Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: bdlwet1 on July 24, 2019, 08:39:05 AM
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My 2001 California EV has been a pretty good bike, many trouble free miles. Have had pinhole leaks in tanks, fixed. now having intermittent dead ignition periods while riding, have changed fuses....looking at relays next. But really think it is coils and am aghast at cost of stupid coils .....gotta figure how to by from european parts house, I expect. starts well , accelerates well, no stumbles in firing pattern...but when it warms up{..and on hot days that is quicker} . while riding, it dies and I have signal lights and nothing. I wait for it to cool and it starts great and runs...but unless I let it cool 1 hour or better, it dies within 3-4 miles. have new Battery...maybe 6 mos old and have checkled charge. really associated with heat and best thought is coils or wiring. Have looked carefully at wiring. Any commentary or paths would help.
Tks . Ride and HARD and SAFE
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If your lights and all electrical are not working, it's not the coils.
Relay, biggest bugaboo on Guzzi's
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I used to use a cooling spray to test electrical components.. I really forgot the name right now, but it was like caned air... but real cold.. Worked great to test control units when you had a heat related failure.
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To make sure I'm reading this right. When it dies, all you have is turn signals? No normal dash warning lights? Headlight?
Tom
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When first turning on the key do you hear a click / clunk of the fuel shut off switch turning on? The fuel pump has enough boost to run the bike with the valve until it gets hot and vapor locks. 1/2 hour or so to cool and away you go again. If the screen in the valve or the fuel filter is plugged same thing. Next flush out the ignition switch.
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Cam phase sensor?
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It's not the hose inside the tank slowly dissolving, is it? When you fixed the tank's leak, you replaced that tube from the pump's filter to the plate with submersible fuel hose & decent clamps?
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He say's it's an 01 EV. External fuel pump. I know, I have one. Check your electric petcock. A wire on mine broke once and had the exact same symptom you describe.
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It might be a lot of things but it's not the coils, they wouldn't both fail at the same instant.
I show on this drawing a lamp connected to the petcock fuse qs a troubleshooting aid, The petcock fuse is downstream of the ignition switch, kill switch and side stand circuit anything faulty there will cause the bike to run very rough as it causes the ECU to reboot, The lamp will draw your attention, it shouldn't so much as flicker.
If it stays on steady when the bike quits move the lamp further downstream like the ECU or power relay 87 terminal eventually you will figure out at what point the power is dropping out.
Even if your bike no longer has the electric petcock chances are the fuse is still in place.
(https://image.ibb.co/cAhmcJ/Tell-tail-Light.jpg)
Of course if the relays haven't been replaced for several years you may prefer to just replace them all they are < $5 each.
Here is the relay I have been recommending for many years.
https://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/omron-electronics-inc-emc-div/G8HN-1C2T-R-DC12/Z2247-ND/765512
Your bike may have some 4 pin ones but replace them all with 5 pin.
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Reading through the thread again you seem to be losing power early on like the ignition switch.
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1998_EV.gif
Look at the ignition switch (42) see how it splits into 2 circuits B & H
H feeds the blinkers which you say still work
B works its way over to the side stand relay
Have you cleaned the switch at all disconnect the battery negative then take a Phillips screwdriver from underneath to remove the switch block (leave the lock in place)
Prize it open and remove all the old grease, replace with fresh Vaseline.
You could also be losing power in one of the multi-pin connectors like (10) or (11)
If the bike is high milage wires could be getting brittle where they constantly bend around the headstock with steering.
Take the side cover off and learn where you normally have power, there's a small spot at each end of a fuse where you can poke a test lamp.
The nice thing about the EV is almost everything is terminates or is accessible from under this cover, that's why I scratched up my sketch.
Does the bike crank over when you are having a problem, if not you are probably losing power on the brown wire that feeds the stand relay and start relay.
Do you lose the idiot lights?
Note there is a difference in the stand circuit between my drawing and Carls some owners just unplug the stand switch where others have to short it out, what is the status of your switch?
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Wow, Thanks for all info, I have been out of town and no access to computer......I don't do on-line with phone much. Have dash lights when it dies.......haven't checked headlight. Turn signals , I think , work. Will check and reply. will bring my laptop next trip. so have lots of tips and will go thru them - one at a time. When my tank was leakjing, first tried welding myself, I am not too bad a welder, but kept leaking. Took it to my friend, a former shipyard welder and he fixed leaks.. Then I lined the tank with rubber /like sealant [KBS gold tank sealant}, then took wire and re oened vents in tank. Of note: I had removed enviro{California State , where bike originated],-mental canisters on both sides of rear fender. ran better at altitude then. Have driven my Guzzi on Run to the Wall nary an issue and have 'bout 20,000 miles on sicce I bought it in 2013. only had 25,000 when purchased. I will check petcocks and switches. Last time I tried all the relays and hooked up to 12 v they all engaged. I will do this test again after switch and petcock. My manual is on a CD and I guess I will go over to FEDEX and print the whole damn thing......... My wife doesn't ride on back of Guzzi, says it is set up uncomfortably for her....she rides a 650 boulevard ...maybe 1000 miles a yr. But after I fix this issue I think I might sell the bike and find something my wife will sit on back of again. haha...or (not sell and increase my stable)
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KIWI Roy.....bike cranks, not an issue....just no start. I intend to short stand switch due to this inquiry , have done it before. Might just permanently do it. I will start with cleaning switch and checking petcock wires. burt yes I will get some relays as I can't reproduce heat on relays that are in when checking them.......although .....I could take temps with digital and then use heat gun when checking......hmmmm ..yeah maybe. see if I have enuf hands
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Yes the bike will crank even if the ECU is not powered up
I think you could be loosing the signal through the Stand relay, that's a very common fault the EVs I am familiar with use the 97A normally closed contact, if you are going to disable the switch you can just plug a short jumper in the relay socket. you can usually tell which they use just by looking into the socket, unused pins are often left empty.
I urge you to put a temporary lamp into the petcock fuse that will indicate if you have an intermittent contact by flickering. I predict if your bike had a lamp there it would be Off when it fails.
I often put permanent lamps on the relay contacts just because I can, my new V7iii has one on each relay out of sight under the seat.
An alternate place to put them is just between the relay coil pins or 87 to chassis.
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Sounds like your tank sealer goop is migrating to your fuel filter.