Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Chuck in Indiana on May 24, 2019, 11:51:33 AM
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I just replaced the two tail light bulbs in the AeroLaro with LEDs. Wowza! Those bad boyz are bright. Also, it seems to make no difference on the voltmeter reading when the brake lights come on. Before, holding the brake on would send the voltmeter into the red.
So.
Yes, I searched here for recommendations. On a quick search, the last I saw was in 2017. Is anything new that works :smiley: and is uhh, inexpensive? (Guzzi content) FWIW, I don't ride at night, just looking for something to make it easier on my antique charging system.
TIA
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If you're sticking with the original Lario headlight, then that locks you into an LED bulb. I've tried a few different ones: no name off of Amazon ($13), "Safego" also from Amazon ($19), ADVmonster Native H4 ($45) and now it's replacement the H4R2 ($50) http://stores.advmonster.com/native-h4r2/. All of them have been much brighter than the halogen they replaced while using much less power. The Native H4 was the best of the bunch, the Native H4R2 is in my V700, but I haven't had it out at night yet to see how the beam spread is with the Hella headlight.
That's the thing - the bulb is only a part of the equation - it may or may not be compatible with the reflector and lens. It's not uncommon to have a narrow beam, bright and dark spots. But, if your primary concern is less load on the electrical system, then just about any would do. In that case the Safego would probably be my choice. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C1AOSVS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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There's a thread on the topic on the grisoghetto.com site that's worth looking at. The GRiSO has the same headlight as the V7s. The conclusion I got from it was that at present, the better lamps are still somewhat expensive, but the cost is significantly less in the U.S.
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I haven't tried the Native Rev2 yet, but, the original works quite well with the H4 reflector I bought for my Eldo from MG Cycle.
When looking at it, it about 1/4 of the reflector on top appears to not put any light, undoubtable a shadow due to the shape of the heat sink, but, the rest of it is quite bright, and the whole thing works together to put a nice beam on the road, but low and high.
Looking at the Rev2, the heatsink looks like it will block less light. I'll bet it is even better. I'm going to buy one for my Le Mans, and if I like it, I'll get one for my R90S as well.
I have ADVMonster lights in several of my bikes, including various versions of their H7's in my Monster and R1200RS, and H4 "Mesh Monsters" in both my V7's. I have been very happy with all their products.
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I know there are plug & play units out there. I did our 2 Scouts with Indian parts, they would likely work if they fit your shell but they are not totally Guzzi $tyle if you get my drift.
The light is amazing.
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One thing to check before you get to ordering though: base shape. All of the LED bulbs have a P43T base (round-ish with three prongs) and some Italian headlights (V50, V65, Morini, etc.) use a P45T base bulb which is larger, still round, but without tabs. I'm not sure which the Lario had. All is not lost though - a simple adapter allows one to use the P43T in a P45T headlight.
https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/products/p45t-r2-h5-to-p43t-h4-bulb-adapter
(https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1109/5094/products/P45T_Ad_1024x1024.jpg?v=1546427142)
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Thanks all, I have one ordered. Gotta love WG.. :thumb:
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:drool:A red led bulb under a red lenses will be twice as bright as a clear led bulb with no additional power used.
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A bit of drift but I started putting a relay on the brake lights, just one of those inch square generic relays. This was before the LEDs became available , with LED s you don't need a relay of course but with incandescent bulbs it sure helped with brightness and switch life.
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I'm using these in the Convert turn signals now. Super bright!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BXT4WRN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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I've tried several but I've had best luck with the Cyclops H4.
Looks like they have a new upgrade out.
https://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/Dual-Sport-Bikes--LED-Headlight-Bulbs_c_128.html
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One thing I've noticed about some LED replacements for 1157s (taillight bulbs) is that the bright part of the beam is incredibly narrow. They also don't throw light back to the reflector of the tail light so someone behind sees a bright spot (if they are in the beam) rather than the whole tail light light up. I installed a bright 1157 replacement and a friend following me couldn't see it - she was below the beam.
Maybe the newer ones are better, but I recently installed LED replacements for the original festoon bulbs (think VW bug dome light) in the bacon slicer. They were very bright, but beam was so narrow that they didn't light up the whole taillight and there was very little difference between running and brake lights.
The LED headlight bulb was a much better design that utilized the reflector to distribute the beam.
It is worth checking the beam side to side - especially on tail lights.
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One thing I've noticed about some LED replacements for 1157s (taillight bulbs) is that the bright part of the beam is incredibly narrow. They also don't throw light back to the reflector of the tail light so someone behind sees a bright spot (if they are in the beam) rather than the whole tail light light up. I installed a bright 1157 replacement and a friend following me couldn't see it - she was below the beam.
Maybe the newer ones are better, but I recently installed LED replacements for the original festoon bulbs (think VW bug dome light) in the bacon slicer. They were very bright, but beam was so narrow that they didn't light up the whole taillight and there was very little difference between running and brake lights.
The LED headlight bulb was a much better design that utilized the reflector to distribute the beam.
It is worth checking the beam side to side - especially on tail lights.
Thank you- great info that's much appreciated. I'm working towards an LED upgrade a festoon bulb CEV taillight right now with little LED experience. Your post answers several questions of mine very well.
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Great info here. Subscribing :cool:
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One thing I've noticed about some LED replacements for 1157s (taillight bulbs) is that the bright part of the beam is incredibly narrow. They also don't throw light back to the reflector of the tail light so someone behind sees a bright spot (if they are in the beam) rather than the whole tail light light up. I installed a bright 1157 replacement and a friend following me couldn't see it - she was below the beam.
Maybe the newer ones are better, but I recently installed LED replacements for the original festoon bulbs (think VW bug dome light) in the bacon slicer. They were very bright, but beam was so narrow that they didn't light up the whole taillight and there was very little difference between running and brake lights.
The LED headlight bulb was a much better design that utilized the reflector to distribute the beam.
It is worth checking the beam side to side - especially on tail lights.
Thanks for the info. I was thinking of swapping to LED in the tail light of my low mile California stone to take away some of the heat that melts the housings on these... but ill research more if there is a issue with beam width.
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No problem with beam width on these.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C63K92T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
How long will they last? No idea, but at $18 for 4 I thought them worth a gamble.
I took a couple of pix, but Flickr is apparently having a snit. I'll try WGs site that doesn't play well with Google photos..
Nope that didn't work either. :rolleyes: You'll have to imagine really bright tail lights from the back and the side..
edit:
Here's the back view.. brake lights on.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47929378107_177310b3ef_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2g2mAh4)2019-05-25_10-13-14 (https://flic.kr/p/2g2mAh4) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
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Good tip Chuck, lots more LEDs and around the sides. The 2 I tried both had all the LEDs pointing aft.
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Good tip Chuck, lots more LEDs and around the sides. The 2 I tried both had all the LEDs pointing aft.
Not me, Charlie pointed to them. I just pushed the "buy it now" button. :grin:
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If you're sticking with the original Lario headlight, then that locks you into an LED bulb. I've tried a few different ones: no name off of Amazon ($13), "Safego" also from Amazon ($19), ADVmonster Native H4 ($45) and now it's replacement the H4R2 ($50) http://stores.advmonster.com/native-h4r2/. All of them have been much brighter than the halogen they replaced while using much less power. The Native H4 was the best of the bunch, the Native H4R2 is in my V700, but I haven't had it out at night yet to see how the beam spread is with the Hella headlight.
That's the thing - the bulb is only a part of the equation - it may or may not be compatible with the reflector and lens. It's not uncommon to have a narrow beam, bright and dark spots. But, if your primary concern is less load on the electrical system, then just about any would do. In that case the Safego would probably be my choice. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C1AOSVS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Out of touch codger that I am, I didn't know about LED H4 replacement emitters. A longstanding complaint of mine is that bikes have their headlights on all the time, since '78 or so. Not going to spend the $$ on a Euro spec handlebar switch. So I sprung for the ADVmonster H4R2. What you said about the light pattern changing piqued my interest. Before changing the bulb, I put my bike on the centerstand, and placed a large piece of cardboard in front of the bike about 6' away. I then turned on the bike, and traced the pattern of the beam on the cardboard with a Sharpie. Did the same for the high beam. Then I switched out the bulb. The emitter didn't fit at first. Some judicious trimming of the bulb socket with a straight carbide burr tip in my trusty Dremel gave the emitter the clearance that it needed. Checked the beam patterns against my halogen bulb, the high beam pattern was the same, albeit much brighter. The low beam was pretty much the same, but somewhat wider. Can't wait til dark tonight, see what it looks like on the road. Happiness is cheap today at $57!
Some non-Guzzi content here. When I restored my boat 15 years ago, the hot ticket for marine lighting was xenon fixtures. Fast forward to today, all new marine light fixtures are LEDs. I was able to replace all the xenon bulbs in my vessel with replacement LED emitters. My house battery bank thanked me...
Larry
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Some non-Guzzi content here. When I restored my boat 15 years ago, the hot ticket for marine lighting was xenon fixtures. Fast forward to today, all new marine light fixtures are LEDs. I was able to replace all the xenon bulbs in my vessel with replacement LED emitters. My house battery bank thanked me...
Larry
I changed all the house lighting on my camper to LED's. I went 10 days on the battery and it was still working. Worked for me!
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Out of touch codger that I am, I didn't know about LED H4 replacement emitters. A longstanding complaint of mine is that bikes have their headlights on all the time, since '78 or so. Not going to spend the $$ on a Euro spec handlebar switch. So I sprung for the ADVmonster H4R2. What you said about the light pattern changing piqued my interest. Before changing the bulb, I put my bike on the centerstand, and placed a large piece of cardboard in front of the bike about 6' away. I then turned on the bike, and traced the pattern of the beam on the cardboard with a Sharpie. Did the same for the high beam. Then I switched out the bulb. The emitter didn't fit at first. Some judicious trimming of the bulb socket with a straight carbide burr tip in my trusty Dremel gave the emitter the clearance that it needed. Checked the beam patterns against my halogen bulb, the high beam pattern was the same, albeit much brighter. The low beam was pretty much the same, but somewhat wider. Can't wait til dark tonight, see what it looks like on the road. Happiness is cheap today at $57!
Some non-Guzzi content here. When I restored my boat 15 years ago, the hot ticket for marine lighting was xenon fixtures. Fast forward to today, all new marine light fixtures are LEDs. I was able to replace all the xenon bulbs in my vessel with replacement LED emitters. My house battery bank thanked me...
Larry
When installing the previous version Native H4, I needed to open up the bulb socket on a customer's '02 EV as well - not much, basically removing some casting flash.
Good to hear that the Native H4R2 has a proper beam spread. On most of the LED bulbs I've tried, it didn't seem like the designer put much thought into retaining the correct "focal length", but ADVmonster did.
Still haven't had my V700 out after dark to see how the H4R2 works in my Hella headlight. Maybe this weekend at the Western NY Rally.
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I had to relieve the socket from 11 o'clock to 1 o'clock, and 7 o'clock to 5 o'clock. What you said earlier about V50 lights brought up a memory. Mrs. larrys had a V50 II some thirty years ago. The headlight was awful. I took an H4 bulb, removed the ring and soldered the ring from the incandescent bulb onto it. I mocked up the light, put 12V to it and slid the bulb in and out to get the best beam pattern then put the solder to it. Focal length IS important!
Larry
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Thanks for the info/ your experience on the LED headlight bulbs, Charlie. I just bought the Native H4R2 for my Eldorado. Its about time they came out with a bulb that will fit in our "limited space housings". I am still running the stock Bosch generator, so I think this will work out well.
Rick.
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Thanks for the info/ your experience on the LED headlight bulbs, Charlie. I just bought the Native H4R2 for my Eldorado. Its about time they came out with a bulb that will fit in our "limited space housings". I am still running the stock Bosch generator, so I think this will work out well.
Rick.
All of the bulbs I referenced/linked to in my first post will work in the shallow headlight bucket. The Native H4R2 just seems to be the best of the bunch thus far.
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The Sylvania red LED tail light replacements don't suffer from that issue. Ccalled Zeno or zano or something close to that. Just put one in my V7-works a treat.
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I am currently looking on AliExpress at LED headlight bulbs. I know the quality would be 'orrible but a twinpack delivered to NZ for about $16NZ is doable for a trial.
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I am currently looking on AliExpress at LED headlight bulbs. I know the quality would be 'orrible but a twinpack delivered to NZ for about $16NZ is doable for a trial.
Not headlight bulbs, but I purchased two from Amazon for my tail-lights on the V11 Le Mans and the V7-III Stone. They worked great.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A77TV4Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
For my headlight on the Griso I fitted one of these
https://www.amazon.com/Brightest-Headlights-Signal-Wrangler-Adapter/dp/B01L6YA2XS/ref=pd_rhf_ee_p_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CZAMG2BXS34NKHPCBYK3
I've never had any luck with a LED bulb replacement for my headlights. If you do find something that works, I'm all ears!
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I just put a pair of 6 volt 1154 tail light bulbs in my XL125 and F7 175, you can now see the tail light in the daylight and very bright stop lights. i'm a happy guy. I just hope they can hold up to the vibration.
Is there a 6" replacement 6 volt headlight? Found a couple but they where north of $400.
https://www.ledlight.com/g18-s25-2_6-watt-1157-6-volt-ac-non-polarity.aspx
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I just put a pair of 6 volt 1154 tail light bulbs in my XL125 and F7 175, you can now see the tail light in the daylight and very bright stop lights. i'm a happy guy. I just hope they can hold up to the vibration.
Is there a 6" replacement 6 volt headlight? Found a couple but they where north of $400.
https://www.ledlight.com/g18-s25-2_6-watt-1157-6-volt-ac-non-polarity.aspx
If you can find a headlight that uses a BA20D base bulb, then Bench Mark Works has a 6 volt LED bulb.
http://www.benchmarkworks.com/
(http://www.benchmarkworks.com/onlinestore/partno/img_e1377.jpg)
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I've never had any luck with a LED bulb replacement for my headlights. If you do find something that works, I'm all ears!
Yo Dave. Could you elaborate on what you have tried? Do you mean that you have been unable to track any down?
The ones I am looking at appear to have the contacts on the end which would just push on as the existing ones do. The only thing that I am concerned about is whether there is enough room at the end of the headlight shell to accommodate the module on the bulb.
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That's not the only issue. The area of the light emitting part is larger than that of an incandescent bulb. The reflector is only designed for one focal point on the fresnel lens, which means that even the twin filaments on the bulb is a compromise.
You may get it to fit, but I reckon you're gonna be unhappy with the performance.
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That's not the only issue. The area of the light emitting part is larger than that of an incandescent bulb. The reflector is only designed for one focal point on the fresnel lens, which means that even the twin filaments on the bulb is a compromise.
You may get it to fit, but I reckon you're gonna be unhappy with the performance.
Thanks Dave.
The only reason (other than the available space) that I was considering it was the price; cheap enough that it was no great loss and if they worked (hence the twin pack) then the extra brightness would be a bonus and I would have a spare.
I suspect that the Chinese made stuff has got better. We fitted a 5hp Loncin mower engine on a mower that does a bit of rough stuff as well as a big area and it has out performed the Briggs we used to have on it. With the cheap LED bulbs that I have put in the house I have yet to have had a failure, and the price of them would have me suspect they are of Chinese origin.
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That's not the only issue. The area of the light emitting part is larger than that of an incandescent bulb. The reflector is only designed for one focal point on the fresnel lens, which means that even the twin filaments on the bulb is a compromise.
You may get it to fit, but I reckon you're gonna be unhappy with the performance.
It's true that the LED chip is wider than the incandescent element, but the chip and the element are almost exactly the same length and positioned at the same focal point which I think matter more.
It's hard to take photos and hold the ruler too, but here's a halogen vs. cheapy Chinese LED and slightly less cheapy Chinese LED. If I was able to hold the camera at exactly the same place each time, you'd see that the high and low elements of the halogen bulb are in virtually the exact same position as the high and low chips of the LED bulbs.
(https://i.ibb.co/xj3R7d5/Bulbs-halogen-vs-LED-001.jpg) (https://ibb.co/xj3R7d5)
(https://i.ibb.co/ZBHgnGZ/Bulbs-halogen-vs-LED-003.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ZBHgnGZ)
(https://i.ibb.co/487DkzM/Bulbs-halogen-vs-LED-005.jpg) (https://ibb.co/487DkzM)
Whether or not one is disappointed in the performance depends on what they were trying to improve. All of the LED bulbs I've tried are brighter and more noticeable to other roads users. They also use less power/lessen the load on older charging systems. As you note, night-time performance is another thing, and I was a little disappointed with my first experience with an LED bulb in an H4 headlight. The second try with a higher quality reflector and LED bulb was better. Then I bought a JW Speaker LED sealed beam unit and that was just amazing. :azn: But, I'm giving it a third try in my V700 with an even better H4 headlight (Hella) and Native H4R2 LED bulb. We'll see how that works.
In Chuck's case, I doubt he will be disappointed with the LED - night-time performance wasn't a concern. Since there is no LED sealed beam unit to fit a Lario, an LED bulb is his only alternative...
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Thanks Charlie. Very informative. :thumb:
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It's very bright, Charlie. My voltmeter likes it. <shrug> I'm in bed before it gets dark enough to use it at night. We're in the same time zone as Maine. :rolleyes:
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It's very bright, Charlie. My voltmeter likes it. <shrug> I'm in bed before it gets dark enough to use it at night. We're in the same time zone as Maine. :rolleyes:
If you don't mind me asking, which one did you end up buying?
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Safego..
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:thumb:
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I’m planning on dropping the silver led shown in Muzz third pic. I’m a bit concerned about the heat created as the led has a big heat sink with a fan! I haven’t opened up the B1100 headlight bucket yet, but I’m thinking a couple strategic holes drilled might be needed?
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I’m planning on dropping the silver led shown in Muzz third pic. I’m a bit concerned about the heat created as the led has a big heat sink with a fan! I haven’t opened up the B1100 headlight bucket yet, but I’m thinking a couple strategic holes drilled might be needed?
Do you mean in my third photo? That's the "Safego" bulb. Heat apparently isn't an issue as the lens is barely even warm - not nearly as warm as with a halogen bulb.
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Yes, Very informative, Thank you, Charlie! I have the Hella headlight , like you ,in my eldo. Have been running a Sylvania Silverstar halogen bulb, and the light output is pretty decent.I ordered the Native H4R, it should arrive any day.
Looking forward to checking it out, I will let the group know how it goes.
I do alot of night riding in the summer, when the daytime temps are high.
Rick.
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Yes, the safego. Thanks for the info.
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I’m planning on dropping the silver led shown in Muzz third pic. I’m a bit concerned about the heat created as the led has a big heat sink with a fan! I haven’t opened up the B1100 headlight bucket yet, but I’m thinking a couple strategic holes drilled might be needed?
Charlies photos, not mine.
Yes, the bulb stays really cool, it's the whizzies in the back that get hot. Some have the fan, some don't. It's usually the high performing ones that need a fan to dissipate the heat. Still working on that aspect, as without actually seeing them I don't know whether there is enough room at the back of the shell to fit the fan in. There is a bit of a shroud for want of a better term that helps to protect the connector. The fan model may well require a bit of restructuring of the shell, something I don't want to do in case the trial doesn't work out.
When I first wired my garage I put in 6 x 150 watt incandescent warm daylight bulbs, consuming 900 watts worth of power. I have since replaced them with cheap cool daylight LED's that are supposed to be the equivalent of about 90 watts each. The difference in light is simply staggeringly better and now the garage is consuming only 48 watts.
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Yeah, I connverted the shop, Guzzi garage (tm) basement, closets, etc. 2 or 3 years ago. The light is substantially brighter, and usage is down. Now, they are saying that LED lighting causes cancer. :rolleyes: <shrug>
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Whoops. The Breva uses a two prong lamp, the led I bought is a three prong! In my defense I purchased it originally for my TT250, and then thought why not try it out on the Breva, now I know why!
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I'm not en elctromagician, but, you may still be able to use it. Remember, one of the connectors is a ground. Check your two wires, one may be high or low and the bulb grounds through the housing???????
Tom
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You may be right, but the prongs are larger than the two prong bulb. More monkeying around than I want to deal with.
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You may be right, but the prongs are larger than the two prong bulb. More monkeying around than I want to deal with.
The Breva headlight has two bulbs doesn't it - an H7 and an H9? One is high beam and one is low beam.
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The H4 Incandescent lamp filaments are arranged to be in the focal point of the reflector, the LED is flat and one sided so at best it only uses half of the reflector, in spite of that they are very bright, imagine what its like with a reflector designed to go with the LED not as an afterthought.
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Native H4R2:
(https://cdn1.bigcommerce.com/n-yp39j5/t5q3au/products/269/images/988/comparisonnative2halo__09093.1555447992.1280.1280.jpg?c=2)
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I stand corrected, it looks as though that Halogen filament is shrouded also.
I'm currently running a lamp in my Griso, it has the fan right behind the LED chips inside the reflector. I thought it would be a 10 day wonder but it refuses to die, even the Dempster highway wouldn't shake it to bits.
That one you show looks good, where are those from?
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I stand corrected, it looks as though that Halogen filament is shrouded also.
I'm currently running a lamp in my Griso, it has the fan right behind the LED chips inside the reflector. I thought it would be a 10 day wonder but it refuses to die, even the Dempster highway wouldn't shake it to bits.
That one you show looks good, where are those from?
http://stores.advmonster.com/native-h4r2/
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The photometrics of LED bulbs using a reflector designed for H4 halogens have improved significantly of late - eg, the H4R2. But for daytime riding, even earlier-generation LED bulbs are fine, given that the beam scatter makes the bike visible to cagers from more angles than with the more-tightly-focussed H4. Daytime conspicuity and nighttime vision are two quite separate functions.
I am happy with an inexpensive Chinese LED headlight bulb that has ferocious lumen output but notable beam scatter: I do not ride in the early morning, near sundown or in the dark, because Bambi owns the night roads in this area.
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I went for an evening ride the other night. Wow, what a difference! The H4R2 works great! Beam pattern is the same, as I figured when I did the cardboard test, but magnitudes brighter. I went and ordered the Antline 1157 and 1156 emitters for my taillight and turn signals.
Larry
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I'm running a pair of $51 on Amazon LED "ditch lights" on both the Convert and V700. Super wide beam - ditches, fields, woods, everything off to the sides lit up, but also a very flat beam so oncoming traffic isn't blinded.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X19TGND/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
In combination with the JW Speaker LED headlight on the Convert, they provide the best lighting I've ever had on any vehicle.
(https://i.ibb.co/t8SCbC8/V700-front-view-001.jpg) (https://ibb.co/t8SCbC8)
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I'm running a pair of $51 on Amazon LED "ditch lights" on both the Convert and V700. Super wide beam - ditches, fields, woods, everything off to the sides lit up, but also a very flat beam so oncoming traffic isn't blinded.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X19TGND/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
In combination with the JW Speaker LED headlight on the Convert, they provide the best lighting I've ever had on any vehicle.
(https://i.ibb.co/t8SCbC8/V700-front-view-001.jpg) (https://ibb.co/t8SCbC8)
I like those. I need a pair for my Eldorado!
I just need mounts.
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Whoops. The Breva uses a two prong lamp, the led I bought is a three prong! In my defense I purchased it originally for my TT250, and then thought why not try it out on the Breva, now I know why!
I'd better check the B750 one. Being an H4 I just assumed it would be a three.
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I like those. I need a pair for my Eldorado!
I just need mounts.
They're mounted to the s.s. signal brackets MG Cycle sells:
http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=37_156&products_id=2538
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They're mounted to the s.s. signal brackets MG Cycle sells:
http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=37_156&products_id=2538
One pic on that shows the turn signal mounts, and the bracket for the aux lights. Are both included?
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One pic on that shows the turn signal mounts, and the bracket for the aux lights. Are both included?
No, these brackets:
(http://www.mgcycle.com/images/atrex/12751305prs.jpg)
are all that's included and all I used. I just rotated the LED sealed beam 90 degrees.
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Norge so not H4 in reflector lense but some Norge riders might be watching.
Rather similar to Diploman, I have 5000K (Bright White) HID H3 low beam for nighttime illumination and 3000K (Golden Yellow) LED H1 high beam for daytime visibility. The OPT7 25W HID H3 has an excellent pattern in the projector lenses and doesn't endanger them like a 35W or 55W HID would. The SNGL was the highest quality H1 LED that would fit through the opening and in the projector lenses has a wide beam spread that is useless at night. I had to slit the low beam weatherboots to fit the longer H3s but the high beam weatherboots fit the H1s properly.
The OPT7 AC HIDs only take 3-4 seconds for full intensity but are not recommended for those needing both low and high beams functional for illumination -- stick with your incandescents.
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Duh. If I had clicked on the small image to see the big one, I'd have seen that.
I've got my turn signals mounted on those (original, painted ones, but, same shape).
I'd like the other bit that holds the aux lights as shown in the other pic on that link:
(https://i.ibb.co/G3yjWHb/Screen-Shot-2019-06-08-at-7-47-57-AM.png) (https://ibb.co/0VT3Csd)
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I've ridden the AeroLario with LED head and taillights for a week of short trips, now. It's my daily driver, and does short trips a lot. The volt meter says the state of charge of the battery is much better. I used to have to occasionally charge it when doing this. I'm a happy camper. :thumb: Thanks for all the info..gotta love WG..
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Hello Folks I wanted to report back, I received my native H4R led headlight bulb a couple of days ago, and first tried it in my eldo, and no joy. My eldo has a Cibie headlight reflector, and the plug on the back,would hit my fuses. It was actually about 1/4" longer than the halogen H4 bulb I had in there, and it was enough, that even with a shallow plug where the wires exit the side, it still hit.
Next I tried in my Lemans IV square headlight, and the pointed nose of the Native,would hit the little center deflector inside the headlight housing, keeping the bulb from seating properly on the flange.
Next ,I tried it in my son's RZ 350 with the huge round headlight, and the fat ,finned part would not clear the headlight opening. I suppose with some trimming with a dremel, it could be made to fit, but I didnt want to modify the bike, and put the silverstar back in.
Lastly I tried it in the autopal headlight in my Cal II, and it fit perfect, without any mods. I just got back from a night ride to test it, and The light output is excellent, and the pattern on the road in both high beam and low is very good. So far , I am happy with it.
Did you guys know this bulb has a tiny fan about the diameter of a nickel, to blow air through the fins? It seems to work almost silently, only time will tell how long it will last.
Rick.
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I'm using these in the Convert turn signals now. Super bright!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BXT4WRN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I got the Antline LED emitters for my taillight and turn signal lights. Hecho en China, but cheap enough we'll see how long they last. The taillight LED's are easily twice as bright as the incandescent bulbs. Happy there!
However, the turn signal LED's are having an issue. When I replace just one bulb on a side with a LED, the turn signals blink normally. When I replace both bulbs on a side with the LED's, the turn signal lamp on the dash comes on, and the emitters just glow dimly, not blinking. What's up with that? Is it because the LED's don't draw enough amps to trip the flasher? Can I add a resister to the circuit or maybe install a different flasher? Head scratcher for sure... For now I am running the LED's on the front with the incandescent bulbs on the back.
Larry
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I got the Antline LED emitters for my taillight and turn signal lights. Hecho en China, but cheap enough we'll see how long they last. The taillight LED's are easily twice as bright as the incandescent bulbs. Happy there!
However, the turn signal LED's are having an issue. When I replace just one bulb on a side with a LED, the turn signals blink normally. When I replace both bulbs on a side with the LED's, the turn signal lamp on the dash comes on, and the emitters just glow dimly, not blinking. What's up with that? Is it because the LED's don't draw enough amps to trip the flasher? Can I add a resister to the circuit or maybe install a different flasher? Head scratcher for sure... For now I am running the LED's on the front with the incandescent bulbs on the back.
Larry
If you go all LED in the signals, you will need resistors or a different flasher. I used a "no load" flasher from Greg Bender.
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I've ridden the AeroLario with LED head and taillights for a week of short trips, now. It's my daily driver, and does short trips a lot. The volt meter says the state of charge of the battery is much better. I used to have to occasionally charge it when doing this. I'm a happy camper. :thumb: Thanks for all the info..gotta love WG..
Hi Chuck - sorry if I missed it...can you please provide the link to the headlight you bought? I'm following your lead here (have tail lights coming)... Thanks!
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If you go all LED in the signals, you will need resistors or a different flasher. I used a "no load" flasher from Greg Bender.
Thank you! Sent Greg an email.
Larry
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Hi Chuck - sorry if I missed it...can you please provide the link to the headlight you bought? I'm following your lead here (have tail lights coming)... Thanks!
This is the one he bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C1AOSVS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Hello Folks I wanted to report back, I received my native H4R led headlight bulb a couple of days ago, and first tried it in my eldo, and no joy. My eldo has a Cibie headlight reflector, and the plug on the back,would hit my fuses. It was actually about 1/4" longer than the halogen H4 bulb I had in there, and it was enough, that even with a shallow plug where the wires exit the side, it still hit.
Next I tried in my Lemans IV square headlight, and the pointed nose of the Native,would hit the little center deflector inside the headlight housing, keeping the bulb from seating properly on the flange.
Next ,I tried it in my son's RZ 350 with the huge round headlight, and the fat ,finned part would not clear the headlight opening. I suppose with some trimming with a dremel, it could be made to fit, but I didnt want to modify the bike, and put the silverstar back in.
Lastly I tried it in the autopal headlight in my Cal II, and it fit perfect, without any mods. I just got back from a night ride to test it, and The light output is excellent, and the pattern on the road in both high beam and low is very good. So far , I am happy with it.
Did you guys know this bulb has a tiny fan about the diameter of a nickel, to blow air through the fins? It seems to work almost silently, only time will tell how long it will last.
Rick.
I'm surprised you had issues - judging from this photo the bulbs are the same length:
(https://cdn1.bigcommerce.com/n-yp39j5/t5q3au/products/269/images/988/comparisonnative2halo__09093.1555447992.1280.1280.jpg?c=2)
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The Safego bulb (as linked) is longer at the back end than a conventional H4 - I have one in my LM2 and it would not fit as the plug was touching the inside/back of the light housing, to clarify my bike has a round but non Guzzi headlight (actually from a Ducati Monster) in an LM1 fairing.
It's only 3mm longer but to get it to work I bent over the tags and used push-on terminals to the bulb (with heatshrink) to make an adaptor to the H4 plug.
The light is definitely brighter but I've not tried it at night yet so can't comment on quality of illumination, one thing though is that if it is wired for either/or high/low beam then when on high (and low goes off) there isn't much near illumination so I have modified the switch so that both high & low are on together when high beam selected, and this gives much more light but I'm not sure how the bulb will cope heat-wise if both on for a long time?
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haven't read the posts but I did install some Chinese H4 LED replacements on both Guzzis. They work. Don't seem appreciable brighter that the 55 wt H4. They are "whiter" draw a little less current (which was more of a goal).
I also put one of the Cycle Gear LEDs on my Suzuki, the 100 wt bulb was starting the craze and brown the lens. It seems pretty bright I guess.
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I'm surprised you had issues - judging from this photo the bulbs are the same length:
(https://cdn1.bigcommerce.com/n-yp39j5/t5q3au/products/269/images/988/comparisonnative2halo__09093.1555447992.1280.1280.jpg?c=2)
Yep, Charlie, I referred back to that dimensional drawing and thought the same thing, that they should be the same length, but mine was just a bit longer . If i didnt already have it all assembled in the Cal II I would shoot a photo comparing the two. The difference is not alot, but just enough to hit on the fuses, using the Cibie reflector. I bet if I put the autopal in the eldo, it would work.
Rick.
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Yep, Charlie, I referred back to that dimensional drawing and thought the same thing, that they should be the same length, but mine was just a bit longer . If i didnt already have it all assembled in the Cal II I would shoot a photo comparing the two. The difference is not alot, but just enough to hit on the fuses, using the Cibie reflector. I bet if I put the autopal in the eldo, it would work.
Rick.
You could do as "Dukedesmo" did and bend the tabs and use individual terminals.
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After reading the LED posts I am wondering if anyone has any experience with upgrading the light system on a MGX?
Thanks in advance BobA
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I think such LED headlights as in the picture above will kill themselves from heat, there is not enough cooling. Where a halogen put out it's heat in the beam, the led does not like heat at all, and over time will fail and/or has little brightness left. Most aftermarket LED replacement have cooling at the back outside the reflector. With or without fan. A led will do 10-15 watts in heat.
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One thing to be careful off is the law in your area. I see a couple of fellow NZers here, LED headlamp bulbs are illegal here unless the whole headlamp unit is replaced with one designed for LEDs.
You cannot just put an LED bulb in a incandescent lamp. The issue is headlamp lens and reflectors are designed to work with the light emitting part in a certain area, LEDs often move that point, meaning the light pattern is wrong.
From the VIRM:
reasons for rejecting:
Modifications
18. A headlamp is retrofitted with a type of light source other than that specified by the vehicle manufacturer or the headlamp manufacturer (eg a headlamp designed for a halogen bulb is fitted with any other type of light source such as an HID or LED bulb, or any other light source such as LED strips or non-OEM angel eyes)
From
https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/lighting/headlamps#note8
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I think such LED headlights as in the picture above will kill themselves from heat, there is not enough cooling. Where a halogen put out it's heat in the beam, the led does not like heat at all, and over time will fail and/or has little brightness left. Most aftermarket LED replacement have cooling at the back outside the reflector. With or without fan. A led will do 10-15 watts in heat.
Heat doesn't seem to be an issue. The finned heat sink and tiny fan seem to cool the LED chips well enough. The glass lens of the headlight is only slightly warm to the touch.
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Maybe what I'm looking for doesn't exist. I can't seem to find any H7 led headlight like the Safe-go H4? I don't want to mess around with ballast and extension wires, I just want to plug it in a go to the party.
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One thing to be careful off is the law in your area. I see a couple of fellow NZers here, LED headlamp bulbs are illegal here unless the whole headlamp unit is replaced with one designed for LEDs.
You cannot just put an LED bulb in a incandescent lamp. The issue is headlamp lens and reflectors are designed to work with the light emitting part in a certain area, LEDs often move that point, meaning the light pattern is wrong.
From the VIRM:
reasons for rejecting:
Modifications
18. A headlamp is retrofitted with a type of light source other than that specified by the vehicle manufacturer or the headlamp manufacturer (eg a headlamp designed for a halogen bulb is fitted with any other type of light source such as an HID or LED bulb, or any other light source such as LED strips or non-OEM angel eyes)
From
https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/lighting/headlamps#note8
Didn't know that Rev. Thanks. Have been looking at cheap LED bulbs on AliExpress just to try them. Won't bother then.
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Keeping it alive...
Does anyone know of a reflector housing for the Native H4R2 or similar that will fit in the early Tonti bucket?
That can be spoken of with experience relative to the fit?
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Keeping it alive...
Does anyone know of a reflector housing for the Native H4R2 or similar that will fit in the early Tonti bucket?
That can be spoken of with experience relative to the fit?
Most any will fit, there's no clearance issues like there is with Loopframe headlights. I had an Autopal in the Convert prior to installing the JW Speaker LED sealed beam and it fit perfectly.
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I just installed the Safego H4 system in the T. This is a nice bright light but . . . When I opened the box I found the unit nicely packaged in a block of protective foam, but the three-prong fitting ring was nonetheless bent -- the ring itself slightly twisted and one of the prongs bent 90 degrees. No problem, I thought, and straightened the bent prong with a needle-nose plier. As I did so the ring fell off the base of the lamp. So I slid it back on, oriented so that the LED chip would face down inside the reflector (years ago I mounted a Cibie reflector on my bike, and it worked beautifully with a standard H4 halogen). Put on a couple of dots of superglue to hold the ring f firmly to the base and installed it. Pleased to find the system fit well inside the Emgo shell.
The result was an upside-down beam pattern: the high beam flooded the bottom of the garage door, the low beam hit the door higher. It showed a clean Z pattern but with the dark quadrant at the lower right of of the field rather than the upper left. So I took it apart, turned the mounting ring 180 degrees so the LED chip faced upwards, and reassembled. Now I get a nice fuzzy oval of light on both high and low beam, but the high beam at least is the high one. And yes, the Cibie reflector/lens assembly is in right-side up. I'm going to leave the Safego system in place for now -- I don't like to ride at night any more and the headlight is just for daytime conspicuity. Still in the market for a reasonably priced LED with a proper low-beam Z-pattern.
(https://i.ibb.co/xhSQ0ts/H4off.jpg) (https://ibb.co/xhSQ0ts)
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Not available right now, but I just bought a pair three weeks ago. May become available again:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XB4K5F7
Same thing as the now discontinued ADV Monster Native H4R2.
The replacement for the H4R2 is this one: http://stores.advmonster.com/budget-h4-led/ I haven't tried it yet.
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Not available right now, but I just bought a pair three weeks ago. May become available again:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XB4K5F7
Same thing as the now discontinued ADV Monster Native H4R2.
The replacement for the H4R2 is this one: http://stores.advmonster.com/budget-h4-led/ I haven't tried it yet.
I put H4R2 in two bikes a couple of weeks ago. On the BMW R100 I had to file down the fin nearest the mount to fit into the cast Bosch lampholder. It fit fine in the LeMans. The pattern on the LeMans looks good but as has been mentioned before has a dark spot right in the center where the cutoff transitions up to the right. I don't mind it really. The lamp is so much brighter and really helps me to be seen by others. I have looked at it from afar and it does not seem to have glare above the cutoff that oncoming traffic would see.
Not perfect but pretty darn good for the price.
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It looks like the budget H4 is out of stock. Anybody tried these folks:
https://www.headlightexperts.com/h4-hi-lo-dual-beam-led-technology-kit
That's a set of two, so one for the V9 and the other for the V7.
Sarah
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It looks like the budget H4 is out of stock. Anybody tried these folks:
https://www.headlightexperts.com/h4-hi-lo-dual-beam-led-technology-kit
That's a set of two, so one for the V9 and the other for the V7.
Sarah
I doubt those will fit inside the headlight bucket on either bike.
I'm still using the same thing as the Native H4R2, but at a lower price:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WNN6P9W
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We've installed a few of these headlight assemblies in other motorcycles and they work well. I don't know about fitment for Moto Guzzi.
https://www.sunpie.co/collections/harley-lights/products/7-led-headlight-for-harley-davidson-motorcycle-chrome-projector-daymaker-hid-led-light-bulb-jeep-wrangler-led-headlamp (https://www.sunpie.co/collections/harley-lights/products/7-led-headlight-for-harley-davidson-motorcycle-chrome-projector-daymaker-hid-led-light-bulb-jeep-wrangler-led-headlamp)
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I've gotten the same thing as Charlie, but cheaper on ebay. Very pleased with the light output - it's BRIGHT!
I did have to modify the retaining clip - this light doesn't have the deep well around the mounting area like normal H4s.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Motorcycle-H4-9003-LED-Hi-Lo-Beam-Headlight-Bulb-6000LM-6500K-360-Light-35W/224007774109?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648
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I've gotten the same thing as Charlie, but cheaper on ebay. Very pleased with the light output - it's BRIGHT!
I did have to modify the retaining clip - this light doesn't have the deep well around the mounting area like normal H4s.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Motorcycle-H4-9003-LED-Hi-Lo-Beam-Headlight-Bulb-6000LM-6500K-360-Light-35W/224007774109?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648
Not quite the same, that one's black! :wink: Looks the same otherwise, but I'd rather have silver.
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I got the Antline LED emitters for my taillight and turn signal lights. Hecho en China, but cheap enough we'll see how long they last. The taillight LED's are easily twice as bright as the incandescent bulbs. Happy there!
However, the turn signal LED's are having an issue. When I replace just one bulb on a side with a LED, the turn signals blink normally. When I replace both bulbs on a side with the LED's, the turn signal lamp on the dash comes on, and the emitters just glow dimly, not blinking. What's up with that? Is it because the LED's don't draw enough amps to trip the flasher? Can I add a resister to the circuit or maybe install a different flasher? Head scratcher for sure... For now I am running the LED's on the front with the incandescent bulbs on the back.
Larry
There's usually a way around having to add huge resistors , it would help to know what bike you are trying to put them on.
The flasher relay for incandescent lamps work on lamp current which LEDs don't have, you need an electronic flasher.
Adding resistors is a crude way to waste the current you were trying to save.
If you have just a single idiot light on the dash for the direction indicators you will need to add a couple of small diodes to prevent crosstalk from left to right.
(https://i.ibb.co/f46C0W1/1948-001.jpg) (https://ibb.co/SRYKvgs)
The CARC and V7s don't have a flasher relay, they may have a "bulb out" alarm that needs to be fooled when running LED flashers a tiny (in size) 1K 1.4 Watt resistor will do that'
.
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Kiwi knows when it comes to electrickery.
If you have a cube or round style flasher relay, they make ones for LED. You might try one, they are under $10.
I have a '07 HD that I converted the rear turn signals to brake, tail, running with the stock HD kit for doing this. Worked great until LED bulbs. With all 4 bulbs, they stopped flashing and the security key light came on. I was ready to install a new flasher until I found out they don't use a flasher relay, it's built into the security system. So...LED for the rear and regular for the front and the bike is happy.
I read about various fixes for the LED issue. Many of them were resistors and there were warnings about heat with them. There was even an aftermarket box like the HD one to convert the rear turn signals that was designed for LED, but at about $110 I decided just the rears would work.
Good luck,
Tom
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Fitted one of these to my LM2 a couple of months back, works with the rear light leds to give the alternator an easier time.
Also stands out more than the halogen, which is partly what I was after.
I had to fit the adaptor ring, and there is enough room in the LM2 fairing for the heat sink.
https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/products/latest-led-headlight-h4-motorcycle?_pos=6&_sid=dc115cd02&_ss=r&variant=8239030141023
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Not quite the same, that one's black! :wink: Looks the same otherwise, but I'd rather have silver.
Maybe black is the upgraded color because it dissipates heat better.
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Question: would the LED heat sink behind the bulb that sits inside a normal headlight back shell possibly cook the various wiring near by?
Well, the heat sink is there for a reason and on fit I ty-rapped any loose wires near it away.
Having said that, I took the bike out for a good run the other day with the headlight on and after the ride I felt the heat sink and it was barely warm.
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Thanks for the replies, scrapped Headlight Experts altogether and we'll look at these "tried and true" options. Charlie and wirespokes, is it a big deal to modify the retaining clip, or just a minor tweak?
Sarah
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Thanks for that.
Is the heat sink inside your headlight back cover?
You took the headlamp unit apart to feel it?
My question was reference an enclosed setup, with the heat sink inside the headlamp unit
Taken this photo as my fairing is off for other work.
You can see the heat sink; to its immediate right is the led control box which I've ty-rapped to the headlight support.
Classic cars do an extension lead so this box can be fitted to a more suitable location if required.
(https://i.ibb.co/944QSDG/IMG-1392.jpg) (https://ibb.co/944QSDG)
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They don't put out much heat - I believe the fins and fans are needed to remove the heat from the chips so they don't overheat. Since they're low wattage, they don't heat up anywhere near as much as a halogen.
As for modifying the retaining clip - no, it wasn't a big deal. Hard to say what will be needed for a different one like yours Greer. I don't know why there has to be so many variations in retainer design, but the difference is about an eighth of an inch less depth where the retainer presses against the 'bulb' flange.
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One thing to be careful off is the law in your area. I see a couple of fellow NZers here, LED headlamp bulbs are illegal here unless the whole headlamp unit is replaced with one designed for LEDs.
You cannot just put an LED bulb in a incandescent lamp. The issue is headlamp lens and reflectors are designed to work with the light emitting part in a certain area, LEDs often move that point, meaning the light pattern is wrong.
From the VIRM:
reasons for rejecting:
Modifications
18. A headlamp is retrofitted with a type of light source other than that specified by the vehicle manufacturer or the headlamp manufacturer (eg a headlamp designed for a halogen bulb is fitted with any other type of light source such as an HID or LED bulb, or any other light source such as LED strips or non-OEM angel eyes)
From
https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/lighting/headlamps#note8
They're not up to date with the latest led developments then.
Admittedly there are a lot of useless, as far a light scatter goes, mainly chinese, leds out there.
However, at least in the UK, there are led headlight units which focus light in exactly the same way as a halogen bulb.
Here:
https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/products/latest-led-headlight-h4-motorcycle?_pos=6&_sid=dc115cd02&_ss=r&variant=8239030141023
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Thank you, wirespokes. I'm not sure anyone else has tried to fit an LED bulb in a V9 headlight shell, so we may be in for some trial and error.
Sarah
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Thank you, wirespokes. I'm not sure anyone else has tried to fit an LED bulb in a V9 headlight shell, so we may be in for some trial and error.
Sarah
From the parts illustration, the bulb looks like a normal H4, so it shouldn't be difficult. In the 2013 V7 Stone I had, the LED bulb I used:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WNN6P9W fit in perfectly once I removed a small circular trim piece (held in by three screws).
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Thank you, Charlie!
Sarah
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Sarah -- I bought those, albeit at a higher price from DDM who is local. However DDM was honest enough to not claim "no electromagnetic interference." After installation I was getting P1607 and other codes. I had to purchase and install the CANbus filter external to the headlight housing.
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Thanks for the warning, Bert. I believe John in PA was helping a young friend with LED lights on a Bobber some time back, I will send him a pm and ask how that turned out. When it comes to electrics, it needs to be the simplest plug & play or it sails right over our heads. Thanks again.
Sarah
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Moved to V7 First Year Mods
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One thing to check before you get to ordering though: base shape. All of the LED bulbs have a P43T base (round-ish with three prongs) and some Italian headlights (V50, V65, Morini, etc.) use a P45T base bulb which is larger, still round, but without tabs. I'm not sure which the Lario had. All is not lost though - a simple adapter allows one to use the P43T in a P45T headlight.
I found this gem in the wayback machine after scratching my head staring at the new LED bulb that won't fit the V50. I assume the plastic adapters can handle the heat of LEDs?
jim
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I found this gem in the wayback machine after scratching my head staring at the new LED bulb that won't fit the V50. I assume the plastic adapters can handle the heat of LEDs?
jim
Hasn't been an issue on anything I've used them on.
https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/collections/headlight-led-bulbs/products/p45t-r2-h5-to-p43t-h4-bulb-adapter