Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: beardog on November 01, 2019, 04:58:52 AM
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Hello
Has anyone removed the cat. converter on one of these? Put on a new y pipe and if so how did it go? Did you have to do anything else to the bike? Thanks
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I put one on as soon as they came out. I noticed it was a very tight fit as to length of overlap and the first time I had a small exhaust leak. The second time I put the front sections on by using a ratchet strap pulling the two together, then the same for the muffler section to the Y. This made a much better fit and no leaks. Don't expect a huge power increase, but it does run much cooler, which is what I was after.
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I put one on as soon as they came out. I noticed it was a very tight fit as to length of overlap and the first time I had a small exhaust leak. The second time I put the front sections on by using a ratchet strap pulling the two together, then the same for the muffler section to the Y. This made a much better fit and no leaks. Don't expect a huge power increase, but it does run much cooler, which is what I was after.
Which one did you buy? Seriously considering one to eliminate some heat and weight. Did it affect the fueling?
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I got the Agostini. The heat reduction was noticeable but power increase and fueling difference was not.
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I put the Mistral crossover pipe and carbon muffler on my V85, I didn't have an issue with fitment it slid right into place. I am getting a little bit of popping on decel right now but it isn't bad and since I added heated grips at the same time (which it turns out results in replacing the demand sensor according to Pete) and didn't do the required PADS update it cannot be narrowed down to which might be causing the popping. I do think the heat from the cat is gone now and the bike gets the same gas mileage as before and runs really well.
Other additions/changes
Double take mirrors (had them on the Stelvio so moved them over, nothing wrong with stock ones but these are more flexible and I already had them)
MRA X-screen on the windshield
MG crash bars.
MG fog lamps
Mosko Moto Nomad tank bag
FZ-1 fuse block powering heated vest lead and GPS
Centerstand
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The Augostini y-pipe also causes a mild decel-pop.
As for other mods;
Heated grips
Heated seat
Aux LED lights and custom brackets.
Black powder coating for rear frame section, headlight support, and pannier racks.
Tubeless rim conversion with 90* valves.
Heideneau front tire Mitas Dakar rear.
Front fender mudflap.
Moto Mosko tank bag or Eclipse small bag for around town.
Harmonic dampners for bar ends.
KTM turn signals.
KTM sumo mirrors
Renthal bars.
Custom handlebar upright supports.
Voltmeter/dual USB charging.
Centec 5 circuit fuse block under seat.
Earth-x LiIon battery.
Hyper Lytes
Shortened license plate/reflector carrier.
Touring windscreen.
Custom bracket for Garmin 660 GPS.
Plastic film on wear areas.
Shorten spigot for fuel cap.
Cut glove box plastic for custom tool kit.
Change fork oil from 15wt to 7.5wt.
Ohlins rear shock with preload adjuster thinned to give 1/4 "more adjustment.
Turatech stainless, lower footpegs.
Welded wider foot plate for side stand.
KTM Baja ADV larger hand guards.
OEM crash bars.
Battery tender lead.
and the V85TT PA tag !!!
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RE: Harmonic vibration dampers - what mfr. & source? Noticeable difference?
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I posted these before in my dello pics but don’t think anyone sussed em
Thought it would be mental loud, but no, barely louder than std, owner well happy, clearance for bags and no loss.
The cat is the silencer
(https://i.ibb.co/0rDsgN4/E851-D29-A-7-D5-F-4893-9580-077587244-FCF.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0rDsgN4)
(https://i.ibb.co/1nK9pPz/3-F89-D2-EF-9-C3-B-47-AE-B59-B-B81-B3-EC2924-B.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1nK9pPz)
(https://i.ibb.co/WFjsjCz/3-E7-FC69-C-EE22-4807-9-CFD-BED5-B21-FA168.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WFjsjCz)
picture hosting (https://imgbb.com/)
Cat still heavy of course but concept I get, how he rides and truth of no loss, nfi
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The harmonic balancers I designed and built. I can't sell them because the active material is mercury. They do work very well.
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Thanks to all of you folks this forum is great.
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I posted these before in my dello pics but don’t think anyone sussed em
Thought it would be mental loud, but no, barely louder than std, owner well happy, clearance for bags and no loss.
The cat is the silencer
(https://i.ibb.co/0rDsgN4/E851-D29-A-7-D5-F-4893-9580-077587244-FCF.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0rDsgN4)
(https://i.ibb.co/1nK9pPz/3-F89-D2-EF-9-C3-B-47-AE-B59-B-B81-B3-EC2924-B.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1nK9pPz)
(https://i.ibb.co/WFjsjCz/3-E7-FC69-C-EE22-4807-9-CFD-BED5-B21-FA168.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WFjsjCz)
picture hosting (https://imgbb.com/)
Cat still heavy of course but concept I get, how he rides and truth of no loss, nfi
So leave the cat heat monstrosity and remove the muffler?? Can’t be healthy.
Guzzi riders definitely beat their own drum.
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So leave the cat heat monstrosity and remove the muffler?? Can’t be healthy.
Guzzi riders definitely beat their own drum.
Could save weight by removing the passenger foot pegs, I don't think it would be too comfortable for them with that exhaust positioned as it is. And the rider might get even more heat as well but as you say to each their own.
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Trialsman,
Thanks for the follow up and I can well understand why you keep it to yourself --- don't want any more "mad hatters" out there!
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I've had very poor experience with the 90* valve stems. I had my tire guys ( family owned hd shop. have used them for years), put tires and the stems on powder coated cast V7 III wheels. Trying to stop the leaks (both valve stems included re-finishing internal & external stem threads.
I first tried chasing the male threads and adding O ringed caps; used for Nitrogen. The anodized base material seems nearly as soft as lead. I hope yours are from a different manufacturer. R3~
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I intend on doing the Y-pipe and Slip-on,
http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=26_95&products_id=5408
http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=26_105&products_id=5387
I find it interesting that no one has mentioned this little gem yet,
http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=26_105&products_id=5400
Before I do any of this though I plan on installing heated grips. Based upon some discussion here I guess I have to have the local shop do it because the new grips have to be calibrated?
Don't know. I guess I will dig into that a bit more.
Just my two cents.
Skippy
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That 'Little Gem' is an air temperature sensor fooler. The ECU will trim around it in minutes. As useful as a parachute in a submarine.
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^ Love that analogy :grin: , Peter
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Someone a while back was interested in moving the top box forward on their V85, I am also.
Here’s some shots of the work so far. The box is forward by about 150 mm.
I achieved this by removing the top mounting plate from the supporting trusses underneath and moving said plate forward by the 150 mm.
The sloped sections of the trusses forward of the tube that holds the front “c” section of the top box mounts were removed.
They are superfluous.
(https://i.ibb.co/pW07pRN/19-FBDE31-A156-42-B3-A7-C9-4-E4-A4-E0-D3-F32.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pW07pRN)
(https://i.ibb.co/HHQ0RBz/19-EF78-B9-5-D96-4282-941-B-D6843172-BA2-A.jpg) (https://ibb.co/HHQ0RBz)
(https://i.ibb.co/B2CdwdB/4-ED46703-A6-A1-48-BC-BBF7-8-DC9262-C9-D0-C.jpg) (https://ibb.co/B2CdwdB)
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Well it’s done..
I modified the mounting plate like this..
(https://i.ibb.co/4ZZknbP/446-C18-E9-F03-E-4-B2-E-8-D78-04-ABFB95-CC55.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4ZZknbP)
As mentioned, it involved removing the trusses from the plate and TIG welded them back on 150 mm rearward.
This is the finished arrangement.
(https://i.ibb.co/ypTqfGt/FC1-BD58-F-6-BFE-4-DD1-9-A54-8-FAD9-C3729-C9.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ypTqfGt)
(https://i.ibb.co/2vVPwkp/30-ABDC92-3-DE2-455-C-9-AFE-AFF8-BDD7-F26-C.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2vVPwkp)
(https://i.ibb.co/W2NGRYf/E0-A14056-746-C-435-F-BDCB-36-C9-A7-E6-A16-E.jpg) (https://ibb.co/W2NGRYf)
(https://i.ibb.co/qB1RFkb/C5-F24-C48-FE88-400-A-817-A-0-CC98-E4-DF18-E.jpg) (https://ibb.co/qB1RFkb)
(https://i.ibb.co/Z2DN9YK/274-CC7-F7-B63-A-4-BBC-B75-C-1-F5-C25-AC0927.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Z2DN9YK)
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Clever fella!
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Huzo: That's a better look. I was the one that mentioned how far back the rear box was. Thanks for the pics. I need to study more to see exactly what you did, but to me it is visually more appealing and also moves weight forward which is a plus. Thanks.
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Huzo: That's a better look. I was the one that mentioned how far back the rear box was. Thanks for the pics. I need to study more to see exactly what you did, but to me it is visually more appealing and also moves weight forward which is a plus. Thanks.
Everything forward of the round tube where the front mount of the top box hooks around, is sliced off.
You then undo the welds that connect the plate to the trusses and clean up the pieces.
You’ve to cut off the now redundant pieces of the trusses that stick out the rear to the tune of 150 mm.
Also you’ll have seen that the 4 mm round beading has been re attached to the newly shaped top plate.
I’m a big fan of relocating the centre of mass of the top box, over the centre of plate so there is no pitching moment.
Also here’s a shot of the carnage..
(https://i.ibb.co/tZbBYxc/6-E1-BEA33-C158-4-A9-B-B9-CF-F089-E11-EFE9-B.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tZbBYxc)
This is what it looks like with the cleaned up trusses re attached.
You’ll notice that there is now an unsupported section from the front of the truss, to the front tube.
It looks like this..
(https://i.ibb.co/HXdzWFF/C8-C7062-A-ED4-F-4-A85-AD3-D-F78-E38-DBE372.png) (https://ibb.co/HXdzWFF)
This would have been prone to bending and could have suffered fatigue related failure ultimately...
So, I fabricated two gussets to tie the front tube to the truss each side at the point of the front mounting bolt...
So now it looks like this..
(https://i.ibb.co/BBbjbRL/529-EB18-B-D9-F6-4-A88-BEFD-84-E5-D4-F05-F74.png) (https://ibb.co/BBbjbRL)
I’ve done a bit more tarting up of the whole shooting match, but it’s as solid as a brick shithouse and should see me out..
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Huzo. Moving that forward about 6" is perfect. If you lived close by I would be throwing money at you to make the fabrication changes to mine. Barring that, with your excellent photos and description, I will find somebody local. Hmmmm........ Trialsman, how are you with a welder?
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Huzo. Moving that forward about 6" is perfect. If you lived close by I would be throwing money at you to make the fabrication changes to mine. Barring that, with your excellent photos and description, I will find somebody local. Hmmmm........ Trialsman, how are you with a welder?
Well there’d have been no money involved mate..
It’s just the way we roll here in Oz.
It’s 7.30 Sunday morning here, as soon as I get up and take a pee, I’m starting on the GPS mount.
Oh, I forgot...I’ll walk the puppies first, it keeps Ann happy.. :wink: :kiss:
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If I would attempt it, it would involve zip ties and Gorilla Glue, maybe some solder if I was really on my game. If I was close by, I would offer to do the lawn or split firewood. Regarding metal fabrication, the only skill I possess would be in creating laughter for friends sitting around watching. I am excellent however at keeping things clean and organized. :thumb:
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If I would attempt it, it would involve zip ties and Gorilla Glue, maybe some solder if I was really on my game. If I was close by, I would offer to do the lawn or split firewood. Regarding metal fabrication, the only skill I possess would be in creating laughter for friends sitting around watching. I am excellent however at keeping things clean and organized. :thumb:
What would happen mate, is that I’d do the stuff for you that was too much and walk you through the nuts and bolts stuff..
It’s a lot of fun and is a big part of building the bond. There’d be no laughing or derisive put downs, I could not imagine being able to reassemble a 1400 Griso motor for Pete and as for Beetle’s caper..
That really is in another universe..
Do what you’re good at and have fun playing at the fringes of you knowlege. Were I you, I would find someone with the skills and hang with them for a day or so and do it together.
There’d be something you could help out with..
How good looking are you...? :wink: :kiss: :popcorn:
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In all honesty, I am not a total noob in the garage. Been involved in motorsports on and off for 45 years: raced FV, FF, IMSA Camel Light, 125 shifter karts & motorcycles. I have spent a lot of time with greasey hands and a grin on my face. Just not a fabricator. I have a tough time visualizing and then executing. I defer to people who have that talent. Keeps my sanity and is safer for anybody in the immediate area from being impaled by a flying tool.
If I "put my face on" and viewed from 10 feet away at dusk, maybe about an 8.0. I have dropped 17 pounds over the last four months, so I got that going for me
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In all honesty, I am not a total noob in the garage. Been involved in motorsports on and off for 45 years: raced FV, FF, IMSA Camel Light, 125 shifter karts & motorcycles. I have spent a lot of time with greasey hands and a grin on my face. Just not a fabricator. I have a tough time visualizing and then executing. I defer to people who have that talent. Keeps my sanity and is safer for anybody in the immediate area from being impaled by a flying tool.
If I "put my face on" and viewed from 10 feet away at dusk, maybe about an 8.0. I have dropped 17 pounds over the last four months, so I got that going for me
:thumb:
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Well I started on the GPS mount.
I began here and located one of these.
(https://i.ibb.co/SmvPYXX/442478-E5-1-EB0-485-D-A0-C5-9991580975-D4.jpg) (https://ibb.co/SmvPYXX)
For the record, it’s a V85.
Then I cut this out and the next step is to pretty it up.
(https://i.ibb.co/bv5NJcM/776-C5-CE0-E0-F5-47-D1-91-EA-C73-B9-D07345-E.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bv5NJcM)
It will mount to the handlebar clamp at the requisite angle to be square to the line of sight. To get the angle will involve some chicanery, but I’ll post as I go.
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Huzo, I was initially going to put my GPS in that location and I ran into a wrinkle. With the blended bifocal glasses that I wear, it was out of focus in that position. I ended up putting up higher (Dakar style). I just didn't want you going through a lot of unnecessary work. Check if you will be able to focus on the screen in that location. If you can't I will be glad to snap some pictures of a possible higher mount. I still love that red color, by the way!
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Yeah mate, nothing wrong with that either.
I had it up there on my GS.
(https://i.ibb.co/mBBmWzD/E7-C81609-0833-46-C3-8-A27-FE8-A9-D3625-BC.png) (https://ibb.co/mBBmWzD)
This is where my Norge one has been since day one and I’m ok with it also.
(https://i.ibb.co/KDRFzs4/D2-AC34-E9-501-C-4-FC9-9-E88-6-C770-EDFBE31.png) (https://ibb.co/KDRFzs4)
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I have always had it up top and figured I would keep it low and out of the way. I didn't plan on not being able to focus on it from riding position so.....back to the drawing board.
(https://i.ibb.co/f0LZJdN/IMG-6183.jpg) (https://ibb.co/f0LZJdN)
(https://i.ibb.co/m035cLV/IMG-6180.jpg) (https://ibb.co/m035cLV)
(https://i.ibb.co/nPrx9Z4/IMG-6181.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nPrx9Z4)
(https://i.ibb.co/GcNDdyk/IMG-6182.jpg) (https://ibb.co/GcNDdyk)
I used a piece of aluminum formed on a sheet metal brake and fastened to the back side of the upper windscreen mount. The plastic sun shroud I vacuum formed from Kydex. I placed the GPS, mount, and a 2x4 section taped to the screen to give me the standoff I desired, all went into the molding machine.
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That looks pretty bloody good from where I’m standing..!
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being impaled by a flying tool.
Is that an undesirable thing to happen to a bloke...? :popcorn:
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Is that an undesirable thing to happen to a bloke...? :popcorn:
Not anymore.
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Impale not insert.
Impale: pierce or transfix with a sharp instrument.
Insert: the act of putting something inside something else.
Hoping this would be more definitive but the more I study it, not so sure. Should have just said "by a thrown" instead. Will choose my words more precisely the future.
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Will choose my words more precisely the future.
Hell no..!
Where’s the fun in that ?
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Well I started on the GPS mount.
I began here and located one of these.
(https://i.ibb.co/SmvPYXX/442478-E5-1-EB0-485-D-A0-C5-9991580975-D4.jpg) (https://ibb.co/SmvPYXX)
For the record, it’s a V85.
Then I cut this out and the next step is to pretty it up.
(https://i.ibb.co/bv5NJcM/776-C5-CE0-E0-F5-47-D1-91-EA-C73-B9-D07345-E.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bv5NJcM)
It will mount to the handlebar clamp at the requisite angle to be square to the line of sight. To get the angle will involve some chicanery, but I’ll post as I go.
Had a chance to do some tidying up and got to here.
(https://i.ibb.co/LrH4kDk/65669618-592-E-442-C-9-D8-E-0-AD8-A7-D5-CC5-B.png) (https://ibb.co/LrH4kDk)
Next will be angled spacers to tilt the plate towards line of sight.
The bottom right hand one needs a trim I think.
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Why is your V85 different in the handlebar clamps than mine ?
(https://i.ibb.co/GdwjZJh/2-EC6-F2-B3-376-F-4356-AA89-04-BB746-A74-D9.jpg) (https://ibb.co/GdwjZJh)
(https://i.ibb.co/B2qnwGP/D84-C35-E1-5703-4912-ADA7-6-A57-B64-F4276.png) (https://ibb.co/B2qnwGP)
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I had a PHDS from my KTM Adventure and I figured it couldn't hurt. It dampens the vibrations just a little more. Between the harmonic balancers I made for inside the bars, the PHDS, and the gel grips it is smooth as silk. Looks like your mount is just about ready to install.
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Yes.
I have been delayed a bit with something else.
I found this under my bench.
(https://i.ibb.co/D9g3qNp/B9-D1537-B-2-CC6-420-B-BF42-DFFA5-B3-C1556.jpg) (https://ibb.co/D9g3qNp)
Currently doing some deft work with a 9” angle grinder, an axe and a sledge hammer to see if I can force it to fit...!
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Ok, I’m up to here..
New shock on and preload set to minimum gives a ride height about 15 mm lower in the rear than standard item.
I’ve slid the forks up the clamps 18 mm to give a vertical change of 15 at the front. My seat height on the wheels unladen is 825 mm give or take.
(https://i.ibb.co/tXSrqVw/EA4-B363-D-2-D7-A-43-F9-86-AB-A4-B4-CCD16-D36.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tXSrqVw)
(https://i.ibb.co/3hXxVc6/4-A9-F2-BBB-4-C8-A-492-A-931-F-F6-D937-B4-CF0-B.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3hXxVc6)
(https://i.ibb.co/3FHMLXm/514414-EF-6094-464-F-8-D50-490-AEA48-C02-B.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3FHMLXm)
The luggage alteration is complete, seat is as low as realistically possible and I’ll knock over the GPS final bits tomorrow.
I will post detailed shots of the relevant procedural moves if anyone is interested..
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Trialsman, you mentioned that you're using a KTM PHDS (made by Slavens Racing?) on your V85. Can you tell us which specific one you're using? I'd like to try a set.
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I am using the KTM factory PHDS with, I believe the green elasomers (softer than the standard yellow ones). The bar height and set back willo be different so you will have to match the bars to what suits you or make some risers to fit under the PHDS.
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Apparently there are several different part numbers for the PHDS' -- were yours for KTM freeride or the 690?
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Ok.
As mentioned I’ll do a gloss over the stuff I did for mounting my GPS.
It’s a Tom Tom 550.
We got to the point where we had a roughly tarted up mounting bracket, so some spacers were next on the “I want” list.
I determined the angle required to have it facing directly at me in the seated position and made a cardboard gauge.
You set that aside for now...
I made 2 long and 2 short spacers of (purposely), ample length.
They look like this.
(https://i.ibb.co/4jHhZyZ/5-EB2-AB30-E5-EB-464-A-88-ED-F79-A8-A0-A9-C60.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4jHhZyZ)
Turning back to the gauge, I used it to set up this apparatus and cut the tops off in one cut..
Like this..
(https://i.ibb.co/9cZK0Xn/1-C8-C3421-D917-48-C6-BE60-8-C81-C10-B9653.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9cZK0Xn)
To achieve this..
(https://i.ibb.co/d5ZBxBJ/6-CE71856-6234-4639-9-C27-0-DB66950527-A.jpg) (https://ibb.co/d5ZBxBJ)
Tidying them up a bit, together with the tops, they look like this...
(https://i.ibb.co/3pC9q3g/9-D770643-A96-F-4-E94-AB1-C-EDDC0211-E098.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3pC9q3g)
Assembling them on the plate that I prepared earlier reveals this piece of carnage...
(https://i.ibb.co/nLrcGYC/EBE7-C880-96-A2-4028-80-EE-6295-A56-ACBF3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nLrcGYC)
(https://i.ibb.co/RzzhDff/A09715-AD-5550-4305-9-BAA-79-D81-A7-B2-A27.jpg) (https://ibb.co/RzzhDff)
Then over to the bike and throwing the whole she-bang on board resulted in this..
(https://i.ibb.co/HVsPMjD/DEEA82-AE-BB5-C-4707-8-C0-D-759-E0-E83-D40-A.jpg) (https://ibb.co/HVsPMjD)
(https://i.ibb.co/3kf64x3/99-B29-F3-D-717-D-4-F03-9943-31-FA395-A54-F4.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3kf64x3)
(https://i.ibb.co/YphHTWy/CE730386-2022-483-D-9494-9-CA3-AA7-EBC7-E.jpg) (https://ibb.co/YphHTWy)
Tomorrow I’ll add some thin walled rubber tubing over the spacers to disguise the bare look.
Can’t be too hard if you say it fast enough.. :thumb:
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Nicely done~!
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The first time I saw a V85 was at Agostini’s and I knew I hated the “bash plate”. I don’t think it’s anywhere near stout enough to do it’s job, so I gave mine the arse after 20 metres.
The eagle eyed will notice it is removed.
There is a section of header that is single wall and noticeably smaller in OD than the rest and looks pox.
Here are 4 suggested solutions.
#1.
I could go to a local accessories manufacturer and have a real one pressed out of 3/16” or similar aluminium that won’t collapse if you hit it too hard with the sponge when you’re washing the bike, like the original apologetic attempt from Mandello.
This is the sort of stuff they do..
(https://i.ibb.co/Xtd42VF/2-EF0-B4-B4-BD3-E-43-E6-8-ABC-66-D9282-BCD86.png) (https://ibb.co/Xtd42VF)
(https://i.ibb.co/2MxK4bQ/C27-DF555-E843-45-C3-843-E-579-C0710-AC04.png) (https://ibb.co/2MxK4bQ)
They are B & B Off Road Ballarat.
#2
Do a mandrel bend in thick walled stainless tube that is identical to what that portion of header would be if it did not have the waisted section. Slice the piece through the centreline to have two mirror images and fix them to the mounting points that held the original tin thing..
#3
Laser cut a nicely dressed and styled cover from 1/4” aluminium plate, perhaps slotted for effect, to cover the gangrenous looking section.
(https://i.ibb.co/KD1YKQy/248-E5487-EF14-4515-BAFE-9-F68-F3122-CA0.png) (https://ibb.co/KD1YKQy)
(https://i.ibb.co/dkWv418/EB7-EA6-F6-12-B3-4936-B626-BC84774-B9860.png) (https://ibb.co/dkWv418)
#4
Go to the well and dredge up some $$$ and get a full Akropovic, Termignoni or similar replacement system..
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Back to the GPS for a minute..
Some treatment on the spacers...
(https://i.ibb.co/j3TQX4S/83-DB2-D42-608-D-4467-AAE8-900-C34-B64-DA2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/j3TQX4S)
The end.. :thumb:
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The first time I saw a V85 was at Agostini’s and I knew I hated the “bash plate”. I don’t think it’s anywhere near stout enough to do it’s job, so I gave mine the arse after 20 metres.
The eagle eyed will notice it is removed.
There is a section of header that is single wall and noticeably smaller in OD than the rest and looks pox.
Here are 4 suggested solutions.
#1.
I could go to a local accessories manufacturer and have a real one pressed out of 3/16” or similar aluminium that won’t collapse if you hit it too hard with the sponge when you’re washing the bike, like the original apologetic attempt from Mandello.
This is the sort of stuff they do..
(https://i.ibb.co/Xtd42VF/2-EF0-B4-B4-BD3-E-43-E6-8-ABC-66-D9282-BCD86.png) (https://ibb.co/Xtd42VF)
(https://i.ibb.co/2MxK4bQ/C27-DF555-E843-45-C3-843-E-579-C0710-AC04.png) (https://ibb.co/2MxK4bQ)
They are B & B Off Road Ballarat.
#2
Do a mandrel bend in thick walled stainless tube that is identical to what that portion of header would be if it did not have the waisted section. Slice the piece through the centreline to have two mirror images and fix them to the mounting points that held the original tin thing..
#3
Laser cut a nicely dressed and styled cover from 1/4” aluminium plate, perhaps slotted for effect, to cover the gangrenous looking section.
(https://i.ibb.co/KD1YKQy/248-E5487-EF14-4515-BAFE-9-F68-F3122-CA0.png) (https://ibb.co/KD1YKQy)
(https://i.ibb.co/dkWv418/EB7-EA6-F6-12-B3-4936-B626-BC84774-B9860.png) (https://ibb.co/dkWv418)
#4
Go to the well and dredge up some $$$ and get a full Akropovic, Termignoni or similar replacement system..
Id go with #1 myself.. Cost not being a huge issue.
-
So far the mods have included..
Ohlins shock.
Lowering the whole thing
Top box forward 6 inches
One off GPS mount
On the to do list is.
A pair of constant diameter stainless headers.
Disassembly of the rims for polishing.
Conversion to tubeless
Get rid of as much of the “black” look as possible..(I swear if that engine ever has to come out and apart, it’ll be a winter project to get the paint off..)
Probably the larger screen.
After a session of humble pie scoffing, a speedo correction device..(but I need evidence that they work on the ‘85)
That’ll do for starters.. :popcorn:
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I guess you didn’t have to be Pythagoras to figure out what’s next..
(https://i.ibb.co/7n78qLS/3-B971784-E5-E6-400-C-AD02-5-C2-DB9418-E59.jpg) (https://ibb.co/7n78qLS)
(https://i.ibb.co/S7S9Vyh/447-AF511-47-FB-4792-BD0-F-5-B7-EB09840-C9.jpg) (https://ibb.co/S7S9Vyh)
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Luverly!
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Luverly!
Will be..
Constant diameter mandrel bent stainless will replace the headers from head to Y junction.
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How was the figment of the Ago Y-Pipe to the stock headers? I have one coming this week.
Cam
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How was the figment of the Ago Y-Pipe to the stock headers? I have one coming this week.
Cam
The figment was part of my imagination, but the Y pipe fitted perfectly to the headers.
I was expecting trouble there, but not so..
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Huzo, nice advancements on your V85!
Did you have to modify center stand since lowering bike and with it fully loaded? Any increased effort hoisting her up?
P.S. If you ever get to the States we have room for you (just north of Atlanta, Georgia.) :thumb:
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The figment was part of my imagination, but the Y pipe fitted perfectly to the headers.
I was expecting trouble there, but not so..
Yea, fat fingered it on my phone. Still funny tho.
Thanks for the feedback.
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Huzo, nice advancements on your V85!
Did you have to modify center stand since lowering bike and with it fully loaded? Any increased effort hoisting her up?
P.S. If you ever get to the States we have room for you (just north of Atlanta, Georgia.) :thumb:
I appreciate that Tazio, thank you.
I would like to turn up at the gate at Cedar Vale. I’d like to have C.V. on my c.v....
I was going to in 2017, but my mate from a London made me an awwferr I couldn’t refuse..!
As for the centrestand, it’s got a nice long lever moment so I had not noticed. What is the measured seat height of a standard V85 ?
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Yea, fat fingered it on my phone. Still funny tho.
Thanks for the feedback.
Just in fun Cam.. :thumb:
-
(https://i.ibb.co/bv5NJcM/776-C5-CE0-E0-F5-47-D1-91-EA-C73-B9-D07345-E.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bv5NJcM)
What did you hack that out with Huzo?
I use a coping saw on Aluminium, works a treat
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What did you hack that out with Huzo?
I use a coping saw on Aluminium, works a treat
Nothing special mate, just a hacksaw with kerosene then a disc sander.
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Nothing special mate, just a hacksaw with kerosene then a disc sander.
Nice thing about a coping saw, you can steer it thru 1/8" like a hot knife.........
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Nice thing about a coping saw, you can steer it thru 1/8" like a hot knife.........
Yes, very true.
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Ok, I’m up to here..
New shock on and preload set to minimum gives a ride height about 15 mm lower in the rear than standard item.
I’ve slid the forks up the clamps 18 mm to give a vertical change of 15 at the front. My seat height on the wheels unladen is 825 mm give or take.
(https://i.ibb.co/tXSrqVw/EA4-B363-D-2-D7-A-43-F9-86-AB-A4-B4-CCD16-D36.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tXSrqVw)
(https://i.ibb.co/3hXxVc6/4-A9-F2-BBB-4-C8-A-492-A-931-F-F6-D937-B4-CF0-B.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3hXxVc6)
(https://i.ibb.co/3FHMLXm/514414-EF-6094-464-F-8-D50-490-AEA48-C02-B.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3FHMLXm)
The luggage alteration is complete, seat is as low as realistically possible and I’ll knock over the GPS final bits tomorrow.
I will post detailed shots of the relevant procedural moves if anyone is interested..
Hey Huzo, What's your feedback on sliding the forks up in the clamps? Better handling? Any downsides?
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Hey Huzo, What's your feedback on sliding the forks up in the clamps? Better handling? Any downsides?
Nothing that I could discern mate...
I’d wound the spring perch up the requisite amount to allow me to lower the front the same amount, thus preserving the geometry.
More or less...
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During the initial press testing, some commentators found that cornering clearance was an issue: have you been dragging the pegs since lowering the whole kit & kaboodle?
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During the initial press testing, some commentators found that cornering clearance was an issue: have you been dragging the pegs since lowering the whole kit & kaboodle?
I’m buggered if I know how they do it mate.
I certainly can’t..
-
I’m currently up to my neck in the process of making a full 1 3/4” exhaust system for the ‘85, to replace this abomination..
(https://i.ibb.co/X3S8QPp/C6492-CCA-70-D7-4-D0-D-8-C20-DA08-A67-BD226.jpg) (https://ibb.co/X3S8QPp)
To achieve this small feat, you’ve to graft the new larger pipe to the head.
To that end I made a pair of these.
(https://i.ibb.co/4J2rLTc/740-FAE70-2823-4-CEA-B617-A2-F771-F058-EC.png) (https://ibb.co/4J2rLTc)
Putting them together looks like this...
(https://i.ibb.co/tZgM4VB/080-B97-F1-EB21-4532-A6-A4-1-EDA58-A7-E352.png) (https://ibb.co/tZgM4VB)
and whacking the whole lot in the head resulted in this..
(https://i.ibb.co/br4SVLx/E04-B01-BF-01-D7-4863-9-BA7-D2-D059849273.png) (https://ibb.co/br4SVLx)
(https://i.ibb.co/yq1Qjrh/818-BD954-876-C-4-A8-D-8795-B404747-CBEE5.png) (https://ibb.co/yq1Qjrh)<br /
It can be seen that there is a recess in the spigot and this is to allow the new pipe to slide in and be TIG welded...
Now I’m waiting for the pipe to be mandrel bent to the pattern and throw the whole lot on...
-
Well done Pete. At this rate you'll have replaced every part on the bike by this time next year.
-
Well done Pete. At this rate you'll have replaced every part on the bike by this time next year.
Yeah mate.
There’s a V 42.5 hanging on the shed wall..(half a V85)
-
I cut out various shapes for the new mandrel bent headers.
The variables are radii top and bottom and degrees of bend. I experimented with 110 mm CLR (top) and 80 mm CLR bottom.
The image here is 110 top with more degrees of bend than standard and 80 mm bottom with less degrees of bend than standard. This is to give more of a sweep like on the Norge.
(https://i.ibb.co/jDNJTC3/FA140398-FB62-450-E-936-C-4-A41226-C4-F90.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jDNJTC3)
(https://i.ibb.co/XjhdZ0r/C638-F666-24-FC-4-C88-A7-FE-BACA9-CE6-EF3-F.jpg) (https://ibb.co/XjhdZ0r)
I have since opted for 110 mm CLR top and bottom, with the degrees of bend as in the mock up. I do not have a shot of the mock up in this configuration, but I prefer it...(just).
The 44 mm stainless tube is now in the mandrel bender.
-
I noticed that AF1Racing.com is listing BiTurbo rear shocks that drop the ride height by 30mm if anyone is looking to lower the bike.
-
I noticed that AF1Racing.com is listing BiTurbo rear shocks that drop the ride height by 30mm if anyone is looking to lower the bike.
https://www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=100771&sku=BM-G0032XXF61&description=Bitubo+%2D30mm+Lowering+Rear+Shock+for+V85%27s
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I got these done on a water jet cutter.
(https://i.ibb.co/BCWxQN2/3-D4-AD84-C-8-D3-C-47-D8-ABAF-B2-E5-E020-D57-C.jpg) (https://ibb.co/BCWxQN2)
Today I’ll turn the centre hole to size and dress them up.
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What are the header gaskets like on these bikes? Typical flat rings?
-
What are the header gaskets like on these bikes? Typical flat rings?
Yep, standard fare.
-
I got these done on a water jet cutter.
(https://i.ibb.co/BCWxQN2/3-D4-AD84-C-8-D3-C-47-D8-ABAF-B2-E5-E020-D57-C.jpg) (https://ibb.co/BCWxQN2)
Today I’ll turn the centre hole to size and dress them up.
So I did..
The spigots are now ready to take the mandrel bent headers which will fit into the recesses....(you’d think..).
(https://i.ibb.co/C6LX9N0/967-C2557-001-F-478-E-A4-A8-D93-D154-C730-C.jpg) (https://ibb.co/C6LX9N0)
(https://i.ibb.co/Wthzj0m/45-D6-AD63-F408-4-E75-A4-B3-2-B6-F66833-A16.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Wthzj0m)
(https://i.ibb.co/GP3W7CZ/0-ECF0524-FAD2-44-DA-A8-E2-CD6-D2-FCCE4-CC.jpg) (https://ibb.co/GP3W7CZ)
(https://i.ibb.co/grjHJW9/59-FA98-D3-AF70-4-CC9-89-EB-8-CC734-C3-DF42.jpg) (https://ibb.co/grjHJW9)
2014 c350 0 60 (https://statewideinventory.org/mercedes-0-60-times)
I would have run around the recess myself, where the clamp fixes to the spigot with my MIG, but I really felt that I needed the penetration...(who doesn’t ?..).
So TIG it is..
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Here’s today’s exciting instalment.
Picked up the mandrel bent pipes and ran off with them under my arm. They look like this.
(https://i.ibb.co/BzrNTHD/37-BFA957-CBC1-4580-9-BDE-333284-DCC70-A.jpg) (https://ibb.co/BzrNTHD)
(https://i.ibb.co/HTb0kC8/9-A167-BD8-8-D88-4850-A669-1-E9-EF9-E8-B1-C6.jpg) (https://ibb.co/HTb0kC8)
Trimmed them to length like so...
(https://i.ibb.co/BwVxqGL/BE8-E879-A-28-E6-4-C07-8-E1-C-94-DDC8-E9-A85-C.jpg) (https://ibb.co/BwVxqGL)
Shoved them wholus bolus in the spigots I’d prepared earlier.
(https://i.ibb.co/WGZqFLY/AA2-E2-E27-F8-B7-43-DF-BD5-C-9-E4-B4951-E5-CA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WGZqFLY)
And I’m up to here..
(https://i.ibb.co/59RswnF/01-DF994-E-7-F30-4-DDB-AC14-D7-B1-B3-C40591.png) (https://ibb.co/59RswnF)
(https://i.ibb.co/QvphPPr/F16480-F4-3-CD8-4742-BC26-7-BFF135-BBCFB.jpg)[/url]
(https://i.ibb.co/WGZqFLY/AA2-E2-E27-F8-B7-43-DF-BD5-C-9-E4-B4951-E5-CA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WGZqFLY)
(https://i.ibb.co/jyQ1m7y/A75-A1-CBE-3008-438-F-977-B-8-E6661-F0-B579.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jyQ1m7y)
(https://i.ibb.co/TLt6zV2/B2-C93-C73-6-B45-4351-9-CF9-0728-EAC81-F01.jpg) (https://ibb.co/TLt6zV2)
(https://i.ibb.co/sbNNrgb/8003-FDA8-2-E22-4348-868-B-B4-CA9423-D301.jpg) (https://ibb.co/sbNNrgb)
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Ok.
Today I shortened the dimension where the header leaves the head by 30 mm, I thought it looked better.
Here’s a shot..
(https://i.ibb.co/qDVCcWM/DD1-CB334-2-B98-49-F9-B96-B-A591-C31-CCB83.jpg) (https://ibb.co/qDVCcWM)
upload (https://imgbb.com/)
Also instead of flaring the 44 mm pipe that comprises the new headers so it would fit into the Y piece which is 48 mm I.D., I tapped around the 2” and reduced it so as to blend with the 44 stuff.
Anyway, bottom line is it looks nicer. I got a nice stainless clamp which supports the system adjacent to the swing arm pivot, it uses the original mount that held the cat. converter.
(https://i.ibb.co/RTYKKYz/2-FF8-E6-F6-6-E6-B-4131-8314-867-BEBC1504-A.jpg) (https://ibb.co/RTYKKYz)
I have hit the joints with the MIG so it can be taken off and TIG welded.
Tomorrow it’s plot the location for the O2 sensor/s, then bore the hole/s.
Then extend the wiring to the sensors if required and hit the starter to see if I’ve fried the ECU....(hope not) :popcorn:
Oh, and while we’re on about O2 sensor placement..
I’ve read and been told by someone who KNOWS, that the proximity of the exhaust outlet at the head to the sensor, is about as close as you’d want.
I’m going to attempt to place them down near the bend where the pipes swing around the back of the crankcase. From what I’ve gleaned this location will be suitable, but if there are any comments I’m here to learn..
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I'm impressed with your skills mate ! Your breaking new ground yet again ....
-
I'm impressed with your skills mate ! Your breaking new ground yet again ....
As long as that’s all I break FF.
Is that Quota out of the weather ?
-
Ready for the TIG..
(https://i.ibb.co/YfWZ0xL/542-E59-F7-3-E09-4-AC3-9-ACE-5-C7-D4-F4-A3527.jpg) (https://ibb.co/YfWZ0xL)
(https://i.ibb.co/WPLww8h/DABE8-E06-8-C6-B-4358-8-E6-A-D6-DBA11-FC120.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WPLww8h)
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The first time the tyres come off, I’m polishing the rims and sealing the spokes.
-
Hello
Has anyone removed the cat. converter on one of these? Put on a new y pipe and if so how did it go? Did you have to do anything else to the bike? Thanks
No
-
Yes.
Dunno how it goes, but I’ll tell you in a couple of days.
-
My input will be of limited value, because of the complete removal of the whole system to install this
(https://i.ibb.co/LZQcYMz/20575-A55-370-E-4-C57-B309-E9-BF57139478.jpg) (https://ibb.co/LZQcYMz)
(https://i.ibb.co/bKrkzm3/F8-FDEA03-1673-4-CE8-90-B5-445-C6882-A292.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bKrkzm3)
It will not be possible for me to know which action caused which change if any.
-
TIG’ed together.
(https://i.ibb.co/gg8VFxn/968-A14-BE-2978-4-E0-F-8-FBE-C4108-C287-F09.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gg8VFxn)
(https://i.ibb.co/b3kL5xM/45-E512-F5-071-C-424-F-AE68-C253-F126-D914.jpg) (https://ibb.co/b3kL5xM)
(https://i.ibb.co/wc70Y3r/9-D8-C7503-4283-4-FF1-AE50-9-AE93519-FDA2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wc70Y3r)
Now..
Fit the O2 sensors, polish the whole lot and do up the bolts... :bike-037:
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Well it’s done..
https://youtu.be/oOS_szE49Mw
(https://i.ibb.co/4tW70Zc/F6382-F4-E-D786-422-A-9054-7-B5-D066-E0-DA2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4tW70Zc)
(https://i.ibb.co/VQW3vwq/FE84248-A-CF64-4-A60-8917-AF25-D24-E65-E2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/VQW3vwq)
(https://i.ibb.co/pX5zTYd/0283-BEC1-B945-4-C6-C-B819-B7-BCBEC7-E7-F7.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pX5zTYd)
I’ll need to gather some information though.
The small yellow engine light is now illuminated. There are no oil pressure or temp warnings., no other indications on the panel.
-
That's looking really nice...truly a customized Wee 85...engine sounds very smooth.
Thoughts on the V85 engine compared to the Norge - only asking as I'm not yet tempted to get a V85 at the moment, but they do look great!
-
Looks and sounds fantastic, great job! As you mentioned earlier, several changes at once may make for a bit of work chasing down the cause of the light, but should be solvable. Apparently most of the "muffling" is being done by the catalyst, so if one is looking for a throatier sound, perhaps a Y pipe would be the most prudent approach.
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That's looking really nice...truly a customized Wee 85...engine sounds very smooth.
Thoughts on the V85 engine compared to the Norge - only asking as I'm not yet tempted to get a V85 at the moment, but they do look great!
A bit like an old school V8 versus a modern performance six.
I wouldn’t bet against the V85 versus 2 VPC Norge up to 160 k’s, but you’ve to add 1000 to 1500 rpm to your revs, to replicate the Norge performance as a thumbnail measurement.
The ‘85 spins up very readily and is not as “lumpy” as the Norge, however the Norge feels like liquid velvet when in it’s element.
-
Just heading out to do a tank of fuel and check consumption figure.
Last time at legal speeds was 4.6 l/100 k (measured). I want to make sure it’s not running too lean.
-
A bit like an old school V8 versus a modern performance six.
I wouldn’t bet against the V85 versus 2 VPC Norge up to 160 k’s, but you’ve to add 1000 to 1500 rpm to your revs, to replicate the Norge performance as a thumbnail measurement.
The ‘85 spins up very readily and is not as “lumpy” as the Norge, however the Norge feels like liquid velvet when in it’s element.
Very nice!! Love the description. :)
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Well the numbers are in..
204 km for 8.82 litres.
100/204 x 8.82=4.3 l/100 k
Not adversely lean and very close to my last test which gave 4.6 l/100 k
However the test that returned the 4.6 result was under absolutely ideal conditions and almost exclusively freeway but not absolutely so.
This test was some suburban and getting lost in a town, but very little speeding. Given all that though, it’s returned a leaner figure when it could have been forgiven for drinking a little harder.
The flat spot is centred at 3,000 rpm with a band of 200 rpm each side. If you accelerate normally, you’re through it without noticing (much), but put it on 3,000 and open the throttle and she’s not dead keen.
I will have a look and see if the yellow light has thrown a code.
Went out again after a bit of remedial work and the flat spot is gone...(at this stage).
But the light remains.
-
I’ve commented on another thread, but suffice to say the light problem is fixed.
Next mod is better bash plate and polish the rims, then I think that might be it... :thumb:
-
I’ve commented on another thread, but suffice to say the light problem is fixed.
Next mod is better bash plate and polish the rims, then I think that might be it... :thumb:
My rims were dirty and I was out of polish so what's a rider to do?
(https://photos.smugmug.com/V85TT/i-QTfTQCV/0/157a97b0/X2/IMG_20200221_142455-X2.jpg)
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I know there’s a difference, but I just can’t put my finger on it.....
(https://i.ibb.co/pjgB1z6/6633293-E-178-D-4-EFD-AA49-D395-A082-F6-CA.png) (https://ibb.co/pjgB1z6)
(https://i.ibb.co/g4sVR6c/CDC5-D6-B5-DC03-4676-98-B9-4-C8042-D4-B35-A.png) (https://ibb.co/g4sVR6c)
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yours are smaller, shinier and more delicate looking and no bash plate. looks good.
-
yours are smaller, shinier and more delicate looking and no bash plate. looks good.
Delicate.
Hmmmm... Jeez I hope not for what’s coming up.. :undecided:
-
you asked. i think it is a more classic look with the chrome.
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you asked. i think it is a more classic look with the chrome.
Chrome..?
-
looks chrome compared to stock, but i guess not, let us say, shiny as opposed to the stock matte.
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looks chrome compared to stock, but i guess not, let us say, shiny as opposed to the stock matte.
Would you please tell me what part of the bike you are referring to ?
If it’s the pipes, they’re not chrome, they’re stainless.
-
yeah, the pipes.
-
(https://i.ibb.co/0DQRt60/9-AA491-BA-11-A6-46-AE-AA8-F-00907-ACCBAA4.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0DQRt60)
(https://i.ibb.co/WWsLmbk/7-EA03334-D40-B-44-AF-83-AA-281-FC5-F1-F02-C.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WWsLmbk)
Looking ok at 5,000 k’s
-
My rims were dirty and I was out of polish so what's a rider to do?
(https://photos.smugmug.com/V85TT/i-QTfTQCV/0/157a97b0/X2/IMG_20200221_142455-X2.jpg)
So what did you do...Buy a cardboard box..?
-
As mentioned in an earlier post, my V85 is getting a different bash plate.
I’ve never been a fan of the standard bash plate/pipe guard setup from the moment I rode the first one at Agostini’s.
I made a pattern in thin material that I could bend and alter easily, it looks like this.
(https://i.ibb.co/sHy1PCm/35-A7-FF40-CA36-4768-9-E41-C1-E0-F87-CF5-DB.jpg) (https://ibb.co/sHy1PCm)
Bending it into shape revealed this..
(https://i.ibb.co/1dYTMfy/ABA3-DBED-F898-4618-92-AF-3775-AD4-AF252.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1dYTMfy)
Happy with that I went on and did it in aluminium
(https://i.ibb.co/6YQPZtL/AA095-D2-C-914-E-45-C6-92-AF-F6-B833552438.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6YQPZtL)
(https://i.ibb.co/X2yzwR7/E7-BB7-A5-A-5646-454-C-8-F85-73-E97-AC87-A0-D.jpg) (https://ibb.co/X2yzwR7)
A little bit more work and a tidy up and happy days..
Also there’ll be a bracket from the crash bar mount , behind the pipe and connecting to the plate.
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Is it OK to ask an electrical question in the thread? I am preparing to add a set of Skene P3 aux brake/running lights to my V85TT. I found a plug along the left side under the seat next to the big box back there. There are 6 wires going into and out of the plug. I've id'd some of the wires using a volt meter. Red=right turn, light blue= left turn, yellow is switched, yellow/black is switched (I assume one of these is tail light and one license plate light), yellow/green and dark blue do not light up. I thought one of them would be brake light, but neither light up when I activate the brakes. I need to tap into a running light, brake light, and turn signals for the Skene P3s to work correctly.
I will also be adding the Skene Photon Blasters up front. They light up yellow and flash with the turn signals, so I will also have to tap them into a running light, and turn signals. Any help with identifying the necessary wires is greatly appreciated.
I have a printed wiring diagram that I downloaded with a service manual, but it is very small print, and I can't get it to blow up enough to read.
Thanks,
Pfestus1
Hank Pfister
Roanoke, Va
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The bash plate is done..
It looks a bit strange in the shot, but that is a perspective thing.
(https://i.ibb.co/ZcysBZm/82-CA3-B3-C-736-C-44-F6-A16-D-4-AF4-FF7-DDB05.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ZcysBZm)
(https://i.ibb.co/cwZCLfZ/4-E6-AF7-A5-0-F91-474-E-A1-D5-BEC302-AB79-A2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cwZCLfZ)
(https://i.ibb.co/2sgwXtv/6-BEA333-B-6-E46-4-E43-916-A-8-D383588-D9-D6.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2sgwXtv)
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The bash plate is done..
It looks a bit strange in the shot, bit that is a perspective thing.
(https://i.ibb.co/ZcysBZm/82-CA3-B3-C-736-C-44-F6-A16-D-4-AF4-FF7-DDB05.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ZcysBZm)
(https://i.ibb.co/cwZCLfZ/4-E6-AF7-A5-0-F91-474-E-A1-D5-BEC302-AB79-A2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cwZCLfZ)
(https://i.ibb.co/2sgwXtv/6-BEA333-B-6-E46-4-E43-916-A-8-D383588-D9-D6.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2sgwXtv)
Looks good f...nuts. Professional, even. Sort of what Mandello should've supplied in the first place.
I dig those mandrel-bent headers too!
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Rims are next... :popcorn:
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Summat like Kineos or Alpinas?
Or some 3M goo & tape?
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Summat like Kineos or Alpinas?
Or some 3M goo & tape?
I’ll dismantle the wheels and polish the rims. I would like the black removed from the swing arm and everything from there back, bevel drive and both hubs. and re do them in silver like the Norge.
Then see what I have to do to get blind nipples to fit. I may have to roll a bit more thread onto the spokes, but that’s unknown at this stage.
Just goo for me, no tape.
I’m also thinking to have the engine crash bars nickel plated and the rocker covers polished.
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I’ll dismantle the wheels and polish the rims. I would like the black removed from the swing arm and everything from there back, bevel drive and both hubs. and re do them in silver like the Norge.
Then see what I have to do to get blind nipples to fit. I may have to roll a bit more thread onto the spokes, but that’s unknown at this stage.
Just goo for me, no tape.
I’m also thinking to have the engine crash bars nickel plated and the rocker covers polished.
That's one seriously major suite of tasks. Given the time & effort you're investing in your "lil' red rooster", it's going to be the most unique & valuable TTs out there. Not just in Oz, but ennyfriggin'ware!
Don't dump it in the dirt on your Yorkie run - assuming you can make it before the onset of "the wet" - when Coronatime is eventually over.
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That's one seriously major suite of tasks. Given the time & effort you're investing in your "lil' red rooster", it's going to be the most unique & valuable TTs out there. Not just in Oz, but ennyfriggin'ware!
Don't dump it in the dirt on your Yorkie run - assuming you can make it before the onset of "the wet" - when Coronatime is eventually over.
I expect that it’ll be ok KD.
Also yes, I’m happy with the results of my buggerising around, but just like the Norge, not much of it really needed to be done.
Just good fun.
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(https://i.ibb.co/0DQRt60/9-AA491-BA-11-A6-46-AE-AA8-F-00907-ACCBAA4.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0DQRt60)
(https://i.ibb.co/WWsLmbk/7-EA03334-D40-B-44-AF-83-AA-281-FC5-F1-F02-C.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WWsLmbk)
Looking ok at 5,000 k’s
They look great. What size pipe did you use?
Have you considered making sets for other people?
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They look great. What size pipe did you use?
Have you considered making sets for other people?
The pipe is 1 3/4” or 44.45 mm
I can explain any part of the process for anyone interested...(a familiar story)
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The pipe is 1 3/4” or 44.45 mm
I can explain any part of the process for anyone interested...(a familiar story)
Thanks! I figured it was 1 3/4” but wanted to be sure.
I can make my own pipes but there is nobody around that can bend them so mine will be segmented. It’s no big deal to me but a nice continuous pipe back to underneath the transmission would be nicer looking. Some specs on your exhaust port stubs would be nice if you’re willing to share.
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Thanks! I figured it was 1 3/4” but wanted to be sure.
I can make my own pipes but there is nobody around that can bend them so mine will be segmented. It’s no big deal to me but a nice continuous pipe back to underneath the transmission would be nicer looking. Some specs on your exhaust port stubs would be nice if you’re willing to share.
What would you like to know ?
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What would you like to know ?
Can you provide dimensions for your stubs? I really don’t want to have to take the bike apart to figure it out until I have the material to make the exhaust. Thanks
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Can you provide dimensions for your stubs? I really don’t want to have to take the bike apart to figure it out until I have the material to make the exhaust. Thanks
I’d tell you if I knew mate, but the fact is I just turned them to whatever looked right, then made a second one.
I did turn the recess for the pipe/s to 44.4 to accept the header, but again it was a “touch” thing more than a dimensional specification.
The I.D. of the stub is the same as the outlet port, and the bit that reaches in to contact the gasket is made to be a relatively neat fit.
This probably the most revealing shot..
(https://i.ibb.co/wLKWMYp/EFB410-B9-429-B-437-D-8-D45-00-ED999-BEE2-A.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wLKWMYp)
As I see it, you’ve to keep the tolerances between the aluminium parts and the stainless a little bit looser than normal because I don’t know what expansion of dissimilar metals is going to do.
If I did it again, I’d probably turn a register for the exhaust clamp to slide on to in the time honoured way instead of welding it, but that’ll be ok.
Also, it really is 5 minutes to take the headers off, there are no demons waiting there.
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Originally I made up a set of mounts for placing the driving lights more or less in the factory position. I felt they were bright enough to "burn out" the turn signals so I decided to mount a set to the crash bars instead.
(https://i.ibb.co/1d1bX7G/IMG-6107.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1d1bX7G)
I didn't want to weld a bracket to the bars so it meant putting up with a lot of weird angles to come up with the lights in the right placement.
(https://i.ibb.co/K5vKsc2/IMG-6496.jpg) (https://ibb.co/K5vKsc2)
(https://i.ibb.co/gdFKtFv/IMG-6497.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gdFKtFv)
(https://i.ibb.co/j4PGVjk/IMG-6499.jpg) (https://ibb.co/j4PGVjk)
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Initially I zip tied the wires to the crash bars and it looked really bad so I tore it all apart. I drilled into the tubing and fished the wires through and out the top end. It made for a much cleaner install. The lights are much better now.
(https://i.ibb.co/WfbCfsc/IMG-6507.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WfbCfsc)
(https://i.ibb.co/VYy7V5t/IMG-6506.jpg) (https://ibb.co/VYy7V5t)
(https://i.ibb.co/DwSg78B/IMG-6513.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DwSg78B)
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Happy with that I went on and did it in aluminium
(https://i.ibb.co/6YQPZtL/AA095-D2-C-914-E-45-C6-92-AF-F6-B833552438.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6YQPZtL)
(https://i.ibb.co/X2yzwR7/E7-BB7-A5-A-5646-454-C-8-F85-73-E97-AC87-A0-D.jpg) (https://ibb.co/X2yzwR7)
Nice work. 0.125"?
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The Augostini y-pipe also causes a mild decel-pop.
As for other mods;
Heated grips
Heated seat
Aux LED lights and custom brackets.
Black powder coating for rear frame section, headlight support, and pannier racks.
Tubeless rim conversion with 90* valves.
Heideneau front tire Mitas Dakar rear.
Front fender mudflap.
Moto Mosko tank bag or Eclipse small bag for around town.
Harmonic dampners for bar ends.
KTM turn signals.
KTM sumo mirrors
Renthal bars.
Custom handlebar upright supports.
Voltmeter/dual USB charging.
Centec 5 circuit fuse block under seat.
Earth-x LiIon battery.
Hyper Lytes
Shortened license plate/reflector carrier.
Touring windscreen.
Custom bracket for Garmin 660 GPS.
Plastic film on wear areas.
Shorten spigot for fuel cap.
Cut glove box plastic for custom tool kit.
Change fork oil from 15wt to 7.5wt.
Ohlins rear shock with preload adjuster thinned to give 1/4 "more adjustment.
Turatech stainless, lower footpegs.
Welded wider foot plate for side stand.
KTM Baja ADV larger hand guards.
OEM crash bars.
Battery tender lead.
and the V85TT PA tag !!!
Wow! What a cool list!!
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Wow some of you guys have gone gang busters with the mods. Nice.
All I’ve done...
MG engine guards
MG center stand
Heated grips
Denali lights
GPS mount
Windscreen mod
Anakee tires
Acres of reflective tape/stickers
Still need to install the hyper light brake lights from the Norge.
And rebuild forks. Gonna wait until everything reopens on the likelihood that I don’t have the correct springs on hand.
Couple of crappy pix. And yeah I know the garage is a mess.
(https://i.ibb.co/wWqb0Sb/67031509-FCA0-4-AF8-892-B-32-EA32774-B8-C.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wWqb0Sb)
(https://i.ibb.co/ZBbk0H7/04-D91882-518-E-40-CB-9-F6-E-7703-D28940-F6.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ZBbk0H7)
(https://i.ibb.co/Sv5L7py/7-BB54940-5-A6-E-48-D5-8066-B2-A7-F063334-C.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Sv5L7py)
(https://i.ibb.co/0Fk0wYZ/13887-EB1-FE8-E-4951-BB42-A4-B59282440-B.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0Fk0wYZ)
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Nice work. 0.125"?
Yes.
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Well I started on the GPS mount.
I began here and located one of these.
(https://i.ibb.co/SmvPYXX/442478-E5-1-EB0-485-D-A0-C5-9991580975-D4.jpg) (https://ibb.co/SmvPYXX)
For the record, it’s a V85.
Then I cut this out and the next step is to pretty it up.
(https://i.ibb.co/bv5NJcM/776-C5-CE0-E0-F5-47-D1-91-EA-C73-B9-D07345-E.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bv5NJcM)
It will mount to the handlebar clamp at the requisite angle to be square to the line of sight. To get the angle will involve some chicanery, but I’ll post as I go.
Hey! Where did you source 12 volt power for it?
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Elvis, I mounted mine on the bar clamp also. See above post.
I pulled power directly off the USB port on the dash. My unit draws a max of 3/4 amps and the port is rated at a little over 1 amp. Can’t remember the exact number. To be extra safe I also put a one amp fuse for the port and gps. I’ll never use that port anyway as it is a switched port.
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Hey! Where did you source 12 volt power for it?
I just tapped into the rear tail light wire.
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Elvis, I mounted mine on the bar clamp also. See above post.
I pulled power directly off the USB port on the dash. My unit draws a max of 3/4 amps and the port is rated at a little over 1 amp.
Of course, being a USB port, you're only gonna get 5v out of that source. For those who require 12v, there is a step up device that can deliver 12v out of the USB socket besides the dash. I used one for a while to drive a 12v radar detector until I managed to install the proper harness. Worked fine.
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Of course, being a USB port, you're only gonna get 5v out of that source. For those who require 12v, there is a step up device that can deliver 12v out of the USB socket besides the dash. I used one for a while to drive a 12v radar detector until I managed to install the proper harness. Worked fine.
True dat. Guess I should have been clearer. I tapped into the 12volt power Before the port. Not the port itself.
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I took the pipes off the V85 today to make a small modification to the lines.
I was not totally happy with the way they ran under the motor, they were not parallel with the ground, but they are now.
While the muffler is off, I thought I’d investigate the prospect of mounting a lower one like on my mate’s BMW.
(https://i.ibb.co/svSZ07F/4-E132-A6-A-01-E2-4-FCA-90-F7-C9-B515-E69-AA1.png) (https://ibb.co/svSZ07F)
(https://i.ibb.co/tYFQkH7/25-F24509-739-B-401-A-BADD-7-D2-C3395-A754.png) (https://ibb.co/tYFQkH7)
I think it will complement the existing lines and plan to angle it the same as the frame tube.
(https://i.ibb.co/vZW1qPF/53-FE4-B6-F-F636-4-B37-B8-C7-ACABE0542724.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vZW1qPF)
Also the space between the top of the tyre and the guard will be see through and consequently enhance the “lighter” look that I am chasing.
It won’t be a carbon copy, but styled similarly.
Is there a photo shopper out there that could pop an Akrapovich, Termignoni or similar on the left side for perusal ?
Also, is there a muffler out there that is known to be appropriate for the ‘85 ?
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I posted these before in my dello pics but don’t think anyone sussed em
Thought it would be mental loud, but no, barely louder than std, owner well happy, clearance for bags and no loss.
The cat is the silencer
(https://i.ibb.co/0rDsgN4/E851-D29-A-7-D5-F-4893-9580-077587244-FCF.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0rDsgN4)
(https://i.ibb.co/1nK9pPz/3-F89-D2-EF-9-C3-B-47-AE-B59-B-B81-B3-EC2924-B.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1nK9pPz)
(https://i.ibb.co/WFjsjCz/3-E7-FC69-C-EE22-4807-9-CFD-BED5-B21-FA168.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WFjsjCz)
picture hosting (https://imgbb.com/)
Cat still heavy of course but concept I get, how he rides and truth of no loss, nfi
Can I have some details and better shots of what that is please ? I am very interested before I go on with replacing the muffler...
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Somewhere or other I posted a bit about bending the float arm on the V85 fuel gauge to give a more accurate indication.
The verdict is as follows.
I took the unit out and lowered the float to the point where the light came on and marked it.
Then lowered it all the way to the bottom and again marked it.
Then raising the arm to half way between those points, I held the mechanism still, while bending the float to the bottom. I rode the bike until the fuel light came on and immediately filled the tank from that point, it took 18 litres to fill, so that means there was 5 litres 120 km left.
That’s good enough..
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Initially I zip tied the wires to the crash bars and it looked really bad so I tore it all apart. I drilled into the tubing and fished the wires through and out the top end. It made for a much cleaner install. The lights are much better now.
Can you tell me where the High Beam trace was taken from? What colour wire was it? Looking to fit a Skene controller for my spots.
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The Augostini y-pipe also causes a mild decel-pop.
As for other mods;
Heated grips
Heated seat
Aux LED lights and custom brackets.
Black powder coating for rear frame section, headlight support, and pannier racks.
Tubeless rim conversion with 90* valves.
Heideneau front tire Mitas Dakar rear.
Front fender mudflap.
Moto Mosko tank bag or Eclipse small bag for around town.
Harmonic dampners for bar ends.
KTM turn signals.
KTM sumo mirrors
Renthal bars.
Custom handlebar upright supports.
Voltmeter/dual USB charging.
Centec 5 circuit fuse block under seat.
Earth-x LiIon battery.
Hyper Lytes
Shortened license plate/reflector carrier.
Touring windscreen.
Custom bracket for Garmin 660 GPS.
Plastic film on wear areas.
Shorten spigot for fuel cap.
Cut glove box plastic for custom tool kit.
Change fork oil from 15wt to 7.5wt.
Ohlins rear shock with preload adjuster thinned to give 1/4 "more adjustment.
Turatech stainless, lower footpegs.
Welded wider foot plate for side stand.
KTM Baja ADV larger hand guards.
OEM crash bars.
Battery tender lead.
and the V85TT PA tag !!!
Any issues taking off the headlight support? The rear is straight forward but the front looks to be a bit more involved.
Thanks for any info!
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No issues taking off the headlight support for powder coating. When reinstalling you need to align the bracket perpendicular to the frame. I found a lot of the misalignment came from here. The holes are larger than the bolts so you can torque it one way or another to get the bracket just right. While you are there do the bars, loosening then re- tightening the bolts under the top triple clamp and at the clamps to the bars. A thousand miles or so since I adjusted everything and it is still straight. Used to drive me nuts.
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Can I have some details and better shots of what that is please ? I am very interested before I go on with replacing the muffler...
No, I saw it in Mandello last year, pics were self explanatory, I thought
The cat is the silencer, all he did was remove the nominal silencer (muffler)
Little chrome tip from auto or HD world, his only expense
Wins in the Guzzi content and amazing how quiet it was, fixed the saddlebag issue totally
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Bump for Pescatore.
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Hello Guzzistas,
I just bought bought my first Guzzi ( 2020 V85TT)and am thrilled. Winter has allowed me some time to do some farkeling. My question is where are the fog light leads located, so I may hook up fog lights to those connectors. Also does anyone know what those connectors are called/size so I can order what I need to hook up to them properly?
Thanks
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Wiring diagram (https://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_small_blocks_wiring_diagrams_-very_large_and_easy_to_read-.html) shows the fog lights (where fitted) amongst the headlight and front flashers, so I think you can assume the connections will be in the headlight shell.
The diagram also shows a headlight relay (#61 on the diagram) which I assume will also go in the headlight shell. I've never bothered with fog lights, so can't help any further.
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This might help from another V85tt page.
GIVI Fog Light Mount Kit LS8203
https://www.af1racing.com/Givi-Fog-Light-Mount-Kit-LS8203
STEDI MCX10 MOTORCYLE LED LIGHT DRIVING BEAM
https://www.stedi.com.au/mcx-10-motorcyle-led-light-driving-beam.html
Quad Logic ATV Adjustable 3/4" - 1" Rack or Handlebar Clamp Mount
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N7DTTJP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_wBxZFb9DHP1RN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
AUX Light Wiring harness by Gregory Bender Part number: V85TT-AUX-LIGHTS
https://www.thisoldtractor.com/for_sale_wiring_harness_small_blocks_V85TT-AUX-LIGHTS.html
Works with factory switch gear. Relay is under the tank next to evap canister. I actually prefer this location and it made the install a relatively cleaner one vs the relay and harness buried behind the headlight.
Still had to lift the tank enough to get the side panel off and fish the connector through but only had to remove the windshield and hang the headlight to connect the wires and zip ties.
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Bought a set of these driving lights to put on my engine guards. Main attractions were the wattage and clamp system. https://www.amazon.com/SUPAREE-Auxiliary-Driving-Protect-Motorcycle/dp/B072L2SQMV/ref=sr_1_21?dchild=1&keywords=40w+motorcycle+driving+lights&qid=1614067419&s=automotive&sr=1-21[/url (https://www.amazon.com/SUPAREE-Auxiliary-Driving-Protect-Motorcycle/dp/B072L2SQMV/ref=sr_1_21?dchild=1&keywords=40w+motorcycle+driving+lights&qid=1614067419&s=automotive&sr=1-21[/url)
Not sure if I'll tie them in to the harness though as that would limit their use to high-beam only. Thinking I want them on all the time to be more conspicuous (aimed correctly of course to avoid blinding oncoming drivers). Kinda interesting which bike they used in the advertisement...
(https://i.ibb.co/SBL2WCj/71-WKw-Pbs79-L-AC-SL1100.jpg) (https://ibb.co/SBL2WCj)
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I fitted my lights with a Skene controller to allow the spots to run as DRL's.
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Bump
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The Augostini y-pipe also causes a mild decel-pop.
As for other mods;
Heated grips
Heated seat
Aux LED lights and custom brackets.
Black powder coating for rear frame section, headlight support, and pannier racks.
Tubeless rim conversion with 90* valves.
Heideneau front tire Mitas Dakar rear.
Front fender mudflap.
Moto Mosko tank bag or Eclipse small bag for around town.
Harmonic dampners for bar ends.
KTM turn signals.
KTM sumo mirrors
Renthal bars.
Custom handlebar upright supports.
Voltmeter/dual USB charging.
Centec 5 circuit fuse block under seat.
Earth-x LiIon battery.
Hyper Lytes
Shortened license plate/reflector carrier.
Touring windscreen.
Custom bracket for Garmin 660 GPS.
Plastic film on wear areas.
Shorten spigot for fuel cap.
Cut glove box plastic for custom tool kit.
Change fork oil from 15wt to 7.5wt.
Ohlins rear shock with preload adjuster thinned to give 1/4 "more adjustment.
Turatech stainless, lower footpegs.
Welded wider foot plate for side stand.
KTM Baja ADV larger hand guards.
OEM crash bars.
Battery tender lead.
and the V85TT PA tag !!!
@ Trialsman
what Voltmeter did you buy and where did you put the indicator. I am looking for ideas.
Also the oil temperature would be of interest. Albeit the V85TT has an oil temperature sensor I am tempted to use one at the drain plug instead (not to mess with the Guzzi on board electronics).
cheers
Andreas
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@ Trialsman
what Voltmeter did you buy and where did you put the indicator. I am looking for ideas.
Also the oil temperature would be of interest. Albeit the V85TT has an oil temperature sensor I am tempted to use one at the drain plug instead (not to mess with the Guzzi on board electronics).
cheers
Andreas
I've bought the LED kits that show basic voltage state on a number of different bikes, and I'll probably get one for the V85 as well. It's simple, so you can tell relative voltage state at a glance, and it is tiny so it can mount in a variety of places. I'm considering the blank panel on the opposite side from the dash of the USB port.
http://www.sparkbright.co.uk/sparkright-eclipse-battery-voltage-monitor.php
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Here you go Andreas;
BlueFire Upgraded Aluminum Alloy Quick Charge 3.0 USB Car Charger Socket & 2.4A USB Port IP66 Waterproof Dual USB Power Outlet with Voltmeter for Car Boat Marine Rv Motorcycle(Silver-Green)
Another mod I made was to the brake pedal. I kept dragging the rear brake as my toe would hit the pedal tip. The brake pedal takes a dramatic bend and places it squarely in line of my boot. I cut the pedal and re-TIGged it so that it now is about parallel to the frame but without the offset. It is tucked in about an inch and a half. I have never dragged it since and have always been easily able to find it when needed.
I also never warmed up to the matte finish on the Centenario so I sprayed gloss over it and added some green to the tank. It looks so much better now.
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(https://i.ibb.co/DfcT7RJ/V85-TT-Green-ll.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DfcT7RJ)
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Bump
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Y-pipe update. I just completed the 18,000 service and let me tell you, doing the engine oil and the tranny fluid is a piece of cake without the big old cat in the way.
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Bumped for Cam3512
Top box position enquiry.
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Bumped for inditx…
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Beautiful, many thanks!
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Bumped for Bulldog, see reply #17 onwards, there’s some other stuff there too.
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Does this look better than the black ?
(https://i.ibb.co/359MGg73/IMG-5257.png) (https://ibb.co/359MGg73)
You can hardly tell the difference.
(https://i.ibb.co/wF3JK1YJ/IMG-5249.png) (https://ibb.co/wF3JK1YJ)