Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Inshan on June 01, 2019, 10:33:02 PM
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Gentlemen (and Ladies!),
I'm rejuvenating a 75 850T that I picked up recently. The plan is to get it mechanically sound, and address a few cosmetic issues. It's not going to be a nut and bolt show deal. This is my first older Guzzi so I will be asking lots of questions, and yes I always search before I ask. The bike is a runner with lots of deferred maintenance. Mostly original with some unfortunate ape-hanger bars, and wrapped headpipes.
Charging system was not working. Diagnosed open rotor. After weighing options I decided to purchase the Euro MotoElectrics Enduralast III upgrade: https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/edl3-altkit105.htm
Tried installing today and ran into an issue with the stator. New one seems to big for original stator frame. May need to buy a different frame? Haven't talked to them yet.
Going through the carbs tomorrow, have carb kits, viton tip float valves, and new fuel banjo strainers.
I want to order some Tygon from McMaster-Carr for the fuel lines. Fuel system is original Dellorto VHB30s. What size line do I need to order?
The breather hoses from the valve covers to the crankcase breather were sweating oil, so I removed them. I cut the swage crimp off with a hacksaw, so I have the bare banjos now. Is it OK to just run regular hose and clamps on that? What have you guys done?
The bike has highway pegs with long studs that go through the crashbars. I will be deleting the pegs and crashbars. Any idea what the original size of the frame bolt is?
I'm also on the lookout for a set of original bars in nice shape. MGcycle has some for $65 or so, but says they are not drilled. I guess I can drill if necessary.
(https://i.ibb.co/GcGRkYs/850t1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/GcGRkYs)
(https://i.ibb.co/JjFYvCj/image.png) (https://ibb.co/JjFYvCj)
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I use the 1/4" Tygon hose: https://www.mcmaster.com/5552K25
For breather hose, I use SAE 30R7 hose: https://www.mcmaster.com/54605K33
The bolt for use without crashbars is M12-1.25 x 30 IIRC.
Are you running the original handlebar switches? If not, then undrilled 'bars will be fine, the only reason for drilled 'bars is for the wiring of the original switches to snake through. I have a pair of original T3 'bars, but they aren't what I'd call in "nice shape".
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That's a lot nicer than mine was. Oil filter or early version sans Filter?
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Charlie,
thank you for the help, much appreciated.
Will place MMC order now.
Yes, I plan on using the original switches at this time. They all seem to work fine still.
Turin - I believe it's a NO filter sump. Here's a pic of the pan... haven't dropped it yet.
(https://i.ibb.co/vDCgD5R/pan.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vDCgD5R)
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No filter, no problem. You'll just have to change the oil a little more often.
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So, have you addressed the elephant in the room? (chrome bores)
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good buy - it's a fun bike (now, to get mine back in shape, right?)
change oil more frequent, yes -
switches: originals = not if but when will they fail. Easy to find replacements.
have you looked in the cylinders? am told the chrome is another not if but when situation.
MG Cycle always been good to me :)
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Put relays on every high load on the switchgear, and they'll last as long as you will.
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Good info guys! I haven't looked in the cylinders yet. I was hoping that elephant would stay invisible for a bit longer until my $$ recovers.
If it doesn't have Gilardonis already, it will get them... it's just a matter of when, not if :grin:
Unless Chuck has a magic solution to that problem like he did for the broken shifter spring on my Scura :thumb:
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The bike has 16" ape hangers on it. Thinking of switching to renthal high road bars. Anyone use those?
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Unless Chuck has a magic solution to that problem like he did for the broken shifter spring on my Scura :thumb:
Big castings and forgings are a *somewhat* beyond my little shop's capacity.. :grin:
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Big castings and forgings are a *somewhat* beyond my little shop's capacity.. :grin:
I put BikeMaster Superbike bars on mine. Totally will change your riding position.
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Here's a second vote for the superbike bars. Put them on the T3 and love em.
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Also install one for the ignition (main power) switch. Otherwise the contacts on that old switch can drop a volt or even close to 2 volts across it.
https://archive.guzzitech.com/Dockray_key.html
Put relays on every high load on the switchgear, and they'll last as long as you will.
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Nice pussy cat
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I use Guzzi SP bars on both my T3 and LM3. As far as I'm concerned they are perfect. A bit of lean and the angle for the wrists is a little nicer than superbike bend. They are all day comfortable.
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I use Guzzi SP bars on both my T3 and LM3. As far as I'm concerned they are perfect. A bit of lean and the angle for the wrists is a little nicer than superbike bend. They are all day comfortable.
When I got my 850T, it had K&N super bike bars. I rode it like that for quite a while. but as age and arthritis intruded, I found a pair of Triumph bars from an old 650, bent them back a ways, and they're just about perfect now, take the weight off my wrists and forearms, so suits my current Alzheimers riding position!
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Confirmed today, chrome cylinders still. Zero magnetic attraction. Had a little wishful thinking maybe they were replaced. Will plan to replace maybe as Christmas present.
Have carbs apart now, finishing up charging system.
Seat pan is pretty rusted. Going to try to salvage since they seem to be scarce.
(https://i.ibb.co/HTvXpTN/15606237630348605366959448664598.jpg) (https://ibb.co/HTvXpTN)
(https://i.ibb.co/3BbHZGp/15606238530798646452308457262191.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3BbHZGp)
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Keep the miles as low as possible until the cylinder upgrade or those chrome bores may add a lot $$$ to the cost of your Christmas present!
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Yeah, nice kitty.
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dropping those 16" ape hangers will maybe need new brake line and cable issues?
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Is the seat pan the same as the 1000SP?
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you may want to consider upgrading the brakes when you change out the brake line.
Here is my old set up: Guzzi-power adapter, stainless goodyear brake line, Brembo 4 piston caliper, EBC rotor with the factory 15mm master cylinder. Works pretty well, although the feedback from the lever is a little on the wooden side. Beats the hell out of the stock set up. The slotted EBC rotor not necessary, the factory cast rotors are great.
(https://i.ibb.co/kyNdZ1Q/20161202-172940.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kyNdZ1Q)
(https://i.ibb.co/N7CJQvy/20190502-200829-resized.jpg) (https://ibb.co/N7CJQvy)
My T is a bit hot rodded so I recently went to a dual disk set up with dual 4 piston calipers.
(https://i.ibb.co/w7tnVjr/thumbnail-20190522-193309.jpg) (https://ibb.co/w7tnVjr)
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Is the seat pan the same as the 1000SP?
No. Gen 1 SP 1000 seat, SPNT seat and 850T/T3 , G5 /Convert all bolt up interchangeably but are slightly different . Mark at Moto Guzzi Classics has the current version available on Ebay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Moto-Guzzi-T3-G5-Convert-Seat/323813376391?hash=item4b64c80187%3Ag%3AoyIAAOSw57tc5GU5&LH_ItemConditi
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Once the sale on my 850-T is finalized (wire transfer issue) I'll have some spares to get rid of including original handlebars, rear fender and a funky seat.
The stock bars aren't bad at all. You may want to consider rear sets before going with lower bars.
If your crash bars aren't junk you should really consider keeping them. If they are junk I'd highly recommend finding another set.
(https://i.imgur.com/Z3FGX90.jpg)
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you may want to consider upgrading the brakes when you change out the brake line.
Here is my old set up: Guzzi-power adapter, stainless goodyear brake line, Brembo 4 piston caliper, EBC rotor with the factory 15mm master cylinder. Works pretty well, although the feedback from the lever is a little on the wooden side. Beats the hell out of the stock set up. The slotted EBC rotor not necessary, the factory cast rotors are great.
(https://i.ibb.co/kyNdZ1Q/20161202-172940.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kyNdZ1Q)
(https://i.ibb.co/N7CJQvy/20190502-200829-resized.jpg) (https://ibb.co/N7CJQvy)
My T is a bit hot rodded so I recently went to a dual disk set up with dual 4 piston calipers.
(https://i.ibb.co/w7tnVjr/thumbnail-20190522-193309.jpg) (https://ibb.co/w7tnVjr)
Goodridge brake line?
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autocorrected. goodridge, yes.
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Thanks for the feedback. No plans to hotrod this thing, have a Scura to scratch that itch. Plan for the brake upgrade is the 12mm MC. Have rebuild kit for caliper and new ceramic pads. I do plan to get a new front brake line and re-install a tee with the brake light switch. Right now I only have brake lights on rear brake.
Can't think about spending $$ on a seat until I get the chrome bores replaced. I like the way the bike runs now, it's a cool putz-around-town bike with decent power. Plan on getting Avon Roadriders as well. Current tires are dryrotted.
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My T has the set backs for the handle bars - works well for me. Steel brake lines made a huge difference - enough that I quite thinking about putting the 2nd disc on...and...ride within ones means, of course. I use an Allyn Air Seat on top of the stock saddle - pretty comfy and not expensive. As for tires, Bridgestone Spitfires have done well for me, too. Enjoy the post- motivation it gives me.
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I have a pan from a '83 SP that I'd let go cheap. And, how did my cat get in your garage?
Larry
(https://i.ibb.co/B3XsYWg/IMG-1053.jpg) (https://ibb.co/B3XsYWg)
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Larry,
I'm interested in a cheap pan that fits my bike. Also, when did you take that picture of my cat?
(https://i.ibb.co/fSdSGTz/00000-PORTRAIT-00000-BURST20190616111829508.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fSdSGTz)
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He comes to my house every morning to help me with the daily crossword puzzle. A SP has the same frame as your T and should fit. Some of the authorities here could chime in. The foam and cover on the seat I have are toast but the pan is fine. $25 plus shipping would work. Check post #23 by guzzista.
Larry
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Sounds good, sending PM...
(https://i.ibb.co/Sd7Pcws/IMG-20180501-182426.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Sd7Pcws)