Thanks Jeff, I've tried a different bulb, no joy.
So after a bit more poking around I find three relays to the right on the frame under the tank...
First has 2 pale brown wires, 1 white and green, 1 yellow and purple.
Second has 1 red and brown, 1 blue and white, 1 red and green, 1 red and white.
Third has 2 red and green, 1 blue and yellow and 1 purple.
I've ordered a new relay (all three are the same 30A 4 pin) so I can swap them out to check, but does anyone know whether any of these, and which one, control the headlight circuit after startup?