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General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: fatbob on March 23, 2020, 10:49:34 PM
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If your Norge windscreen seems “floppier” than it used to be, you may have the same problem I had. The center vertical tube was snapped right above the “T” weld. Easy to remove the subframe for professional welding. It’s also easy to add a stiffener on 2 sides of the tube. Sorry I didn’t think to take photos before re-assembly. My ‘07 Norge has 60K and my favorite roads are sorta rough I guess.
Ciao
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Mine did EXACTLY the same thing early on.
Also ‘07 Norge.
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Huzo has your repair held ok? I directed the fabricator who repaired mine to add 1/8” plate stiffeners above and below the break.
Ours was the first year of the Norge. Common to have teething problems.
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Huzo has your repair held ok? I directed the fabricator who repaired mine to add 1/8” plate stiffeners above and below the break.
Ours was the first year of the Norge. Common to have teething problems.
Yeah mate.
Mine let go at the point where the diagonal joined the mount..(not surprisingly).
No drama at all. It now has a gusset wrapped around the diagonal and TIG welded, which puts the gusset into tension and not bending.
Don’t for heaven’s sake use a MIG, you won’t get the penetration.
Mine as I mentioned is TIG’ed and as solid as a brick shithouse.
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Here’s a photo of the repaired subframe. The triangular stiffeners are welded each side of the break.
(https://i.ibb.co/g7z9j5x/CCB9-F2-F6-2-B61-487-A-B180-82891-EDC78-AB.jpg) (https://ibb.co/g7z9j5x)
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My 2000 BMW R1100 RS had a very similar sub frame break, at about 60,000 miles.
The metal broke at the T, which appears to carry the weight of the upper fairing and components. Had a local welder add some buttressing across break, and it has held up for 20,000 plus miles.