Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Dan Beaman on September 19, 2019, 06:35:38 PM
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I bought a new light switch from MGcycle a few months back (Part Number: 120030 Manufactured by: K&S), and I'm having a huge issue getting it wired into my G5 system. The original schematic (attached) shows a headlight relay with a wire from the passing light switch being the activating wire. There is a wire from the low beam switch and then 3 wires coming in that are the main hot wire with the horn and brake light switches wired together. The body of the original relay acted as the ground. It is inop. I bought a new 4 pin relay so the 4th pin is the ground.
Here's my travail......
There is no wire from the new switch to the high beam except the passing high wire, so what do I wire to where? Does the wire from the high beam flasher also connect directly to the high beam lights?
In the original, what does the relay even do?? and how?? It has no wire to the high beam side at all according to the schematic or real life. Is it just for the low beam only?
OK....that's enough to start with. I think there are other things, but that's the first issue to resolve. Shown are the wires (schematic such as it is from the manufacturer for the new switch.
(https://i.ibb.co/cyRWh8s/G5-wiring.gif) (https://ibb.co/cyRWh8s)
upload a pic (https://imgbb.com/)
(https://i.ibb.co/jvBTKVx/40-CED651-1-A14-4-DC0-B00-D-8-C05-DCBD69-FA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jvBTKVx)
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Let me add a little clarification. That's the switch I have. I have a Vetter fairing so the colors are different than Guzzis. The high beam wire into the fairing is white. The wire to the console for the high beam is still brown.
When you look at the original G5 schematic, the high beam is wired directly from the switch to the light. There is a separate wire for the high beam flasher which goes to the relay.
So now how do I get power to the high beam since the new switch wire (the yellow) goes to the relay? It's the only high beam wire there is on the new switch.
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Reading the switch key all the wires seem to be there
1 Yellow goes to High Beam
4 Green goes to Low Beam
6 Red/Yellow is the feed or common wire for the H/L switch
That's not a headlight relay it flashes the High beam when you press the pass button, the new switch doesn't have one of those but you could add one on the bar somewhere.
The original flash relay is probably still in good shape, its not like it gets a lot of work.
I'm wrong again, reading the description of the new switch it clearly has a pass switch, I suspect this is in the switch itself and doesn't need a relay.
The original G5 switch had an on/off switch for the lights, your new one doesn't but that's ok, lights will turn off with the ignition switch
It looks as though the original horn grounded the button to the bar, your new switch has a dedicated black wire 2 perhaps use the spare Molex pin 3 to ground that.
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At 3 AM, I think the answer came to me!! Roy, the new switch does have an on-off. The old had a passing light switch that was the same button as the horn....one way for horn, one way for passing light. It had separate wires for the passing light and the high beam.
As I followed the schematic, the passing light on the original didn't go through the high side at all!! It used the low beams and only worked when the lights were off. The new uses the high side. I'll have to disconnect the low beam wire from the relay, and hook the low beam wires directly to the switch. Then I'll need to add a new wire from the relay to the high beam wire. It will be opposite of what the original was. The high beam will be the passing light now.
Does that make sense??
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I think you can do away with the relay altogether
This is the drawing I have been looking at, yours is a bit tiny http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1978_G5.gif
See the relay was triggered by the wire thru Molex connector 49 terminal 10, (grey wire) you don't have an equivalent wire on the new switch so I assume it flashes the light directly. (not sure which filament)
Thats why I say get the light going first, I'm almost certain it will flash without needing the relay, you can leave it in place or remove it later.
I haven't seen a flash relay on any of the later model Guzzis.
Your new switch doesn't have an equivalent of the grey trigger wire and the Green wire from the relay to Low beam will be superfluous.
For Example
If you look at this later model you can see there is no relay and the switch flashes the High beam, I suspect your new switch may be that way.
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2000_Bassa.gif
Horns don't work well with a bunch of wiring if it were me I would use the old flash relay with the Horn button so you can feed those direct.
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Roy, I'm really liking this idea. It would be a simple process and i like the idea of the horn being relayed. Tbe original molex plug in was long gone before i got the bike years ago. I've replaced every spade connector on the entire harness too. I'll just use the relay i have for the horns.
Thank you Sir!! Really looking forward to getting off work to do this now!
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Great ride this evening and lights and horn work! Here's the weird thing.
My bike is drunk!! I turn the low beam lights on and my dash lights go out.....switch to high beam and the dash lights come on. With high beams on and dash lights on, when I honk the horn, the dash lights go out. With low beam on and dash lights out, they come on when I honk!!!
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Thats called character lol
When you say dash lights do you mean all the idiot lights or just the Tach and speedo illumination.
It's probably a bad ground and the lamps are grounded through the headlight filament not in use.
When you turn the filament on the ground for the lamps is pulled up to +12 so they have +12 on both ends of their filaments.
It's possible you have ground on the wrong pin of the headlamp, it might be easiest to use a separate ground for the headlight and another for the small lamps.
I always get confused when wiring an H4, am I looking at the front or am I looking at the back?
If you have a meter measure the resistance between all pins, the two with the greatest resistance are High and Low, the ground pin has a lower resistance to the other two
High |--------|-------| Low
GND
https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjVk6Kz4-DkAhUlO30KHUrpCgoQjRx6BAgBEAQ&url=%2Furl%3Fsa%3Di%26rct%3Dj%26q%3D%26esrc%3Ds%26source%3Dimages%26cd%3D%26ved%3D%26url%3Dhttp%253A%252F%252F20.svj.spirotechgroup.de%252Ftkp%252Fh4-headlight-socket-wiring-diagram.html%26psig%3DAOvVaw3TkxtVZjKZRDCXZWE8cXtG%26ust%3D1569116054897772&psig=AOvVaw3TkxtVZjKZRDCXZWE8cXtG&ust=1569116054897772
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Improvements I think...... now the speedo/tach lights only go out when I switch to high beam. There 3 ground wires coming from the dash. One of those is also attached to one that heads back under the tank. Switch and fairing grounds go into those...it doesn't seem to matter which. A common wire has to attach to all. That's how it's currently wired anyway. The horn switch wire, which just completes the ground, is attached directly to the horn grounds so now is a non issue with the lights.
Ideas? Dash lights are only affected with the low/high switch, not the separate passing switch. That baffles me since it's only one wire that handles that. I'm assuming that's all done in the switching mechanisms so isn't important to this issue?&