Best shocks for a softer ride on a bumpy V7 stone?

[V7stone]

I have the stock shock absorbers on my 2013 V7 stone, basically feeling every bump in the road, and it's much worse on my wife's behind when she rides with me. What are the smoothest riding aftermarket shocks for a V7 stone that won't break the bank? And has anyone had much success with adjusting the pre-load on the stock shocks?

[sturgeon]

I just ordered Ikons, model 7614-2003. By all accounts they're pretty good bang for the buck. Let ya know in a week or two.

[warendt]

I bought the Bitubo shocks they put on the racer. These you can adjust the compression damping and it makes a world of difference.

[V7stone]

I was thinking of getting the Ikons too, and saw 7614-2003 on AF1's site for $429, does seem like a pretty good deal...  I wonder if they make them in chrome finish also, to keep the same look on the back of the bike.

[CND]

I have the Ikons. They do make a significant (positive) difference although it did take them three tries to get them right (they are built to your specs).

Was the shock builders blunders not the shock.

The look blends well with the bike  ;-T

[rocker59]

I have the stock shock absorbers on my 2013 V7 stone, basically feeling every bump in the road, and it's much worse on my wife's behind when she rides with me. What are the smoothest riding aftermarket shocks for a V7 stone that won't break the bank? And has anyone had much success with adjusting the pre-load on the stock shocks?

I doubt the stock shocks are too stiff.  You're probably bottoming them out.  The bikes don't have a lot of suspension travel.  Have you adjusted the preload to the highest position?

Good shocks that will work properly will not be cheap.  Todd at Guzzitech can fix you up.

[sonicboom]

MY experience with rear shocks most often is people don't adjust them properly. I put them al the way on the soft setting and then I find a road without traffic and a big bump. I then ride over that bump adjusting the ramp adjustment up until I no longer bottom out. I have found with the limited travel with rear shocks little if any improvement gained by throwing money at it. I've come to the conclusion that any stock rear shock can be made to work.

Front shocks I've always purchase progressive front springs and use 7 to 10 weight oil, which works for my weight. I have also pre-load with PCV pipe. So I end with damn near perfect suspension for about 100.00 bucks. THE COST OF THOSE PROGRESSIVE SPRINGS. I'm still working off the original length of pcv pipe I purchased 10 years ago.

[Penderic]

The stock shocks are harsh.

Not because of the springs, because of the stock damper unit has way too much compression dampening...

I put the stock springs on a after market set of rear shocks (the after market springs started to rust) and got them to work very well.

http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=68965.msg1067270#msg1067270

But most after market shocks with an adjuster for compression dampening will work great when the sag and dampening levels are set properly.

http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=53459.0



I now target rough spots in the road just to see how well my 09 classic V7 goes over them! Superb! What a difference compared to the stock dampeners.

 

[rocker59]

MY experience... . I've come to the conclusion that any stock rear shock can be made to work.
 

In my experience, the stock V7 Classic shocks were perfectly adequate.  Though, they lacked travel and needed more damping.  

Adequate, with lots of room for improvement.  

Something a little longer, with a little more travel and with good adjustable damping would be worlds better.  Screw adjustment preload would be an improvement, too.

[raul]

Telling me "this works for me" really doesn't tell me much without knowing what you weigh.  Plus, everyone is different in their experience and expectations.  I am interested in the aftermarket shocks and look forward to reading about everyone's experience, but please remember to include your weight.

[rocker59]

I weigh 240 and have a passenger that weighs about half that.

The stock rear shocks on my 2010 were harsh.  Too much compression damping and not enough rebound damping.

I ran with them in the highest preload setting.  Anything less and the bottoming was worse.

I'd imagine that an average rider who weighs 150-170 would get beat to death with the stock rear shocks.

That being said, I've ridden much worse.  Stock Sportster and stock Bonneville come to mind, and I'm used to riding monoshock sporty bikes with Ohlins and WP rear shocks that work really well.

[sturgeon]

I'm with Penderic. I'm 180 without gear, and I have yet to bottom them out. And I ride all kinds of road. I just did 10 km on gravel and had to stand up for the washboard parts for fear of losing my teeth. The damping on the OE shocks (2014 Special) is harsh in the extreme. I don't expect the Ikons to be like the Elka on my 800GS, but for the kind of riding I do on the V7, they should be perfectly adequate. They certainly can't be worse!

[Cam3512]

I was thinking of getting the Ikons too, and saw 7614-2003 on AF1's site for $429, does seem like a pretty good deal...  I wonder if they make them in chrome finish also, to keep the same look on the back of the bike.

http://www.mgcycle.com/product_info.php?products_id=2632

[sturgeon]

P.S. The OE shocks on mine have threaded adjustment for preload rather than the stepped thing. Doesn't make them any better :-)

[rbond]

I have a new 2012 V7 Classic, weigh 250 and ran the spring pre-load all the way down. For me it was a big improvement, still could use some more, the seat is next. This one is like an upholstered board.

[V7stone]

Telling me "this works for me" really doesn't tell me much without knowing what you weigh.  Plus, everyone is different in their experience and expectations.  I am interested in the aftermarket shocks and look forward to reading about everyone's experience, but please remember to include your weight.

Ok, I weigh about 230 (probably a bit big for a v7 lol), and my passenger is about 150...  what preload setting should I be setting for myself to ride, and should I change it anytime we both get on for a ride, and to what setting? I don't think I'm bottoming out the shocks on it, it just feels very stiff and bumpy over even the smallest bumps.

[V7stone]

I have a new 2012 V7 Classic, weigh 250 and ran the spring pre-load all the way down. For me it was a big improvement, still could use some more, the seat is next. This one is like an upholstered board.

rbond, does "ran the spring pre-load all the way down" mean that you loosened it up so the seat sags more, and makes for a less bumpy ride? or the opposite?  I'm about to try adjusting the pre-load for first time on this, from the stock setting, and don't want to make it worse.

[jetmechmarty]

I would recommend you buy shocks from somebody who can get you a proper spring rate.  We know what bike you have, what you weigh, and what your passenger weighs.  We also know you want a smooth ride.  You probably need 30-40 mm of laden sag.  Buy shocks from somebody who will give you what you need.  YSS or Hagon shocks should get you there for $500 and maybe a good bit less.  Bitubo may be in that category as well.

You may want to consider straight rate springs for the forks as well.  Get the laden sag to match front to back.  You can transform this bike from one size fits all to custom made just for you without breaking the bank.  Just do it right.

Traxxion Dynamics or RaceTech can help you, but RaceTech does not sell budget shocks or even get close.  Check with Hagon USA or YSS.  You have a lot more choices if your pockets are deep.

Here is a little help setting laden sag:
http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/howto/122_0508_motorcycle_suspension_setup/

[Kev m]

If you're 230 w/o gear you will probably want to add preload. I guess that's 'down' in this thread, as the nut moves down from the top of the shock to add preload. Try measuring static sag- we only have 4 inches of total travel and at 250-ish with gear and the stock setup you're probably using 3 of those inches just sitting on the bike. I'd probably be aiming for about 1 inch of sag.

I'm sure not (using three inches of sag).

I'm in the 220's

[makarushka]

As mentioned already, to find out if the suspension rates are correct for you, you measure the sags, free and rider/race, first thing, and these numbers together in relation to used/available preload and the total length of your suspension travel tell you right away whether your spring rate is in the ballpark or not. It's a basic starting point that takes half the "black art" notion out of the suspension tuning process. It also enables one to make a better educated decision on whether this upgrade is needed or not.

At 230lbs, the stock suspension is hopelessly undersprung for you; let alone for the two of you. The stock suspension from the racer will not help either. Yes you can crank the hell out of that preload but you'll run out of free sag, and a "smoothest possible riding" will just not happen, unless it's in a straight line, steady pace, on a glass-smooth road.

Getting just about ANY brand shocks but with a proper spring rate (and, ideally, valved accordingly) for your weight will be a massive improvement. Whether or not the higher-priced stuff will be worth it to you and whether you want extra adjustability is entirely a matter of your riding preferences but just about any shock with a proper spring rate and valving for your weight will be much better than a mismatched stocker. Same goes for the forks, which are best addressed at the same time, or the difference will be all the more drastic.

I weigh circa 235lbs in full gear, and found the stock suspension on my Racer rideable but not much more. I went for the full Mupo kit and am very happy with it, though will be still doing adjustments on the forks. If the Matris fork kit with the preload-adjustable fork caps was available at the time, that's what I would have ordered. The Mupo fork kit works very well but is just an emulator not unlike the RaceTech Gold valve and I am sure you can get very similar results from any of these. I would have also loved to have both high and low compression damping adjustability on the shocks but the only shock I found that had it was from Wilbers, and it only mounts with the reservoir down, which I personally do not like.

There are now quite a bit of options for the shocks in various price ranges, from Ikon and Hagons to Gazi to Matris, Mupo, Wilbers (upside-down mount only) and Racetech. For the forks, less options for a drop-in kit but at least Racetech, Mupo, and Matris do provide one for similar money, $300-$400. Can't speak for the others but the Mupo was a most simplistic drop-in installation.

It would be good to have a comparative discussion as to what specific sag numbers people have found to work best for them on these bikes; separate thread maybe? I have a set of numbers, measurements and observations I could start with...

[makarushka]

I'm sure not (using three inches of sag).

Agreed, based both on the specs and experience... Front is supposedly 130mm full travel, rear at 118mm; 25.4mm (1") is perhaps ok for the FREE front sag but surely too little for RIDER sag, front OR rear.

I'm in the 220's

Kev, what free sag do you get with your 3" rider sag number?

[sonicboom]

I did notice on a test drive of a 2014 v7 the suspension felt a bit harsh. I remember hitting a bump that should have been of no consequence, however the feedback was unusually jarring.

Guess i'll find out when I buy the bike.

Had the same exact issue with the Bonneville, was able to dial it all in for the price of progressive front springs with a few adjustments to  rear pre load.

[Kev m]

Agreed, based both on the specs and experience... Front is supposedly 130mm full travel, rear at 118mm; 25.4mm (1") is perhaps ok for the FREE front sag but surely too little for RIDER sag, front OR rear.

Kev, what free sag do you get with your 3" rider sag number?

I forget free sag, but rider sag is a little over an inch, maybe close the 1.5 (I'd have to check), with preload more than an inch from max.

Remember, the Special/Stone use different shocks than the Racer.

[guzzipete]

I have the stock shock absorbers on my 2013 V7 stone, basically feeling every bump in the road, and it's much worse on my wife's behind when she rides with me. What are the smoothest riding aftermarket shocks for a V7 stone that won't break the bank? And has anyone had much success with adjusting the pre-load on the stock shocks?

I have a pair of Ikons that came off my 2009 V7 Classic. I had them rebuilt last year and never reinstalled them. They are basically new. Model number is 7610-1623 and the springs are chrome. New price was $453 including shipping.

You can have them for $200 plus shipping if you live in the continental US.

The shocks have been sold.

[pyoungbl]

I doubt the stock shocks are too stiff.  You're probably bottoming them out.  The bikes don't have a lot of suspension travel.  Have you adjusted the preload to the highest position?

Good shocks that will work properly will not be cheap.  Todd at Guzzitech can fix you up.

The stock setup is supposed to give 3.93" of travel (page 190 of the owners manual) and I challenge anyone to actually get that with the OEM shocks.   At 200# with gear I found the OEM shocks to be like an iron bar...launching my ass off the seat when we hit an expansion joint.  Adjusting the preload to the lowest position made the ride a bit less harsh, but not much.  Replacement shocks from RT (through Todd) have been an improvement but I have had to send them back twice.  The good news is that RT has worked with Todd to get the shocks to fit.  The most recent iteration has me mounting the shocks upside down and now I have clearance for a rear rack.  I'm still evaluating the valving so can't comment on that yet but the spring rate is better as is the valving.  The OEM shocks are really too stiff and that is compounded by horrible valving.  Looking for a cheap solution...good luck with that.  IMHO upgrading the suspension is the best money you can spend on a bike.  After that you can add the farkles.

The forks are another challenge and I am still working on that too.  Once this is all sorted out I'll have a sweet V7!

Peter Y.

[sturgeon]

...

The forks are another challenge and I am still working on that too.  Once this is all sorted out I'll have a sweet V7!

Peter Y.

Peter, I`ve been pondering the Matris fork kit (for the newer Kaifa forks):

http://www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=61597

[V7stone]

At 200# with gear I found the OEM shocks to be like an iron bar...launching my ass off the seat when we hit an expansion joint. 

LOL, I couldn't have said it better myself, the smallest bumps can literally get me rising off the seat...  can you possibly provide a link to the RT shocks you have, so we can check them out? This is exactly the kind of feedback I was looking for, someone who's bike is as bumpy as mine  :D

[sturgeon]

Mine are a launch platform too, worthy of missions to Mars! At first I put it down to being too used to much better suspension. Couple of days later I came to my senses, after the 4th or 5th speed bump turned into Evel-Kneivel-worthy jumps. I just figured it'd been said so many times, it wasn't worth repeating.

[pyoungbl]

LOL, I couldn't have said it better myself, the smallest bumps can literally get me rising off the seat...  can you possibly provide a link to the RT shocks you have, so we can check them out? This is exactly the kind of feedback I was looking for, someone who's bike is as bumpy as mine  :D

The shocks I'm using now are RaceTech, can't remember the model number now.  The basic RT shock did not give enough clearance for aftermarket luggage racks so they came up with a mod that requires mounting the shocks upside down.  They still work fine.  I had RT soften up the valving in order to make the ride more supple.  Todd at GuzziTech has all the details.  Finally the shocks seem to be about right.

 It is important to get both front and rear suspension working together.  Right now I feel that my front is still way too stiff so that's the next adjustment.  I have RT springs and emulators in the forks.  RT says that the spring rate is correct, yet I can't get the sag to make sense or get anything like full suspension travel.  More to follow. 

Last weekend I put 1200 miles on my Stelvio NTX.  That suspension is a real joy and probably why I am pushing to sort out the V7.  Once you ride a good suspension system it spoils you for anything less.

Peter Y.

[sonicboom]

I've never heard of shocks this bad. I've got an extra set of OEM Bonneville shocks, may try to see if those will work.