Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: bigpants on May 27, 2020, 12:26:19 PM
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Hey everyone. Had some issues today with the electrics on my sporti and eventually ended up with a fuel pump that wouldn't stop priming. I changed the relays and even the ECU and it made no difference. I checked all the relevant wires for continuity and power. But the last thing I did was to disconnect the lithium battery and then reconnect earth terminal first ( it's instructions say positive terminal first) . Now all seems to work fine - I think. Does this sound about right ?
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I doubt it's the battery its simply a power source that is designed to be used in vehicles. What is far more likely IMO is you've cleaned a connection with your fault finding and reset the ecu by disconnecting and reconnecting the battery.
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What Murray said. Not the battery.
Wait...you would've had to pull the main fuses or disconnect the battery to replace the ECU. Are you saying the pump kept priming during these replacements?
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First all the relays seemed dead but the parking lights worked. I played around with relays , wires , fuses , earths and had to remove battery and relays came back but pump wouldn't stop priming. I then removed battery again and changed the ECU but no change. I spent the day going over everything but found nothing then the last thing I did was remove and refit battery again and now it looks like it's gonna work. I'll start it up this morning if I can and take it for a spin.
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Agree with the others
The only thing worth checking is the voltage when charging, to make sure the Reg/Rec is good. LiFe batteries have a lower internal resistance, so might cause problems with the Reg/Rec but apart from that it should be fine
I once had a similar thing with a Sporti when I couldn't get the pump to prime and found the relay wasn't coming in. Everything was good, but I disconnected and reconected all the spades from the fusebox to the relays. Relay then pulled in and since then its worked ever since, probably just abit of oxidation somewhere
Go Ride
John
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Yes I think I can confirm what everyone said about the battery not being relevant. Went out this morning and with the bike somewhat apart everything seemed fixed. I've got a small 12v light in place of the pump so I can test with the tank off and it went through its prime procedure fine . Put the bike back together and it's back to constant priming. So I'm guessing it's a dodgy wire/connection somewhere.
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Latest results. It seems that if the pump won't stop all I have to do is swap around the relays and it comes back to normal. Then a while later it'll be back to pump stuck , switch around relays again and it's good to go. So to me this suggests it's probably a bad connection somewhere in the relay board getting jiggled back to life . I am now a bit lost with all my old relays and would like to get 4 new ones just so at least that area is ruled out. Does anyone know if there are good value options available on eBay or indeed what I need to look for ?
Ta
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there is a guy on this board that sells good relays reasonably. hopefully someone will give up his info soon.
smartest thing to do on any older Guzzi is remove the battery and clean the terminals there and at the engine main ground. while disconnected pull the fuses and spray everything with deoxit. check them closely they might be disintegrated then do the same for the relay holder but smash the crap out of them and replace with all new 5 prong ones.
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Latest results. It seems that if the pump won't stop all I have to do is swap around the relays and it comes back to normal. Then a while later it'll be back to pump stuck , switch around relays again and it's good to go. So to me this suggests it's probably a bad connection somewhere in the relay board getting jiggled back to life . I am now a bit lost with all my old relays and would like to get 4 new ones just so at least that area is ruled out. Does anyone know if there are good value options available on eBay or indeed what I need to look for ?
Ta
You said Sporti right? I believe these are the same relays.
http://dpguzzi.com/
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Thinking about the relays it could be that your problem is right there
It's quite well documented that the standard relays aren't really up to the job. The standard relays are rated at 20A I think and with the power relay it has to carry the load of coils, injectors and fuel pump. Although I've never tried it myself I'm told that the relay gets very hot. Could be the relay(s) is/are overheating and sticking (possibly?)
The recommended upgrade is to go to Omron G8HE, long thread on the V11 forum about them, unfortunately no longer available, but still can be sourced with a bit of looking especially in the US. Their NO contacts, which is the important one are rated at 35A
https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19755-best-relay/ (https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19755-best-relay/)
Found this if it helps
https://www.todaycomponents.com/omron-g8he-1c7t-r-dc12-relay.html (https://www.todaycomponents.com/omron-g8he-1c7t-r-dc12-relay.html)
Don't know about the relay Wayne posted
John
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There is an old instruction sheet from Kiwi Roy on this matter from Feb 2011 titled "Relay Base Repair". Designed for the V11, probably sourced on the V11 Lemans forum. It will likely help. Can't hurt.
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Big thanks to everyone for their help with this. Looks like I've got a bit of reading and shopping to do .
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Pressure regulator stuck open?
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Was browsing the V11 forum
Link to the Relay base repair thread
https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/20534-relay-base-repair/ (https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/20534-relay-base-repair/)
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Pressure regulator stuck open?
The regulator has nothing to do with the pump running or not.