Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: n3303j on June 07, 2019, 09:43:17 PM
-
From my FWIW department:
I've been riding the critter for about 20K miles with the stock seat. I could feel the saddle's computer clearance ridge chafing my tail bone. I made up a handlebar that pitched me a bit forward and greatly lessened the chafing.
BUT: I kept reading about relocating the big computer to the battery tray or replacing it with a small one to make the seat internal ridge unnecessary. It all sounded interesting but either expensive or complicated or both. So I did nothing.
SO: The other day I got curious about how far the big computer actually protruded into the stock saddle. So I remembered an old clearance measuring trick. I put modelling clay into the groove in the seat and reinstalled it on the bike. I spent a few minutes bouncing on the saddle to really set it in place and then removed the seat to see how deep a dent the computer made in the clay.
(https://i.ibb.co/ScwM2bp/20190607-133341.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ScwM2bp)
There is the tiniest dent in the clay by the latch pin where the rubber computer hold down strap touched the clay.
THE LARGE COMPUTER ON MY EV DOES NOT GO INTO THE CLEARANCE NOTCH ON THE STOCK SEAT!
So I don't need that irritating ridge in the seat pan at all. I'd be really curious if all these '98 V11EVs have the ridge in the seat pan just "because that was the mold available and no one wanted to change it". Sort of like the vestigial generator mounts and distributor pads on the block.
(https://i.ibb.co/w4ZvVM6/20190607-135528.jpg) (https://ibb.co/w4ZvVM6)
Short work with the dremel tool and enough of the ridge is gone that there is no more irritation. The hump is cut back internally at about a 45° angle to provide a smooth transition to the ridged area.
Took all of 30 minutes. Feels 200% better.
-
I removed the ridge completely. Put gaffa tape to seal the opening. A year later I put a gel pillow inside the seat cover.
Works xelent. :thumb:
-
I’ll cut mine this afternoon!! I didn’t get around to measuring it
-
My guess is that its like that because its much easier to build things to sloppy tolerances when something is mass produced.. Some bikes might have more, or less room, so they make it bigger for worst case... plus a little.. The latter seats are not much better.... at least on my stone.
-
Thats brilliant! In 20 years this is first time I have seen this solution and it couldn't be simpler.
Pete
-
My Cal is carbureted so I didn't need any notch in the seat pan. I cut it out and welded a piece of ABS into the space. Put in a piece of medium density upholstery foam to fill the void. I then recontoured the top of the foam to move my butt down and back a couple of inches. A local upholsterer recovered the seat, and the back seat and backrest to match.
Larry
-
Well done, thats a problem that has been a pain in the butt for a long time. :thumb:
-
I cut mine today too. God bless the dremel tool! I filled the void with 3 segments of foam I had making the middle one a little smaller. I’m trying to make a tailbone pocket Feels good in the garage
(https://i.ibb.co/99vfzKw/F6-F50-DA6-05-E4-42-F0-B03-B-8-FC47813-EB64.jpg) (https://ibb.co/99vfzKw)
(https://i.ibb.co/V3JQXsY/5-F9-DFD34-695-E-4-D34-94-C7-258802517-AC4.jpg) (https://ibb.co/V3JQXsY)
-
Here's my seat mod.
Larry
(https://i.ibb.co/QpnJ84Y/Cal-seat-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/QpnJ84Y)
(https://i.ibb.co/WtV7j6V/Cal-seat-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WtV7j6V)
-
Took mine out for 30 mile run after hump removal = very happy!