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regulator has failed (diagnosis by bike electrician ) and I'm wondering if there are substitutes for the MG item and cheaper. I'll also contact Pete at Bungendore for suggestions
Yes there are, just check you have a single phase alternator (two yellow wires)then Google Guzzi Voltage Regulator. They changed later on to a three phase (three yellow wires)The V7 has a permanent magnet alternator (no rotor windings)ShindengenDucati EnergiaElectrosport
Yes KR it's a two yellow wire one. The V7III has 3 wires and a Chinese Shindengen regulator.Getting the regulator out is not easy.I know, I had to change the stator on my V7III when it quit charging, I got quite good at it.It goes to two plugs under the front of the tank and while the black 4 pin plug was easy to separate, the white/yellow (or maybe off white) one didn't want to come apart. (I was going to pinch the reg off my old Racer but couldn't get this plug apart so abandoned that idea.)Next. Getting that "quick" release fuel line off the tank is an art form. Not sure I could repeat what i did to free it.someone posted the trick on here, unplug the pumps electrics first then try to start it that bleeds off the pressure that was making the QR hard to press.Next . Getting the two plugs on the end of the regulator free is difficult. In the 45 degree triangle where the two bottom rails come up and meet the horizontal frame rails, is a plastic guard designed to stop water spraying up and it extends back on the horizontal under the tank. This makes getting the plugs down through the gap very difficult. I may take to it with a dremel and do a cutout. The technique seems to be - use a long screwdriver topush the clutch cable clear. Get the black plug through first and then use moderate force to get the big white one through.After all this (potentially expensive if you damage the QR fuel plug) it doesn't seem a great idea to repeat the performance with my good Racer just to cannabalize the regulator.Mal is currently out of action with a detached retina (and is 800kms away) but it didn't matter much, because even he says that success in getting that QR hose off is very random
Can you clarify.Thunderbikes in Perth have a Guzzi regulatorIs the MG one still liable to overcharge or charge at a higher voltage than 14.4.I'd wait for a mosfet but with freight and $conversion, and then 10% GST (import tax ), it would end up costing the same as a local MG unit.
thanks for that Kev.It's not the battery because it's a new one and i had it load tested after getting marooned at Tuena when it did go flat, but this was because there was leakage from the battery because of the faulty alternator. Instead of .08 it was .367 (I think). battery is a YUASAI don't like the idea of buying an MG regulator but it seems that I have very limited choices. Mosfet is not available here and shipping from the US is very expensive. The N......... one is available but is a three wire and requires some soldering. So today (Wed ) I went for an 80km ride and it started easily numerous times. Why it wouldn't start on Tuesday is a mystery. I am going to lift the tank and check that the relays are all seated properly. Apart from this, there seems little else to check.The regulator would be coming up from Motociclo and John (who is highly regarded in the MG fraternity) said that 15v charging is not a problem . Everything I read here suggests otherwise but as I said above, replacement choices are limited. MGs are thin on the ground here and the parts wholesaler on the Eastern seaboard (Peter Stevens) is not very intersted in stocking parts. Mario at Thunderbikes in Perth is much better.Anyway, I'm off on a 1000km round trip to the Inverally rally tomorrow so I hope there's no more issues it's actually a 2013 Special.
Voltage on battery poles with engine speed always between 3000 - 5000 RPM∑ Start the engine, after about one minute of operating bring the speed to 3000-5000 RPM,then measure with a tester the voltage at the battery poles that must always be between13V and 15V. Otherwise, if the correct operation of the alternator has already been checked,replace the alternator.
So would a North American spec, 2014 V7 (racer) have these voltage regular issues as well or was it relegated to the first year of the single throttle body bikes (2013 in North America).If the 2014 potentially has this issue, is there an easy way to check? I do have a multimeter. I have no clue how to use it or what I'm checking for.ThanksJames
Yes many did.Checking is easy. Connect the meter to the battery, start and warm the motor. Check DC voltage at the battery with the motor running at speed (4000-6000 rpm).You want it to be 15V or less. You really prefer less. 14-.14.5v is perfect.
Just checked mine. At the battery, using a cheap multimeter, during idle it's between 14.3 and 14.6 as it wouldn't stay stead on one number. At a fairly steady 3,000 rpm it's 15.3 and held there and stayed at 15.3 up to 4,000 rpm. I didn't go higher than 4,000 rpm as it was pretty loud and my wife was on a work call in the house. If this bike is being used for short trips (15km at a time at most) is this something I'll need address right away or is the sense or urgency more if you are taking long highway trips?Any thoughts on replacing it with a factory Guzzi part or is the aftermarket the only way to go?For what it's worth, I don't mind having to replace batteries every few years if this is going to be the only issue. If we are talking about blowing up ECU's (like I've read on other forums), then it's more a concern for me.Has anyone used this one?https://rmstator.com/en_us/mosfet-voltage-regulator-rectifier-for-moto-guzzi-california-vintage-1100-nevada-750-v7-special-750-2006-2014Is it a direct bolt in with no snipping of plugs, crimping/soldering or fabrication of baseplates to make it fit?James
Rather than start a new thread I thought Iíd try a semi-hijack of this one. New to me 2010 V7 Cafe Classic. Stranded me on the first ride home from work. I found the battery, though new from seller, was too dead to permit running. I found a bad connector from the stator and cleaned that up and made sure it was Ďproperí. Then I added a voltmeter so I could monitor things. Itís wired to a switched side of the fuse block. Hereís what I see on the voltmeter:-key on engine off ~12-12.4-idle is about the same, though it may rise-2k or above is ~13-anytime brake light is on voltage drops about one volt, which means at a stop light idling its high 11s-when I hit the horn it drops ~1.5 volts from wherever it wasIt seems itíll be fine since itís usually 13 volts or thereabouts when riding. But, it is concerning. Thoughts?
Yes KR it's a two yellow wire one. Getting the regulator out is not easy.I took one coil off to create more roomNext. Getting that "quick" release fuel line off the tank is an art form. Unplug the electrical cable going to the coil then try to start the bike, this bleeds off all the pressure and makes the quick release easier to squeeze
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