Grisos, Shorty Clutch Levers, Those Pushrod Adjuster Thingos and Micro Switch...

[Tazturtle]

Dear Wild Guzzi Doctor.

On the clutch levers fitted to Grisos, 1200 Sports etc there is the notorious (allegedly "removable") pushrod that operates the hydraulic clutch cylinder.

I have bought a new set of shorty levers for my 1200 Sport, but despite applying lots of WD40, heat and  using a brand new quality 1.5mm allen key, I'll be damned if I can get the grub screw loosened that will allow me to swap the pushrod onto my new levers. I note a lot of people have the same problem, while others breeze through it. Luigi!!!

I know that I can buy a brand new pushrod for the new lever from AF1: http://www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=7756 but the standard one has a small tab that operates a microswitch below the lever, that the new one lacks.

What is this microswitch for? Would it matter if I installed the AF1 pushrod that effectively stops the microswitch being activated?

Yours sincerely

Confused!

[guzzisteve]

The micro-switch is part of the IDIOT system, it prevents you from being embarrassingly stupid in front of others.

It is connected to the Stupid Logic Relay along w/neutral, sidestand, and other crap for your own safety.

[Tazturtle]

Aah OK. Thanks Steve.

I'll happily bypass it and take my chances then!

The Sport starts without the clutch lever being pulled (unlike the V7) so I assume it's to cut the engine if it is out and in gear with the sidestand down.

[hhkiwi]

I may be wrong but I think if the switch is no longer active you won't be able start the engine with a gear engaged. In other words, when you pull the clutch lever, the switch tells the bike's brain that it's OK to start the engine even with a gear engaged, i.e. not in neutral.

The set screw is usually secured with blue Loctite. I managed to get mine out by heating it up with a cigarette lighter. It does need to get really hot for the Loctite to break down.

[Tazturtle]

I'll give it another try with an open flame instead of a heat gun then - thanks.

Kurt

[Mayor_of_BBQ]

I laid mine on the electric stove eye.. Just propped it so just the plunger was touching got it real hot.


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[Vasco DG]

Heat and very good, ie accurately measured, Allen keys are the trick.

Obviously the ability of the key to deliver the required torque is dependent on it being a very close fit in the screw and the proportional inhibiting of the locking medium will increase the smaller the thread.

Using a propane torch will get the locking medium to melt but in a case like this it is far better to not pussy-foot around! Propane heat won't melt the screw or barrel. It might, if you held the torch on it for hours on a really hot day, weaken the alloy of the lever, but I doubt it. What you do have to do is make sure it's as hot as buggery before you try and turn the key and heat the key in-situ in the screw. Yes, this means you'll have to use a rag to hold the key and don't try holding the lever in a vice. All a vice is in this instance is a very big heat sink! You'll waste a LOT of gas getting it really hot! Using rags to hold stuff will, if you're careful, revent you from burning yourself. Thing is with heat sometimes shit happens and you'll burn yourself. Oddly enough this will always be your own fault so take a lot of care and if you do get a blister? HTFU and get over it. Pain is nature's way of telling you you've done something dumb!

Pete

[Tazturtle]

Good advice Pete.

Heated the pushrod grub screw over a gas hotplate till it was smoking and it came loose beautifully.

The new third degree burns to 70% of my body will serve as a reminder of my mechanical limitations! ;p

Kurt

[Perazzimx14]

For anyone else attempting this replacements are readily available if you can't get or botch up the stocker.

   http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=5&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CC4QFjAE&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.af1racing.com%2Fstore%2FScripts%2FprodView.asp%3Fidproduct%3D7756&ei=L0CdVO7kOcSrgwTWy4HYBQ&usg=AFQjCNESHnqzyQ1ce_lBr48XXK0rYHwIrQ

[Tazturtle]

Yeah they are the ones I linked to in my original post - they don't have the actuator tab on the bottom of the barrel that operates the microswitch. (linking clutch, gearbox and possibly sidestand)

Kurt

[organfixsing]

I hadn't researched this blog about softening the blue Loctite unfortunately and drilled out the grub screw with a 2.5mm drill. The remaining threads I removed using a spare 3mm screw with a slot cut into the end with a needle file (junior hacksaw?). I turned down the outside if a countersunk screwhead so that it was still usable and used that. I didn't measure the length of the screw but probably about 6mm. The pushrod thread was a little damaged by the drilling exercise, but not too badly. I now have a little free play in the clutch lever where before there was none.

Cheers
Brian ROMA QLD  ::) ::)

[Waterbottle]

Good Work Taz
Hey Brian from Roma, PM sent

[dguzzi]

Ah Grasshopper, we will learn coefficient of friction as well.

[boatdetective]

Just a mention that Pete's recommentation that you have good allen keys is something to remember. I bought a bunch from Bondhus. They really do seem to fit better. Quality product and well worth the investment.