Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Gusable on May 11, 2019, 06:21:28 PM
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35,000 miles and the rear tire needs a change. I’m about to pull the wheel and I’m wondering should I pull the chunk and moly the splines? Bike has a good maintenance history ( I’m sure they’ve been lubed before). What’s the procedure? Torque axle first then the 4 acorn nuts last? Am I gonna lose fluid when I pull the box?
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There are 2 orings that I change each time. Yes, axle then 4 studs.
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I wouldn't torque the axle. Just bring it up finger tight or a touch more. Then the 4 acorn nuts. Then secure the axle.
Is this a 98EV??? If so, removing the wheel will likely be easier if you undo the brake anchor pin out of the left side of the swingarm. Be SURE to use blue LocTite when you put that pin back in after assembly.
While the drive splines have been lubed, how about the cush drive within the wheel hub? Giant circlip ring. Hub and o-rings could use some grease. Some people bore holes in the rubber wedges to soften them a bit. I like to lubricate the outer surface of the cush plate where is rides on the split ring and likewise the contact surface of the split ring. A bit tricky to get it all back in.
Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA
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Thank you fellas. Hummm circlip? O rings? I’ll look at the parts diagram. Until I’m in there I’m not really versed in the parts arraignment. You lube all the rubber bits in the Cush?
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I understand it now. Thx for the help
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Another question.. I’m wanting to lift the rear of the bike ( on my motorcycle lift) where’s a good lifting point? I’m think block of wood across the centerstand pivot point? Can the centerstand be retracted and get the wheel out?
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A block of 2 x 6 under the sump will lift it. Sturdy sump.
I have a full lift table but usually there is something on it and I seldom use it for an EV rear tire.
You will need a ratchet cargo strap or a piece of rope.
You will need four pieces of 2 X 4 about a foot long.
This can be done alone, but it takes some practice and bravery so good to have someone standing by to help the first time.
1- Put the bike on the centerstand and tie or strap tightly from the stand to the rim of the front wheel. Just a safety to keep the stand from folding.
2- Tip the bike to the RIGHT side almost to the point of falling and slide one piece of wood under the LEFT foot of the centerstand.
3- Push the bike back up vertical and put another piece of wood under the RIGHT foot of the centerstnd.
4- Repeat #2 and #3. Good to go.
5- deflate the tire for easier wheel removal and installation.
6- Undo the brake anchor pin from the left side of the swingarm.
7- Reverse everything. Use blue LocTite on the brake anchor pin. Inflate the tire. Grease film the axle surface.
You have to start by tilting to the right. Tilting to the left will interfere and foul with the angular centerstand deployment arm.
Do you have Hepco-Becker or Givi luggage? The HB frames may still interfere with wheel removal. The Givi will not.
Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA
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No luggage racks right now. I’ll have those in couple weeks. I’m on a harbor freight motorcycle lift. It has the removable rear tire plate. So I’m thinking strap down the front of the bike... scissor lift the middle or rear of bike and take that rear lift plate off...
(https://i.ibb.co/ftY5zzm/F1-F7-C9-FB-848-D-49-C4-ACCA-E4034-D6-A5-C55.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ftY5zzm)
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Just put on center stand as close to the rear of the lift as possible. Otherwise it won't clear.
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Got it apart. Shaft was not stuck to bevel box. Normal? Check out pics..
(https://i.ibb.co/GHPDM3n/1-B1-B98-BF-A751-4-DE3-886-A-94-FBC4-AD8115.jpg) (https://ibb.co/GHPDM3n)
(https://i.ibb.co/9pwVHnp/722-FE992-FEFD-4701-A20-D-1-DA43-A332-BE8.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9pwVHnp)
(https://i.ibb.co/85qWJDv/B8553-EF4-BA9-C-4-FE0-B4-A5-3-E8-B16645-A08.jpg) (https://ibb.co/85qWJDv)
(https://i.ibb.co/rQVZbQp/58-FB8560-D991-4949-85-A7-BADF6-E6-C3-A9-E.jpg) (https://ibb.co/rQVZbQp)
(https://i.ibb.co/Cv0Rc9W/02228418-3-CA2-4-E72-9775-E44891-FE1638.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Cv0Rc9W)
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Splines
(https://i.ibb.co/HGKX7xy/D77506-DE-9832-426-C-80-FA-A002-C421-A97-A.jpg) (https://ibb.co/HGKX7xy)
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No luggage racks right now. I’ll have those in couple weeks.
Those splines look very nice. You have a long way to go with this machine.
I'm not familiar with those bolts holding the chrome trim just below the rear seat. Soft bags maybe?
What kind of luggage racks are you getting? Givi or Hepco/Becker or something else. If one of the first two, they mount into threaded lugs vertically up under the seat frame rails behind that chrome cover. Guzzi used threaded bushings and welded them into the frame. Left all kinds of nasty slag inside the threads. If you just try to install bolts you are likely to bind and strip threads. Make sure to run a tap into those mounting holes before you install any permanent accessories. 8 X 1.25 if I recall correctly.
Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA
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Cush looks good.
(https://i.ibb.co/71fSd4z/E7290980-5536-4-B59-9801-4-C350923410-D.jpg) (https://ibb.co/71fSd4z)
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Thank you Patrick I did not know that. they are hepco and Becker factory brackets I don’t have the cases yet that’s for a later day but I will run a tap through those thank you and it looks like I need to drill holes in the rubber bits! I was excited to get my bike back and now that I know it’s got nice drive train I’m very excited!!!!
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Hard to drill rubber. It drastically shreds and tears instead of cutting. Better to make a hole boring tool. Just a piece of thin wall pipe with a sharp/beveled edge. Hand drill or drill press. Have to remove the bit every time to punch out the rubber core that you have extracted from the Guzzi wedge. A true hollow punch boring tool would look like this, but you can substitute with pipe and time:
https://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece-hollow-punch-set-3838.html?cid=paid_google|*PLA+-+All+Products+-+Lower+Sales+Items|New+Products+-+%281%29+Price+%3C%2410|3838&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&mkwid=s84CmykQk|pcrid|318476002950|pkw||pmt||pdv|c|slid||product|3838|&pgrid=63088204786&ptaid=pla-295964137842&pcid=1654049980&gclid=CjwKCAjwiN_mBRBBEiwA9N-e_rxQFm6ulUJGZ6WUz9HtmVy1fenNmOCaOzlNkoIsmaxHL07ijU-mEBoCEE0QAvD_BwE (https://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece-hollow-punch-set-3838.html?cid=paid_google|*PLA+-+All+Products+-+Lower+Sales+Items|New+Products+-+%281%29+Price+%3C%2410|3838&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&mkwid=s84CmykQk|pcrid|318476002950|pkw||pmt||pdv|c|slid||product|3838|&pgrid=63088204786&ptaid=pla-295964137842&pcid=1654049980&gclid=CjwKCAjwiN_mBRBBEiwA9N-e_rxQFm6ulUJGZ6WUz9HtmVy1fenNmOCaOzlNkoIsmaxHL07ijU-mEBoCEE0QAvD_BwE)
In rubber it is far superior to a drill. IIRC, you can do one 3/8 hole near the pointed tip of each wedge and then two 1/4 holes up at the top wide corners. I don't have a pic. There isn't a right way to do it.
Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA
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Gotcha! Thank you sir! ( my California connection.... wink wink)
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I drilled my rubber wedges using a crude jig and a drill press. Quick and easy.
(https://i.ibb.co/pnwbFfL/FECE3817-9387-4-AE7-9-ECB-B6428-F820302.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pnwbFfL)
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Good idea!
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Another option is to remove every other pair of rubber spacers in the drive. The drive will resemble a radiation sign. Think I first saw it mentioned in Guzziology. Also mentioned here: http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzitech.dk/pdf/cush-drive-maintenance.pdf
Did it years ago. Disclaimer that I'm a sedate rider.
Edit for bad description.
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You might also check the thickness of the rotor. I just checked mine, and it was below spec.
Rich A
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Will do!
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Another option is to remove every other rubber spacers in the drive.
Um, that would be every other PAIR. Removing every other wedge would induce a HUGE amount of slop and hammering into the system.
Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA
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Um, that would be every other PAIR. Removing every other wedge would induce a HUGE amount of slop and hammering into the system.
Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA
You're right sir. That is what I meant to say. Sad thing is it made sense to me at the time. :sad:
Post edited.
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I ended up doing two 10mm holes each. I used a cheap tire tread depth gauge as a punch. Worked great
(https://i.ibb.co/Tm7W9Rp/image.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Tm7W9Rp)
(https://i.ibb.co/hfXv5mQ/C8-A6953-C-78-BC-4-ABA-BF89-7-C06-D8908-EBA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hfXv5mQ)
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2 more questions before my first ride tomorrow
1. Axle nut torque 101-107ft lbs?
2. Prop valve to rear brakes— the spring broke. I replaced it with a hardware store spring
Is it’s normal position all the way up?
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2. Prop valve to rear brakes— the spring broke. I replaced it with a hardware store spring
Is it’s normal position all the way up?
No.
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I finally found a decent online service manual. I get it now. 67mm adjustment.
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I finally found a decent online service manual. I get it now. 67mm adjustment.
The 67mm assumes that you have the original length spring. If the spring is different, the 67mm no longer works.
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I know 67mm is for the factory spring which I’ll order tomorrow
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Ah, the proportioning valve spring. Regina's broke early within the 3 year warranty period. Guzzi refused the warranty saying that the breakage came from abusive riding style. WTF? So much bad blood over a $3 spring.
Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA
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I work for a very high-end car dealership and we give away all kinds of stuff just to make the customers happy