Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: JayDee24ca on December 19, 2019, 07:45:42 PM
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This G5 I am working on had fairly badly brinelled steering bearings, so I want to replace them. I am having a heck of a time getting the lower inner race off the steering stem, short of cutting it off. Do I need to use a bearing splitter to get it off, or is there a better way (I don't own a splitter). I tried heating it up and turning it off, but that sucker won't budge.
JD
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I use a bearing separator similar to this one: https://www.harborfreight.com/bearing-separator-63662.html
If you position it carefully, you won't mess up the rubber seal or it's washer.
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What ever you do , Do Not heat the entire bearing . Chances are you've already removed the cage and rollers from the bearing assembly, if not
then I'd suggest doing it . Cool the stem assembly ( freezer ) and after removing it from the freezer, heat only one small area with an acetylene torch tip
until it's Hot , then try slamming the stem (while holding the aluminum fork tree) . If no success , use a chisel or flat bladed screw driver and strike
between the bottom of the bearing race and the tree, this should wedge it down . Good luck
I'm not sure a propane torch is adequate , it would be too slow at getting the race up to temp without heating the steering stem also .
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I did this on my Eldorado about 12 years ago, but didn't make any notes how I did it. I think I'll pop for a bearing splitter down at Lordco (local FLAPS), as that sounds like the best way.
One trick I have used in situations like this before, where there is difficulty in keeping the inner part cool while heating the outer, is, after heating the one part, spray the heck out of the inner part with aerosol freeze spray designed for electronic components. It has worked for me in the past, but not on this project unfortunately.
JD
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Since you are going to replace it anyway just cut it off with a grinder in a Dremel
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It's really not on there that tight, I've never found it necessary to heat or cool anything.
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Kiwi_Roy method on Hayabusa
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qj30QIJVc00
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Kiwi_Roy method on Hayabusa
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qj30QIJVc00
What a great Video :thumb:
I like the detailed information he gives.
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Different type of bearing. The bearings on a G5 are tapered rollers, so you'd need to cut away the cage, remove the rollers and then cut the inner race.
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My triple tube was also very tight on the inner races. I didn't use a bearing remover Charlie is suggesting to get to that lower one as I couldn't find one locally that wasn't huge, so I carefully cut a vertical slit about half way deep with a dremmel cutting disk, then I hit the slit with a flat-blade screwdriver and hammer; the lower race cracked open surprisingly easily at that stage (fragile type metal treatment). Next time I'd get/use the correct puller.
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Maybe rust affects matters. Groover's solution seems like a good one if you don't have the correct size of bearing splitter...
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Guys, if you are talking about the RACE and not the bearing, the race is in the neck of the frame and not on the lower fork clamp.
Assuming that - I usually take a mig welder and run a bead around the old race. The heat shrinks the race and it will fall right out.
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Guess I'm an ogre. Have always tapped it out with a drift of some sort...
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Guess I'm an ogre. Have always tapped it out with a drift of some sort...
Seems to me you don't want to broach the surface of the shafting comprising the "axle" of the triple clamp... so cutting to 3/4's or 7/8th thru and shattering ot with an appropriately tapered chisel will minimize this effect.
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^I believe he's referring to the outer race in the frame , not the inner race on the fork stem .
But we haven't heard back from JayDee24ca concerning this issue . Peter
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^I believe he's referring to the outer race in the frame , not the inner race on the fork stem .
But we haven't heard back from JayDee24ca concerning this issue . Peter
I am having a heck of a time getting the lower inner race off the steering stem, short of cutting it off.
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Yes he did say INNER race so I think Charlie’s idea on the bearing splitter seems reasonable. Sorry I injected a left turn!
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I went to Lordco this morning with the intention of buying an el-cheapo splitter, but all they had was one for a hundred bucks. So I zipped the race off with a dremel in about 5 minutes. Made a slit, and used a small cold chisel to whack the slit open, hey presto. I had removed the outer cage and the rollers yesterday with a set of sidecutters, so all that was left was the inner race, sitting flush to the spacer at the bottom of the steering neck, against the lower triple clamp.
I think this must be what I did a few years back on the Eldo, wish I could remember.
Thanks all.
JD
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In the video GRGuzzi posted the mechanic makes a convincing argument for not using heat and cold for installing the new bearings, he upgraded the bike from ball race to tapered rollers.
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Guys, if you are talking about the RACE and not the bearing, the race is in the neck of the frame and not on the lower fork clamp.
Assuming that - I usually take a mig welder and run a bead around the old race. The heat shrinks the race and it will fall right out.
Seems to me you don't want to broach the surface of the shafting comprising the "axle" of the triple clamp... so cutting to 3/4's or 7/8th thru and shattering ot with an appropriately tapered chisel will minimize this effect.
I'm aware that the original poster was making reference to the bearing on the steering stem ( as my earlier post described ).
The reference I was making was bringing it to the attention of "cdn850t5nt". He was speaking of "furbo's " remark about driving
a bearing "out "with a drift . It's all done now , just wanted to make sure that I knew of what the original poster was speaking of .
regards Peter