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General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: bad Chad on July 28, 2019, 11:05:09 AM
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I apparently over tightened the positive bolt in my attempt to get rid of startus interuptis. It's a Yusa battery in good shape and I am thinking I might just be able to get a slightly larger bolt. If that's doable, what size should I get, I'm not good with knowing threads and pitches, but the bolt that was in there is the same size as every other power sport battery I have ever seen. Could I just slowly turn a new larger bolt in, or should I tap new threads, and if so what size tap?
Thanks, I'm an idiot!
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Must batteries, including Yuasa, have a nut and bolt type configuration. Are you just turning the bolt, and the nut underneath is turning?
(disconnect the ground while you are messing with the positive)
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1/4-20 will be your next bet. slightly larger than the 6x1mm that is stripped. if the threads are in the post its a common size for a small battery. sometimes they put in threaded steel plate which is more or less difficult depending. reading your post I think you have a threaded hole in the batt. So then I would use a 1/4-20 bottoming tap preceded with a #7 drill bit. be careful on the depth. if it all goes to hell, mayge there is room for a heli coil or the next size up whicn would be an 8mmx1.25 or a 5/16 which has several thread patterns but a 5/16-18 is a common one, but then you would need bigger holes in the cable ends.
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Of course you will have to deal with the battery first, but take my advice and spend $40 to completely eliminate your Startus Interruptus Disfunction forever:
http://mphcycles.com/starter-relay-fix-kit/ (http://mphcycles.com/starter-relay-fix-kit/)
I bought one. Installed the plug-and-play kit in 45 minutes. It totally eliminated SID on my Norge. :thumb:
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What Wayne said. Other than an Odyssey.
John Henry
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I think he needs an excuse to ride the other bike to WI rally!!!!!
Your bolt goes into the batt post , it's 6mm X 1 like John said. In fact both kind of connections are same thread UNLESS you changed them.
If thats the case then a time-sert would be better than helicoil.
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I agree with the timesert being a better fix, about the best thing with helicoils is you can usually get em at the hardware store otherwise I despise them
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Unless your batteries are different to everywhere else which I'd find hard to believe the bolt screws into a small threaded 'Block' that sits within the battery post. If you have accessories added to the battery directly it may well be that the bolt is simply being held up high enough that its threads don't engage with the 'Block'. It might be worth trying to lift the block slightly by inserting a small, flat bladed, screwdriver underneath it and levering it up towards the top of the post. This may well enable the threads of the bolt to bite into the 'Block' so the bolt can be tightened.
Pete
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You know how I said I am an idiot? I was wrong, I am an utter and complete moron! Wayne hit on the head, and Pete drove it home! What Pete said is exactly what was happening. I ordered the no start Fix-it kit from MPH Cycle, I was putting it in when I thought, shit I striped the threads.
Thank you all for saving me from myself, again. The MPH Starter Interuptis kit works great, best $38.50 I have ever spent. If you haven't done the fix you will need to, the kit is plug and play, perfect for me!
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Striped battery post ...
Stripes are not a problem - good thing you didn't have a second " p " or it would have stripped.
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Stripes are not a problem - good thing you didn't have a second " p " or it would have stripped.
... This message brought to you by tequila ...
Ha good catch 😄
Glenn
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The MPH kit is a good solution for owners who have a fear of sidecutters, all it needs is a beefier supply to the start relay.
The Breva 1100 has a magic number-plate light that indicates the solenoid Voltage.
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Stripes are not a problem - good thing you didn't have a second " p " or it would have stripped.
... This message brought to you by tequila ...
I wanted to, but I’m trying my best..
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I wanted to, but I’m trying my best..
Naa, it's Bad Chad, man.. when he's down, you need to pile on. :evil: :grin:
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Aren't battery post made of lead? If so, you could probably just use a soldering iron to put some lead on the treaded area, then let the old screw tap it, or tap properly.
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Aren't battery post made of lead? If so, you could probably just use a soldering iron to put some lead on the treaded area, then let the old screw tap it, or tap properly.
Most MOTORCYCLE batteries are a lead tab or box, with a STEEL nut on one side and a bolt going through the lead. Even my lawn mower battery is somewhat like that. The steel nut on it corroded, and I simply replaced the nut (and corroded bolt) to fix it.
Some batteries, like the Odyssey, have a threaded copper (or brass?) post. I'm not sure how they internally connect the lead and copper. If you stripped that out, you are likely better off getting a new battery.