Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: kballowe on March 17, 2023, 06:51:11 AM
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What do you really use ?
:bike-037:
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Of course.... can anyone give me a good reason NOT to use what was spec'd by the OEM?!?
ANYONE?
Just one GOOD reason?
* crickets *
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Of course.... can anyone give me a good reason NOT to use what was spec'd by the OEM?!?
ANYONE?
Just one GOOD reason?
* crickets *
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52371996027_b2cfe23f57_z.jpg)
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I've been using 15W-50 in the motorcycles and zero turn.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52371996027_b2cfe23f57_z.jpg)
Tastes like chicken.
Wonder if you could make a gumbo or an etouffee? :smiley:
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Tastes like chicken.
Wonder if you could make a gumbo or an etouffee? :smiley:
Gonna need a bigger soup pot, that's for sure !
:boozing: :boozing: :boozing:
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10w60 keeps working for me. I generally run the Royal purple xpr with excellent results in that the bike keeps running…..10-60 makes sense to me for a n air cooled engine. Imo. Can’t resist oil threads
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52371996027_b2cfe23f57_z.jpg)
That's not a cricket!
I've known lots of crickets for years, that's no cricket!
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I have been using Motul 10W-60 but just got some Liqui Molly 10W-60 on sale and will use that. Doubt I will notice any difference.
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I can say one thing for certain. When it's hot and your dipstick comes out it's very slippery and it doesn't wash off!
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Of course.... can anyone give me a good reason NOT to use what was spec'd by the OEM?!?
ANYONE?
Just one GOOD reason?
* crickets *
Sure, OIL PRIDE! :wink:
"I'll be horn swaggled and bull whipped if I gonna let some OEM who doesn't know how to grease a bearing tell we what oil to use!!!"
I don't know what color the non-OEM oil user survivor ribbon is. I know pink is for breast cancer survivors.
I would think the ribbon color is probably some color between the nlight golden color of virgin vegetable oil and the pitch black color of used gear oil with 250,000 miles!!!!
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Liqui-Molly 10-60 full synthetic from NAPA . They usually get it overnight .Oil is cheaper than engine repair .
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Oil is oil. I buy whatever is cheapest. Don’t care about the numbers. Oil is oil, they are all slippery. Never had any issues.
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10w-60 Motul Synthetic from 'Zon
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10w-60 Motul Synthetic from 'Zon
Same here, from day one.
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I put 20W50 in the older Guzzi's and 10W60 in the Norge and Daytona. Just seems penny foolish to go to some cheaper oil for those two bikes.
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yup, Motul 10W- 60 Syn. Don't shop around every trip to my Guzzi Dealer I stock up. Bought our 2 Bikes there. In return they sell us Oil at decent Price.
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We used to have a local Guzzi dealer in St Louis. They had a big drum of Bel-Ray 10W-50 and that's what they used in most everything.
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Fresh LiquiMoly 10w-60 went into the Norge yesterday. Found a decent deal on Amazon so bought a couple 5 liter containers.
Also did the CARC and transmission as well at the same time...all freshly oiled up and ready for some more rides!
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Always been curious as to why OEM dealerships will use any product not speced from the factory. Seems odd.
Also, if anyone cares, I posted a copy of a notice issued several years ago from Guzzi superseeding older oil specs to now show the previous 10-50 to use 10-60. Check the archives for that post or take my word for it.
Or, don't. It's all good.
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10w-60 in the Breva 1100 as per Oem Spec
20w-50 'V-twin' in the CX100 because I dont think the weight specified for the engine at that time (10w50?) is available... or it wasnt last time I looked
Ran the same 20w-50 in the V65 with a ZDDP additive
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I have been using Motul 10W-60 but just got some Liqui Molly 10W-60 on sale and will use that. Doubt I will notice any difference.
The Motul pairs best with a Cabernet Sauvignon, while the Liqui Moly pairs with a Riesling.
My manual recommends "SAE 10W 60; JASO MA, MA2; API SG". Seems pretty simple. I'm not in an extreme climate so I'll buy the 10W-60 as recommended, and I'll make sure the bottle says it meets or exceeds all the other oil classifications listed after that. That spec is what matters to me, Piaggio partnering ($$$) with Castrol to recommend their oil is great if I didn't want to think about it or if that's what's available, but really all I care about is running an oil that meets the recommended specification and gets changed at the recommended intervals. I trusted the company and their engineers to design and build the motorcycle, I'm not going to start doubting their expertise on it when they recommend the oil and maintenance for it.
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Same here, from day one.
same here. its the easy button....
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The manual calls for 10/60 so that is what I use, Castrol Edge Super Car. They have it in stock at Walmart almost all the time.
Scott
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I use Castrol 10-60 because the local O'Reilly's keeps it in stock. My first service for my V7 the dealership put in Motul. Now, filters are another problem. I either have to order online or get one from the dealer. I don't know about my V7 yet but HiFo is the only company that makes one for the 1400 as far as I was able to determine.
kk
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Hay Kev
Of course.... can anyone give me a good reason NOT to use what was spec'd by the OEM?!?
ANYONE?
Just one GOOD reason?
................... ................... ................... .................
Years ago I found the difference between Synthetic and Traditional oil , and can never go back .
I also found how much difference a bottle of STP type oil fortifier makes in how slippery the oil gets when Fortified .
Also , I've found that the thinner oil results in better MPG returns.
So
I use 0w20 in my tight tolerance modern liquid cooled Truck and Jeep .
For the same reason I use a pint of Fortifier and Full Synthetic 10w40 in the loose tolerance air cooled motors. and my oil still feels Slick after 6,000 miles. I'm getting 50 to 55 mpg from my V7-II with a Touring size windshield , hand guards and 30L bags . I have got over 60 mpg while following my Harley friends around . :thumb:
Right or Wrong ... it's been working for near 30,000 miles ? :smiley:
(https://i.ibb.co/X55jL4B/Guzzi2mp-Jan23.jpg) (https://ibb.co/X55jL4B)
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My V7III gets 10-60 Motul purchased from my Guzzi Dealer.
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The Motul pairs best with a Cabernet Sauvignon, while the Liqui Moly pairs with a Riesling.
I use the Liquid Moly with a Cabernet.... but doesn't the Guzzi manual spec a rough Chianti?! :shocked: :grin:
I sure hope things don't grenade as a result......
-Stretch
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I've been using 10w60 in the V85, which is what is called for. I've been meaning to take an oil sample at 5,000ish miles to see how it is really doing, but never seem to get around to it. I suspect the oil is out of spec by then and some 20w50 might actually work better. Until I actually check I'll stick with the specified weight.
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There is is one category missing in the survey and that is…(Drum roll accompanied by the sound of tearing envelope with a well timed cymbal splash…)
“I just have to re invent the wheel to re validate my own sense of self relevance and since I own a fabulously engineered piece of mechanical awesomeness, I can put stale cat’s piss in there for bugger all money and still not manage to blow the poor bugger up…”
The only outlay is the initial purchase price of the aforementioned cat and the water.
I like the one that says..”It works for me”.
Mate, it works for anyone and all that proves is, that the whole debate although mildly entertaining, is largely moot.
If it makes you feel good..? Do it.
Because feeling good is the only reason we do any of it and as for the oil debate ?
It’s another opportunity to politely say…”Shut up, I’m right…”
But it’s answering the question that nobody asked..
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When I was a tyke on a family car trip to Arizona our car sprang a leak.
No oil within 150 miles, so my dad put a couple of quarts of H2O in with
the remaining oil and drove the Mercury into Phoenix, where he replaced
it with oil. I do know that we drove that car back 1500 miles home, but
don't know much about engine longevity after that.
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When I was a tyke on a family car trip to Arizona our car sprang a leak.
No oil within 150 miles, so my dad put a couple of quarts of H2O in with
the remaining oil and drove the Mercury into Phoenix, where he replaced
it with oil. I do know that we drove that car back 1500 miles home, but
don't know much about engine longevity after that.
Gorgeous… :bow: :thumb: :laugh:
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Love the wine analogy Enzo…I always thought LiquiMoly was more like a Brunello than a Riesling but I like both!
Now to add some controversy, although I do have some high up support in my back pocket from folks, I don’t mind putting 75W/90 in the gearbox and CARC drive both on the Norge vs the official specs of 80/90 and 85/90.
Now back to finding another cool mural on my trip around Texas.
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I can say one thing for certain. When it's hot and your dipstick comes out it's very slippery and it doesn't wash off!
Come on Huzo, we have all been waiting........OK, low hanging fruit. Too easy, sure, but still.....
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I use what Mike Harper told me to use on my old bikes, Otherwise, I ask Mr. Whoopee AKA kballowe. He knows Jack Shit.
(https://i.ibb.co/9nfk9zV/whoopee.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9nfk9zV)
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I use the cheapest or easiest oil I can get my hands on that meets manufacturers jaso, sae, etc. spec for the application but that's just me, don't really care what others use as long as they're happy with their choice.
My '03 V11 Lemans got 15w50 Mobil 1 full syn last oil change, trans 80w-90 cheap stuff...valvoline, supertch,etc.
The rest of my two wheel junk usually gets 15w-40 Shell Rotella T4 these days.
I ride above 40F. and rarely over 95F.
Subie 0w-20....don't recall what brand.
Old Silverado 5w30 Supertech.
No red or purple stuff for me, aint paying extra for coloring :laugh:
And, no 10w-60.
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"Good"?
Still waiting. :kiss:
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There is is one category missing in the survey and that is…(Drum roll accompanied by the sound of tearing envelope with a well timed cymbal splash…)
“I just have to re invent the wheel to re validate my own sense of self relevance and since I own a fabulously engineered piece of mechanical awesomeness, I can put stale cat’s piss in there for bugger all money and still not manage to blow the poor bugger up…”
The only outlay is the initial purchase price of the aforementioned cat and the water.
I like the one that says..”It works for me”.
Mate, it works for anyone and all that proves is, that the whole debate although mildly entertaining, is largely moot.
If it makes you feel good..? Do it.
Because feeling good is the only reason we do any of it and as for the oil debate ?
It’s another opportunity to politely say…”Shut up, I’m right…”
But it’s answering the question that nobody asked..
Amen Brother!
The real question is "What oil do you feel the best about using?"
Oil Pride is Real!
I heard that once from a very wise guy......
I suspect it will take more than 500,000 very harsh miles to result in much wear from such lowly stressed engines.
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"Good"?
Still waiting. :kiss:
:laugh:
Obviously, they are all good reasons, if they are sufficient for the end user to rationalize.
Now the real issue. If the OEM knows best, and they see fit NOT TO PUT GREASE in a bearing........
how many people are risking ruining their motorcycles by putting grease in the dry bearing the OEM specified?
Or more importantly, if using the wrong weight or type of oil could void your warranty, is the warranty also voided by putting grease in a dry bearing?
Let the discussions run wild!!!
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No such thing as all good reasons.
People make terrible decisions every day thinking they are doing the right thing.
Just terrible....
Walk into any Walmart and observe.
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Walk into any Walmart and observe.
Pfffft. Amateurs.
Walk into the dollar store - after dark.
:boozing:
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That's not a cricket!
I've known lots of crickets for years, that's no cricket!
It just warms my little heart that someone actually looks at my posts ! :boozing:
OK, so does it at least REMIND you of a cricket ?
:boozing: :boozing: :boozing:
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When I was a tyke on a family car trip to Arizona our car sprang a leak.
No oil within 150 miles, so my dad put a couple of quarts of H2O in with
the remaining oil and drove the Mercury into Phoenix, where he replaced
it with oil. I do know that we drove that car back 1500 miles home, but
don't know much about engine longevity after that.
:blank:
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No such thing as all good reasons.
People make terrible decisions every day thinking they are doing the right thing.
Just terrible....
Au contraire mon ami (latin for not so fast bubba),
I think (therefore I am) you aren't looking for GOOD reasons, but reason which would convince you!
The question "What oil should I use?" is a lot like the question "What bike should I buy?"
Why listen to the people who write ads for Yamaha vs listening to the people who write ads for Ducati! NGC
Subjective answers abound, both the Ducati riders and the yamaha riders know the others is wrong!
:wink:
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It just warms my little heart that someone actually looks at my posts ! :boozing:
OK, so does it at least REMIND you of a cricket ?
:boozing: :boozing: :boozing:
You are more than welcome!
Doesn't even remotely remind me a of cricket, but an awesome grasshopper!
But with a big enough hook, it would be awesome for deep sea fishing!
Now throw that monster grasshopper in a blender and make some real MG oil!
Screw PETA, cause it's a Bio-degradable and renewable resource!
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Of course I'm asking about what is GOOD to me, I'm the one asking. :grin: :laugh: :grin:
Or was I asking about "motorcycle maintenance" and "quality"? :huh:
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Maybe , the feller with the most miles on his machine has the RIGHT answer ? :rolleyes:
I know a feller with a LS650 with over 200,000 miles on it who always uses Shell Rotella T-6 15w40. He said he did a valve job at 100,000 and didn't even find a ring grove .
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Maybe , the feller with the most miles on his machine has the RIGHT answer ? :rolleyes:
Ok, so you have me in an emotionally vulnerable moment.
N = 1 is almost always useless.
OEM recommendations aren't (obviously) the only acceptable solution.
They are normally the best bet for all possible circumstances.
You can definitely use something else under some circumstances.
The problem is, what are those circumstances? Is it an issue of higher temperature, or lower, or higher humidity or lower, or longer trips, or shorter?
It's obviously ok to stray from the rec.
The question is WHY? Combined with IS IT A GOOD IDEA/OR EVEN BENEFICIAL?
It usually takes more than just in saving $$$ to qualify for that.
And it definitely takes more than one person's experience to recommendv it, especially if warranties might be involved.
Which leads me back to my original reply.
You need a GOOD reason to go against the OEM recommendations.
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Maybe , the feller with the most miles on his machine has the RIGHT answer ? :rolleyes:
I know a feller with a LS650 with over 200,000 miles on it who always uses Shell Rotella T-6 15w40. He said he did a valve job at 100,000 and didn't even find a ring grove .
I've got a buddy who ran in the last couple of Iron Butt rallys on a 250k mile (give or take) rubbermount Sporty using OEM SYN3 oil.
My point? N =1. That said, the OEM normally tests and they should be more then an N = 1.
YMMV
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Fair Point Kev.
The manufacture has to cover its butt above all else ! If I lived in Phenix AZ. in the summer , I'd want the w60 part.
Thinking of Iron Butt : You don't suspect that those Iron Butt fellers run over the posted speed limits do ya ?
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Thinking of Iron Butt : You don't suspect that those Iron Butt fellers run over the posted speed limits do ya ?
When I attempted my second SaddleSore 1000 years ago it was disqualified due to a brisk stretch in Wyoming :copcar:
Turns out Kneebone or someone did the math on average speed between stops and made sure it wasn't above the posted speed limit. So yeah, you can "get away with" speeding to make up for longer stops or slower stretches, but don't speed thinking you'll get certified AND make it to bed any sooner than if you just sat on your butt and rode the speed limit.
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Come on Huzo, we have all been waiting........OK, low hanging fruit. Too easy, sure, but still.....
Yeah, I saw it but thought I’d let the opening act use it…
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:popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :food: :afro: :blank: :azn: :thewife:
10W60 in all my Guzzi's with the exception of the Convert which gets high Zinc 20W50 usually Brad Penn.
Real question is which 10w60, there are several Motul and Liquimoly options not to mention others.
I am thinking about trying Rotella T6 in the 1200 Sport (80k miles) I ran T4 in my air cooled yamahas for years.
I do a 3K or annual interval on most bikes as I split riding between 3-4 bikes.
I also do 3k intervals on the Stornello due to it's small capacity. That seems to be the hardest on oil.
My V8 car and truck spec 0w20, but manual also specs 5w30 for towing or track use so I just run 5w30 all the time.
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Ok, so you have me in an emotionally vulnerable moment.
N = 1 is almost always useless.
OEM recommendations aren't (obviously) the only acceptable solution.
They are normally the best bet for all possible circumstances.
You can definitely use something else under some circumstances.
The problem is, what are those circumstances? Is it an issue of higher temperature, or lower, or higher humidity or lower, or longer trips, or shorter?
It's obviously ok to stray from the rec.
The question is WHY? Combined with IS IT A GOOD IDEA/OR EVEN BENEFICIAL?
It usually takes more than just in saving $$$ to qualify for that.
And it definitely takes more than one person's experience to recommendv it, especially if warranties might be involved.
Which leads me back to my original reply.
You need a GOOD reason to go against the OEM recommendations.
Emotionally vulnerable? IS there an emoji for a group hug?
Imagine that emoji right here > ______
We still have not strayed from whatever makes you feel good!
“The heart has its reasons which reason knows nothing of... We know the truth not only by the reason, but by the heart.”
― Blaise Pascal, Pensées
:grin:
Everyone knows 20w-50 Organic Grasshopper Oil is better than any weight of cricket oil currently on the market!!! :wink:
Damn shame Whale Oil is not available.
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I remember the time that there were many heated discussions about specific brands of motor oil. Many of the owner's manuals specified AGIP/ENI branded fluids, and folks went to great lengths to get it. Some were convinced that using anything else would result in catastrophe. Fast forward a few years, and Moto Guzzi is recommending "Castrol products". LOL - and now it's "whatever" 10W-60.
I still have some friends that use the AGIP/ENI fluids. And why not ? They have the coolest emblem of them all. Ya can't get this on a jug of something else.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52755460473_1d7e6669cb_z.jpg)
Still want that AGIP oil, but cannot afford the shipping ? There's a solution !
You can get these fine AGIP stickers on EBay.
Just stick 'em over whatever other label is on the bottle.
:boozing: :boozing: :boozing:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52754986621_8e7b43fe8d_b.jpg)
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53 replies and 582 views in one day. Is this a proverbial oil thread? It’s still winter around here….
Interesting reading, not much thread drift. I don’t have anything that uses 10/60 but that doesn’t matter in an oil thread. My questions are : does anyone feel guilt not using the specified oil? Are there many reports of oil related engine failures? Do you operate at rated power for more than a blast? Do you check your safety equipment on a daily basis? The rev limiter is part of the safety equipment. :tongue:
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I remember the time that there were many heated discussions about specific brands of motor oil. Many of the owner's manuals specified AGIP/ENI branded fluids, and folks went to great lengths to get it. Some were convinced that using anything else would result in catastrophe. Fast forward a few years, and Moto Guzzi is recommending "Castrol products". LOL - and now it's "whatever" 10W-60.
I still have some friends that use the AGIP/ENI fluids. And why not ? They have the coolest emblem of them all. Ya can't get this on a jug of something else.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52755460473_1d7e6669cb_z.jpg)
Now we are talking!
The other aspect missing to this conversation is that we are usually talking about used machines. I would bet a great deal of money that once a motorcycle is past 5,000 miles, the wear rate is greatly reduced (no matter the oil) and how the longevity of the bike has a lot to do with how the original owner cared for the bike in the first few hundred miles of break in.
Pretty much every "oil failure" I have ever heard is due to human error.
Great conversation.
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53 replies and 582 views in one day. Is this a proverbial oil thread? It’s still winter around here….
Interesting reading, not much thread drift. I don’t have anything that uses 10/60 but that doesn’t matter in an oil thread. My questions are : does anyone feel guilt not using the specified oil? Are there many reports of oil related engine failures? Do you operate at rated power for more than a blast? Do you check your safety equipment on a daily basis? The rev limiter is part of the safety equipment. :tongue:
Excellent question John.
I would have to answer "No!" to all those questions.
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Just because I can't resist beating this dead horse a little more....
Given that 10W60 can operate at higher temperatures longer without thermal breakdown than 10W40, one could speculate that an air cooled engine might benefit (vs. a water cooled engine) from this capability.
Or you could just buy the damn 4T 10W60 like the manual says and call it a day...
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Just because I can't resist beating this dead horse a little more....
Given that 10W60 can operate at higher temperatures longer without thermal breakdown than 10W40, one could speculate that an air cooled engine might benefit (vs. a water cooled engine) from this capability.
Or you could just buy the damn 4T 10W60 like the manual says and call it a day...
Also Global Warming :evil:
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OK, so - serious question here.....
How many of you have owner's manuals that specify Castrol products, and actually use Castrol products ?
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I bought my 2004 EVT from the original owner in Atlanta, GA. He gave me a few receipts from the dealer which indicated that they were using 10w/60, yet the manual calls for 5w/40. If all of the lubricated parts (except lifters) are the same in the parts manual, then why would it be taboo to run 5w/40 with conventional lifters?
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Pretty much every "oil failure" I have ever heard is due to human error.
That's what my Honda/BMW dealership owner said when a few guys in the service area said when the merits of Castrol vs Valvoline oils were being discussed. "I've seen more engines damaged by lack of rather than the brand used." That ended the discussion.
I have been wondering if 10-60 is so good maybe I should use it in my water cooled Bonneville also. I ride in some warm temperatures, over 100*, the Triumph doesn't have the largest radiator. Probably should just stick with the recommended 10-40.
kk
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OK, so - serious question here.....
How many of you have owner's manuals that specify Castrol products, and actually use Castrol products ?
not I
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T6 is 5/40.
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Mostly use Castrol 10w50wt.
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I have not seen the manual. I have no skin in this game. I can't blame winter but it is 38C here again today and even hotter in the shed so I have retreated inside.
What surprises me about the oil recommendation is every other vehicle I have owned has a chart with expected temperatures and has an oil weight recommended for that range. There is often a lot of overlap on the temperatures. This has always lead me to believe that there was no ideal oil weight for an engine, therefore the operator should use the one that is most appropriate for their conditions and use. The manuals often have two oil change intervals, one for regular use and one for severe use with some guidelines like stop start runs and such. Again it was up to the operator to choose the appropriate interval. In that way I have always followed the manufactures guidance.
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I have not seen the manual. I have no skin in this game. I can't blame winter but it is 38C here again today and even hotter in the shed so I have retreated inside.
What surprises me about the oil recommendation is every other vehicle I have owned has a chart with expected temperatures and has an oil weight recommended for that range. There is often a lot of overlap on the temperatures. This has always lead me to believe that there was no ideal oil weight for an engine, therefore the operator should use the one that is most appropriate for their conditions and use. The manuals often have two oil change intervals, one for regular use and one for severe use with some guidelines like stop start runs and such. Again it was up to the operator to choose the appropriate interval. In that way I have always followed the manufactures guidance.
Those range charts have all but disappeared in the auto world and are becoming less and less common in powersports.
I suspect the reason is two fold. Water cooled motors generally won't need as much if a range with changing conditions and maybe most importantly modern synthetic oils are much better suited to a wider range of ambient conditions.
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Owners manuals from the past told us how to adjust the valves.
Now they tell us not to drink the contents of the battery.
80% of the newer manuals are warnings.
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Penrite 10W60. Full synthetic. Full zinc loading. Heron head smallblocks run hot. <shrug>
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Probably won't satisfy Kev and only what I've found
I've got pressure gauges on my 3 Guzzis for various reasons and "joke" sump dipstick thermometers, so have some idea of oil pressure and temp
I've found the 2 v/v bikes are prefectly happy with 15/50, good start up pressure and stable running pressure and temps.
The HiCam Daytona RS engine has "mad" cams installed, that the US and Centauros didn't get.
The engine runs hot, 105C in clear air and rapidly overheats in traffic.
I run it on 10/60 which has improved the pressure, no difference in temp.
I ran Penrite for the last few years and still do on the 2v/v bikes and I'm about to try a Royal Purple 10/60 which is very pricey here.
Originally used Motul but the zinc content in RP and Penrite is higher, all oils are full synth .
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Owners manuals from the past told us how to adjust the valves.
Now they tell us not to drink the contents of the battery.
Sad but true......... :angry:
-Stretch
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When I had my Breva V1100, 10W60 Red Line. It gave me peace of mind when I rode in the Phoenix, AZ summer.
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I bought my 2004 EVT from the original owner in Atlanta, GA. He gave me a few receipts from the dealer which indicated that they were using 10w/60, yet the manual calls for 5w/40. If all of the lubricated parts (except lifters) are the same in the parts manual, then why would it be taboo to run 5w/40 with conventional lifters?
I had the same bike back in the day and the service manual does specify 5W-40 for the hydraulic bikes. I do recall a discussion that there was an update to require 10w-60 in hotter climates but being in NJ and not doing many long rides I did run the 5W40 without issue.
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A good friend of mine was a barge Captain for Mobil and drove those huge barges up the Mississippi river from the Gulf refineries. They'd dock in St. Louis and offload oil base stock. I got to see the operation and spend time with the blenders and testers. LOL - they bottled just about everything there. One week it was brand x and the next week it was brand y. There were no signs - just a large building and a lot of those huge storage tanks - and warehouse area.
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Of course.... can anyone give me a good reason NOT to use what was spec'd by the OEM?!?
ANYONE?
Just one GOOD reason?
The owners manual for my 2019 Toyota Corolla 2.0 motor (and the oil fill cap on the motor) specify to "only use 0W-16 oil". I imagine it is spec'd by Toyota for slightly better MPG through our EPA test because the same engine in some other countries suggest other weights. I use 5W-30.
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The owners manual for my 2019 Toyota Corolla 2.0 motor (and the oil fill cap on the motor) specify to "only use 0W-16 oil". I imagine it is spec'd by Toyota for slightly better MPG through our EPA test because the same engine in some other countries suggest other weights. I use 5W-30.
That is a good point and I don't disagree. I think making CAFE standards has unintended consequences. And since the OEM recommends something different in areas with different regulations I think that IS A GOOD argument to potentially follow THOSE recommendations instead.
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Owners manuals from the past told us how to adjust the valves.
Now they tell us not to drink the contents of the battery.
80% of the newer manuals are warnings.
Hmm……so THATS why I’m always adding water to my mower battery. I need to keep a better eye on things around here.
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Hmm……so THATS why I’m always adding water to my mower battery. I need to keep a better eye on things around here.
(https://i.ibb.co/1fGNT5p/laugh.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1fGNT5p)
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That is a good point and I don't disagree. I think making CAFE standards has unintended consequences. And since the OEM recommends something different in areas with different regulations I think that IS A GOOD argument to potentially follow THOSE recommendations instead.
Another area I often deviate from what the OEM specs is tire pressure, especially since most now seem to give one pressure for all scenarios. I generally only using what they spec when I'm fully loaded and or 2-up.
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Another area I often deviate from what the OEM specs is tire pressure, especially since most now seem to give one pressure for all scenarios. I generally only using what they spec when I'm fully loaded and or 2-up.
That's a spec that can be more directly tested by observing pressure changes at temp.
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10/60 in the MGX ( synth )
20/60 in the 1200 Sport and Cali Metal ( TRM synth but behaves like a mineral oil )
15/50 in the Breva 750 semi synth ( Guardian )
all Rock Oil.
all get changed every 5k miles , cos it's easier to remember than every 6k miles.
Huzo if you read this , throw that god awful jacket in the bin . :evil:
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I bought my 2004 EVT from the original owner in Atlanta, GA. He gave me a few receipts from the dealer which indicated that they were using 10w/60, yet the manual calls for 5w/40. If all of the lubricated parts (except lifters) are the same in the parts manual, then why would it be taboo to run 5w/40 with conventional lifters?
Your 2004 California has hydraulic lifters which require lighter oil for the lifters to function correctly. That is on all 2003-2004 California models.
All other Guzzis have solid lifters and require heavier oils. The CARC and V7 Classics have required 10w60 since 2006 and 2009 respectively.
On 2002 and previous solid lifter engines the choice should be 15W50 or 20w50.
On the solid lifter engines the added viscosity and an oil with a higher ZDDP number will keep the cam alive longer.
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(https://i.ibb.co/ZSv6jtf/MG-oil.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ZSv6jtf)
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I never could find that Rotra MP gear oil, but after a bit of research, I discovered that Mobil 1 Delvac gear oil is a virtual match. Of course, nobody sells that, either. At least not in the retail stores or the auto parts stores. I ordered a gallon from Summit Racing.
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(https://i.ibb.co/ZSv6jtf/MG-oil.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ZSv6jtf)
How do we really know that's not a deep fake you made up, while siting on your bed in your mom's basement?
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Well, gentlemen, there you have it. What more could possibly be said?
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Well, gentlemen, there you have it. What more could possibly be said?
hahahahahahaaaaa... ..
The AF-1 Racing website has these 10W-60 Castrol oil change kits. One for the V7 III and another for the Moto Guzzi 1400. And there are more, of course. It appears that they're in the spirit of the lubes as specified in the owner's manual.
(https://i.ibb.co/khBxKdq/MG-Castrol-oil-change-kit-1400.jpg) (https://ibb.co/khBxKdq)
(https://i.ibb.co/bRmLLL8/MG-Castrol-oil-change-kit.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bRmLLL8)
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No, he's right. I cobbled it together, pasted it on one of Hamlin's shop tool boxes, and then sat on the pic for a dozen years just waiting for this thread so I could wreck havac on everyone's motor from afar. Man, I thought I was way more cleaver than THAT............... ..........dang.
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I new it!! Maybe now you can admit that the world isn't round too, you ratbas@rd! :wink: :wink:
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Since the book calls for 10w60, I use it. It is only 2 quarts anyway so I figure it must be important.
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How about this one ? Is this good stuff ?
(https://i.ibb.co/mHqyrwp/Liqui-Moly10w-60.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mHqyrwp)
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That's knew it, not new it. :police:
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An oil thread, and only four pages ?
:boozing:
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10-50 Motul was the only thing even close that was available locally. correction, you say NAPA Carrie’s 10-60.. I’ll use that next time. The Motul was a pretty big investment so I’m not draining it when new.
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https://youtu.be/eeb2D5zYFdo
A good video on racing oil.
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The entire site is helpful.
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At 110K on a 3 year old 98 EV I had the oil analized with 3,500 miles on the oil and 10K on the filter. It said it was good only the sulphur was high and I should change the oil. I used to take connecting rod sleeves to rallies and show what they looked like at over 1ooK. You could hardly see the wear. "Why did you change them?" I was asked. Only so you could see how little wear there was.
Racing data doesn't prove squat to me. I'm not running the motor at max rpm. I want my motors to last 100K plus and many of them have.
Now why did I waste my time on this post?
Tex
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Huzo if you read this , throw that god awful jacket in the bin . :evil:
I only had it made as a bit of a joke for Mandello last year.
I could have sold it many times on that trip for a MAJOR profit but clearly did not. I think it reflected my character in that it eschews any form of gratuitous self promotion and carries itself with a understated and quiet dignity… :rolleyes:
Also I love it when people say they don’t… :thumb:
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How do we really know that's not a deep fake you made up, while siting on your bed in your mom's basement?
Not possible, his Mom doesn’t have a basement…
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I new it!! Maybe now you can admit that the world isn't round too, you ratbas@rd! :wink: :wink:
Actually it’s spherical or more correctly, oblate.
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(https://i.ibb.co/6Xnkntr/Sinclair-Motor-Oils-Tin-Sign.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6Xnkntr)
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A question, the manual to newer Guzzis says 10W60 MA classed oil. Cant see the reason to use MA classed oil in a engine with dry clutch, or am i wrong? :lipsrsealed:
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A question, the manual to newer Guzzis says 10W60 MA classed oil. Cant see the reason to use MA classed oil in a engine with dry clutch, or am i wrong? :lipsrsealed:
You are correct.
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My bike is a 2018 model. Or rather, a 2017 first registered in 2018. I have no clue when it had its first service, because the service book is missing. It could have been in 2018 or in 2020. Between 2018 and 2022, the original owner rode the bike 2500 km, or 1600 miles. Sometime in between, the bike had its first service. It has not been serviced since.
The second owner had the bike for a year and added another 1700 km, or a bit over 1000 miles. Since I picked up the bike in June 3, this year, I have increased the overall mileage from 4200 km / 2600 miles to 7400 km / 4600 miles, limited because the bike has sat for 6 weeks.
Today, I had planned to change the oil. I know it is not due until another 2600 km / 1700 miles based on mileage, but considering its potential age of 5 years I thought it prudent. However, after checking the oil on the dipstick and how it felt between my fingers, I feel comfortable keeping it in there until the bike has reached 10000 km. To me, it looks to be in great condition.
(https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resid=C025BCB1CF0F6A8A%219706&authkey=%21ABPCCDkDiKUFvF8&height=1024)
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Don't cheap out! Change all the oils and oil filter and search for all the threads on the right quantiies for the rear end especially. There is a screen in the 6 speed also.
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It's not about the money, it's just that it is not needed yet IMO. I will replace brake fluid, engine oil and -filter, rear diff oil and gearbox oil at the end of the season when the bike has reached 10k km.
EDIT: I already have oil for two changes and two oil filters sitting on the shelf.
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Don't forget fork oil. You'll be amazed at what comes out even with low mileage.
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Absolutely! Fork oil will wear out in as little as a few hundred miles in racing, and within 3-5000 miles during brisk street riding. I changed the fork oil on my son's MT-07 after 4500 miles, it is was really dirty. That is due to poor build tolerances causing too much abrasion, but now after 23k miles the oil is finally beginning to clear up between changes. The fork on my Guzzi, which have led a gentle life, perform with a minimum of friction, and damping is still well controlled, so I will replace it when I do the engine-, gearbox- and final drive oils plus both brakes at 6200 miles / 10kkm.
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It's not about the money, it's just that it is not needed yet IMO.
We'll have to agree to disagree on that..
considering its potential age of 5 years I thought it prudent
:shocked:
Go with your first thought. :smiley:
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Nah, I think we just have to agree to disagree :grin:
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Don't forget fork oil. You'll be amazed at what comes out even with low mileage.
You mean the fork oil in my 1979 XS1100 with 130K miles should be changed?!?!?!?!! (not gonna mention the Guzzis's but I have never changed fork oil unless it needed seals)...... I know, I am an abuser.
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When I lived back east I would spend a lot of time at Hamlin's shop during visits to assist in any way and mostly learn. I did assist on lots of fork rebuilds and RaceTech mods.
One just can't believe how much aluminum "dust" is present in fork oil. The springs rub against the inner surface like there's no tomorrow and rather quickly contaminate the oil.
It's downright ugly and I've seen it dozens of times. After I cleaned everything up I'd see how Jim would reassemble stock forks for much reduced wear. There's only so much c that can be accomplished with OEM forks but Jim knows every workaround. It was a real eye opener and a great learning experience to boot.
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And the smell of old fork oil is just :violent1:
Yes, those who know what they are doing will shim fork bearings to perfection, and even ream the outer legs for the final thousands of perfection, and/or grind the stanchions to perfect dimensions. I am not at the level, nor do I have the tools. But I have learned tons by following Dave Moss (paying member) over many, many years, which have encourage me to experiment by cutting springs for making them stiffer, try different oil viscosities, drill the damper rods to alter the ratio between compression and rebound, fit DDC or emulator valves etc. It is amazing how much you can tailor the ride to your needs without spending a ton of money, but be willing to experiment. I am not a perfectionist by any means, but your butt and your tires will tell if you are in the ballpark.
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Just a heads up that Amsoil has a new European 10W-60 auto motor oil that might be an option for the our bikes that call for it. Not MA/MA2 rated but I understand we don't need that. I did call Amsoil and they said they do not recommend it because it was not formulated for an air cooled motorcycle. But, the TBN is like 50% higher than their 10W/60 dirt bike oil. Not sure what harm it would cause giving it a shot?
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Seriously. NOT trying to be a smarta** here at all. But, the manufacture says "not for air cooled". Isn't that the end of it?
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Seriously. NOT trying to be a smarta** here at all. But, the manufacture says "not for air cooled". Isn't that the end of it?
You've been around here long enough to know the answer to that question, when it comes to this mob.
:violent1:
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That's one guy on the phone who may not grasp the concept of wet clutch / dry clutch. So, smartypants, what specific characteristics of the oil in a top of the line synthetic would preclude it's use in an air cooled motor vs liquid cooled motor???? Hmmmm?
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Seriously. NOT trying to be a smarta** here at all. But, the manufacture says "not for air cooled". Isn't that the end of it?
You got almost 4,000 posts here! You should know by now that "Isn't that the end of it?" is a question no one here will ever take seriously!
OIL THREADS NEVER END!
I know that is obvious, but someone had to say it! :wink:
Smartasses, wiseasses, dumbasses, they are all welcome. here! WGer's don't discriminate!
Ya never know where the next great idea will come from!
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Just a heads up that Amsoil has a new European 10W-60 auto motor oil that might be an option for the our bikes that call for it. Not MA/MA2 rated but I understand we don't need that. I did call Amsoil and they said they do not recommend it because it was not formulated for an air cooled motorcycle. But, the TBN is like 50% higher than their 10W/60 dirt bike oil. Not sure what harm it would cause giving it a shot?
You gave up waaaaaay too early. Scientists love to answer questions! The more the better.
I woulda had to ask him:
Can I use it in a DC motor?
How bout an AC motor?
Outboard?
Inboard?
Boutique oil is like boutique wine or boutique beer.
This one goes with fish, this one with beef, this one with chicken wings, this one with pork rinds....
Store this one in an oak barrel, store this one in a plastic bottle with a treaded top, store this one in a cardboard box......
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Yea, I KNOW I should know better. It was a serious question.
But, and there is always a but, if one can't take the company at word, why would one take ANY word they give?
Smartypants? Yikes. One could call them again and as for further clarification. Just a thought. But hey, the my dog is bigger than your dog-always an entertaining call.
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Yea, I KNOW I should know better. It was a serious question.
But, and there is always a but, if one can't take the company at word, why would one take ANY word they give?
Smartypants? Yikes. One could call them again and as for further clarification. Just a thought. But hey, the my dog is bigger than your dog-always an entertaining call.
Absolutely!!!
"Not only does our oil lubricate better than the other guy's oil, we've added male pheromones to it to attract hot chicks to your bike!"
Years of dealing with vendors has led me to the opinion that salespeople often have little to no technical knowledge about the products they sell. A few follow up questions usually leads to "Let me talk to someone who has actual knowledge about your product."
Maybe an engineer or a chemist?
Obviously, in air cooled engines vs water cooled engines, the big difference is engine temperature. Does that temperature difference translate to oil temperature? Maybe, maybe not. Without actually measuring oil temperature under worst conditions, how would anyone know? Lots of air cooled engines have oil coolers for a reason.
I like Amsoil products a lot, but a quick look at their products list has me smiling ear to ear. Kinda like listening to a maitre'd describe the wine list. "This is a happy little wine! Elegant but not ostentatious! A perfect after dinner wine for a night like tonight!"
Now in my mid 60's, I'm still waiting to hear the first verifiable story of engine failure due to someone using the "wrong" oil rather than plain old human error. I suspect I'll go to my grave without hearing the first one.
But in the meantime, oil discussions are virtual campfire fun. Kinda like fishing stories about "the one that got away!"
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Based to a large degree by what I see on these pages, three quarters of the guys don’t ride their bikes far enough to wear them out, even if they put sand in the engine instead of oil.
Point is, don’t claim some victory by saying…
“I put 15W50 (or something), in my bike from day one and it works for me…” :rolleyes:
It only “works” because you haven’t ridden it far enough to know if you’re treating it badly or not…
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53183944902_b8cd54fe47_b.jpg)
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Based to a large degree by what I see on these pages, three quarters of the guys don’t ride their bikes far enough to wear them out, even if they put sand in the engine instead of oil.
Point is, don’t claim some victory by saying…
“I put 15W50 (or something), in my bike from day one and it works for me…” :rolleyes:
It only “works” because you haven’t ridden it far enough to know if you’re treating it badly or not…
good point Huzo.
I'd raise your 3/4 to 99.99% of all motorcycle and car owners.
then we would get into the "sticky wicket" territory of what defines "worn out."
Some manufacturers claim claim burning 100ml of oil per 1000 miles is acceptable. I suspect those engines will never "wear out."
Still waiting for that fabled "oil failure" story. There's gotta be at least one out there.
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I might have typed tooooo soon.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ifnWe06vHEs
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the other aspect of erroneous thinking we all fall prey to is assuming the OEM specifies a specific oil to increase engine longevity and reliability.
They might not. Knowing 99+% of their customers will never wear out an engine, the specification may call for a specific oil for increased fuel efficiency or reduced emissions.
Until you know what the OEM financial incentives are, it is difficult if not impossible to tell.
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I knew a woman that had a 1977 Chevy Monte Carlo. It got a lot of short trips. At 12 years, the engine locked up around 78,000 miles.
She never had the oil changed - just added when it was low.
Last year, replaced a clutch on a 2000 Kawasaki 1500. The oil inside looked like chunks of jello. The odometer showed 90,xxx miles.
In other news, there's a Gold Wing in our riding group with something nearing 500K miles. #3 cylinder is down to 70psi. He changes the oil at 8k with whatever oil change special at the local parts store. He blames this "premature engine wear" on that el cheapo oil from the parts store.
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All of THAT said, I might go to 15w-60 in the big Cali because my local
guy stocks it for Indians.
I have to special order the other stuff......
-Stretch
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I knew a woman that had a 1977 Chevy Monte Carlo. It got a lot of short trips. At 12 years, the engine locked up around 78,000 miles.
She never had the oil changed - just added when it was low.
Last year, replaced a clutch on a 2000 Kawasaki 1500. The oil inside looked like chunks of jello. The odometer showed 90,xxx miles.
In other news, there's a Gold Wing in our riding group with something nearing 500K miles. #3 cylinder is down to 70psi. He changes the oil at 8k with whatever oil change special at the local parts store. He blames this "premature engine wear" on that el cheapo oil from the parts store.
Thanks for posting. 70 psi in one cylinder? What are the other ones? If one cylinder is drastically different from the others, I would be very reluctant to blame that on oil.
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I would be very reluctant to blame that on oil.
I dunno - no adequate lube to valve train, valve sticks open a
little, valve burns a little, compression down.
Same scenario with a partial seizure on just one cylinder.
We can all agree that the execution of this lady's maintenance schedule could've been
a wee bit better, eh?
-Stretch
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I think Huzo nailed it. Most riders will ride their bikes long enough to wear out their tires. But almost nobody puts on enough miles to come close to wearing out multiple bikes, and thus possibly being able to notice any significant performance difference between various reasonable oil choices. Maybe some Iron Butt folks. London dispatch riders. Texas Turnip.
Oil discussions about “wear” are really only appropriate to a manager of a full fleet of 18-wheelers, each of which is expected to rack up 750,000 to a million or more miles.
Nevertheless, lots of guys who have never personally put more than 30,000 miles on a single motorcycle will obsess over preventing wear based on oil selection.
What I would really like to know is why there is this obsession? What is the psychological explanation for this?
I get why the 18-wheeler fleet manager might be obsessed with oil and wear. And I get it if you are taking about Farmer Brown, who is a cheap bastard still driving his 1954 Ford pick-up truck, has a 1934 tractor in the barn, and hunts deer with his grandfather’s 1876 lever action rifle.
But why do so many regular riders get obsessed—with less than 7,000 miles on their 5 year old motorcycle while thinking of trading it in on something newer?
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the other aspect of erroneous thinking we all fall prey to is assuming the OEM specifies a specific oil to increase engine longevity and reliability.
They might not. Knowing 99+% of their customers will never wear out an engine, the specification may call for a specific oil for increased fuel efficiency or reduced emissions.
Until you know what the OEM financial incentives are, it is difficult if not impossible to tell.
I doubt this happens with motorcycles as much as it does with cars, but it absolutely happens in that industry. Some evidence of this can be seen by looking at the recommended engine oil for a specific engine in the US market and comparing it to recommendations for other markets, such as Europe or Japan.
As far as Guzzi specifying 10w60 in the newer motorcycles goes, I've been suspecting that it has to do with the advent of the closed loop EFI systems and catalysts being added. Running in closed loop around stoich will definitely drive the temperatures up, especially on an air cooled engine.
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What I would really like to know is why there is this obsession? What is the psychological explanation for this?
In my opinion, it mainly is due to emotion. Find someone who doesn't care about a motorcycle, car, piece of equipment, etc. and ask them how often they change their oil or what they put in it. They probably don't know, can't remember, or are totally indifferent on the subject. It's the same reason that every oil discussion on any web board is multiple pages long and there is high risk of it becoming a heated debate.
I've spent hundreds of hours researching oils in an attempt to determine what is best for a specific application. Some applications are fussy on oil but I'd say that most really aren't. In all my years of racing, engine building, and engine engineering at the OEM level I can honestly say that I've never run across a failure that I'd blame the oil for.
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I think because modern oil is so beautifully engineered, you almost cannot get it wrong.
Therefore a lot of guys will try to reinvent the wheel by employing their conventional wisdom and depart from the manufacturers specifications, then when it doesn’t explode in their faces, strut around waving their dog eared copy of the Old Testament above their heads proclaiming in a southern preacher accent, that they have found the path to true lubrication nirvana….. :rolleyes:
Honestly, Donald Duck could find an oil for you and you’d be ok.
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I think because modern oil is so beautifully engineered, you almost cannot get it wrong.
Therefore a lot of guys will try to reinvent the wheel by employing their conventional wisdom and depart from the manufacturers specifications, then when it doesn’t explode in their faces, strut around waving their dog eared copy of the Old Testament above their heads proclaiming in a southern preacher accent, that they have found the path to true lubrication nirvana….. :rolleyes:
Honestly, Donald Duck could find an oil for you and you’d be ok.
I mostly agree.
Oils are becoming more and more application specific. You can get it wrong and see the results of that decision but it will likely require making a decision to use an oil that doesn't meet the manufacturer's requirements. Two easy examples would be using a car oil in a motorcycle with a wet clutch or using something like an SL rated Euro oil in a direct injected application that calls for SN+ or SP. Seeing virgin oil analysis results and knowing what additives are detrimental for specific applications helps.
But if you get any oil that meets the manufacturer requirements and change it at the specified intervals it is unlikely that there will ever be a failure that could be attributed to the oil choice.
The engine OEM I work for doesn't bother testing various oils; all the tests are conducted on the factory branded oil. That suggests to me that there is little concern over what gets put in the engines as long as it meets the proper API specs.
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In my opinion, it mainly is due to emotion. Find someone who doesn't care about a motorcycle, car, piece of equipment, etc. and ask them how often they change their oil or what they put in it. They probably don't know, can't remember, or are totally indifferent on the subject. It's the same reason that every oil discussion on any web board is multiple pages long and there is high risk of it becoming a heated debate.
I've spent hundreds of hours researching oils in an attempt to determine what is best for a specific application. Some applications are fussy on oil but I'd say that most really aren't. In all my years of racing, engine building, and engine engineering at the OEM level I can honestly say that I've never run across a failure that I'd blame the oil for.
Amen. When the oil discussion is not the equivalent two wine snobs having a competition, it is often a proclamation of two enthusiasts professing their love for their significant other.
People anthropomorphize! "I love my bike more than you so I spend $2 more per quart on oil and cut the oil change interval by 1000 miles compared you. My motorcycle will know I'm giving it special care and treat me better than the other motorcycles will treat the owners of the same machine."
Especially true for people with little mechanical skills or knowledge. They want to do a little more, so they stay in their lane, and pamper their bike in a manner in which they are confident.
You see the same thing with tire pressure and valve clearances. The spec of 28-32 psi, or .004-.006" isn't good enough, so exactly 30 psi or exactly .005" feels better!
We often become our own Visiting Angels!
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I think because modern oil is so beautifully engineered, you almost cannot get it wrong.
Therefore a lot of guys will try to reinvent the wheel by employing their conventional wisdom and depart from the manufacturers specifications, then when it doesn’t explode in their faces, strut around waving their dog eared copy of the Old Testament above their heads proclaiming in a southern preacher accent, that they have found the path to true lubrication nirvana….. :rolleyes:
Honestly, Donald Duck could find an oil for you and you’d be ok.
That's why I ALWAYS store my oil in the basement. Away from the harmful UV rays of the sun. it stays fresher that way!
And ALWAYS remember to wipe off the top of the oil can BEFORE you stab your screwdriver thru the top of the can to pour it out! Could be some unseen dust on the top!!!
if you don't, you're a heathen!
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I know that ya'all are secretly using SuperTech oil from WalMart.
Admission is the first step to recovery.
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Penrite 15W-60, full synthetic, extra zinc. 2008 Breva 750. It had 13,000km on it when I bought it in 2016 and is about to turn over 100,000km. The engine has never been apart. It uses about 200ml every 1000km. It never gets really, really cold here (and I don't ride when it does) so I figure 10W or 15W makes little difference. And Penrite is made (or at least blended) here in Oz and is owned by Australians.
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Well yes…
Motul 10W60 changed every 10,000 k, 215,000 km engine never apart.
Uses 1 litre per 10,000 km…
Why would you not ?
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I know that ya'all are secretly using SuperTech oil from WalMart.
Admission is the first step to recovery.
Yeah, but if you mix in 2 ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil per quart, it becomes better than every other oil on the Market!
Oh yeah, and 1/4 ounce of Oil of Wintergreen to condition the seals and give it a nice aroma....
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You oil gurus are slippery buggers… :rolleyes:
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Well yes…
Motul 10W60 changed every 10,000 k, 215,000 km engine never apart.
Uses 1 litre per 10,000 km…
Why would you not ?
Technically Huzo, your bike does not have even a single mile on it!
Logically, it should last forever! :thumb:
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Technically Huzo, your bike does not have even a single mile on it!
Logically, it should last forever! :thumb:
There are times when I’m sure it will and recently in France, I was thinking I may go home without it…!
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I know that ya'all are secretly using SuperTech oil from WalMart.
Admission is the first step to recovery.
Guilty as charged.
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I know that ya'all are secretly using SuperTech oil from WalMart.
Admission is the first step to recovery.
BTW,
there is nothing wrong with the Super tech motorcycle oil made by Warren.. My oil engineer friend use to work at the company that sold Warren their additive package. Said they don't short change the additives they put in their oil.. I am going to use it in my new to me Kawasaki tomorrow. 10w40 MA2 package.. Generally Motul 300v/7100, Maxima Extra 4t,and Castrol Power 1 4t and the like quality. If the Kawasaki keeps shifting good I will run the Supertech without loosing any sleep at all..Some oils hold up longer than others, and with a shared gearbox, some shift a little different that each other too..
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You mean the fork oil in my 1979 XS1100 with 130K miles should be changed?!?!?!?!! (not gonna mention the Guzzis's but I have never changed fork oil unless it needed seals)...... I know, I am an abuser.
I thought about this post while changing fork oil today.
Bulldog9, promise us that if you ever do change the fork oil in your XS1100 you will record it on video or with pictures.
Draining the fork oil, the first few ounces was a crystal clear light green. Must be the previous owner changed the fork oil recently and used Bel-Ray fork oil I thought. The next few ounces the oil looked a bit murky and the last few ounces looked like brand new good ole Kal-Gard fork oil loaded with Moly.
Two flushes with Kerosene (Off Road Diesel fuel actually) and the existing diesel fuel looked almost clean. One more flush should do it.
The bike had the little drain screws at the bottom of the fork leg, but hey, that's not how the pro's do it!
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I thought we could use that miracle stuff and just run with no oil?
That seemed to go away somehow....
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Ok... I'll play...
10w60 for the griso yes
for my 1100cali vintage engined sportbike running carbs 10w60 is a definite maybe.
I think that was my first ever oil post after nearly 15 years on WG!!!!
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I think that was my first ever oil post after nearly 15 years on WG!!!!
You do realize what you have just done? Now at least one member is going through all your posts over those 15 years to prove you wrong :shocked:
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(https://i.ibb.co/GVsF5vP/118294510-10216985571461966-5912625176394807236-n.jpg) (https://ibb.co/GVsF5vP)
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I think that was my first ever oil post after nearly 15 years on WG!!!!
Feels good, doesn't it?
we all remember the first time.......
Reminds of this girl I knew from high school. She got pregnant her senior year. After she found out, she said "but my boyfriend and I only had sex once!"