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As I understand it, the VR1 racing oils don't have the additive packages (ie detergents) for multi thousand mile change intervals as it's designed for basically a race at a time. What I do know is safe are motorcycle specific oils. Be they syn or dino. Primarily because of combined use as a trans lube as well in most bikes. They do have more than sufficient ZDDP levels. If you stick with MC specific 20w50 oils you can hardly go wrong. Now there are some diesel oils that are M rated for bikes. I believe the Rotella syn 5w40 diesel oil. I tried that for a few changes but went back to MC specific 20w50 oil. The motors just ran quieter with the heavier weight oil down in the hot Florida climate.
My experience with Castrol. I used 15w-50 GTX for about 30 years in my T3 until a couple of cam followers went tits up twice in a two year period. The camshaft is fine, so something was changed, be it zddp, anti corrosive additives or what ever. Rotella T 15w-40 in use now for about 6 years with no problem. Granted, since 1977, a lot of changes have taken place be it with formulations, corporate owners, bottlers, quality control variations. About the only thing unchanged is the name on the bottle.
Isn't a MC specific oil formulated based on the presence of a wet clutch? That's my reason for not making that rating the top consideration when oil shopping for my Guzzi. :BEER:
Don't understand why this would concern you? What will kill a wet clutch are some of those 'special' additives they put in some oils, that they don't do on MC oils. But your bike, your choice.
"Many people say .... "
I use vr1 in everything that does not have a cat. Brad Penn oil is great when you can find it or have the for thought to order online.
Brad Penn is not available here in Germany.An eBay search shows me "The tree of life" with Brad Pitt and Sean Penn, but no oil! :-)Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
https://mobiloil.com/~/media/amer/us/pvl/files/pdfs/mobil-1-oil-product-specs-guide.ashx
Y'know, some o' you suspender-snappers have been hanging around here since the day the dinosaurs gave up the goo that we now run in our iron horses. The rest of us FNGs are still playing catch up; learning about ZDDP, unobtanium and all the other garbage that goes into the making of Guzzi-grade snake oil.I know oil threads are tedious. Still, how about a little slack?Lateness.
Yes, I also researched the Mobil 1 v Twin, but that is also not available here. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ain't nobody stoppin' you from talking about oil all day and all night, and stiff-leggin' around each other and saying "Oh yeah? Well, you're another!" and claiming that other people are idiots and re-used chainsaw oil is just as good as anything else, and claiming that your engine will blow sky-high if you don't use Amsoil which I have for sale at only $20 a demi-semi-liter, and talking about this study and that study and the other study and Bob the Oil Man and how you work for an oil refinery and I'll tell YOU about oil, mate, and all that. No more harm in folks talking all that stuff over for the 300th time than there is in me saying that it's all been done 300 times ..... ;-TLannis
With all due respect, I don't recall "stiff leggin'" anybody and I don't see any one else doing that either.
But go ahead. I'm just commenting, like everyone else.
I would be comfortable with 1400ppm. I use the VR1 in the silver bottle. We get it for about 4 dollars a Qt at the neighborhood parts store. The low detergent oil has NOT FOR STREET USE written big and clear on it. I have not seen that for sale at my local parts store. The blue bottle is there synthetic and probably cost more. I have no experience with it.