Is there any "special" way to adjust the clutch cable on older Guzzis?

[ohiorider]

Why do I ask?  Only because I found an article on line describing how a long-time BMW pro, Tom Cutter, adjusts the clutch cable on BMW airheads.

Although I had free play as specified at the handle bar lever, I still had a clutch that grabbed near the end of handle travel.  The pro's method, that took 10 minutes max, retained the free play, but eliminated the off/on clutch takeup.  Additionally, it practically eliminated the transmission 'dog' rattling and crunching that was occurring no matter how hard I 'blipped' the throttle to match engine rpm to road speed.  The old GS is now much more rideable!

So. is there any specific method when installing a new cable on an older Guzzi?

Bob

[moto-uno]

  Haven't you answered that in your question ? Sounds to me that you install the new cable with the same
free play as removed cable .  Peter

[ohiorider]

  Haven't you answered that in your question ? Sounds to me that you install the new cable with the same
free play as removed cable .  Peter

I don't believe I've made myself clear.  I may try again, later.  Anyone else understand what I'm asking?  Hint ... you can have the correct clutch handle free play, but not the same clutch take up ........

[Scout63]

I adjust the clutch arm on the rear of the gearbox so that the pin is just barely touching the push rod outer body, then adjust the hand clutch lever at the handlebar with about 1/8 free play.

[Old Jock]

I use a method similar to Scout.

Start at the back end and work forward, I try to get a very small gap between the arm and the push rod just a few thou, as long as the arm isn't exerting pressure on the pushrod.

Then eliminate slack at the lever using the rear adjuster, the thought being if the cable stretches on a ride, its reasonably easy to adjust at the lever, less so at the gearbox.

Final adjustment if required at the lever, then go back and check the arm still isn't exerting any pressure on the pushrod.

I'm aiming for the lever arm not loading the pushrod with the slack taken up sufficiently at the bar that the clutch can easily and fully disengage. 

I'm all ears if there's a better method

[ohiorider]

I don't think the BMW method is any better, just a little different.  It's what they've published since maybe the mid 1980's.  Pretty much a matter of what  Jock and Scout said .......... don't forget to measure at the tranny.  BMW sets handlebar lever gap from the back of the transmission.  I guess I never gave it any thought, since the clutch has always, until recently, taken up gradually, offering some feel so one could use the clutch lever as a control instrument, not an off/on switch.

The last time I had tranny work done, there was no gradual take up of the clutch.  Oh, it disengaged and engaged, but all near the end of clutch handle movement.  Also, took considerable care to match engine rpm closely with road speed to avoid grinding the shift dogs.  I thought, 'well, something isn't right in the clutch or tranny.'  Maybe a new clutch plate that is out of spec that'll wear in. So I soldiered on.  Until yesterday.  15 minutes  of adjusting, and I had my old bike back.  Long time since I've had her out for 120 miles.