There's no one right way, reading through your procedure it should work.
For a high mileage bike I like to use both idle screws otherwise you may find the idle is not consistent, the idle stops are a fixed point.
I like to back off the idle stops using a slip of paper between the screw and the stop as a feeler gauge, set the screw to just grip the paper
The 150 mV with butterfly fully closed is correct but don't get hung up on the 500/520, that's just a starting point to give you something like the right idling position, better to just set the idle speed IMHO ignoring the mV reading.
You can ignore that step and just use the fast idle lever to get it idling then screw both idle stops in the same number of flats until its idling nicely.
I think most owners start with the air bleeds partially open e.g. 1 turn each.
Just read through a few different procedures and adapt one you like.
As for the TPS, if you have the large P8 ECU you can take the cover off the connector and make a permanent connection to pin 17 (that's what it shows on the attached document)http://www.dpguzzi.com/efiman.pdf
This document is worth printing out for your EV
If its a 15M ECU there's some confusion some drawings show pin 1 others show pin 11, stick a sewing pin through the wire to make contact and the right one will scan from 150 mv to ~4-1/2 Volts as you open the throttle then you can bare a little insulation and solder a tap into it.
If you attach a wire and end it with a blue butt splice it makes a handy socket for your multimeter probe the negative lead can just go to battery negative or chassis.