Author Topic: V50 Restoration  (Read 853 times)

Offline riguzzi

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V50 Restoration
« on: August 07, 2021, 07:12:42 PM »
I just picked up 2 V50 barn finds... each with 25000 miles on them. They're actually in pretty good condition (I guess a dry garage), though tight from sitting for so long. Of course, all the rubber stuff is deteriorated as are the brakes.

I popped the head off the worse one and the cylinders look fine, though I will pull the barrels on both and clean them out. I was able to free both the engines with just a little work. I was wondering if I should replace the exhaust valves, and maybe springs while I'm in there?

Online Antietam Classic Cycle

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Re: V50 Restoration
« Reply #1 on: August 07, 2021, 07:35:56 PM »
V50 II or III? Valves for the II are smaller and apparently less likely to fail. Also seem to be in short supply. III valves are the same size as V65 and are readily available. I'd run 'em and keep and eye on valve clearances - if they start closing up on a regular basis, then rebuild the heads with better valves and maybe the Nevada springs.
« Last Edit: August 08, 2021, 08:40:07 AM by Antietam Classic Cycle »
Charlie

Offline riguzzi

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Re: V50 Restoration
« Reply #2 on: August 07, 2021, 07:59:55 PM »
V50 II. The heads look good... a little carbon buildup, but nothing bad. All original and complete save for 1 muffler, side covers and a few other bits. One seat is pretty bad... might put a cafe seat on one. I'll start posting photos once I really get into them. Right now just looking to see how much work/money is involved.

Online huub

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Re: V50 Restoration
« Reply #3 on: August 17, 2021, 09:10:58 AM »
if you have the heads off, do fit nevada valve springs.
I have seen enough dropped V50 valves , not to run any smallblock with the pre 1990 valve springs.
it simply makes no sense to safe 40 euro and cause a blown engine.
changing exhaust valves is a good idea too, if you dont know the history of the engine.

i used to change the exhaust valves every 50.000 km on my V65TT as a precaution.
even with new valves , if the valve clearance disappears between maintenances, it is time to change the exhaust valves.



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Re: V50 Restoration
« Reply #3 on: August 17, 2021, 09:10:58 AM »

Offline riguzzi

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Re: V50 Restoration
« Reply #4 on: August 22, 2021, 01:24:52 PM »
if you have the heads off, do fit nevada valve springs.
I have seen enough dropped V50 valves , not to run any smallblock with the pre 1990 valve springs.

Makes good sense. I was going to lap the valves etc. anyway, so I may as well replace them. I just pulled one barrel and the rings were stuck from sitting... I may do new rings as well.

This is a picture of the bikes as I got them:




Offline riguzzi

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Re: V50 Restoration
« Reply #5 on: August 23, 2021, 08:41:01 AM »
Looks like these springs do not need an inner/outer and should do the trick?

https://www.stein-dinse.biz/product_info.php?products_id=460271

Online huub

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Re: V50 Restoration
« Reply #6 on: August 25, 2021, 03:04:56 AM »
Looks like these springs do not need an inner/outer and should do the trick?

https://www.stein-dinse.biz/product_info.php?products_id=460271

correct,  in 1990 the two springs were replaced by a single progressive wound spring that is over 40% softer.
you will need to file the top reatainer a little, the new spring is a friction smaller in diameter.
( i just spin them in the lathe/drill and use a chainsaw file)
the spring should move around easily in the retainer.

Offline riguzzi

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Re: V50 Restoration
« Reply #7 on: September 07, 2021, 10:18:24 AM »
Anyone have an idea of where can I can replacement keys for the gas tank? One of them is missing it's key.

Online Antietam Classic Cycle

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Re: V50 Restoration
« Reply #8 on: September 07, 2021, 07:11:24 PM »
Anyone have an idea of where can I can replacement keys for the gas tank? One of them is missing it's key.

Not the same as the ignition switch? Would have been originally. Is there a number stamped on the face of the lock next to the key slot?
Charlie

Offline twowings

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Re: V50 Restoration
« Reply #9 on: September 07, 2021, 09:26:45 PM »
Eargerly looking foward to following this one  :bow:
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Offline riguzzi

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Re: V50 Restoration
« Reply #10 on: September 08, 2021, 12:47:29 PM »
I don't have the ignition switch either: it has 1588 stamped on both the tank and switch. Interestingly, the one that I do have keys for seems to have had the switch replaced as it's different from the other bike, and switch does not have any visible numbers.

Not the same as the ignition switch? Would have been originally. Is there a number stamped on the face of the lock next to the key slot?

Offline riguzzi

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Re: V50 Restoration
« Reply #11 on: September 08, 2021, 01:06:24 PM »
This will go a little more slowly than I'd like as I'm trying to finish up an Aermacchi Sprint first. I did get the rings out of the stuck piston, and popped a caliper off to evaluate how bad things were. The cylinder bores look great (still have visible hone marks). The only slight concern is some scuffing on one piston.. nothing serious, but worth noting.

Based on inspection I bought the obvious replacement bits (for both bikes):

  • Rings
  • 27.4mm exhaust valve sets
  • valve springs
  • Caliper rebuild kits
  • Master cylinder rebuild kits
  • Brake pads
  • Carb rebuild kits
  • Inlet boots (they were perished)
  • Choke cables

I bought enough valve springs for both inlet and exhaust. Can I use the springs above for both sides?

This should be enough to get them running and driving. Thankfully, these bikes must have been stored in very dry conditions (probably a dry garage with windows as the paint is faded), and were cared for. I'll obviously have to replace tires and seat covers (one seat base very badly rusted and will need to be replaced). Any recommendations for tires?

I'll decide later if they need to be repainted based on how well the paint comes back. They're only original once.
« Last Edit: September 08, 2021, 03:12:40 PM by riguzzi »

Online Antietam Classic Cycle

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Re: V50 Restoration
« Reply #12 on: September 08, 2021, 09:04:34 PM »
I don't have the ignition switch either: it has 1588 stamped on both the tank and switch. Interestingly, the one that I do have keys for seems to have had the switch replaced as it's different from the other bike, and switch does not have any visible numbers.

1588 is the key code, you can have keys cut to that code by Keys4Classics.com.

This will go a little more slowly than I'd like as I'm trying to finish up an Aermacchi Sprint first. I did get the rings out of the stuck piston, and popped a caliper off to evaluate how bad things were. The cylinder bores look great (still have visible hone marks). The only slight concern is some scuffing on one piston.. nothing serious, but worth noting.

Based on inspection I bought the obvious replacement bits (for both bikes):

  • Rings
  • 27.4mm exhaust valve sets
  • valve springs
  • Caliper rebuild kits
  • Master cylinder rebuild kits
  • Brake pads
  • Carb rebuild kits
  • Inlet boots (they were perished)
  • Choke cables

I bought enough valve springs for both inlet and exhaust. Can I use the springs above for both sides?

This should be enough to get them running and driving. Thankfully, these bikes must have been stored in very dry conditions (probably a dry garage with windows as the paint is faded), and were cared for. I'll obviously have to replace tires and seat covers (one seat base very badly rusted and will need to be replaced). Any recommendations for tires?

I'll decide later if they need to be repainted based on how well the paint comes back. They're only original once.

Valve springs are the same for both intake and exhaust, so yes.

Some of the tires that I'd recommend are in short supply right now and all of them cost more than before. Conti Go! would be a good choice, as would the Avon AM26 Roadrider. Being a cheap bastage, I went for a Kenda K671 Cruiser 90/90-18 front and Shinko 712 110/90-18 rear. Cost a whopping $130 for the pair shipped from American Moto Tire. The 712 I've used a few times before (great tire IMO) but not the Kenda. Rode my V50 III 150 miles last Saturday and am very happy with both.


Charlie

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Re: V50 Restoration
« Reply #13 on: September 25, 2021, 03:28:43 PM »
I like the Avon AM26 on my v50ii. Itís hard to source the skinny front tire so grab it when you see it. The more I ride the bike the more I see it as a great small tourer. The former owner went cross country with his wife with a BMS fairing fitted.
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Offline riguzzi

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Re: V50 Restoration
« Reply #14 on: October 25, 2021, 09:53:16 PM »
I'm starting to get into these as the winter approaches. I got new keys made and with the parts from Germany I'm in pretty good shape. One exhaust stud broke and another came out entirely as the nuts were seized and the studs were rusted. Does anyone have a recommendation for replacement exhaust studs? I was thinking of using full steel studs with copper or brass nuts.

Offline Pescatore

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Re: V50 Restoration
« Reply #15 on: November 01, 2021, 12:52:12 PM »


I'm starting to get into these as the winter approaches. I got new keys made and with the parts from Germany I'm in pretty good shape. One exhaust stud broke and another came out entirely as the nuts were seized and the studs were rusted. Does anyone have a recommendation for replacement exhaust studs? I was thinking of using full steel studs with copper or brass nuts.

I also had seized studs and nuts.  I was able to get the studs out, but the nuts are stuck to them.
Harpers had new studs.  Steins had the wrong parts. This was two years ago.
I could not find the nuts, nor something similar anywhere.  I gave up and used these instead:  https://www.mcmaster.com/94150A345/
They are not the same thickness and I added spring washers (https://www.mcmaster.com/92161A052/)  The washers seem weak and probably useless,
but it felt right to add them.
I re-torqued the nuts after a few heat cycles.  They had not moved.  I added a second nut as a lock.

I had to buy a pack of 50 nuts.  If you want to try them, send me a PM and I'll ship you some.
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Online Antietam Classic Cycle

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Re: V50 Restoration
« Reply #16 on: November 01, 2021, 04:04:09 PM »

I also had seized studs and nuts.  I was able to get the studs out, but the nuts are stuck to them.
Harpers had new studs.  Steins had the wrong parts. This was two years ago.
I could not find the nuts, nor something similar anywhere.  I gave up and used these instead:  https://www.mcmaster.com/94150A345/
They are not the same thickness and I added spring washers (https://www.mcmaster.com/92161A052/)  The washers seem weak and probably useless,
but it felt right to add them.
I re-torqued the nuts after a few heat cycles.  They had not moved.  I added a second nut as a lock.

I had to buy a pack of 50 nuts.  If you want to try them, send me a PM and I'll ship you some.

I have the same job to do at some point in the future. I'll probably use stainless steel coupling nuts and trim them to length in the lathe.
https://www.mcmaster.com/90111A332 .

I haven't had the studs out yet, but McMaster-Carr likely has something that will work. These may not have the correct dimensions, just using it as an example.
https://www.mcmaster.com/5580N111
Charlie

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