Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: SmithSwede on March 22, 2020, 03:38:03 PM
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Yeah, I know getting to 100,000 miles is no big deal to a lot of you salty, crusty old road dogs. But I personally have never liked a bike enough to ride it this long. Until I got a Guzzi.
This is a 2013 V7 Stone. My wife bought it in secret from Mike Haven at MPH, and Mike personally
(https://i.ibb.co/NsR4T77/D05-BF1-A9-1325-4-BA1-9-DAF-98-DA94-D713-D0.jpg) (https://ibb.co/NsR4T77)
(https://i.ibb.co/0ZnjjQ1/D991-F415-8-C56-4660-8-A77-23-AAE68-C0169.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0ZnjjQ1)
(https://i.ibb.co/10w4G9D/47-AA97-FC-47-CD-4442-9-FC0-B2-AC19-B28-F4-C.jpg) (https://ibb.co/10w4G9D)
delivered it to my house as a surprise Christmas present in December 2013.
Now I’m at 100,000 miles.
Guess it’s broken in now.
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Dude , you can't ride a motorcycle that far :shocked:
Dusty
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This is a 2013 V7 Stone. My wife bought it in secret from Mike Haven at MPH, and Mike personally delivered it to my house as a surprise Christmas present in December 2013.
Now I’m at 100,000 miles.
Guess it’s broken in now.
Wow. Good for you !
:bike-037: :bike-037: :bike-037:
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congrats.
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Sure as hell can't tour on a small block, not enough power!
Congrats.
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100K miles on a bike that can't tour! :wink: That must have been a lot of trips to the pub!
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Did this happen on the to Houston on Friday , or on the way home ? How much rainwater did you swallow , how many miles on the tires , what oil are you running ? Come on man , we want details !
Dusty
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Congratulations. That's putting on the miles! You averaged over 16,000 miles a year since you bought the bike. :thumb:
Bob
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Well done SS, I can only dream of putting 16000 miles a season on the clock. May another 100,000 happy miles await you! :bow:
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That's fantastic!
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Rock on!
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Congratulations. That's putting on the miles! You averaged over 16,000 miles a year since you bought the bike. :thumb:
Bob
Bob. I’m a sick man. Ask Dusty. I only averaged 16K on the Guzzi because of all the other bikes I was riding.
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Congrats, bike looks almost new! If it wasn't for the reliability issues, I would buy one myself. Oh wait, I did buy one.
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Congrats, bike looks almost new! If it wasn't for the reliability issues, I would buy one myself. Oh wait, I did buy one.
Apparently they do need to take a sabbatical at a little over 80K miles .
Dusty
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Good one Esquire!! Quite a milestone!
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Bob. I’m a sick man. Ask Dusty. I only averaged 16K on the Guzzi because of all the other bikes I was riding.
You're only slightly more sick than I am. For years, my average across 2 bikes was about the same as your one bike mileage .... about 16k a year. Dusty isn't the right guy to ask. He'd think its perfectly normal behavior. So do I!
Bob
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Yeah, I know getting to 100,000 miles is no big deal to a lot of you salty, crusty old road dogs. But I personally have never liked a bike enough to ride it this long. Until I got a Guzzi.
This is a 2013 V7 Stone. My wife bought it in secret from Mike Haven at MPH, and Mike personally
(https://i.ibb.co/NsR4T77/D05-BF1-A9-1325-4-BA1-9-DAF-98-DA94-D713-D0.jpg) (https://ibb.co/NsR4T77)
(https://i.ibb.co/0ZnjjQ1/D991-F415-8-C56-4660-8-A77-23-AAE68-C0169.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0ZnjjQ1)
(https://i.ibb.co/10w4G9D/47-AA97-FC-47-CD-4442-9-FC0-B2-AC19-B28-F4-C.jpg) (https://ibb.co/10w4G9D)
delivered it to my house as a surprise Christmas present in December 2013.
Now I’m at 100,000 miles.
Guess it’s broken in now.
Cool, and congrats! I think I passed 500 miles on mine this afternoon . . .
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Did you have any major repairs and when did the first ones happen? Have you changed the fuel filter more than once? I’m embarrassed to say how low the miles are on my 2013. I guess I should stop babying it.
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Congratulations! You are HOTD! Hero Of The Day!
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:thumb: :thumb:
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Ahh, everybody knows them little small blocks ain't worth nuthin.. :grin:
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Congrats. Do Beaver and I need to make you a cowboy hat?
Tex
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Very well done. And welcome to the club. It only goes to show that, in spite of what some people think, the V7's are proper Guzzi. You're really going to show them once you retire & can pick up the pace. You do know that you only have another 100,000 on that odometer, don't you?
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Well done Prescott, both the V7 and you! :thumb: :thumb:
Makes me wonder why I got such a lemon run with the gearbox in my Breva. :undecided:
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Great milestone for a bike. Will be curious to see how many miles you can rack up before any major engine or tranny issues. Keep us informed.
GliderJohn
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I too would like more info about what problems you've encountered and what you have replaced.im only curios because I'm a happy owner of of 2016 v7, please enlighten me, and congrats on your milestone.
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Since several have asked about maintenance and service issues, here goes. Probably TMI, but for thems what curious, here goes. If I didn’t answer your question, PM me.
Background. This is a blue collar bike who works for a living. I don’t abuse it, but it gets ridden rain or shine, hot or cold, day in day out. Contrary to what some people say, I regularly tour on it, and routinely run it at an indicated 80-90 mph for hours on end. It is not pampered.
I’m a big believer in letting a cold bike warm up. I start it and let it idle for several minutes while I gear up. I then ride very gently for 3 to 5 miles, slowly opening up more throttle. But once I’m convinced it is at normal operating temps, I run it pretty hard. I don’t “bang” on it. I try to be super smooth on gear shifts and throttle/brake manipulation. But other than that, I typically ride it in a spirited but smooth manner. WOT throttle is a fairly regular occurrence.
Spark Plug caps and wires. This was my ***biggest single problem*** until me and others more talented finally figured it out. Vexed me from day one. I was stranded several times and took the Ride of Shame in a tow truck to home or a dealer.
I got check engine lights. Fouled plugs. Carbon tracks. Missing under high speed load conditions. Replaced the ECU under warranty. Cleaned throttle bodies, tightened all exhaust clamps, cleaned injectors, changed coils and wires, sacrificed goats, etc. Drove me nuts! Nearly sold the bike over this issue. On Dusty’s advice, I did buy a brand new Triumph in desperation as a potential replacement (which turned out to be a mistake in retrospect, but I submit an understandable overreaction and not really something to blame Dusty for).
I’m now convinced the root cause was simply the crappy OEM black rubber spark plug boots. Turns out the OEM boots are fabricated from fermented turds sourced from the Devil himself with little specs of moldy corn flakes therein.
I finally replaced the devil crap rubber boots with the phenolic NGK caps (NGK XD05F) and the associated plugs for those caps (NGK CPR 8EA). And used silicone sealant to waterproof the wire going into the cap, since it’s a direct shot (no rain loop) to the plugs, and thus rain water drains directly into the cap. No more problems since these mods.
Nevertheless, I’m still a bit suspicious about the ignition system generally. I now always carry a small bottle of WD40 because if the bike sits outdoors for days in heavy, windy rain, a plug can drop. And I always carry at least 4 extra spark plugs due to a bad experience at Wooloroc, Oklahoma that my Guzzi compadres will never let me forget. And I carry two extra NGK spark plug caps. At 90K miles I suddenly had a spring break inside a nearly new NGK cap which caused the left cylinder to drop on starting the engine. No big deal because I had a spare cap in my saddle bag.
Clutch. My first clutch wore out at 64K miles. Clutch was slipping at high speed and there would be Exxon Valdez levels of trans oil leaking from the bell housing when I parked. Turned out the clutch was worn past the service limit, had oil on it, and one of the metal “fingers” was fractured.
The input bearing to the transmission was also toast. (P/N 92201225). I had been getting a lot of swarf on transmission drain plug, so the warning signs were there. I’m now pretty sure the failed bearing caused the trans input shaft to wobble, causing trans oil to leak to the clutch because the seals could not contain the oil. A Guzzi guru told me this input bearing is a weak link. But maybe I just had a bad bearing.
I’m again ready for another clutch at 100K mi. This time I suspect engine oil contamination from the rear crankshaft seal. I will now change the transmission input bearing as a matter of course when in there for a clutch. Along with all clutch pushrod seals and the rear engine crank seal. Might as well.
Exhaust. At 45K mi, the cross over pipe going into the right side exhaust header cracked off. Engine sound suddenly got really loud. WTH? A local welder welded it back together at no charge—�and no problems since. I suspect I may not have positioned the exhaust system correctly to relax tension when assembled and heated up. Or maybe it was an infant mortality and not my fault. Nevertheless, I now take a lot of care to make sure everything on the exhaust “hangs” well with no excess tension or strain upon reassembly. I’ll even ride it 20 miles or so with moderately torqued fasteners, then snug it up after that warming/vibration cycle gets things centered.
Crank Position Sensor. I’ve replaced several. Then I got stranded at the airport at about 80K miles and my usual solution of replacing the supposedly “bad” CPS didn’t definitively solve the problem. I’m now convinced the problem all along was a suboptimal connector between the CPS and the ECU.
These are 2 wire inductive sensors. The third wire is just a ground/shield; this is not a Hall sensor. Dead simple. My former “bad” sensors Ohm out normal. The last problem was solved by mechanically scrubbing the connector and flooding it with EZ Oxit and waiting 6 weeks!
Lack of CPS signal is easy to diagnose. Engine cranks for only a second or two, then stops. No spark. No fuel.
If it happens again I’m going to hard wire the circuit and just eliminate the plug in connector. It’s not easy or convenient to get to anyway.
Engine temp sensor. At 46K, the engine starting running really rich, and gas mileage dropped to low 30 mpg (normally 42 to 45 mpg with my heavy body, heavy throttle hand, and 30L saddle bags). Traced to a loose connector on the engine temperature sensor. Tighten and sealed this connector and snugged down the sensor firmly. No more problems since. But I do have a spare temp sensor waiting just in case.
Engine Oil. I’ve only used AGIP 10W-60 per the manual, despite a strong hunch that this is total overkill for the little two valve 750 and is a spec meant more for mechanical beasts like the 4 valve Griso. I suspect any good synthetic 10W-40 or 20W-50 would be fine for a 750. But that’s not what the Good Book sayeth.
I’ve usually changed the oil at 6,000 miles, but I don’t hesitate to run to 7,000 or 8,000 miles if I’m too busy to change it.
UNI oil filters every other oil change.
Don’t overfill the oil or it blows into the air box. Mine likes the oil level at the LOW mark when the engine is cold. When the engine is hot the level is a bit less than midway between the MIN and MAX marks.
When newer, it used to burn maybe 100cc per 1,000 miles. Now it’s more like 150-200cc per 1,000 mi. I now have oil misting externally from something which I think accounts for the difference. The engine is not burning oil.
FWIW, I’ll mention that I used to get a small smudge of swarf on the magnetic engine oil drain plug. After 65 to 70K miles, I’m not getting any swarf. Go figure. Finally broken in?
The O-rings for the dipstick get flattened and hard very quickly. Maybe 6 months/10K miles. I bought a big stash of these O rings and replace them regularly whenever they start letting oil mist out in that area.
Valves. Previously, at least one valve would tighten up about 0.001” every 6K miles, usually the left cylinder exhaust, but sometimes another. But for whatever reason, after 65 to 70k, they haven’t moved. I’m now only checking them every 10-12K mi.
Fuel filter. I replaced it with a metal one at 49k because I got nervous about the half plastic/half metal one. But I admit the OEM filter had not failed, and it looked ok to me. Not grossly swollen.
Final drive. After lots of riding in heavy rain, I would sometimes drain the FD oil and it would come out milky brown green water contaminated. So I silicone sealed the rubber boot on the swing arm, which solved the problem.
I run 200cc oil. Use a horse syringe to add the FD oil, and heat it in hot water beforehand to make the process faster and cleaner. If you use more than 200 cc, on a hot day after high speed riding, it will spit the excess out.
Blow out the vent cap on the top each time you change the oil. Mine got plugged once with mud, causing the FD seal to (temporarily) leak.
Some say only run Dino Oil in the FD or it will leak. I’ve always run synthetic, and no leaks. I’m using Mobil 1 75-140 synthetic; sometimes AGIP if I have it.
Transmission. No issues whatsoever, other than the input bearing I mentioned. I run AGIP 80W-90 or Mobil 1 75W-90, changed every 12K mi or so. I love the way this old fashioned “long throw” transmission with a dry clutch can shift once you get used to it. Dead smooth.
Driveshaft. At 85K, I had a complete failure of the “mushroom” head of the drive shaft and the related couplings. (Part numbers 23328081, 31327783, and 19328891). Bike felt “grindy” when taking off from a stop. When I went to grease the splines, there were molten pellets of black stuff all inside the drive shaft tunnel of the swingarm, like molten plastic. Burnt grease? I had to separate these components with a mallet. Splines on the failed components were worn to a knife edge along the outer half of the travel. Oddly enough, they seemed fine 10K miles earlier when I last changed the rear tire and greased the splines. Did I finally bust through a tough but thin layer of case hardening and the softer metal beneath wore rapidly? Fortunately, the output spline from the transmission, and the input spline to the final drive, looked perfect. So I replaced the drive shaft/U-joint and couplings with new parts (about $300, not too bad—probably still better than chains and sprockets).
Some say the small block drive shaft just wears out at about this stage of life. Others told me that I should have been cleaning off all the old metal contaminated spline grease and scrubbing the splines down to clean bare metal before adding fresh grease, instead of my prior technique of just slathering fresh grease on top of the nasty old grease.
I’m now cleaning them back to bare metal each tire change. Using Guard Dog 525 moly spline grease. We’ll see if it fails again after 80K or lasts longer with this different greasing protocol.
Speedometer sensor (located on rear tire next to rear brake caliper). Around 20K, it stopped working after riding in much rain for days. I dried it with a hairdryer and it came back. Silicone sealed. No further problems.
Gauges. No real issues. They fog up sometimes in colder weather with lots of rain. Ignore until summer. Or hit them with blow dryer. I often cover them with a plastic shopping bag if I know they will be outdoors and exposed to lots of rain.
Brakes. No issues. Pads last 35 to 50K. Original discs.
Batteries. I’m paranoid about batteries and replace them every two years or so just to be safe. I depend on this bike for work. So it needs to work.
Alternator/Regulator. Mine has always read “too high” at about 15.2 volt at higher revs. Haven’t bothered to rectify this problem.
Screws, bolts and connectors. It took me a while to figure this out, but practically everything on this bike will loosen with vibration and mileage. The solo screw that holds the shift linkage to the shifter. Brake disc caliper bolts. Passenger footrest bracket bolts. Intake boot clamps. Mirror stalks. Etc. etc. I now make it a habit to snug up everything when I change the oil. And if I remove something, it automatically gets the blue Locktite upon re-assembly.
Air filter. My theory is people change these way too often. I replace mine every 30K miles. Or longer.
1 headlight bulb at 60,000
2 tail light bulbs. Turns out water could not drain from the little silver housing. Drilled small drain hole. No further problem.
Cables and levers are all original. But I do pack a new clutch cable with me on longer trips.
Steering head bearings are fine. I did re-grease them at 30K with BelRay waterproof grease.
Haven’t touched wheel bearings.
Replaced the fork gaiters at 40K with higher quality rubber one meant for a Triumph.
Changed fork oil at 50K. It was nasty black and smelled like the Seattle fish market in late summer. Salmon oil?
Changed rear shocks at about 40K with much better IKONs.
I’ve had no issues whatsoever with any kind of overheating, despite many urban summer traffic jams and routine high speed running throughout Texas and the American South. And I’ve had zero problems with radiators, thermostats, hoses, belts or cooling fans—�because the thing is air cooled the way the gods of engineering intended honest engines to be.
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Great info for those of us with lower mileage. Thanks!
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Good info. Thanks for putting that together for us.
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Thanks Swede. I really appreciate all the helpful info !!
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That is quite the tome!!! Thanks for all that typing!
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Thank you, thank you, SmithSwede! This thread goes to favorites, and I'll print myself a copy of your service history and maintenance tips. Does my '08 model have turds for spark plug boots, too?
Sarah
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Thank you
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Congratulations. Swede
I agree with the engineering Gods about Air Cooled , it just don't seem right any other way !
Mine is a 2016 so maybe the factory had figured out the spark-plug wires by that time. There is a clutch rattle at idle w/clutch out that is a little worrisome . I can pull the clutch lever and it stops the rattle , but that might just be "The Nature of the Beast" ?
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Spark Plug caps and wires. This was my ***biggest single problem*** until me and others more talented finally figured it out. Vexed me from day one. I was stranded several times and took the Ride of Shame in a tow truck to home or a dealer.
I got check engine lights. Fouled plugs. Carbon tracks. Missing under high speed load conditions. Replaced the ECU under warranty. Cleaned throttle bodies, tightened all exhaust clamps, cleaned injectors, changed coils and wires, sacrificed goats, etc. Drove me nuts! Nearly sold the bike over this issue. On Dusty’s advice, I did buy a brand new Triumph in desperation as a potential replacement (which turned out to be a mistake in retrospect, but I submit an understandable overreaction and not really something to blame Dusty for).
I’m now convinced the root cause was simply the crappy OEM black rubber spark plug boots. Turns out the OEM boots are fabricated from fermented turds sourced from the Devil himself with little specs of moldy corn flakes therein.
I finally replaced the devil crap rubber boots with the phenolic NGK caps (NGK XD05F) and the associated plugs for those caps (NGK CPR 8EA). And used silicone sealant to waterproof the wire going into the cap, since it’s a direct shot (no rain loop) to the plugs, and thus rain water drains directly into the cap. No more problems since these mods.
Nevertheless, I’m still a bit suspicious about the ignition system generally. I now always carry a small bottle of WD40 because if the bike sits outdoors for days in heavy, windy rain, a plug can drop. And I always carry at least 4 extra spark plugs due to a bad experience at Woolaroc, Oklahoma that my Guzzi compadres will never let me forget. And I carry two extra NGK spark plug caps. At 90K miles I suddenly had a spring break inside a nearly new NGK cap which caused the left cylinder to drop on starting the engine. No big deal because I had a spare cap in my saddle bag.
I should have bought an extra set of spark plugs in Bartlesville when this unfortunate event happened at Woolaroc to stash in the Norge cubby for the next time we ride to Cedar Vale! Turn it downhill, will start better!
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Thank you, thank you, SmithSwede! This thread goes to favorites, and I'll print myself a copy of your service history and maintenance tips. Does my '08 model have turds for spark plug boots, too?
Sarah
In my experience, not as bad as the 1TB bikes, but '08 is getting long in the tooth, and it would be good to have a spare set on hand. I've replaced mine with prettier maroon ones, and the really pretty red ones are available from NGK Racing. It's worthwhile, too, screwing the caps off the HT leads and checking for corrosion & other such impediments. Easy enough to snip off an end so you get bright copper & screw the caps back on.
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Congratulations. Swede
I agree with the engineering Gods about Air Cooled , it just don't seem right any other way !
Mine is a 2016 so maybe the factory had figured out the spark-plug wires by that time. There is a clutch rattle at idle w/clutch out that is a little worrisome . I can pull the clutch lever and it stops the rattle , but that might just be "The Nature of the Beast" ?
2016? - I don't believe they did any such thing (that would be way out of character), although I'm prepared to be corrected on this.
The clutch is dry, so that rattle is normal. Apparently, according to some of the reading I've digested, there may come a stage where the rattle is excessive & is a symptom of something wrong. Hasn't happened to my bikes yet, so I'm not worrying.
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Agreed--don't worry about the dry clutch rattle on the Guzzi. That's normal.
Now that I've got a Ducati 900SS, I no longer notice that the Guzzi even has a clutch rattle. Maybe the Duck clutch has rendered me deaf.
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Could someone explain to me why some motorcycle dry clutches are excused for being noisy, simply because they are 'dry,' when cars have used dry plate clutches for years and don't exhibit this characteristic? I realize some of the Ducati models use multi-plate dry clutches with exposed clutch baskets, so I'll give them a pass. I don't recall any of my K bikes exhibiting clutch rattling. The old R100GS does make some noise. Since day one, my 1200 Sport clutch makes a variety of different noises depending on whether it is cold or hot, engaged or disengaged in neutral. Just curious.
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Congrats Swede,
I only achieved that mileage on one of the bikes - my 88 R100RS.
Hoping to do it on my V7 someday.
Well done!!
Don
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Agreed--don't worry about the dry clutch rattle on the Guzzi. That's normal.
Now that I've got a Ducati 900SS, I no longer notice that the Guzzi even has a clutch rattle. Maybe the Duck clutch has rendered me deaf.
All in the universe is relative. :grin:
GliderJohn
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Could someone explain to me why some motorcycle dry clutches are excused for being noisy, simply because they are 'dry,' when cars have used dry plate clutches for years and don't exhibit this characteristic? I realize some of the Ducati models use multi-plate dry clutches with exposed clutch baskets, so I'll give them a pass. I don't recall any of my K bikes exhibiting clutch rattling. The old R100GS does make some noise. Since day one, my 1200 Sport clutch makes a variety of different noises depending on whether it is cold or hot, engaged or disengaged in neutral. Just curious.
Normally a single plate clutch will be fairly quiet , dual plate clutches are noisy .
Dusty
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Normally a single plate clutch will be fairly quiet , dual plate clutches are noisy .
Dusty
Yeah, Dusty. The single plate in my R100GS is relatively quiet compared to the 1200 Sport. However, I 'think' I recall that the single plate clutch in my Griso was also rattley, just not as much as the Sport. Hey, I hardly remember what I had for breakfast, so if I'm wrong about the Griso clutch, please correct me. I'm thinking all the clatter may be more of a situation caused by the uneven firing cadence of twin cylinder engines that causes a 'speed up/slow down' to the crankshaft at idle that causes much of the noise, by accelerating/decelerating the rotating clutch parts. Just hypothetical ..... (??)
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2016? - I don't believe they did any such thing (that would be way out of character), although I'm prepared to be corrected on this.
I don't really know about the spark plug caps on the 2016's, but I can say this.
I asked my dealer (who I considered trustworthy, though now closed) if I should replace them when I bought the bike, having read about the issues others had. They said there was not an issue on the 2016s. After 12,000 miles, I haven't had any issues. The bike always runs great. So, MAYBE Guzzi did address this issue.
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I changed mine principally because the original plugs had a solid post, with the cap to fit, and I could never be sure that they mated properly. With the change, the plugs have the threaded post that makes a noise when it goes on, just like I'm used to. Just happier about that. (Signed: old fart).
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Could someone explain to me why some motorcycle dry clutches are excused for being noisy, simply because they are 'dry,'
Pete Roper said that most of the noise is from the input shaft. Because of the uneven firing order it makes the teeth rattle together; pull the clutch in and it goes quiet because the power strokes are not being transmitted to the shaft.
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In my experience, not as bad as the 1TB bikes, but '08 is getting long in the tooth, and it would be good to have a spare set on hand. I've replaced mine with prettier maroon ones, and the really pretty red ones are available from NGK Racing. It's worthwhile, too, screwing the caps off the HT leads and checking for corrosion & other such impediments. Easy enough to snip off an end so you get bright copper & screw the caps back on.
Thanks, Malik! Now you've got me wondering about the various colors I might consider, hmmm.
Sarah
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Congratulations, you are exploring uncharted territory :bow:
https://i.ibb.co/d6f007X/D991-F415-8-C56-4660-8-A77-23-AAE68-C0169.jpg
Thats interesting, I thought it would start again at 0 like my California II did, will it go to 199,999 do you think, I assume by now the least significant figures are filling up.
After that 200,0XX or 000,0XX
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How many Texas bugs gave were sacrificed to make this milestone?
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Congratulations, you are exploring uncharted territory :bow:
https://i.ibb.co/d6f007X/D991-F415-8-C56-4660-8-A77-23-AAE68-C0169.jpg
Thats interesting, I thought it would start again at 0 like my California II did, will it go to 199,999 do you think, I assume by now the least significant figures are filling up.
After that 200,0XX or 000,0XX
(https://i.ibb.co/PjyYtn2/image.jpg) (https://ibb.co/PjyYtn2)
(https://i.ibb.co/Qvzd0KM/image.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Qvzd0KM)
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Well that just pisses me off every way from Tuesday. Somebody should be shot for that.
Can anyone conceive of any rational reason to create a digital odometer like this? 199,999 is already permitted. Why not let it roll to 300,000? Or what's wrong with 999,999? It's digital. And it already has six positions.
I could maybe see this with a old fashioned mechanical odometer---you might want to limit it to 5 gears, and 99,999 miles, to avoid using a sixth gear.
Heck, it gets even worse when you think about it. With a 5 gear mechanical odometer, you could still track mileage accurately regardless of the 5 gear limit. Just remember how many times you have "rolled" the odometer around, and each mile is still accurately counted regardless.
With this asinine system, the odometer just completely fails to function after 199,999. It doesn't go back to zero and start counting again. It just stops working completely.
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Smith - I love the fact that you've driven a small block the equivalent of 4 times around the Earth. Congrats!
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Agreed. Signs of serious incompetence at work. At least the trip meter still works, and the MAINT legend still appears every 7,500 km. Small mercies.
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Just checked the V7 III Owners Manual - which says the speedo comes in either Miles OR Kilometers, and the odometer goes as far as 999,999 before it stop working. It cannot be re-set.
So, that's something. Although I doubt that this could be retrofitted .
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Thanks for the info thats great news I have a friend who just hit 100,000 on is 2015 1400 I hope my V7-3 and 8V Norge can make to 100,000
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good going Prescot. Ride and maintain it, they'll go forever.
I'm also one of those guys that starts the bike to let it warm up.
Perhaps for a different reason. I like to start it and get my gear on. I hate to get overheated in my helmet when the bike wont start. :sad:
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Bob. I’m a sick man. Ask Dusty. I only averaged 16K on the Guzzi because of all the other bikes I was riding.
:thumb:
That is quite an accomplishment. The most I have put on one bike is 60,000 miles. 30,000 tends to be my limit before looking for something else finds its way into the stable.
What handlebars are you running on that bike? They look more turned down than stock.
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Swede,
I give you credit! I don't post here as often as I used to, because work stopped allowing social media on work computers, but that accomplishment is too good to go unnoticed.
Joe
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Hats off! :thumb:
Well done! :grin:
Carry on! :bike-037:
inditx
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I warm up the Norge for a couple of minutes because it will die on me if I don't.
That IS alot of miles (it averages 16,666.66 every year). Good for you.
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I warm up the Norge for a couple of minutes because it will die on me if I don't.
That IS alot of miles (it averages 16,666.66 every year). Good for you.
That's odd...what RPM does it idle at when it's warmed up? Norges typically fire right up and idle high for about 20 seconds and then settle in to the standard RMP idle rate.
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:thumb:
What handlebars are you running on that bike? They look more turned down than stock.
Those are Norman Hyde “M” bars. Totally transformed the bike by permitting me to lean forward into the wind the way I prefer.
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My Stornello Mk2 rattles with clutch out in neutral. Having oil pumped around GB rather than splash might accentuate the input shaft rattle. My Breva 750 was definitely quiet in neutral maybe the 1 litre oil bath helps .
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That's odd...what RPM does it idle at when it's warmed up? Norges typically fire right up and idle high for about 20 seconds and then settle in to the standard RMP idle rate.
Very different set-up from a Norge. The 2TB CARC motors seem to have much more robust ECM programming and idle stepper motor so they are ride away stable very quickly. The 1TB smallblocks use a more basic ECM/throttle body assembly with multiple integrated sensors and an idle circuit that cannot fully compensate for temperature or pressure variations during warm-up. Pete suggested over the years that it might be using timing to partly control the idle circuit. Whatever it is SOMETIMES the ECM will hunt wildly for idle speed in the first few minutes of operation (for my MKI model at least). Once it is warmed it likely never does it again that day, but jebus it is downright dangerous if you try to pull away too soon after a real cold start.
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Very different set-up from a Norge. The 2TB CARC motors seem to have much more robust ECM programming and idle stepper motor so they are ride away stable very quickly. The 1TB smallblocks use a more basic ECM/throttle body assembly with multiple integrated sensors and an idle circuit that cannot fully compensate for temperature or pressure variations during warm-up. Pete suggested over the years that it might be using timing to partly control the idle circuit. Whatever it is SOMETIMES the ECM will hunt wildly for idle speed in the first few minutes of operation (for my MKI model at least). Once it is warmed it likely never does it again that day, but jebus it is downright dangerous if you try to pull away too soon after a real cold start.
Thanks Kevin..my question was about Scott's Norge he mentions above that dies on him if he doesn't warm it up....not Small block question.
:laugh: :laugh:
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Thanks Kevin..my question was about Scott's Norge he mentions above that dies on him if he doesn't warm it up....not Small block question.
:laugh: :laugh:
:embarrassed: :embarrassed: :embarrassed:
Oopppsss, my bad.
Yeah, that is odd.
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SmithSwede: Only at 40k miles on my V7 II and great to know I will be able to enjoy it for many more miles (based on your experience). Thanks a lot for for putting together such detailed info on your bike's history.
Looking forward to hearing about other milestones with your bike. Cheers.
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Yes..!
That post #26 is a somewhat definitive document of how to operate a small block long term.... :thumb:
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I warm up the Norge for a couple of minutes because it will die on me if I don't.
There are three fundamental reasons for that.
It’ll probably be the stepper motor, or could even be the stepper motor, but I’m betting it will be the stepper motor.