Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Muzz on March 21, 2019, 06:00:37 PM
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Any ideas on why?
Breva 750, battery on the way out (about 8-9 years old), but still starts.
I use it to keep on top of the range left; set it to zero when the light comes on and have a good idea then on how far I can get. Annoying when I start and the counter is at zero.
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Can't find anything on it - the official Guzzi solution for anything that doesn't work in the "dashboard" is to replace the dashboard. Not satisfactory, or cheap.
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Water in the reset switch perhaps.
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2004_750_Breva.gif
I presume it has a pushbutton, not that I can see one.
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Water in the reset switch perhaps.
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2004_750_Breva.gif
I presume it has a pushbutton, not that I can see one.
Yes, it has a pushbutton Roy. Scrolls through odo, trip, temperture and clock. All work ok. Trip logs the mileage just fine; seems to reset when I stop the bike, and then on restart it goes through to zero.
Bike is stored under cover in the garage and as we haven't had any rain for months it has not been out in it and gotten things wet. Bike just gets a wipe around the electronics and cables, only the motor/gearbox/diff get washed.
Bike itself is running great.
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I really don't know what it might be but don't you think it reasonable to think something is simulating a button push?
Often a computer input sits at +5 or +12 and it's triggered by grounding out, something like corrosion in a connector might do that.
See if you can measure the input, something other than normal might indicate tracking.
Or perhaps the power disappearing.
The Dash (43) has two permanent feeds pin 27 & 29 that should stay On - is it possible it is getting interrupted while the bike is switched Off that might look like a zero as well.
I can't identify which is the reset button, I think it might be miss-labeled, the bottom row of (33) and the separate button (34) look like in series I don't think that's right.
Do you do anything different than intended to the bike between ridings?
As you can tell I really don't have any idea, don't tell anybody.
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Considering you stated the age of the battery, is it possible the battery is marginal and when it starts power is robbed to the degree that the dash is in effect, experiencing a brown out?
I would consider getting the battery load tested at the very least, or simply replace the battery.
Just a thought...
John Henry
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I always start with checking all grounds. Twice!
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I'm experiencing the same thing, although it is intermittent. I will scroll to the trip meter on occasion between fill ups and it will usually have mileage registered. When I go to gas up and reset it, over half the time it is at zero! I'm not sure that I am not holding the button down too long on occasion and resetting it. An irritant for sure, but I don't have an answer. The rest of the dash is functioning as it should.
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Considering you stated the age of the battery, is it possible the battery is marginal and when it starts power is robbed to the degree that the dash is in effect, experiencing a brown out?
John Henry
That is what I was wondering . The battery is coming up 9 years old. Just trying to nurse it through to the winter layoff.
Edit: Roy, looked at the wiring diagram last night. With a couple of months until the winter layoff, a new battery to go in when it goes back on the road and with plenty on my plate I think I will postpone the dive into Pandora's Box. :grin: I have checked the two major earths when the gearbox went in a month back. Overall, it is the same as Dharma Bum, everything else is fine.
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Considering you stated the age of the battery, is it possible the battery is marginal and when it starts power is robbed to the degree that the dash is in effect, experiencing a brown out?
I would consider getting the battery load tested at the very least, or simply replace the battery.
Just a thought...
John Henry
John Henry has a good point, the power dip might be too much for it.
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John Henry has a good point, the power dip might be too much for it.
Have had the battery on the trickle charger. Checked trip and it has held. I think Zoom Zoom may be right. Am trying to hold off on the new one until after the winter layoff. I don't usually use the trickle charger, preferring to us a 3 amp smart charger every three weeks. I think overall that is actually better for the battery. The baby B's do have a high parasitic drain for some reason, which is the reason for the regular charging.
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Parasitic drains - my V7 C doesn't seem to have one (started 2nd stab after being left for 7 months while O/S once - SSB Powersports Lithium), although the 1TB Special does. What's on? Should only be the clock I should think, but the drain is too much for just that alone. The V7C has the same clock.
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Just had a quick search in my log - noted that at one time a battery wouldn't hold the charge - charged it up off the bike to 13.0, down to 12.7 after a few mins & to 10.7 after 24 hours. Got a new battery.
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Just had a quick search in my log - noted that at one time a battery wouldn't hold the charge - charged it up off the bike to 13.0, down to 12.7 after a few mins & to 10.7 after 24 hours. Got a new battery.
Even when the batteries have been new they would drop over about a month to the stage it would not start Mal. Always had that drain. Others, including my mate who has an '06 Breva has found the same. I did warn him at the time and he has found that it is true. :sad:
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Back to the original problem, I usully keep my Breva on a tender, but it has been unplugged for 10 days or so. I have a battery monitor on it ( one of those lights that flashes green, yellow, or red depending on voltage.) Today it wasn't flashing at all, probably because I left the phone charger plugged in. I turned the switch on and toggled to the trip meter and it was still registering mileage. Just another data point for wiser minds than me.
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I vote marginal battery.
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Even when the batteries have been new they would drop over about a month to the stage it would not start Mal. Always had that drain. Others, including my mate who has an '06 Breva has found the same. I did warn him at the time and he has found that it is true. :sad:
I believe you have a Voltage regulator that is always on, it doesn't draw much current but enough to draw down over a month or so.
Believe me you don't want the other kind like they used to have on VIIs.
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I believe you have a Voltage regulator that is always on, it doesn't draw much current but enough to draw down over a month or so.
Believe me you don't want the other kind like they used to have on VIIs.
Thanks for that info Roy. I always blamed the clock. Remembering to throw a charger on every three weeks is no biggie.
The one on the V7ll, that was the overcharging one wasn't it?
edit: the times I have checked the regulator on mine the voltages have been exactly where they should be.
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Update: The battery was needing more charging time to keep the starter motor ticking over, so I bit the bullet and put another battery in. Called "Supercharge" :rolleyes:, but has a one year warranty. The Repco Katana brand was going to be $139, this was $70. Nothing on the box saying where it was made so probably Chinese.
The main thing is that the trip meter does not reset itself when I crank the bike over, so the problem was evidently the voltage drop to the dash. All good.
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Well solved.
Now if someone can tell me how to reset the odometer to zero in some 5,000km, I'll be very happy (that's if it stops at 199,999 as rumoured).
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Well solved.
Now if someone can tell me how to reset the odometer to zero in some 5,000km, I'll be very happy (that's if it stops at 199,999 as rumoured).
Is that on the smallblock Mal?
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You can measure the parasitic current, the problem is when you connect your milliammeter in series you are likely to blow the fuse with the inrush current then it will be zero mA for sure.
Of course if you turn on even the smallest load it will again be too much for the meter fuse.
Try a small 12V lamp in series, you can sort of judge how much current is passing by the brightness in that then carefully short the lamp out with the meter. Another trick we used in Instrumentation was put a forward biased diode in series, this creates 0.6 Volts drop but the circuit is established. Then you put the milliammeter across the diode the current changes direction and goes through the meter as the forward bias drops to < 0.6.
A 1K resistor is handy to check your meter before and afterwards, with the resistor in series with the meter you should get 12 - 14 milliamps depending on battery Voltage.
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Is that on the smallblock Mal?
Yes Muzz, the V7 Classic.
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Mal, that's some mileage you have knocked up! :thumb:
Roy, thanks for the info but probably won't bother; I know the drain is there so act accordingly.
Before i swapped the battery I charged the old one up and put the voltmeter on it; bike cranked over but voltage dropped to 6 volts at the battery and trip meter reset. All good with the new one.