Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Luap McKeever on August 19, 2019, 06:11:44 PM
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This bike is absolutely driving me nuts. Anytime the dang temperature goes above 85 degrees it runs like absolute garbage. Almost to the point I'm over it altogether and thinking about sticking strictly to the 1100 EV series.
I'm convinced the damn thing needs new spark plugs wires but cannot for the life of me find any, anywhere. Pretty crummy to happen to a $22,000 bike after only 18,000 miles. Might as well slap a Harley logo on it. Yes of course, I'm just venting.
Has anyone sourced these before and have a part number?
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Have you tried AF1?
https://www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/prodList.asp?idCategory=3023&description=MGX+21+Maintenance+and+Tools
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Have you tried AF1?
https://www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/prodList.asp?idCategory=3023&description=MGX+21+Maintenance+and+Tools
Thanks. Yes, I checked that. They only have 1 and I need 4 new caps only.
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I found the problem. 3 of the 4 plug ends (to the heads) are jumping fire. Probably a result of the weird twisting motion you have to do to remove the plug wires.
I cannot find the plug ends (PN B064015 and B064016) anywhere.
Anyone know of a way that I can seal the sparks in the caps to keep them from jumping? Maybe truck bed sealant?
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https://www.ebay.com/p/Moto-Guzzi-California-1400-Spark-Plug-Wire-Cap-13-25-Inch-2D000181/4015465831?iid=312692247020&chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=312692247020&targetid=541454146932&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9002581&poi=&campaignid=1881504899&mkgroupid=66933536821&rlsatarget=aud-622524041198:pla-541454146932&abcId=1139336&merchantid=8297344&gclid=CjwKCAjwkenqBRBgEiwA-bZVtn9sItJO-SKIHvMYEdjZh0ncfwLpNfDFoBB44lGrpans5UqwF7F-lhoCP9YQAvD_BwE
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https://www.ebay.com/p/Moto-Guzzi-California-1400-Spark-Plug-Wire-Cap-13-25-Inch-2D000181/4015465831?iid=312692247020&chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=312692247020&targetid=541454146932&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9002581&poi=&campaignid=1881504899&mkgroupid=66933536821&rlsatarget=aud-622524041198:pla-541454146932&abcId=1139336&merchantid=8297344&gclid=CjwKCAjwkenqBRBgEiwA-bZVtn9sItJO-SKIHvMYEdjZh0ncfwLpNfDFoBB44lGrpans5UqwF7F-lhoCP9YQAvD_BwE
Thanks. I found some caps on Dennis Kirk that I think'll work.
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One layer of rubber tape, covered with electrical tape. Might get you by till you get the new ones.
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Luap, my 'Cheap and Nasty' fix is to slather the cracked area with RTV silicone, (This is one of the very few uses for this muck!) and then wrap the offending areas with insulating tape. It's a stop-gap but should get you mobile.
In future don't twist them off from the top, use a screwdriver through the cooling tunnel just above the exhaust manifold and pry them up from the bottom.
Another trick to do with the new ones is loop a cable tie around them under the sealing rings on the cap and poke it out of the plug tube in the cover. The 'Rocker cover cover' will hide the tail but when you need to remove them you can assist with the screwdriver prying by yanking on the cable tie without stressing the cap.
Pete
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Had the same problem with my 1400 Cali. Having tried NGK caps I eventually replaced with an OEM set. The long term solution is to coat the outside of the cap with Dielectric/silicon grease. The grease not only provides some insulation which prevents arching, the big benefit is, it lubricates the rubber cap & plug tunnel making removal so much easier.
Jon
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Thanks fellas for the suggestions. I appreciate it.
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Might I suggest measuring the resistance from each cap to chassis I think it should measure < 10K Ohms from cap through the cable through the coil to chassis.
If nothing else it would be nice to establish what the resistance should measure.
IMHO when you have resistor caps you shouldn't also have resistor leads and certainly not resistor plugs to boot.
(I have not measured a resistor plug but it seems you should be able to measure from terminal to the centre electrode)
Could it be with too much in-line resistance the spark takes the easy way out and jumps to chassis?
Is there visual damage to the caps?
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Is there visual damage to the caps?
Yes, I ran the bike in the dark with the caps pulled from the plugs and can visually see spark jumping from around the tops of the caps. All except one did it.
I just now cleaned them up really good and covered them in rubber sealant. Hopefully that'll get me by ok until I get some new caps.
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I'm glad you found out what the issue was.
Before I bought my MGX I was wondering if the California would have the same problem as the other 8 valve motors. I guess this answers that question.
It doesn't seem to be widespread yet but I wonder if we should all do the upgrade preemptively, or have a backup set ready.
I've only removed the caps and plugs once at the 900 mile service. I didn't twist the plug ends or Caps or whatever you want to call them I just wiggled them back and forth while pulling straight up. Moto International did the plug upgrade on my Norge when we were trying to sort out its issues, but I was never happy with the idea of cutting the lead and screwing on a cap. Twice after they did the upgrade the cap came unscrewed or loose from The wire and would easily pull out. Finally after cutting the wire two or three times I slathered some J-B weld on the wire as I slid it into and screwed the plug cap and that seemed to keep it secure for the next 8k miles
I'm thinking that to resolve the issue I may have some custom plug wires made up and swap them out at the 6000 mile service. Or knowing that this is an issue only remove the plug leads by prying them up from the bottom through the passageway. That was easy to do on the Norge, but doesn't seem as accessible on the 1400 motor.
Random musings on this, but back in the 70s and 80s when I was building hot rod big block V8, the headers would always torch the spark plug caps and literally melt them onto the spark plug guaranteeing a new set of wires with every plug change. one day I had the idea to instead of using dielectric grease use a little swipe of synthetic caliper grease. It's high heat and doesn't evaporate in congeal like the dielectric grease. That worked very well if I remember correctly. Perhaps maybe that would be a solution for grease on the rubber spark plug caps to ease them going in and out.
Anyhow, really glad you've discovered what your problem was hopefully you can get squared away soon and get back to enjoying that beast.
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Do the 1400s use the same nasty carbon core cable thats fitted to my V7?
Both caps on it measure 4.8 K Ohms but one lead measures 30 MegOhms the other reads infinity.
I used the nut off a plug screwed to an old spoke to make contact with the cap so I didn't have to touch the probe with my sweaty paws.
I maintain you should be able to measure from the cap to chassis and read the same on every lead, around 8 - 10 k Ohms
Obviously if you can't measure some sort of reading there's an arc happening in the lead that can't be good.
This doesn't apply to a double ended coil or single coil with distributor of course.
Please someone with a 1400 measure each lead to chassis
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I replaced the plug caps on mr 1400 because of this problem with NGK caps. No problems since.
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I replaced the plug caps on mr 1400 because of this problem with NGK caps. No problems since.
Me too. Only one of them was faulty, but it often misbehaved. The cap had departed the wire, and despite all my attempts to reattach it, glue it in position, and tape it up failed.
All good now.
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I replaced the plug caps on mr 1400 because of this problem with NGK caps. No problems since.
Did you replace the caps with OEM ones or something else?
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Did you replace the caps with OEM ones or something else?
I replaced them with NGK SB05E. Ordered off Amazon.
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I replaced them with NGK SB05E. Ordered off Amazon.
Thanks. I just ordered some. Hope it fixes my problems...