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Valves 8k ago, I only put about 2500 miles a year on her. I will probably do the both because, as you say, I will be a third of the way there. Glad to have an independent Duc mechanic who has probably done it close to a thousand times.
The 750's were the slowest of the Monsters. Even the later 620's had more horsepower and were quicker.
I ride both a Griso and a Monster.............. Whilst both bikes are 'street' bikes, riding my Griso back to back with the Monster is like chalk and cheese. The weight, sharpness of streering and pep of the throttle is very different.I consider the Griso to be my steady brisk bike. The Monster has a nick name.....ferret on steroids! .....
Back about 7 years ago I had a Paso 750. I changed the belts and check the valves,which where in spec, wasn't very hard to do.
I saw a booth at COTA last year with a business selling hardened shims and/or valve adjustment parts for Ducatis. Their sign claimed that you could double the interval for valve adjustments. I have no idea if it worked or caused damage to the valve train. I think they were California based.
Two valve ducks are easy.. 4 valve? Not so much. ;D
... (does it have a metal tank?) other than a plastic fuel filter.
Buy it! At that price, you can have some fun and if it turns out to just be a fling instead of true love, you should have no problem getting your investment back on it.
Peter, forgive me, but I'm a little skeptical about those valve adjustment intervals. AFAIK on the air-cooled motors they USED to be 3k, were lengthened to 7.5k around EDIT - 08 or so (like with our 2011 696) and never exceeded that (unless it's after the first couple of valve checks). EDIT - I'm seeing conflicting info.My 11 696 owner's manual (and I'm pretty sure Jays 14 796) both clearly state valves are done every 7500 for every interval listed.BUT I've got a chart from DMF, it's a little unclear but it LOOKS LIKE IT IS FROM DUCATI and it LOOKS to me like they are saying there were two intervals depending on model.7500 and 15000 The CHART suggests that after the first service your intervals are right and my owner's manual is wrong (maybe superseded - I'll ask this spring when we bring Jenn's 696 in for the 7500 mile service).The CHART suggests 7500 models were checked at 7500 for the FIRST CHECK ONLY - then every 15000 - i.e. 73.5k, 22.5k, 37.5k, 52.5k15000 models were checked at 15000 for each check (first included) - so 15k, 30k, 45k, 60k.I'll be very curious to see how that turns out.
The notchy throttle is probably more a function of the extra tall gearing. Up the rear sprocket 2 teeth and 1st gear actually becomes usable.
Kev, wondering if you have an opinion. My service quote is $160 for belts and $400 for valves. It has 18k miles and is running perfectly, never abused. I suspect the valves will not need adjustment, as the 2 valves tend to settle in with more miles. Should I just do belts since it's been three years and leave the valves alone?
I know that's the corporate line. I'm just finding more and more like-minded people who feel the time limit is very conservative.
I'm going for a test ride tomorrow and if it checks out OK, I'm buying... I have sinned, please forgive me!
Thank you for the pre-emptive absolution, I bought the Yamaha!
I won't disagree with your approach, and at the risk of contadicting myself, the S4 I run has had the same belts for 4 years and about 6k milage. The difficulty is I have known guys who have not changed their belts after 2 yrs/ 12k and the belts have snapped! It's a lottery as I see it, play the odds or follow Ducati's recommended service intervals.Also on the subject of belts changes, on both the 2V and 4V, changing belts is a matter of patience and a few dedicated tools, i.e a cam wheel lock on the 4V makes the process much easier.
Hmm , this hardened shim discussion sounds familiar . Still don't understand how a hardened shim increases service intervals , isn't the wear at the valve/valve seat interface , and the cam/cam follower contact . The shims just take up the slack , correct ? Dusty
Is the wear at the valve and seat on a Desmo? I would think the difference in valve actuation greatly changes the force of closing valves, but I could be wrong.
collets
^^^ If you have little or no track time, I suggest a Suzuki SV650. The power is more tractable for a beginner, and you'll be as fast if not faster in the corners. You'll be slower on the straights, but it's a track day, not a race, so who cares? Any monkey can twist a throttle; the skill you're developing is cornering skill. If you like the Ducati Monster, well, the SV is the poor man's Monster. Plus, decent used ones go for about half of what decent used supersports go for ($2K vs. $4K), so when (not if) you throw the bike down the track, it will hurt a bit less (at least, financially).