Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: drab on May 14, 2019, 07:23:57 PM
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Did my first service on a V7 iii today.
When I took the valve covers off there appeared to be a fair amount of what looked like white lithium grease under the cover. It coated some of the underside of the valve cover itself. And also some of was sitting on the top end of the rocker shaft thingies. Having never done valves on an engine before I didn't think anything of it. So did not take a picture or anything.
My dad, with years of BMW motorcycle experience said that sounded odd to him.
Is this normal? Do I need to take off the valve covers and take a picture so people can see what I am talking about?
Thanks in advance for helping a newbie.
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That sounds like the infamous "mayo" from the oil not getting up to temp.
I've had it on my CARC bikes when riding in the winter.
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Emulsified oil (short trips in cold weather, forming moisture that isn't evaporated) was my first thought too.
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That describes it.
I went and took a picture (sure like how easy it is to work on this.)
If that is what it is, is it a concern?
(https://i.ibb.co/YcGMTdB/mayo.jpg) (https://ibb.co/YcGMTdB)
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Yeah that's it.
The concern is you need to clean it all out and make sure you run the motor longer in cooler temps to keep it from forming again.
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Hey thanks.
I have owned it since Thursday. Sounds like the previous owner took short trips.
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It is a concern in that you are not letting the engine get up to a high enough temp to burn off the water that is created by combustion. The Guzzi engine is over cooled. That's an insurance policy for those hot summer days when you are caught in a traffic jam. On the other hand, on cooler days you really need to force the engine to get hot enough to boil off that moisture. The mayo won't grenade the engine but it certainly does not do it any favors either.
Peter Y.
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Don't be too hard on the OP he's only had the bike for a few days.
Glenn
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Just fire it up and ride it, ride it, ride it and ride it a little more.
Then change the oil if you think it needs it, but it probably just needs riding.
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Going on a 3 day motorcycle camping trip tomorrow. Will be sure to get a lot of riding in.
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And don't poofter about running at 3-4,000rpm. Wring the little buggers neck. Try riding in 4th at wider throttle openings if needed. It needs to get good and hot.
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In the 15 years I've owned my 2003 Stone, it always makes the "mayo" when I ride it and it's less then 60 degrees out. I could ride from Port Ludlow to Portland and the "mayo" will still form. none of my Airheads or Harleys ever did this. My Norge does not do it either. I clean the valve covers every 4-5 rides and the turd still runs.
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Not sure about the V7 Engines, but the 1200 8V is badly over-cooled.
If you fit an Oil Temp Gauge (and you really should do on an Oil/Air-Cooled Engine), you'd most likely find the Oil Temps don't get anywhere near what they should.
My Stelvio would struggle to get the Oil above around 75-80°C on cooler days (below around 12°C), even less if it was raining too.
Makes no difference how far you ride either, it'll reach it's 'normal' operating temperature for the conditions in around 15-20 mins, then pretty-much stay there no matter how many miles you do.
Synthetic Oils (which Guzzi specify) work best at around 110-120°C, and anything below 95-odd won't get rid of the moisture in the Oil, so you get the 'Mayo' forming.
Moisture in the Oil can also combine with the Sulfurous by-products from Combustion, forming acids, which isn't good for Engine internals.
I originally ran mine with a cover over the Cooler in colder weather, then I made a Thermostat to go in the Cooling Oil Circuit.
It now warms up much quicker, and the Oil Temp settles around the 115-120° mark.
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Just fire it up and ride it, ride it, ride it and ride it a little more.
Then change the oil if you think it needs it, but it probably just needs riding.
I could be wrong, but once it forms I don't think the moisture will separate from the oil just due to engine heat.
I only ever experienced this on my Jackal, which I commuted on in winter, maybe only 20-30 minutes each way.
My B11 motor ran hotter and I rarely rode it THAT short a distance I'm the winter.
Haven't seen it on my V7 Stone yet, probably for similar reasons.
Haven't had the cover off the IIID YET.
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A good hot spring day and a long ride will resolve the situation. I vote for that fix :thumb:
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My Stelvio would struggle to get the Oil above around 75-80°C on cooler days (below around 12°C), even less if it was raining too.
Makes no difference how far you ride either, it'll reach it's 'normal' operating temperature for the conditions in around 15-20 mins, then pretty-much stay there no matter how many miles you do.
Synthetic Oils (which Guzzi specify) work best at around 110-120°C, and anything below 95-odd won't get rid of the moisture in the Oil, so you get the 'Mayo' forming.
Moisture in the Oil can also combine with the Sulfurous by-products from Combustion, forming acids, which isn't good for Engine internals.
Do you have anything to support the point that 75-80°C will not allow moisture to purge regardless of run time?
Again my experience is anecdotal, but with plenty of riding in subfreezing temps and almost all of it with synthetic oils, I've never seen the mayo on anything but the Jackal and even it was fine once I discovered it and lengthened the winter rides.
I don't believe the boiling point of water is the ultimate determinator here since we know water will evaporate below that right?
Now maybe oil temp measurement is the rogue element since whether it is measured at the sump or oil bag it doesn't tell us peak temp in the motor (say on the cylinder walls, v underside of the piston, and in the heads).
Of course I also suspect other ambient conditions play a part as well. The air here is generally very dry in winter, elsewhere that might not be the case.
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Do you have anything to support the point that 75-80°C will not allow moisture to purge regardless of run time?
Just the fact that mine suffered from the 'Mayo' in the Valve Covers (and other places unseen no doubt) at those Oil temps, even after long rides, until I fitted my Thermostat.
I've still seen a little of it even with the higher Oil temps, if I've only been doing short trips, particularly in wet weather, but no-where near as much as previously.
Even if I hadn't had the Mayo issue, I'd still have done the Thermostat mod.
I'm much happier knowing the Oil is up to it's 'optimum' working temperature, and gets there quicker.
Remember the old Castrol Oil TV ads, where they said 75% of Engine wear occurs during warm-up?
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I haven't checked the Guzzi manual, but my Harley manual says to change the oil more frequently when riding the bike in cold temps.
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I originally ran mine with a cover over the Cooler in colder weather, then I made a Thermostat to go in the Cooling Oil Circuit.
It now warms up much quicker, and the Oil Temp settles around the 115-120° mark.
Is there a write up of this mod somewhere?
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I don't believe the boiling point of water is the ultimate determinator here since we know water will evaporate below that right?
You're thinking in a good direction, Kev.
As a chef, you exploit the benefits of a barrier to water evaporation formed by an oil film. Oil is oil. Water is water, whether it's relatively pure water or a solution containing water. An emulsion is a very effective means of combining oil and water, where water molecules are evenly dispersed among/between the oil/lipid/long chain molecules. The more uniform the distribution- basically if each water molecule is uniformly coated or surrounded by lipid molecule(s) to separate & limit the water molecules from pooling together- the more durable the emulsion. Poorly done emulsions, like too many vinaigrettes, quickly separate back into oil and water-based liquid.
Add salt to the mix and it is a further barrier to evaporation. as water containing dissolved salt evaporates- especially if there is a somewhat stable surface- salt is left behind at the surface level, requiring water to rehydrate this salt before more water can evaporate. Even in a solution, salinity may be greater at the surface level as this happens. This slows water loss even more significantly, even when ambient temps are well above 212F. when employed in conjunction with the hypertonic/hypotonic function, this is how the greatly misunderstood process of brining works, whether or not oil is applied to the surface of the product.
I'm not an engine oil expert, but I wouldn't be surprised for there to be ionic compounds (salts) in there as well. short summary of some of this phenomenon - https://www.researchgate.net/publication/7900838_Evaporation_Rates_of_Water_from_Concentrated_Oil-in-Water_Emulsions (https://www.researchgate.net/publication/7900838_Evaporation_Rates_of_Water_from_Concentrated_Oil-in-Water_Emulsions)
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Smithswede's new to him 900 SS Ducati was making mayo on the way from Dallas to Cedar Vale . Solution was to run 90 MPH in 4th gear on the Indian Nations turnpike in Oklahoma for about 100 miles . Cleared it right up :grin:
Dusty
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Italian Tuneup.
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Cliff - interesting stuff, I need to read more about it thx.
Just the fact that mine suffered from the 'Mayo' in the Valve Covers (and other places unseen no doubt) at those Oil temps, even after long rides, until I fitted my Thermostat.
I've still seen a little of it even with the higher Oil temps, if I've only been doing short trips, particularly in wet weather, but no-where near as much as previously.
Even if I hadn't had the Mayo issue, I'd still have done the Thermostat mod.
I'm much happier knowing the Oil is up to it's 'optimum' working temperature, and gets there quicker.
Remember the old Castrol Oil TV ads, where they said 75% of Engine wear occurs during warm-up?
I hear ya, and that's what I figured. The problem is how to rectify our anecdotal experiences.
The differences include ambient conditions, the bike (8V Stelvio vs. my B11 or any of these smallblocks), not to mention differences in measurement (I have no oil temp data for my Guzzis, though I have taken plain head temp readings with infra-red, my oil temp data has come largely from Harleys with temp dipsticks so that's hard to compare).
I kinda feel like the key is preventing mayo from forming in the first place. My gut suggests that the occasional long run doesn't matter if there have already been sufficient short runs to form the stuff if that makes sense. I wonder how our usage differs in that case.
No matter it is up to each of us to check for the stuff (when we check valves) and make adjustments to our usage/maintenance etc. if we find it.
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Smithswede's new to him 900 SS Ducati was making mayo on the way from Dallas to Cedar Vale . Solution was to run 90 MPH in 4th gear on the Indian Nations turnpike in Oklahoma for about 100 miles . Cleared it right up :grin:
Dusty
Dusty, can you tell me more? This is interesting because it might point out my guesses about reversing it once it has occurred are wrong.
Or maybe there are just more factors in play than for which I can possibly account.
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It's one of the benefits of synthetic oils. Short trips add a lot of condensation to the oil making it into cottage cheese.
This in turn partially plugs oil returns and kills engines. solution is to use Dino oil or make only long trips.
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Seems like a poor engine breather system. PCV system undersized? (Need to get the condensation pulled out more efficiently)
Not sure how you could change it; so the answers above are best.
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Dusty, can you tell me more? This is interesting because it might point out my guesses about reversing it once it has occurred are wrong.
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Or maybe there are just more factors in play than for which I can possibly account.
I only know what Swede said , he will probably be along shortly to elaborate . Here is what we do know , it was cool and damp on the roughly 400 mile trip up , and he didn't ride much in CV due to several factors . He said the sight glass was showing nothing but white stuff , so the oil cooler was blocked off , still didn't clear up . The 100 mile blast at higher speeds , and warmer drier temps on the Indian Nations turnpike seems to have cleared up the oil . I am curious to hear what the chemists here say re the effects on the oil . Is it OK , is it ruined ? Swede and I had an interesting discussion about this after he was home , seems maybe these air cooled lumps are mostly over cooling in normal conditions .
Dusty
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The mayo problem is not unique to Guzzi. I had a similar case with air cooled Ducks. It was possible to eliminate the white stuff in the sight glass by taking the bike out for a long spirited ride. Riding in cool, wet, weather would bring the white stuff right back. The evaporative cooling from a wet road made it all but impossible to get oil hot enough. Pick a dry day.
Peter Y.
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The key to making a good emulsion, like mayo (edible or inedible...) is to agitate a larger quantity of fat/oil vigorously while introducing a smaller amount of liquid at a slower rate. Many culinary emulsions are taught to be made by doing the opposite. Whisk oil while slowly adding liquid. Fail. The oil shatters and then you try to break up the slippery globs of oil floating around in The liquid. Fail. Reverse the process and it actually produces a durable emulsion that will last exponentially longer. Edible mayonnaise is based upon adding oil to a whisked mixture that already contains lecithin (found in eggs, which promotes emulsion) so it is an enhanced process vs a simple oil & water emulsion.
The frenetic agitation of a larger quantity of oil by valve train components, partnered with a significantly lesser amount of present water that is already in relatively small particles or film, is an ideal way to produce a strong emulsion. Someone with more spare time and interest than I have could save some engine mayo, place it in a covered glass jar on the shelf and see how long it takes the condensate to separate & pool at the bottom of the jar. I bet it will take a while, not just a few minutes.
The synthetic vs Dino oil argument probably has more to do with synthetic having fewer other components present that also interact with the water in some manner. A lipid (oil) molecule is a long chain of individual compounds (think string of pearls) that provides lubricant qualities as these long molecules slide along each other and surfaces they contact. For a synthetic oil to lubricate like a Dino oil, the basic molecular structure is probably very close.
Swede's experience could be a combination of many things, including ambient humidity. Just as salt tends to equate in solution (hypertonic-hypotonic), humidity between areas or systems tends to equlalize in an effort to achieve homeostasis. If the weather-environmental humidity was pretty low and the engine breather worked well, humidity in the engine would work harder to equalize with environmental humidity outside. Little things like this are obvious when working in certain fields, such as dedicated baking & dough work. Certain conditions seem to create a more noticeable impact than others, so it's easy to attribute the results in a anecdotal direction than actual cause and effect result of chemical and physical processes. I expect you would generally see a drying of oil/reduction of mayo much faster when riding in an area of lower humidity like dallas to cv than in a high humidity area like along the gulf coast.
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^^^ :laugh:
All correct except for the part about it not being humid out here :shocked: At the moment we are at about 60% , on our way to 80% . I hate humidity :grin:
Dusty
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KTM 990s with a bad water pump seal would do this under the clutch cover. My Stelvio rarely had it, but trips are rarely shorter than 10 miles.
Get it hot, run it hard. The mayo will go away once the water is boiled off and vented. Oil will need to make it's way into the covers, so make sure your runs have a few sweepers.
Not a concern. Change the oil if you feel like it and check every so often, but nothing to worry about. The BMWs don't have this as the valve covers are not the high point of the system.
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I wonder if heat alone is really enough to remove all the mayo though.
I do remember the surprise the first time I found it on the Jackal because I believe it was more like mid-summer. The breather hoses and the valve covers were still thick with it despite long hot runs.
Of course this could also just be another case of variables. The Jackal cooled well, the valve covers were removed enough from both engine heat and oil passages, not to mention the damn breathers vented into the FRAME.... so who knows.
Maybe some can reverse the emulsification and others can't?!?
Maybe it depends how much/thick it is too or where it is located?!?
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FWIW: Only my EV has this problem. Never have had it with my loops.
When I first got my EV, I discovered the mayo and posted here about it. From what I learned, the breather system on my EV was the main culprit. With the oil/air separating in the frame tube and the heat difference in the tube, it would cause condensation to build. Hence the mayo effect.
IMHO: If your getting mayo, check the valve covers regularly and clean them as well as the oil drain passages from the frame (at least on my EV, not sure how other models return the oil from the frame). If you have a removable oil pan (small blocks??), when removed you will find the mayo there as well.
Dino oil may help the issue, don't know, I have never tried it.
For whatever reason, I have not had as much of an issue with mayo in the past year or so. When I fist got the bike, I checked it about once a month and cleaned the covers. Lately it has been staying fairly clean, as in why am I still checking. My riding conditions had not changed, so why the difference? Maybe the weather?? Don't know but I'm glad it dosen't happen as often.
Tom
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^^^ :laugh:
All correct except for the part about it not being humid out here :shocked: At the moment we are at about 60% , on our way to 80% . I hate humidity :grin:
Dusty
Don't ever come to Tennessee then. It doesn't take long for nature to reclaim what man has made.
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FWIW: Only my EV has this problem. Never have had it with my loops.
When I first got my EV, I discovered the mayo and posted here about it. From what I learned, the breather system on my EV was the main culprit. With the oil/air separating in the frame tube and the heat difference in the tube, it would cause condensation to build. Hence the mayo effect.
IMHO: If your getting mayo, check the valve covers regularly and clean them as well as the oil drain passages from the frame (at least on my EV, not sure how other models return the oil from the frame). If you have a removable oil pan (small blocks??), when removed you will find the mayo there as well.
Dino oil may help the issue, don't know, I have never tried it.
For whatever reason, I have not had as much of an issue with mayo in the past year or so. When I fist got the bike, I checked it about once a month and cleaned the covers. Lately it has been staying fairly clean, as in why am I still checking. My riding conditions had not changed, so why the difference?
Tom
I learned early on that you need to do the spring ride on the EV before you do your spring maintenance or otherwise you'd be shocked when you pulled the pan. From my house near Charlotte , a lunch in Little Switzerland was the perfect place to leave a pile of puke under the bike!
But after a good
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I always thought that a motorcycle engine should be redlined at least once every time a bike is taken on the road. Don't know if anyone agrees with this -and remember- I am the least mechanically inclined member on the board- but that's how I ride.
Now I have a bike that I can't redline in first gear unless I am on the highway. :lipsrsealed:
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I must be doing something right, for a change, as I have never experienced this Issue on any of the dozens of bikes I have owned and serviced. Just lucky I guess.
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Don't ever come to Tennessee then. It doesn't take long for nature to reclaim what man has made.
Same here in Eastern Oklahoma , 50 inches of rain a year , punctuated every few years with 90 inches :shocked: Down in the Ouchita mountains where we have the Okie camp out , along the top of the 70 mile long ridge running East and West the average is like 80 inches . Friends from other areas are always surprised to see how much rain we get here , my own yard turns into a jungle in about a week after mowing .
Dusty
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Funny. Dusty and I were just talking about this.
I've read a fair bit about this topic, because the old 2-valve air-cooled Ducati bikes are notorious for making the mayo. Which freaks everyone out and generates a lot of posts. But everyone says, and I can confirm, that the emulsion burns away if you get the oil hot enough. The water vapor is then expelled out of the breather tube.
I have never had this mayo thing happen on my 2013 V7 small block. I think it normally runs hot, and of course does not have an oil cooler. It also doesn't run much oil (1.5 quarts), which is one reason why I've never been to keen to get a sump spacer.
In contrast, my new-to-me 1996 Ducati 900SS has a big old oil cooler, and runs nearly 4 quarts of oil.
I rode it from Dallas to Cedar Vale in ambient temperatures of 48 to 52 degrees, with rain or mist most of the way. Arrived in Ponca City with so much mayo I couldn't see the oil level in the sight glass. So I covered up the oil cooler with duct tape, and rode a hour the next day to Cedar Vale at highway speeds of 70-75. Got to CV, no change in the mayo situation. Hmmm.
I left CV and rode another 2 hours at 70 to 75 mph, still with oil cooler covered. No change in mayo situation. Hmmm.
So then I just got pissed off. When I arrived at the essentially empty Indian Turnpike, I just flogged the bike for 2+ hours. Constant 95 to 100 mph. When I stopped for gas the next time, there was zero mayo, and everything was normal. It was also warmer that afternoon, with temps in the low 70s.
I conclude that the Ducati 2V engine is extremely well cooled. I suspect the oil cooler is not needed in normal riding, but only comes in handy for track use, or if you are in stop & go Houston traffic with outside temps of 105 degrees.
I also suspect this may be more common in air cooled engines than people suppose. You are only likely to see the mayo if you have an oil sight glass, or take a valve cover off. If you just have a dipstick, how would you know?
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I meant to add that the chemistry of burning gasoline is pretty interesting. For each gallon of gasoline burned in an engine, about one full gallon of water is produced.
Think about that the next time you are filling up your gas tank. All that gas you are pumping will soon be creating the same volume of water.
Thus we are creating a LOT of water, so it's not surprising that some of this will get into the oil, unless conditions are hot enough to "burn" it off.
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Not sure about the V7 Engines, but the 1200 8V is badly over-cooled.
If you fit an Oil Temp Gauge (and you really should do on an Oil/Air-Cooled Engine), you'd most likely find the Oil Temps don't get anywhere near what they should.
My Stelvio would struggle to get the Oil above around 75-80°C on cooler days (below around 12°C), even less if it was raining too.
Makes no difference how far you ride either, it'll reach it's 'normal' operating temperature for the conditions in around 15-20 mins, then pretty-much stay there no matter how many miles you do.
Synthetic Oils (which Guzzi specify) work best at around 110-120°C, and anything below 95-odd won't get rid of the moisture in the Oil, so you get the 'Mayo' forming.
Moisture in the Oil can also combine with the Sulfurous by-products from Combustion, forming acids, which isn't good for Engine internals.
I originally ran mine with a cover over the Cooler in colder weather, then I made a Thermostat to go in the Cooling Oil Circuit.
It now warms up much quicker, and the Oil Temp settles around the 115-120° mark.
+1
beetle recently posted how to plumb in stat
he’s logging oil temps and then result on fuel consumption
expecting positive result , search on here, for any bike with cooler it just makes sense, especially in cold climate or ridden gently.
but op has no cooler, this one classic never got warm
hopefully resolved with new owner but tempting to pull all pipes and clean them, if mayo has blocked breather box it may sprout some oil leaks.
lastly square head bb’s, notorious mayo in frame and pipes
answer is basic
rocker breather is under head , nice little u bend in hose before reaching cold frame
this is where mayo forms
i run my square head as carcano designed bb in 1965
no rocker breathers at all
no mayo , sustains high speed, no oil from breather or anywhere.
ymmv
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For what it's worth, I vote for humidity being the problem, cause I've never seen it in oil of any of the bikes I've run up here (Alaska) for the last forty years. I seldom ride when it's much above 70 and it's often in the 50's and 60's, so apparently that's warm enough when you have low humidity like we have in the interior. Use 20/50 non-synthetic oil.
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Another thing that compounds the problem is that in cool weather the ETS sends an artificially cool signal to to the ECU which then enriches the mixture too much. Richer mixture runs cooler and burns less efficiently resulting in higher bore wash and blow by contributing to a greater increase in water in the case and breather system.
Pete
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Never had any in my 2TB smallblock.
They are known for running fairly high oil temps.
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Never heard the mayo referred to as grease. Now if we could only get it placed on the dry splines from the factory.
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but op has no cooler, this one classic never got warm
hopefully resolved with new owner but tempting to pull all pipes and clean them, if mayo has blocked breather box it may sprout some oil leaks.
Again, thanking you in advance for patience with a newbie. What does it mean to pull all pipes?
Also, people will be relieved to know that I have put about 500 miles on the bike in the last two days
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Again, thanking you in advance for patience with a newbie. What does it mean to pull all pipes?
Also, people will be relieved to know that I have put about 500 miles on the bike in the last two days
There are a number of pipes linked from the (LH in the case of the 2TB) rocker box to various things. One is the air box, the idea is that the water vapour gets drawn off by the slight vacuum and then burnt as it goes in through the induction system. This pipe can get blocked by mayo. Needs to be clean so that the system works. Should also be a drain fron the air box to the ground. This is an oil overflow in case it decides to puke oil; the excess can then drain away rather than blocking your air filter with oil.
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Again, thanking you in advance for patience with a newbie. What does it mean to pull all pipes?
Also, people will be relieved to know that I have put about 500 miles on the bike in the last two days
i reckon all good but as Muzz said have a peek inside airbox, if all clean with slight mist is working, if mayo about still about, clean any hoses thoroughly, get the pdf manual for routing, on older sb’s there is drain from breather box to behind sump, if this gets kinked or blocked, they breathe oil,
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Take this for what I’m charging you. I would not muck about wrenching on your bike or trying to inspect and clean pipes. I’d just ride the bike a good long way, and get it stinking hot.
I would only mess with the bike if the problem persists despite you knowing you have done hundreds of miles with the bike plenty hot.
This mayo stuff will evaporate by itself if you get it hot enough.
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There are a number of pipes linked from the (LH in the case of the 2TB) rocker box to various things. One is the air box, the idea is that the water vapour gets drawn off by the slight vacuum and then burnt as it goes in through the induction system. This pipe can get blocked by mayo. Needs to be clean so that the system works. Should also be a drain fron the air box to the ground. This is an oil overflow in case it decides to puke oil; the excess can then drain away rather than blocking your air filter with oil.
I don't think there is a hose to the ground. From the bottom of the air box there is a hose that drains condensed oil vapor back to the sump.
Inside the air box where the drain outlet is, there is a very porous black plastic sponge to help condense the oil vapor.
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How does oil presure comes into play here as Water boils at higher temperatures when pressurized.
That may support the get it good and hot ( at leasst over 110deg) to stay clear of the mayo.
From that I'm also curious about the location where the mayo is typically found. Could it be in an area of higher oil presure and lower oil temp compared to the rest of the oil system?
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I don't think there is a hose to the ground. From the bottom of the air box there is a hose that drains condensed oil vapor back to the sump.
Inside the air box where the drain outlet is, there is a very porous black plastic sponge to help condense the oil vapor.
I have two hoses going to the ground; that is not counting the battery one. They do have rubber plugs in them. As they have remained completely clear so they have never been removed. Earlier on I tracked them and one did appear to be coming from the air box. Of course, my eyes may have got all confused by the feculent mishmash in there and I have got it completely wrong. :undecided:
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Take this for what I’m charging you. I would not muck about wrenching on your bike or trying to inspect and clean pipes. I’d just ride the bike a good long way, and get it stinking hot.
I would only mess with the bike if the problem persists despite you knowing you have done hundreds of miles with the bike plenty hot.
This mayo stuff will evaporate by itself if you get it hot enough.
for your duc and almost certainly the OP
+100
use it or loose it
but over cooled and under ridden may not always be fixed by good hiding,
ymmv
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I have two hoses going to the ground; that is not counting the battery one. They do have rubber plugs in them. As they have remained completely clear so they have never been removed. Earlier on I tracked them and one did appear to be coming from the air box. Of course, my eyes may have got all confused by the feculent mishmash in there and I have got it completely wrong. :undecided:
But don't you only have a 2TB model?!?
IIRC the breather system was changed on 1TBs and maybe again on IIIs (I haven't checked.
I believe there was some speculation that might have been part of the cure for sudden oil consumption. Though that speculation arises largely from correlation.
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A lot of the Ducati guys say that you can also fix this mayo problem by leaving the oil fill cap off the engine overnight or for a few days, so that there is a clear path to the outside environment for the moisture in the oil to evaporate.
The theory is that the crank case vent has a one-way valve, that only permits gas to be expelled out of the crankcase and into the breather when there is a positive pressure in the crankcase due to movement of the pistons. Thus when the engine is not running, the valve is closed, and there's no good path for the water to evaporate. Opening the oil fill cap provides such a path.
I have not tried that myself so cannot vouch for it. But it's cheap and easy. Personally, I vote ride it hard, get it hot, and worry not.
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But don't you only have a 2TB model?!?
IIRC the breather system was changed on 1TBs and maybe again on IIIs (I haven't checked.
I believe there was some speculation that might have been part of the cure for sudden oil consumption. Though that speculation arises largely from correlation.
Yeah, I did state that Kev as I have never had a close look at a 1TB model to see how much different they are.. Could well have been changes as I know the airbox is of course completely different on the 1TB's.
The airbox on the 2TB is a real bear to work on. :rolleyes:
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Any problem that's solved by going for a long ride isn't really a problem :thumb:
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Take this for what I’m charging you. I would not muck about wrenching on your bike or trying to inspect and clean pipes. I’d just ride the bike a good long way, and get it stinking hot.
I would only mess with the bike if the problem persists despite you knowing you have done hundreds of miles with the bike plenty hot.
This mayo stuff will evaporate by itself if you get it hot enough.
Did 256 miles today - temps in the high 80's. Tried to keep the revs up.
That is in addition to almost 500 miles in the previous days.
I'm doing my best :)
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When a problem comes along
You must whip it
Before the ****cream**** sits out too long
You must whip it
When something's going wrong
You must whip it
Now whip it
Into shape
Shape it up
Get straight
Go forward
Move ahead
Try to detect it
It's not too late
To whip it
Whip it good
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A lot of the Ducati guys say that you can also fix this mayo problem by leaving the oil fill cap off the engine overnight or for a few days, so that there is a clear path to the outside environment for the moisture in the oil to evaporate.
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I have not tried that myself so cannot vouch for it. But it's cheap and easy. Personally, I vote ride it hard, get it hot, and worry not.
I can vouch, from my experience with my Jackal, there is no ducking way, no, no, no ducking way that the dipstick cover off would work on a Tonti Guzzi like that.
Hell I'm still not sure getting it hot, hot, hot would work, as it never did that I could confirm on my Jackal. IIRC when I did discover the mayo it was mid year and months after any winter riding.
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How does oil pressure comes into play here, as Water boils at higher temperatures when pressurized . . .
Not really applicable in this case Pisano, as the only Oil under any Pressure is the handful of CCs in the Pipes and Drillings between the Pump and the Crank Bearings.