuit-related problems.Don't motorcycle ECUs store problem codes?
I measured the resistance across the three leads (on the sensor side), but none of them show current- they are all infinite ohms. Should I see 680 ohms across two of the leads?
'Twas the Keebler Elves , they be wicked little devils . Dusty
Thanks for all your comments- they were very helpful and I think (maybe) I have this figured out. The wiring diagram, comments about the sensor and some reading on the EFI document were very helpful, so thanks for all that. I made some LEDs and hooked them to the pins as Roy suggested and the ignition (52) stayed lit while the pump/injector/coils (relay 50, pin 87) flashed, cycled the pump then went off. The injector relay (50) LED would not come back on when I turned the motor over. Both went out as expected when the kill switch was turned off.
FYI, the oil is likely leaking *through* the sensor, not from the O ring. The fix is to use some of that locktite sealant on the face of the sensor itself so it soaks into the unit. These sensors are not meant to be used in a wet oil environment but Guzzi does it anyway. So they leak oil.
Thanks for all your comments- they were very helpful and I think (maybe) I have this figured out. The wiring diagram, comments about the sensor and some reading on the EFI document were very helpful, so thanks for all that. I made some LEDs and hooked them to the pins as Roy suggested and the ignition (52) stayed lit while the pump/injector/coils (relay 50, pin 87) flashed, cycled the pump then went off. The injector relay (50) LED would not come back on when I turned the motor over. Both went out as expected when the kill switch was turned off.I also checked the plugs (dry) and sprayed a bit of starter in the intake (nothing).So, I cleaned and cleaned the connections, measured and remeasured the resistance of the sensor- all good.Then, when I took the sensor out for the second time, I noticed that one of the cogs was dead nuts on center in the hole. So, I used my depth gauge to measure the distance between the machined face of the block and the tooth, and a vernier to measure the sensor reach- they gave a difference of 2.3-2.6 mm.The sensor had two shims- one thick and one thin and an o-ring. I removed the thinner 0.6 mm shim, put it all back together and it fired up on the first revolution. But! It was running fine a month ago! Did someone break into my house and put an extra shim in the phase sensor as a practical joke? Did my crankshaft shrink? Aliens? Well, I'll take it out for a short ride tomorrow- I have some more parts to take care of.Thanks, ya'll.JRT
Yeah , the little bastiges are everywhere , they get in your hair , in your clothes hamper , everywhere . During their rut you can't go anywhere W/O shooing them off the roads , a mating pair has taken up residence in our utility closet , won't even go into the trauma that is causing our cat . Dusty
This might not be of much help, but...You messed with the sensor. That means you messed with the wires. Maybe there is a bad connection? Next time it doesn't start. Wiggle the sensor wire, turn the bars, ect..I'm also assuming that by it didn't start, you mean it just cranked all you wanted but did not start/run. Right? Tom
Well, it did it again. It's something intermittent that I haven't found. Maybe a broken wire? I cannot feel it if it is. Maybe the kill switch? But the computer is still getting power, so I don't think so. It didn't start this morning when I was going to take it for a ride, so I pulled the sensor out....again....and there was a very small amount of swarf on it- so I cleaned it. Measured again- it is 29.0 +/- .1 mm from the exterior block surface to the phonic wheel. The sensor...I think it is 29.4 mm or so, so it definitely needs a spacer. Put it back together and it fired right up. So I drove it around the block. Parked. Then it didn't start. Then the next try it did. G**d**n gremlins. Anyone know where to get a Magneti SEN 8I3? I looked, but cannot find one.
So what was your handy dandy LED telling you while this was going on?I never had any luck trying to measure the depth and subtracting the length, try my method with JB Quick or other fast setting substance, stick a blob to the tip then bolt it in place with a tooth centred in the hole.After it's had time to set=up remove it again and measure the thickness of the blob with a vernier caliper. The JB Quick will not stick to the cog because it has a film of oil on it.http://www.dpguzzi.com/efiman.pdf Page 12/13The gap should be 0.6 - 1.2 mm
Or you can use one of these or make one and get it accurate without the risk of JB weld or plasticine dropping in the engine.Ciao
Modeling clay works to measure gaps, too.Could this be temperature related?Could it be a coil failure?
Ebay for like $40usd. They are a common sensor. I bought 2 direct from China who are the only ones that still make them these days I think for $10usd each. You can still buy the oem old stock for $175usd I think but the Chinese ones look high quality and have worked totally fine on my engine. I only bought 2 because the shipping was $15usd at the time for 1 and the same for 2 so I bought a spare. The $40 ones will be the same Chinese repros as mine.Ciao
The thought occurred to me. If it were a coil failure, the LED that indicates power to the pump/coils/injectors (50) would be lit. And there are two coils...I think, so the chance of them both failing at the same time is slim.
Thanks- I'll look into that. I tried various auto parts stores online, but found nothing. And...I'll have to make up a tool like you posted. I like that kind of thing.