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That means that once cornering (given that it is a constant curve and you got it just right) you could take your hands off the bars until it's time to straighten up again (or turn out of the curve). I have tried this and it works, but the realities of roads means it is probably wiser to keep at least one hand on the bars for minor adjustments.
Absolutely. Once flicked into the turn, the machine is stable, and doesn't need or want you messing with it.. EXCEPT you are now on the side of the tire, and it is essentially smaller in diameter at the contact patch, so it needs to be rotating faster. Adding throttle all the way through the turn stabilizes the bike and makes for faster exit speeds..
The action of moving my body, especially upper part, into the curve pushes my shoulder and arm on the bar, so I'm countersteering using my body. I just find it a more flowing method.
At this point, isn't this just semantics. At the end of the day, it's still the movement of THE BAR that accomplishes everything, no?
Yes Kev I wouldn't say its necessary semantics, by using my body I'm also slightly lowering the CG too and I find that this action allows me to initiate a smoother transition. But that's just what works for meHowever Yes absolutely it is the action of pushing the bar in the desired direction is what is causing the bike to turn
Yes pretty much so.....Riding at let's say 50 mph with hands off the bars and and steering with body English....You lean your body to the left and the bike drifts to the left...Have the bars moved to the right? Maybe no so with a very slight turn... I do this from time to time but never paid close attention to the bar position...
I don't understand the term full body English, but my impression is when just leaning the bike, it will initiate a wide turn or general drift in that direction. Of course that could also be another input, I'm unaware of too, I never gave it that much thought.
Did you watch the video of the no BS bike.I believe it clearly demonstrates that you can't really initiate a turn (for all practical purposes) with JUST a lean.That's all I'm saying.You need an input at the steering head because of the extent of the forces involved in a motorcycle.Bicycle is a different matter, because you and your weight far outweigh the forces involved (the mass of the bike and generally any speed/momentum/centripetal force)... of course, even then I'm not sure, it's been too many years since I rode a bicycle without hands as a kid, maybe my leaning turned the steering head even then.
Bicycle is a different matter, because you and your weight far outweigh the forces involved (the mass of the bike and generally any speed/momentum/centripetal force)... of course, even then I'm not sure, it's been too many years since I rode a bicycle without hands as a kid, maybe my leaning turned the steering head even then.
Chuck, do you think that the small, if any, change in diameter is significant? I can't say I've ever noticed it. Of course, if you are doing something other than just cruising along then having a bit of power on in a curve is a good thing anyway.
You don`t notice anything because the statement is not true.
With his helmet cam running, he recorded the results. Countersteering starting the turns, then, and hard to tell, but looks like turning into the turn to maintain at slow 30 MPH speed turns, neutral to more very slight countersteering to maintain higher speed 60 MPH sweepers. Body steering, no doubt about it when he leaned hard with hands off the bars at 60 MPH, as the bike SLIGHTLY fell over into the turn the bars turned away from the direction of the lean, which means he initiated a countersteering turn with his body weight shift.
Countersteering starting the turns
And what makes you say that? When you are on the side of the tire, the effective diameter is smaller.