Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: SmithSwede on June 19, 2020, 10:05:01 PM
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2013 V7 Stone with 103,000 miles. I will soon be replacing my clutch for the second time—it is slipping when I try to go over 75 mph. Possibly there is a slight leak of engine oil in the bell housing. not sure yet.
I have new clutch disc. I have a a used clutch housing from a bike with 8,000 miles, plus all the O-rings and seals.
I want to do this job right, but one and done. No more slipping. Don’t want to tear down to the clutch again for a while.
Should I get the flywheel (ring gear) resurfaced? To eliminate possible glazing or hard spots? Ensure it is dead flat?
Is this something any decent machine shop can do? Or is it a special job because motorcycle or because Guzzi? Do I need to specify a certain machine or technique?
I’m assuming I should not attempt to do this at home with hand tools. Or can I get away with careful sanding by hand using a block.
I would simply buy a new flywheel/ring gear but they are like $600.
Thoughts and tips greatly appreciated.
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Most likely Blanchard grinding would give the best result, cost effective unknown compared to new.
You could probably wrap a good straight flat file with a low number grit wet&dry sand paper and draw file the surface, across the face, move around 45 degree's and do the same until back to where you started if the face is in general good condition.
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As long as it's flat, a scotch brite disc should be fine.
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Mine has been gear oil from leaking clutch push rod seals. I polished the leopard spots from the flywheel & sprung clutch with 120 wet 'n dry & brake cleaner. Works well. 100,000km on the V7C & 9,000km on the V7 Special since such treatment. I've a mate with a Cali Classic who recently replaced his clutch, he had them skimmed.
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The fellow who is grinding the brake disks with his Blanchard should have no problem resurfacing your clutch plate.
https://truedisk.net/
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As long as it's flat, a scotch brite disc should be fine.
Havent been into a guzzi clutch yet, but many auto clutches, and this is what I always did unless there were signs of pits, or cracks.
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If it is flat, a ScotchBrite Rolock disk in an air grinder will clean it up.
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Flatness can be checked with a metal straightedge and feeler gauges. If you have cupping or low spots grinding will be your best option. The auto machine shop I use is very reasonable and has quick turnarounds. If you are unsure how to check it, any shop that can grind it can tell tell you the condition yours is in. Seems like a disc with 8K on it should be much like new after cleanup.
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There must be limits to how much you can take off?
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Grinding will take the least material off. The grinder will easily remove the metal that has turned blue and hardened without any undue drama. Turning a flywheel on a lathe you need at least carbide tooling and usually have to get under those hard spots. That takes more metal off and then there is the surface finish which is usually much rougher than grinding. Usually you can resurface more than once on most flywheels. In a pinch I turn them on my lathe. But really, grinding is so much better I haven' done one on the lathe in decades.
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^ +1 , had it done to my LeMans 2 ( after 150k kilometers) and it was as new again , grinding is good ! Peter