Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Bob_Fla on July 22, 2019, 07:54:34 AM
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I've removed the old block tensioner on my 850 and replaced with a blade.
Two questions:
- The blade is VERY tight, is that normal?
- Do the old block tensioner bolts and spacers need to be replaced?
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Yes they are snug, no reason to replace the bolts unless they have a defect.
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About replacing the bolts - I'm referring to the ones that were holding the old tensioner. Do the bolts that held on the old tensioner have to be replaced even though they do not hold anything any more?
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OP, I don't know about bolt replacement (though I am guessing - it is not required) - but I have to ask you: i) what year / model of Guzzi do you have; and ii) did you find any Locktite or other thread-locker on any of the sprockets (assuming you removed the sprockets / timing chain to make the change-of-tensioner) - and generally, how hard was it to remove the timing chain / sprockets?
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Nope, sorry I wasn't clear, the bolts are fine for reuse unless they have an obvious defect.
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First, my bike is a 1984 850 T5.
And I think my question needs more clarification.
The old block tensioner was held by a horizontal plate secured with two bolts. The two bolts that held the old tensioner had spacers to hold the plate at the correct depth. The new blade tensioner is held on by two different bolts.
Do I need to replace the old bolts and sleeves even though they are not holding anything?
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First, my bike is a 1984 850 T5.
And I think my question needs more clarification.
The old block tensioner was held by a horizontal plate secured with two bolts. The two bolts that held the old tensioner had spacers to hold the plate at the correct depth. The new blade tensioner is held on by two different bolts.
Do I need to replace the old bolts and sleeves even though they are not holding anything?
No, you do not need to reinstall those old bolts and spacers.
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If'n the bolts no longer are for anything , leave them out. And yes the blade seems extremely tight. Thought the same thing 30,000 miles ago when I installed mine and it is still wirring away and the oil pump bearings still are holding up. :thumb:
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Some images...
(https://i.ibb.co/Y3066xz/IMG0295-L.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Y3066xz)
(https://i.ibb.co/zRH17Jj/IMG0297-L.jpg) (https://ibb.co/zRH17Jj)
(https://i.ibb.co/n787Hcr/IMG0300-L.jpg) (https://ibb.co/n787Hcr)
(https://i.ibb.co/VBdqpWz/Guzzi-850-Duplex-Timing-Chain-BB.jpg) (https://ibb.co/VBdqpWz)
(https://i.ibb.co/jkP7q1G/Automatic-Timing-Chain-Tensioner.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jkP7q1G)
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OP, can you please indicate ease (or not) removing timing chain, sprockets (or maybe you did not do so)?
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OP, can you please indicate ease (or not) removing timing chain, sprockets (or maybe you did not do so)?
When I replaced the timing chain and tensioner on mine I removed only the lower sprocket, easy enough to do*. To split the old chain involves grinding a link out.
I fitted the new timing chain with a split link fitted, which you can do with the 2 upper sprockets in place.
The replacement chain came from Mercedes Benz with the split link, I just had to remove a few links. If it's good enough for MB....
The MB chain was recommended via this forum, sorry can't remember who, maybe this will ring a bell and you'll get supplied with the part number.
*Remove alternator bolt, insert non compressible length of metal rod into the bolt hole (I use a cut down allen key, again sorry, I can't remember the exact length),
Refit bolt and tighten against the metal rod insert, Tap bolt head and the alternator should pop off the taper. Make sure you catch it. The lower sprocket behind the front engine chest is located
via a woodruff key, don't loose it).
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Thank you SteveX et al. Very helpful ☺.
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Great information and pictures. Thanks everyone.