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First, fix the battery. You can't do any reliable fault finding without a good battery. Have yours load-tested & recharged, or replaced. It could well be your problem.
Bat tree..Takes a charge but not holding it…slowly draining while riding until no go..i had a bike do that. I left the turn signal on, next town over it died. Wait 15 mins and the battery recovered just enough to start, but several miles later, konkUnless it’s the charging system not doing it’s job, in which case I’ve heard of people getting home from a rally by stopping at walwart every few hours and exchanging the now dead battery with a fresh one…neat trick
The 750 is tough on batteries because there's a parasitic drain, even when the bike is shut off. Most late model cars and bikes have this, but the Breva and V7 were ahead of their time in getting this fault early on.[/quoteEven if your battery is fine, take note of this. As little as 3 weeks and it's dead.#2. Side stand switch. Mine was never problematic until it suddenly died in the middle of nowhere on dusk. Fortunately remembered previous people on W.G. mentioning this. Felt underneath and a large rock had taken out the wires. The one that shorts things out was still attached but with about an inch of exposed copper which had shorted things out. It can be as little as the sidestand being a bit stiff and dry and allowing to go to ground. Regular maintenance should include lubing of the sidestand.
The 750 is tough on batteries because there's a parasitic drain, even when the bike is shut off. Most late model cars and bikes have this, but the Breva and V7 were ahead of their time in getting this fault early on.
I think this is the schematic.https://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2004_750_Breva.gifLearn how to hot wire the starter solenoid Brown yellow wire to the hot terminal of the solenoid then at least you should be able to spin the motor over.Brevas have always been prone to Startus Interrupts caused by a weak feed to the start relay but I have no clue why it stopped while running, perhaps a failure of the RPM sensor dropped out the Main Injection relay, I often advocate connecting a small lamp to that as a troubleshooting aid
Sounds like the battery is getting weak. Not the first time that a fairly new battery craps out. Hopefully the battery will solve your problems.My HD goes through batteries. Morning start just fine. A few hours later, just fine. Rode about 1/2 hour and stopped at a store for about 10 minutes. Cranked, but not as fast as normal but not slow. No start. Called AAA, hooked up jump box and 2 revolutions it was running. Got home. Turned off then on to start the bike, started right up. Waited about 15 minutes, no start again. New battery on order.Tom
Question:Just curious,What does the Bank Angle sensor do ?What does the T Head Sensor do ?
Bank angle sensors are also known as Tip Over sensors, since they are designed to tell the ECM to cut fuel and ignition in the event of a crash/drop. As such they must be installed physically facing the right direction (usually marked UP or something like that).T head sounds like Temperature Head, so my guess is the cylinder head temperature sensor, an input used by the ECM in fuel mapping to determine if the engine is cold or at operating temperature.
Ok.My question is: I had new battery only last summer/season.I am surprised that battery lasted only one year. What are your thoughts/experiences?btw, I have ordered a new battery, and will know after I install if this solves that problem.
I’m following the voltage carefully on an new battery myself after experiencing a shot battery after only 2 years on a 2007 Nevada. My previous routine was charging a battery once a month was fine on a big block, just by starting and riding it. That routine stopped working on this small block. I’d regularly roll the bike out and cliclicliclic…nothing. Apparently charging or riding it every 2-3 weeks is what seems to be needed. I use a battery tender brand at 750 milliamperes. Plugging it in at the end of a ride it still goes into charging mode (surprise!) and ups the battery to 13.8 volts, then goes into a resting state. I wouldn’t think it needed a charge after a long ride, but there it is..I’ve not heard of startus interuptous on the smallblock breva..definitely had it on a cal3
This is the video I used to fix Startus Interuptus. Made a huge difference.I also carry a spare relay with me at all times on the bike. Some could evidently prove problematical.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gBfF2-K0KOw&t=155sedit; this won't help your bike stopping at the lights but makes a hang of a difference getting it going again.
I had this fix in place already before this problem occurred.This problem occurred with this fix in place already.So, there is something more going on in my case. Thanks for the link though.If I am going to keep the bike for long, I will seriously consider reducing the load on the new battery. ( which I have ordered and am waiting for delivery )Will be a interesting/fun experiment to see if that helps in having to replace battery so soon.My idea is/are:1. Replace the current hogging halogen head bulbs with LED, maybe leave the turn signal bulbs alone.2. Have a small Lithium battery from handheld cordless power tools, separately to run the headlights only.Lets see how it goes..
Sounds like a charging system problem we had on a 2013 v7.New rectifier was the fix.
Wasn't the usual problem with the 2013's (and 14's) OVERcharging?You're not wrong that could kill batteries too. OP - if you haven't it would be smart to perform a running voltage output check (meter across battery terminals, rev bike into operating range, make sure voltage is 13.something to 14.something range. Some say 15 V is ok sometimes, but that's getting high. 15+ will kill a battery over time.