Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Roebling3 on May 29, 2020, 11:43:16 AM
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2017 V7 III, Racer version. 7k+ miles.
I strive for near total reliability in cars, trucks & motorcycles. B4 delivery I had the fuel filter replaced w/the all metal version - Spark plug caps replaced w/NGK's - Wire wheels swapped for cast wheels. Other changes eliminated its cosmetic distress.
Last Tuesday, 2/3 through a favorite multi state loop I began to pull away from a stop sign. The bike only juddered. The engine stopped. It was like a big single 2 stroke caught in the wrong part of the upward stroke, deciding to run in reverse. It fired right up. Off we went for ~30 miles. Stopping at another intersection, then pulling away, the engine died. Both TC & abs lights were flashing simultaneously. There was no starter function. I pushed the bike to a shady, insect infested, safe? space.
Who ya gonna call? I knew that. But at least look about for something obvious. I was certain the problem was 'modern electrics', of which I am totally lost' . The factory 5 pcs tool set had a combination screw driver. I was recalling the number of times I've read or heard of shut-downs for no apparent reason. I took the right side cover panel off. It's either utter genius or dumb luck. The negative corner of the battery (on an angle), pokes outside the top right frame rail. A 10mm/Phillips head machine screw clamps the neg. cable to the post. ~5 minutes later the engine is running. All seems right. More dumb luck.
Being some what paranoid I'm thinking: If this happens again I'll add a knife switch to the Neg. cable. A fix in a minute!
Has this happened to others? Shouldn't there be a warning and described fix, in red, on the 1st page of the owners manual? R3~
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I’m qurious, was batt connection loose ? Or did ya disconnect & reconnect to reset (possibley) the system ?
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Mechanic Savant,
All connections were tight.
Except for a long term abs problem. At about 800 miles I had Jim Hamlin add his in-house developed Brembo combination 4 piston caliper, radial MC & remote res. I believe it dates back to 2010-12? The frt. caliper on the Euro Fast Endurance bikes and the current 'racers' look to be sharing same. BTW: An absolutely wonderful upgrade. abs? Electric or hydraulic? It 'cured' itself(?) over the next week or two.
I'm concerned the drive line may not be lubed correctly. Doubt I should wait for a tire change. R3~
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As a suggestion, check to see if one of the ABS or TCS wires was chafed or a connector yanked during the brake work. Might be possible that there's a heat or vibration short or opening in there causing the the computer to freak out. If that doesn't reveal anything start riding with a hammer and give the bike a good whack if it happens again. If nothing else it may make you feel better.
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I’ve read your post and I have absolutely no idea what you are saying that you actually did to remedy your situation.
Also, what’s a knife switch going to do..? :popcorn:
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Huzo, It could have been worded clearer, but I think he disconnected the battery ground, resetting the ECU and clearing whatever error was making it puke, then reconnected the battery.
A knife switch, would simplify that whole procedure.
If I understand correctly.
fwiw
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Its possible for the battery connections to be tight but not making contact,
Scrape the terminal posts to expose bright metal then slather them with Vaseline. The Vaseline protects the metal against Oxygen so Lead Oxide is unable to form.
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Probably just fiddling with the neg terminal did the trick. Sometimes that screw is just not tight enough. Cleaning & vaselining the terminal & lugs might be enough. FWIW my early 1TB (no ABS) has turned itself off on perhaps 3 occasions (in 113,000lms), not in full flight, but when coming slowly up to a stop sign (braking?). Died, no lights. So you do the usual - operate the side stand a few times, flick the kill switch a few times, turn the ignition off & back on - and - lights! It starts. On another 3 or 4 occasions, it was at the petrol bowser after filling the tank. No lights. Similar procedure gets it working. In this latter case, I suspect the fault is closer to the ignition switch. I can sometimes duplicate the symptoms by turning the ignition hard to the right. I should get around to checking that out. Perhaps when next changing the fork oil when access is easy, should I remember. The 2TB has not had these problems.
I would check the grease on the drive shaft splines early. Peace of mind can not be overrated.
Does the swingarm on the III have a plugged hole on the bottom of it, under the spines (lowest part)? Just asking, thought I remember seeing such in a photo.
Mal
Ed: what Roy says.
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Huzo, It could have been worded clearer, but I think he disconnected the battery ground, resetting the ECU and clearing whatever error was making it puke, then reconnected the battery.
A knife switch, would simplify that whole procedure.
If I understand correctly.
fwiw
Ok, makes sense.
Thanks.
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I’ve read your post and I have absolutely no idea what you are saying that you actually did to remedy your situation.
Also, what’s a knife switch going to do..? :popcorn:
Now you know how I feel most of the time .
Dusty
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It was a test. Cruel, I know. But being at a total loss regarding all forms of electrical function I had to know how lucky I was.
Thank you all for responding.
80CX100, Huso have the answer. Anyone wish to bet on the odds of it happening again - To others? Good fortune, R3~