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General Discussion / Re: Louder horn recommendation for 26 V7 E5?

« Last post by malik on April 15, 2026, 08:23:23 PM »

I've installed the Hella Strong Tone (don't know if it's available in your knock of the woods). The same size clamshell as stock, so fits easily in the same places, at least on my early V7s, uses the existing connectors. Comes as a pair, each with different tones.

Without a relay at present, but I've recently come across a YouTube video of a bloke fitting a new hornset to a V100 Mandello - uses the original horn wires as triggers to the relay - easily doable once if figure out where I can mount the fuseblock.

General Discussion / Re: Small block clutch

« Last post by malik on April 15, 2026, 08:10:41 PM »

BMC - keep in touch & let us know how it works.

I did get a second hand V85 clutch pack while it was available. Sitting on the shelf, waiting. It will likely be a while before either of my V7's clutch push rod seal fails again, but now I'm prepared. It's also a function of how many clutch cables I go through before then.

General Discussion / Re: Service stand

« Last post by malik on April 15, 2026, 07:57:48 PM »

Note that Stein Dinse make & sell a stand for the V7 (when it doesn't have a centrestand) (fits the 750 Breva too). It's hard to find on their site - look under "SD Tech". Works well, not really expensive, but nowadays depends on freight costs & exchange rates.

General Discussion / Whose Knocking? V85TT Clutch Noise

« Last post by WannabeADV on April 15, 2026, 07:41:21 PM »

Hello all,

My 2022 V85TT has developed a persistent knock when the clutch lever is pulled. The knock appears as soon as tension is placed on the cable all the way to complete lever pull for disengagement of the clutch. The normal dry clutch clatter can be heard when in neutral and the clutch engaged. There is just over 15300 miles on it.

Transmission and Diff fluid have been changed within the first thousand miles after turning 10k.

The characteristics of this knock are:
- Typical crisp engine noises when on a cold start and the clutch in disengaged.
- Only appears when the engine is warmed up and stays persistent after warming up.
- This knock only happens when the clutch lever is pulled in, regardless of gear the transmission is in.
- There is a subtle sharp vibration that can be felt though the bike on any hard surface, not the seat, when the noise is made when the clutch is disengaged.
- The clutch slack is in its correct placement, about 3-4mm of gap at the lever hinge. It makes this noise whether the clutch has more or less slack, as long as its disengaged.
- The sound is primarily coming from the lower right side of the engine.
- There has been ZERO performance issues in shifting or clutch engagement. No slips. No shudders. Smooth engagement in 1st. Bangs though gears with no problem or fight. The occasional neutral hits while going into second. It has always been like this, I tend to ask it to go into gear instead of telling it every now and then.

Has anyone experienced this issue?
Does anyone have any knowledge on what it could be?
Am I going to go broke at the dealer?

Any help would be greatly appreciated before I have no choice but to bring it to my dealership.

Here is a link to the sound:
https://youtube.com/shorts/JGDwfoMMvfI?si=msM3EXVJ-U-9CIOS

General Discussion / Re: When did riders stop saying "You can take if for a spin if you want!"

« Last post by Joliet Jim on April 15, 2026, 07:35:58 PM »

Quote from: Tom on April 15, 2026, 05:29:57 PM

Most cases, it's only friends that I know. YMMV

My wife still remembers her ride on the back of your Rosso Mandelo. First and last time on the back of a sport bike.

General Discussion / Re: NO-OX-ID vs. Dielectric Grease: When/Where to Use Which?

« Last post by Wayne Orwig on April 15, 2026, 07:05:34 PM »

Dielectric/silicone grease out gases. If it is near a switch or relay, the contacts can get coated with silicon dioxide or something like that. Basically, sand. And they fail.
Some manufacturers even say that the silicone gas can penetrate a sealed switch or relay and recommend you keep dielectric grease a few miles away.
I occasionally use dielectric grease to help seal something like a spark plug boot but keep it far far away from switches and relays.
I often use Caig Deoxit on a connector. Deoxit actually improves the connection by dissolving corrosion. Dielectric grease can only make the connection worse. Deoxit is pricey (cheap Guzzista) so I use a cheap cleaner first, then follow with Deoxit.
I have zero info on NO-OX-ID.

.

General Discussion / Re: 2007 Breva….tell me what to look for

« Last post by Kev m on April 15, 2026, 07:04:10 PM »

I don't know if the 1200 or the Norge was different, but it wasn't the cat on the B11 that was the problem.

I've not owned a single other bike that left me swampy in the shorts, even in the dead of summer.

Not any of 7 Harleys/Buell

Not the other 3 Guzzis

Not the 3 BMWs

Not the Ducati

Not the various JAPanInc products I had over the years

Not any of the many demos and press bikes from all of the above, and Indian, and Victory.

It seemed to be a simple formula of complete lack of airflow anywhere near the trousers,b perhaps combined with some of the radiating engine heat.

Never solved it. But enjoyed it each winter.

I could be wrong, but I think he’s asking about the tires themselves. That said, it would be pretty goofy of Guzzi to offer a tubed* tire as the stock tire on a cast tubeless rim on a ‘premium’ line. I don’t know for sure, but I bet this is another fail for the AI writeups.

*I wasn’t paying attention and first wrote tubeless.

Many (most?) tubeless tires also say ok to use a tube when installed on tube type wheels.