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General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: delrod on April 09, 2019, 07:10:13 PM
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2008 norge 31000 miles, Have only had a couple real short runs. Have to wait for the legals and and the tax man. Just a couple of thoughts getting a little bit of crackle on the throttle roll-off not quite a backfire. Is this the Mistral can or just a feature? 6k feels good but that's also where the red light starts flashing. Should the shift indicator be bumped up a little? I am anxious to get it out for a real couple hundred miles ride. Any thoughts from the collective wisdom. And no I don't havepics It's the fast silver color
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Where are you?
I just bought a 2007 Norge...same color....fly and drive in two weeks :)
Cheers and congrats
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SE Kansas had to haul this one home. Just couldn't get timing to make the ride
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Yes, up the gear change indicator to something reasonable like 7,500.
Has it got two keys? Do you know the user code?
It will pop and fart on the over-run with any more 'Open' pipe. Easily fixed with a decent map but give it a proper tune up and it will probably get better.
Pete
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Hey buddy! Congratulations!! Are you gonna bring it to Cedar Vale or Council Grove?? get with beetle and get a map for your setup....he got rid of all my popping on overrun and settled the low-speed lurches right down...post some pics of your new ride!!
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Pete, yes two keys and user code . Thanks
Chris, don't know if I can make any of those long trips,do you know of anything close to me? As far as pics I only have two flash bulbs left for my Kodak saving them for something special
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I could swing up to do a check ride with you...maybe Pittsburg to Noel, MO + Roaring River and back??
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(https://i.ibb.co/B32QK1x/Screenshot-from-2019-04-09-20-34-21.png) (https://ibb.co/B32QK1x)
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Chris I'm trying to make a ride work this weekend I'll keep you posted.
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Hey buddy! Congratulations!! Are you gonna bring it to Cedar Vale or Council Grove?? get with beetle and get a map for your setup....he got rid of all my popping on overrun and settled the low-speed lurches right down...post some pics of your new ride!!
Congrats on the new bike.
Yeah. Chris' bike had a little off-throttle rumble when I tested it. It ran good though- I didn't detect lurches. I assume it's a little lean from the factory. I thought it sounded pretty throaty actually.
You know it goes well beyond 6k. Don't all 1100s run to 8k? (about 1k after running out of power)
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Seems like most Norges have a bit of popping on decel...Beetle's map definitely helps that.
The Norge is a 1200 John...smooth as silk too, almost as smooth as the Scura in a differently smooth way!
:)
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I guarantee it will eat the miles..change all fluids, check tire pressures, maybe a new air filter, plugs, set valves 'n' go!!
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I guarantee it will eat the miles..change all fluids, check tire pressures, maybe a new air filter, plugs, set valves 'n' go!!
Time to do the swingarm bearings and shock linkage greasing before you do miles.
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Got a couple hundred miles in yesterday. More thoughts and questions. Stelvio handguards are buzzy at low RPM 2-3000, any reason I should not have a firm rear brake pedal? does abs have any effect on that? Fuel economy ran in the high 30s Still feels good to be cruising above 5g is the 1200 ok with that? My 03 hydro always seemed like I was pushing it there.
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Not much need to be below 3K most of the time. 5k plus RPM, no problem. Brake pedal should be quite firm, at last toward the bottom of it's travel.
GliderJohn
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Re the rear brake pedal.
Go for a 10 minute ride and try not to touch the rear brake, jump off and feel the disc.
It should be cold or near so. This is to ascertain if the rear brake is dragging due to the slide pins being dry.
Whip the rear calliper off and apply a small amount of grease to them under the rubber boots.
Naturally it would be prudent to replace the fluid and bleed them front and rear, I do mine every 20,000 k.
Do the startus mod.
Beetle map.
TB balance.
Air filter check or renew.
User code 28315 (for dashboard access)
Valve clearances .006” and .004”
Use Valpolini rocker gaskets and you can re use them.
Check brake pads.
When winter sets in, you may opt to look at the fuel filter and have a metal one.
All good fun and enjoy your ride. I get out on mine a little bit and since the Beetle, Roper treatment, it’s been fabulous.
Swing arm bearings and linkages check (as mentioned)
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Is the gearshift light an indicator or a limiter ?
(I actually have never known)
I have seen 200 on the speedo and did not hit the limiter.
That would have been 7,400 rpm
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Got a couple hundred miles in yesterday. More thoughts and questions. Stelvio handguards are buzzy at low RPM 2-3000, any reason I should not have a firm rear brake pedal? does abs have any effect on that? Fuel economy ran in the high 30s Still feels good to be cruising above 5g is the 1200 ok with that? My 03 hydro always seemed like I was pushing it there.
If you leave your Norge unridden for a week or more, the rear pedal will go down. They all do that, and there is not, AFAIK, any fix other than to bleed the rear brake if you let her set. Good motivation to ride every day or so.
I've tried the Stelvio hand guards and they didn't work well for me - but I do have Heli-Bars on mine, too.
The Norge likes to run between 4500 and 5500. Of course 5500 in 6th is well above the speed limit in most states. I normally cruise on the freeway at about 5000.
Also, you will find that filling the crankcase to the top marker on the dipstick will result in oil being blown out and making a mess on your floor. Find our where the "proper" full line is on yours and just accept it. Again, they all do that, and they are all a bit different, but I've never seen one that liked the oil level at the "Full" line on the dipstick.
Enjoy, they are wonderful bikes.
jdg
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I have found that hanging a weight from the rear brake pedal overnight will help bleed it and firm it up again.
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Congrats on getting a Norge, Doug. Can't wait to go on a road trip (Springfield Mile) with you riding it!
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I have found that hanging a weight from the rear brake pedal overnight will help bleed it and firm it up again.
???
Mine has never done that..
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In October 2019 I bought a 2007 Norge with 38,000 miles. Now has 45,000. It's a great bike but i had to spend some $$$ catching up on POs deferred maintenance.
You mentioned backfiring on yours. Mine was doing that big time. Dealer found the Y-pipe to be cracked in several places. That let in outside air which messed with the O2 sensor which in turn was telling the ECU that the engine was running lean. A good used Y-Pipe from eBay resolved the issue.
I have gathered info on this subject, fuel map sources, and more into this link (which I update often):
https://www.dansher.com/bikepix/Guzzi/Norge1200/Norge_2007_fyi.txt (https://www.dansher.com/bikepix/Guzzi/Norge1200/Norge_2007_fyi.txt)
'Geezer
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I have found that hanging a weight from the rear brake pedal overnight will help bleed it and firm it up again.
This.
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This.
Yuck...!
If it hadn’t come from you Chuck, I’d say BS.
Instead I’ll just say it sounds like BS.
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Not BS, my 2008 Norge displays the spongy pedal syndrome at times, you can bleed the rear brake all you want and it never really is perfect. Hang a weight off of the pedal overnight always cures this malady. DonG
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Same as using a bungee cord to hold the front brake lever in to compress the fluid to help dislodge and work out the air bubbles. Old known trick.
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DANG! I just spent all night in the garage with my foot on the brake :sad: It was a loooonnnng night!
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Ok then..
For now.
Can someone tell me please, if you have depressed the lever (rear) or pulled in the handle (front) and covered the port to the reservoir in a serviceable system.
Where do the air bubbles go to ?
A previous post said that it conveniently “helped to work out the air bubbles...”
Again, where to ?
Remember, these offending “air bubbles” are on the pressure side of the communication port, not the ambient side. If you can pressurise a system and work out a way to get the air out without losing fluid..?
I’m keen to sit down and listen..
You can TELL me a hundred times, but can you EXPLAIN it ?
Yes, pressurising the system will compress the air, but will releasing the lever pressure, not just allow the bubbles to expand back to ambient pressure ?
I’m happy to read a hundred half baked un related analogies on the topic and all the testimony in the world about how a bloke’s brother in law’s sister’s husband used to do it and he “reckons it works”, but is there some Physics..?
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Not BS, my 2008 Norge displays the spongy pedal syndrome at times, you can bleed the rear brake all you want and it never really is perfect. Hang a weight off of the pedal overnight always cures this malady. DonG
Are you describing a “spongy pedal” or a pedal that has “increased travel” to the point of pad contact.
I find it vaguely acceptable to suggest that “hanging a weight” off the pedal will (maybe) give you a reduced travel because you have compressed the pads against the disc and it’s akin to pumping the brake to get a full pedal.
But.
If anyone suggests that this practice will remove air from the system..?
I’m afraid we’re in for a long night.
Quoting the word of established luminaries will buy some time, but I’ll be needing to hear where the air can escape to, without the fluid ducking through the same aperture... :popcorn:
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It's an osmosydic event. Happens all the time in nature. It's also why some persons smell so bad.
I've tried it, ending w/no luck, butt. The MC was lower than the caliper. Air being lighter than the fluid and under pressure wouldn't it have a tendency to rise? - collect at the MC? Release pressure at the MC and ??? Of course we're speaking of possibly microscopic bubbles. R3~
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Osmosis as I (think) I understand it, is the process by which a substance can pass through a membrane by chemical process or due to the relative sizes of the molecules..
Anyway.
Whether the fluid is under hydraulic pressure or ambient, the air has less density so will migrate upwards if unimpeded.
Good so far..!
But.
Remember we have the pedal depressed or lever pulled in, the communication port is “incommunicado” if you will, so the air will come into contact with a little thing called the master cylinder piston, which by all accounts can hold back fluid @ hydraulic pressures. So just to drag things back kicking and screaming to the point in question..
How in God’s green Earth is the air going to get past that piston ?
Not as long as your arse is pointing downward, unless you develop some anomaly in the system (leak), then you can pump ‘till your arse turns to parsley and you’ll not succeed.
So again, when using the “hang an anvil on the pedal” technique.
Please guys.
WHERE. DOES. THE. AIR. ESCAPE. TO..?
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Here is a point by point theory for ya... worth what ya paid.
- Air gets in system and the bubbles lodge in nooks and crannies of the calipers and hose fittings.
- Under compression when piston squeezes it, air bubbles collapse to a smaller size, allowing them to dislodge and migrate through the oil upwards toward the master cylinder. Thick oil causes this to take a while hence leaving under pressure overnight.
- When the piston is released, porting in the master cylinder allows the air bubbles to move on up into the reservoir air space.
- Next time the lever is pulled it is firm because the air has bled out.
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I don't understand color tv but I watch a lot of it. I will try it and see if any results are achieved. Does the molecular structure of the weight matter and if so why?
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Here is a point by point theory for ya... worth what ya paid.
- Air gets in system and the bubbles lodge in nooks and crannies of the calipers and hose fittings.
- Under compression when piston squeezes it, air bubbles collapse to a smaller size, allowing them to dislodge and migrate through the oil upwards toward the master cylinder. Thick oil causes this to take a while hence leaving under pressure overnight.
- When the piston is released, porting in the master cylinder allows the air bubbles to move on up into the reservoir air space.
- Next time the lever is pulled it is firm because the air has bled out.
Worth a thought Darren.
But jeez, that’s a long bow you’re drawing..
I can’t prove you wrong though.
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I don't understand color tv but I watch a lot of it. I will try it and see if any results are achieved. Does the molecular structure of the weight matter and if so why?
Can we have that again mate..?
The “molecular structure of the weight..?”
The water is getting muddy.
A better place for Muddy Waters is a blues club.