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Remember the guy who was GIVING away a crashed Stelvio a couple of years ago and one bloke actually wondered about the fuel cost to go and pick it up...!Would be a handy little piece of kit to have now wouldn't it ?
Nobody really needs to discuss it to understand it, it’s obvious.
I won't be able to pick the bike up until the end of the month. The advisor that I spoke with said that the cam chain tensioner was shot, as well as the pistons, valves and cylinders.
Mechanicals aside, people understand that newer bikes have many items which slowly degrade over the life of the bike, and will never be economic to fix: bodywork tabs and fittings, instrumentation and displays, anything plastic exposed to UV etc. BMWs are the same - old ones are rebuilt, new ones are disposable. Nobody really needs to discuss it to understand it, it’s obvious.
It really comes down to how well you like the bike. Yes you can buy a used bike and have one for parts, but you may get one that needs other work down the road. I have tended to believe its cheaper to fix 'em if you plan on keeping them long term than jumping from vehicle to vehicle. Depreciation has already taken a large chunk out of the bike, and once fixed you should have engine worry free for many many miles, vs used which is an unknown.
No it's not. It's crap.I can tell you that my ten year old Griso looks a damn sight better at its age than my SP1000 did. The only bit that wore out 'Prematurely' on the G was the tappets. Everything else, including all those bits you reckon are so damage prone and/or unreliable are doing just dandy thank you. Pete
I plan on finding a used motor at this point and swapping it out. There's a 2012 on Ebay for $2,600.00. I would prefer a 2013 or newer to avoid the flat tappett issues. I don't have to be in a hurry and I would guess between Griso's, Norge's and Stelvio's there will be something that comes up in a newerish model.
Right, first thing is to find where the dirt is getting in and ensuring it can't happen again. Then move on to effecting the repair.Now the fact it's pushing nothing on the left hand side is very odd and 220 on the right is too high. The fact it's pushing 220 makes me think the cam timing is out on that cylinder, (Go one tooth off one way and cylinder fill is bonkers at cranking speed but it won't bend a valve.) have the valves on the side with no compression been checked? I'm wondering if this is another case of the flinger plate not being installed properly and the timing moving. Are there any witness marks on the top of the piston on the side that isn't pumping?With a dusted motor you wouldn't expect nothing on one cylinder. Lower, maybe a lot lower, than they 'Good' side but not nothing. You implied that the dead side stopped instantly? It didn't start to miss and hunt or anything? Just stopped instantly? If so, while dust is undoubtably getting in I'm beginning to think that that diagnosis alone as the cause of failure is probably incorrect.If the heads are off grab them and hold them with first the inlet and then the exhaust port uppermost and pour some petrol into the port. If it gushes straight out of the valves then the timing has slipped and it's biffed a valve.This is going to be a process of elimination now the heads are off. Methinks if you're lucky you may just get away with rings and valves, (And correct assembly!). You don't have to drop the motor to get the barrels off but you do need to remove the studs, they are glued in good so you need a really good stud extractor to get them out. We have a savage one made by the SnapOn subsidiary Blues Point. It and a long breaker bar made short work of the studs on the one I had recently that dropped its timing and bust a valve.Pete