Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: kballowe on April 26, 2019, 07:35:07 PM
-
1st fluid change on the V9 Roamer.
Has anyone managed to drain the transmission without removing the crossover pipe ?
???
-
Measure the distance then look in manual how long the drain pug is.
-
Measure the distance then look in manual how long the drain pug is.
The crossover interferes with getting a socket on the transmission drain plug and I don't have a wrench to fit (yet). 24mm, I think.
An adjustable wrench doesn't fit in there, either. Too long. Too thick.
:grin: :grin: :grin:
The shop manual shows a very nice, clear picture of the drain plug, but the exhaust is missing in the picture. It goes on to say to remove the drain plug and to drain thoroughly (several minutes).
On a positive note, the manual specs two liters for an crankcase oil change w/filter and two liters is exactly what came out (and went back in).
-
You might be able to use a ratcheting box wrench.
-
It's a different animal, but the V7C originally had the same problem - the colostomy bag of a crossover was immediately behind the gearbox drain plug (17mm). You could get to it with a ring spanner or an open ender, but it was awkward, burns from hot headers were not uncommon, & the draining oil covered to colostomy bag. Agostini & others came to the rescue with a section of straight stainless - easier to clean the oil off, and much better access to the plug - probably not enough room for a socket with a half inch drive, but I'm now used to using ring scanners for the oil change.
-
I removed the right muffler and the clamp on the crossover pipe and then loosened the head pipe at the jug.
With a bit of coaxing, the crossover separated and the head pipe assembly swung down enough to get a 24mm socket onto the drain plug.
.
.
.
Here's a pic from the right side. with the muffler removed.
.
.
.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/33840442388_67c9aa6b49_b.jpg)
.
.
.
The drain plug is a thin cast aluminum "cap" with an o-ring. It looks pretty much like the drain plug on Honda/Yamaha/etc shaft drive pumpkins. So, not much torque on this particular plug. I think that a little stamped flat wrench might fit in there. The the plug is not very long. If you could loosen it, then it would come right out. You might need nimble fingers to get it back in there, though.
-
Changed mine last Fall. I only had to Remove the right 'Slip on" pipe and was able to get an open end wrench on and loosen the drain plug. The little bit that dripped on the crossover was wiped clean with a rag.
-
On the Breva the crossover pipes are not in the centre. I was able to rotate the crossover enough so the sensor still didn't hit the frame but I was able to secrete an open end spanner in there and undo it.
Don't know if the V9 is the same or not.
-
Thanks for the photo. It looks even more impossible & inconvenient than what we small blockers usually have to contend with. Serious burn encouraging when oil is supposed to hot when removed. Good luck.
-
Meh.
So, minor inconvenience.
Not like changing an air filter on a Honda Gold wing, now is it ?
:sad:
.
.
.
.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/32778741927_9da4ede19b_b.jpg)
-
Sorry not to have read this thread in time to be of any help, but I have found a metric service wrench kit from HF to be almost ideal in this kind of situation. You can hit the handles with a hammer or extend them with a tube. One would easily remove your drain plug above the crossover, I expect.
(https://shop.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_13836.jpg)
https://www.harborfreight.com/15-piece-metric-service-wrench-set-93668.html#tt-reviews (https://www.harborfreight.com/15-piece-metric-service-wrench-set-93668.html#tt-reviews)
The ones I got were not polished, like these appear to be, but are otherwise similar. This set has: 20mm, 21mm, 22mm, 23mm, 24mm, 26mm, 27mm, 28mm, 29mm, 30mm, 32mm, 33mm, 34mm, 35mm and 36mm. I think mine has a continuous series without gaps at 25 and 31, but I'm not sure. Today's 20% off coupon on any single item makes them more affordable.
May be worth considering for next time, or for anyone who doesn't want to be removing the crossover. I find I use mine pretty frequently.
Moto
-
You could use the opportunity to pull the exhaust and antisneeze all the joints. Then reinstall so that it's not in a bind that will cause a crack later on.
-
Same on my V7 III, I use a 24mm ratcheting box wrench, from the right side. Just enough room to drop the plug and filter and reinstall, without moving exhaust bits.
-
You could use the opportunity to pull the exhaust and antisneeze all the joints. Then reinstall so that it's not in a bind that will cause a crack later on.
That exhaust came apart TOO easy. I spend another hour on the bike it - going over the nuts n bolts, shining a flashlight here and there.
And yes, put it all back together just as gentle as possible.
Isn't it amazing how much anti-seize ya think ya need...... and ten years later - ya still got most of it left . :grin: :grin: :grin:
-
Isn't it amazing how much anti-seize ya think ya need...... and ten years later - ya still got most of it left . :grin: :grin: :grin:
I actually used a can up last year. maybe that's a sign of something...
-
That exhaust came apart TOO easy. I spend another hour on the bike it - going over the nuts n bolts, shining a flashlight here and there.
When I first took the Mikalor clamps apart I found the Luigi had not used ANY antiseize on the full stainless clamps.. Cosequently, the threads had galled up beforeb they were fully tight. I replaced them with the model that uses the stainless band but with normal HT steel bolt and nut with antiseize. No problems since.
Looking at your photo again I realized that I had disengaged the brain. :embarrassed: The smalblock had the drain on the vertical plane, your V9 has it on the horizontal. That is a proverbial pain in the neck.
-
I actually used a can up last year. maybe that's a sign of something...
Lose any parts? :grin:
Kballowe...I use a different version of this. https://www.harborfreight.com/oil-suction-gun-95468.html
-
Lose any parts? :grin:
Kballowe...I use a different version of this. https://www.harborfreight.com/oil-suction-gun-95468.html
Well, that, umm, sucks !
:grin: :grin: :grin:
:thumb:
-
It's a different animal, but the V7C originally had the same problem - the colostomy bag of a crossover was immediately behind the gearbox drain plug (17mm). You could get to it with a ring spanner or an open ender, but it was awkward, burns from hot headers were not uncommon, & the draining oil covered to colostomy bag. Agostini & others came to the rescue with a section of straight stainless - easier to clean the oil off, and much better access to the plug - probably not enough room for a socket with a half inch drive, but I'm now used to using ring scanners for the oil change.
Reviving an old thread here just to follow up on the quote above from Malik. I have a 2012 V7C and the "colostomy bag" is in the way as Malik describes. But, I used an open end wrench/spanner and got the rear drain plug loose without drama. HOWEVER, I can't back the plug out enough to get it out-- it hits the colostomy bag before its far enough out to remove. WTF? Is the solution to start dismantling the bag mount?
Thanks from a rookie attempting first oil change...
-
Chenneling Gilda Radner: "Never mind..." After looking again in the manual and seeing nothing about the colostomy bag, I just decided to try prying it back a bit and, sure enough, got enough clearance to get the rear drain plug all the way out. On to te next adventure!
-
On a similar note, it looks necessary to pull at least one of the cans to remove the rear wheel, right?
-
Chad, I do both muffs and swing the LH shock up out of way.
-
Thanks Steve.